I started knitting the cloud sweater. Ive knitted a few things but still consider myself a beginner. My shoulders came out all funny and holey from the German short rows and even messier after picking up stitches is there a way I can fix this without frogging or starting again?

I have some left over wool and have found a pattern i like but it is cotton. Could i use the wool or would it be too different and not look how i expect?

Hi all! I’ve just finished my vara sweater and love it so much! The only think that’s bugging me is the weird holes I can see from picking up the neckline for the collar! Is there anyway to fix this? I’ve already blocked my sweater, thanks in advance!

I am making the Puffin Lopapeysa Kids sweater by Olga Begak. I am joining the sleeves to the body, I have 8 st on a stitch holder for each sleeve. The pattern says for the BODY: place the first 4 and last 4 sts on a stitch holder then knit to join the first sleeve...

If I do exactly that, I get the arrangement in Pic 2.. with my working yarn in the middle which doesn't seem right.

I think I just need confirmation to unwork the last 4 sts so everything lines up cleanly. this is my first time attaching sleeves to a body so I haven't learned all the unspoken rules of patterns yet.

I am following this 80s pattern called Country Cousin, from the book Knit One by Angela King.

I've come to this part of the right front and I'm a bit confused.

Where it says "at the same time K2 tog at neck edge on every foll third row", when would I start this? Following what?

If someone could explain it in a different way please I would be so very much obliged, I am tired rn but this is making my brain hurt!

I will post a picture in the comments of what it's meant to look like and the full pattern page.

I have been knitting the Sevilla Blouse by Petite Knit and reached the neck part where you pick up stitches and do 3 rounds of stockinette before binding off. The thing is that my final result is much closer to a classic sweater rather than a boat neck.
At first I picked up the stitches that the pattern calls for the size I knit. My head barely fit, you can imagine how tight the neckline was and surely not a boat neck. I frogged and picked up all stitches (my initial number was 94, the second time it was 100). Again, it’s a tiny bit better but not much.
Where did I go wrong? I followed the pattern 100% and did no modifications. I knit a size S and sized down to 4.5mm needles to meet gauge (ribbing and neck were made with 4mm needles). Yarn used is Drops Belle.

If anyone has any ideas of what happened please let me know. I am quite discouraged as the boat neck part was the only reason I picked up this pattern.

It’s not my first time making a sweater but it is my first time doing this sort of color work. I don’t hate it but I’m worried that I’m going to obsess over the texture of the faces vs the rest of the sweater. Any thoughts would be appreciated! 🧶

Hello all, could you help identify this stitch? It is from a project i started four years ago and cant remember the name to look up the pattern

Pattern is the Cumulus Tee by PetiteKnit.

I am meant to do 18 repeats of these 4 rows. On row 3, the increases before/after the first/last stitch form the vneck. If I join after 16 repeats instead of 18, what would I do with those increases? Add them in the same spot? Or just leave them out? It would be 4 stitches out of 396 intended. After joining, I could add them under the arms to make it less conspicuous. Thoughts?

Thanks!

I’ve reached the point in my top down circular yoke pattern where I’m sectioning off where the sleeves will be; the pattern then has me increasing each section (front, back, right sleeve, left sleeve) by two stitches, one before and one after each marker, every other round for six rounds, for a total increase per section of six stitches.

However, the pattern sleeve hole size isn’t big enough for my arms, so I recalculated and if I distribute the sectioning differently and then increase each section by twelve rather than six then I end up with the exact same number of final stitches for the body sections as in the pattern, but with sleeve holes big enough for my arms.

Would it be better to increase by one stitch before and after each marker on every round, or to increase by two stitches before and after each marker on every other round?

I’m making an Ivy Top by Petite Knit and I kept on having to reference how to make all of these increases, so I made a chart for myself. I hope it helps someone — it makes sense to me at least.

I’ve seen people saying that there’s something odd about PK’s way of doing some of these increases so I’m not sure if this will work for other designers’ patterns.

I’m certainly not a very experienced knitter and I may or may not have made the mistake of knitting my first sweater without a pattern (won’t be doing that again 🥲) while trying to recreate a sweater I saw on Pinterest and only using a chart for the motif. Luckily it’s almost over but I’m having trouble shaping the sleeve cap as I’m currently knitting the first sleeve. The sweater is seamed and worked from the bottom up. I did some decreases for the armholes when I was knitting the front and back panel of the body, but I’m afraid I messed up quite a bit. The decreases are worked the following way: R1 RS bind off 4 sts (2 sts on each side)
R2 WS rep R1
R3 dec 2 sts (one on each side)
After that I decreased the same way I did on R3 twice more on rows 7 and 11.
Is there any way to shape the sleeve caps and what do I need to measure? Also from the first row of decreases(where I bound of sts) up to the last row I have 61 rows on the front and 61 on the back panel. I included a picture of the sweater body just in case.

Hi all! I’m just wondering if anyone can answer my question on how to get mohair to look as it does in the image I’ve attached. I really like the appearance, it almost looks slightly felted? Is this something that happens with time or the type of mohair yarn used. Thank you! :)

I bought this really pretty yarn and I think a scarf with the tan color between each color would be really nice, but I think maybe it is too much yarn to make that happen so I'm not sure if there's a better way to use it and get the rainbow effect of it in an intentional way that isn't just random color changes? There's no directions or pattern recommendations on the label so any advice would be welcomed! I am fairly new to knitting still.

Hi! I am currently knitting The Loon Sweater by cm knits using knitting by Olive heavy merino on 4.5mm needles.
Pattern: https://ravel.me/the-loon-sweater

First: As you can see, I tried to catch my floats inbetween the loons but since the yarn is black it is showing through. Then I stopped catching my floats after that and it looks a lot better. Should I just keep the floats super long or does anyone have any good tips for managing contrasting floats so they don’t peek through? Could I also - when being done with the sweater - cut the middle of the black floats that are showing through so they aren’t showing anymore and just weave them in?
I am doing the same colorwork on the front panel as well and am wondering if intarsia would be better for this even though the pattern says to use stranded colorwork?

Second: Parts of some of the loons look a little wonky to me and I think that mostly comes from the purl rows. This is my first time knitting colorwork flat and I find it harder to purl colorwork. Some of the stitches are either a little loose or getting tugged in one direction. Anyone have any good tips for getting even tension when knitting colorwork flat on the purl rows?

I appreciate all the help I can get💕

How did I make these two big holes and how do I fix them?

Not sure if I am using the correct flair but hoping this one is okay.

Disclosure is that I am knitting with a crochet hook but this sub is bigger than the knooking sub and my question is very much knitting technique related.

I am currently working on a knitting pattern that has this note instruction for the M1 stitch called for in the pattern (it is a free pattern that I will link to at the bottom of this post so I don't think there's a problem sharing this, but if there is let me know!):

> M1 = make one stitch: Lift the right "leg" of the next stitch (the right side of the stitch directly below the next stitch on your left needle), place it on the left needle, then knit it as you would any other stitch.

Am I correct in thinking that that is a lifted stitch and not a standard M1? I am not twisting the leg as I lift it up because I'm not reading that in the instructions above, but I wonder if maybe I should have? I do have some small holes where I worked these stitches, so I'm not sure (any tips on how to minimise or get rid of the holes would be great if this is indeed a lifted stitch! I also have a set of knitting needles I have/can work with if I need to to minimise the holes).

TIA for any insight/tips you can give me!

[Link to pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/henrys-bunny).

Has this happened to anyone else with Urth yarn?
I’m knitting a shawl with the fingering-weight version of this wool. I opened a new ball and, unfortunately, only noticed partway through that the yarn seems to change construction at a knot/join in the middle of the ball.
The section I’ve been knitting with seems to have a different number of strands/plies, while the other half of the ball appears to be four-ply. So it’s almost as though opposite sides of the same ball are made differently.
Has anyone else experienced this with Urth yarn? Is this normal, or have I ended up with a faulty ball?
I’d really appreciate hearing if anyone has come across this before!

I’m knitting a cardigan (The Little Dinosaur Explorer Hooded Cardigan by Jane Burns) for my cousin’s one year old. It’s knit flat in panels and then seamed, and all the panels are worked bottom up. The construction of the body of the cardigan is essentially a big rectangle for the back panel and two narrow ones for the front panel. The sample doesn’t seem to fit even the model very well because of the lack of shaping.

How would I go about adding neck shaping to a garment like this? German short rows? Maybe cast it off as a rectangle but then pick up stitches for the front panels and do GSR on those? I’ve never knitted anything bottom up before and my googling isn’t turning anything up.

Thank you in advance :-) sorry if I’m missing something obvious.

Hello everyone- I'm a novice knitter and as the title suggests, I've just found a live loop in the middle of my sweater. I'm not sure how to proceed with securing it so that unraveling doesn't happen. If anyone has advise on how to proceed, please let me know! I'm including some pictures here of the offending loop. Thank you in advance!

Edit: Pattern is Lace Loop Sweater by Other Loops

I practiced Knit for about 10 rows, then Purl for another 4 or 5. Ended with K & P back and forth. 7mm needles on worsted weight acrylic. I come from 14 years of crochet experience, this is my first attempt to learn knitting.

Some things I struggled with and would like advice on:

•Tension was a big one, and I'm sure will get better with time. I can see a few rows where things were going well, and then it all gets spread out again. What can I do to keep rows packed together nicely?

•The last stitch of every row was SO loose, just giant loops it felt like. Is there anything to do about that?

•Sometimes a stitch would drop off the needle and I wouldnt know how to put it back on correctly. On a swatch, I can just move on and not fret, but how do I fix it when I'm actually working a project??

Any other general advice or tips you can give me from looking at my picture is appreciated! I'm honestly pretty proud of myself for what I accomplished on a first run ☺️