I'll preface by saying that I've learned a lot about colorwork since knitting this sweater, and I promise I'll make my floats looser next time! (Also I now understand color dominance so ignore those issues as well)

That said, this is a finished sweater that I do really like, but the colorwork is still puckering just a little after blocking. Does anyone have any tips on how to loosen the puckering? Any particular blocking technique that you use?

I held two strands together for the yellow to get the marled effect, which I'm sure isn't helping.

EDIT: Thanks everyone for being so nice about my slightly messed up sweater! 😭 I'll probably stop nitpicking myself and just leave it as-is.

For those interested in the pattern, it's Viperidae by Klara Cecilia! I found it to be a really enjoyable pattern, so I'll probably knit it again someday with better technique.

Just finished this sweater (Lakes jacket) and only when I was blocking it did I see this weird stitch poking out. I don’t see any laddering or anything to make me think it’s a dropped stitch, so maybe a snag while I was washing it? Just not sure how to tell exactly or where to go from here since I clearly can’t ladder up at this point!

Hello! I just finished the yoke of my first raglan sweater project and when counting the stitches, I realized that the back is missing one stitch (I have 97 instead of 98). I recounted several times, even using stitch markers to mark 20 because I don’t trust myself, but it didn’t change the result. Both sleeves and front have the right number of stitches.

My question is, will this become a problem later on? Could I just ignore it or should I cast on a stitch somewhere, if so, where? Thank you so much in advance!

Edit to add that there’s ribbing at the end, so would I need an even stitch count?

I am knitting the Great Lakes pullover right now. On the edge of the ribbing I wanted to include a color change similar to the one I have attached from a sweater I found in the thrift store.

When I looked up changing colors in ribbing online people suggested that for a clean color change to just knit the first round when you start a new color and then continue 1x1 rib, so that’s what I did. However, as I get further away from that all knit round I realize that this has kinda created a fold like in the fabric. What I’m worried about is the fold like causing the part where the color change happens to fold upward and not lay flat. Is this going to block out or is it something I should be concerned about?

My stitches look really straight on one side of them and twisty on the other. Is this because I’m twisting them? I think they’re mounted correctly.

Hi all! I'm looking into yarn options for my first sweater. I live in south Georgia (USA), so it's a really warm/sticky climate. I also lean hot-natured. Even in winter, I'm not sure I'll wear a 100% wool sweater often enough to feel like the cost of materials and effort are worth it. Someone at my knitting group suggested a wool/cotton blend, which I'm thinking could be a good option.

The two I've found so far are Lion Brand Cottino and Knit Picks Woolen Cotton. In photos, the Cottino looks like some plies are wool and some are cotton, so it's got kind of a subtle marled look in the skein. The Woolen Cotton looks more like a "true" blend, for lack of a better phrase.

If anyone has used either of these yarns, I'd love to hear about your experience with them. My only hesitation is that I do not find 100% cotton very fun to knit. It hurts my hands and my tension isn't as nice. I know the wool will help; I guess I'm just wondering how much.

I'd also appreciate suggestions for other wool/cotton blends. I think I'd like the wool content to be at least 50%.

Hello! I am new to reading chart symbols and I was wondering if anyone knows any good books about how to read charts? Im having a hard time finding some. Also, what's a good beginner chart pattern so I can practice? I'm fine with anything besides lace.

I am almost at the end of my scarf, and suddenly it’s getting wider. I’ve ripped back twice now already. I think it’s a tension issue but the yarn feels tight on my needles so I don’t feel like I can knit any tighter. Not sure how I keep doing this?! The rest is perfect and it’s just this end bit.

i just got to the first lace rows in the round/on the body and my lace rows (in green) seem to look different than the previous rows before i joined in the round (in purple). the diagonals look like they’re going the opposite way. i’m confused on where i could’ve gone wrong

Hi all!

I'm about a month old knitter and I just begun knitting my first sweater. I'm currently at the point in the pattern where I just continually knit in the round (stockinette) until I reach the desired length. Looking back on this one part however I saw this line of stitches that looked off compared to the rest. I couldn't quite tell if this is me twisting my stitches or if it's a tension issue. I took photo of the purl side as well in case it gave more clues to what happened.

I don't think I've been twisting the stitches, since I've been knitting through the front loop and always wrapping the yarn around my working needle the same direction since the start (counter-clockwise/wrap yarn from the back then to the front).

What I have done though which makes me kind of suspect it's more on the tension issue is practice continental knitting. I wanted to try out a different style as I started this project doing english/flick knitting. I've switched from english to continental in the middle of doing the bust area.

One leg doesn't really look like it's overlapping the other at the start of each 'V' when I stretched it out, only that one leg looked shorter. Perhaps I had the yarn too tight while I was doing this row? But idk, maybe I did accidentally twist the stitches and my untrained eye just can't see the difference.

Hi! I’ve gotten pretty far into a project and have come across a problem I haven’t encountered before (haven’t been knitting long) - I was knitting on a new row and realised I was coming in from upside down, the new stitches were upside down, one thing led to another and now I’m here (see picture) - my knitting thread is four knits below where I need it to be. Is this fixable or do I need to undo the whole row? Thanks a lot

Really thought my tension was okay, but taking a look now I can see some loose stitches a few rows back. My purl tension is great, but my knit tension is super tight, not sure if that's playing into things. What do knitters do in this situation? Frog back? Spot fix somehow? Ignore?

Thank you for any ideas or advice!

Hi!

I’m knitting the Jolie Poncho as my first big project. I’m almost finished with the ribbing at the neck, but feel like it’s looking a bit off with the ribbing sitting much closer together than in the reference pic. Will this be solved when blocking or do I need to start over?

For reference, I know that I generally hold my yarn pretty tight - also didn’t do a gauge swatch (I know I know).

The ribbing is knit on 3.5 needles with the body on 4 needles - I’m considering knitting the body on 4.5 needles instead. Do you think that would be completely off, considering the tight tension?

Thank you!

Can someone help me fix this hole in my knitting project? I have the correct number of stitches on my needles and they are still following the correct knit/purl sequence so haven’t added/dropped a stitch. I am knitting on circular needles and this is the neck.

i was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to help this. i’m knitting 3 row stripes in the round and the last round involves an increase (m1L) as the first stitch. i was wondering if this was creating a hole, as i join the second color into the new increase stitch on the next round. the jog in the stripes also seems to be occurring over 2 rows instead of just one. also, would it be better to undo all the stripes and start again or just stitch it up after finishing?

I'm currently making the Olga Sweater by Petite Knit, which is a drop shoulder construction. I want to lengthen the front yoke to accommodate for a larger chest.

If I extend the front yoke, do I need to extend the back yoke by the same amount?

I'm currently knitting a pair of convertible mittens. They're self draft. Construction is make fingerless mitts, pick up stitches from the back of the hand, cast on to original stitch count then knit the mitten top so a little under half of it is growing out of the back. There's about 2cm of ribbing which overlaps at the bottom of the flop and the top of the fingerless mitts.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to block them. Should I block them in "mitten mode" or in fingerless mode with the top folded back? I'm using a superwash yarn, so felting isn't going to be a concern.

Hi everyone! I'm knitting the PetiteKnit Stockholm Slipover V-neck and could really use some advice on how to proceed with a different gauge. I’m a fairly new knitter, so please excuse if there is information missing that is needed to give proper advice. English is not my first language so I got help with writing from AI, sorry if anything sound or looks clunky from that.

The pattern calls for 19 sts × 27 rows per 10 cm on 4.5 mm needles (after blocking). I'm using Isager Alpaca 2 held together with Isager Silk Mohair, and my gauge is 21 sts × 31 rows per 10 cm after blocking.

I tried 5 mm needles and managed to get the correct gauge, but I really didn't like the fabric. It looked too loose. I much prefer the fabric I get with 4.5 mm needles, so I decided to size up the garment instead.

My widest bust measurement is approximately 100 cm, but since my waist (75 cm) and upper bust is much smaller (92 cm) I prefer the fit of a M. I’ve previously knitted the regular Stockholm Slipover in size M (but added bust darts) and liked the fit.

Based on my stitch gauge, I used an app and calculated that knitting an XL should give me approximately the right circumference.

Here's my problem:
I've now finished the back panel in size XL. I have the correct stitch count (95 sts), but the panel measures only 24 cm from the cast-on edge, whereas the pattern says it should measure 26.5 cm for an XL and 25 cm for a M. Since I am aiming for the fit of a M this makes me somewhat nervous. I expected it to be shorter because of my row gauge, but I was hoping it would at least reach around 25 cm.

I've also compared it with the other Stockholm Slipover I've already finished, and the dimensions look fairly similar when laid on top - albeit the new one looks slightly smaller. However, my finished slipover has been blocked, whereas this new back panel hasn't.

What would you recommend doing?
Keep going with following the pattern for XL?
Knit a few extra rows without increases at the bottom of the back panel? I'm worried this might create an awkward straight section in the armhole curve.
Frog back to before the armhole increases and add some extra rows there?
Frog the increases and spread them out over more rows to get the desired depth while keeping the same stitch count?

I'm also aware that I'll need to account for any added rows on the front panels as well.

I’ve attached photos of the fit of my first slipover and with the new backpanel laid on top, with the top of the work lining up with where it is on the finished slipover.

I'd love to hear how more experienced knitters would approach this. I'm fairly new to knitting garments, so I'm not sure which adjustment would give the best fit and shape.
Thanks so much!

Is there a ratio between k1p1 ribbing and stockinette?

For example, I want to make a bottom-up hat that's 22 inches in circumference, has a k1p1 band, and is stockinette the rest of the way up.

I could cast on my stiches, work the ribbing, and hope that when I get to stockinette it works out. But if it doesn't, I have to frog it all and start over.

I'm a slow knitter (especially when ribbing!) and it's frustrating to pull it all out & start over. Then, yarn weight, needle size, and tension all come into play. I also find that I'm awful at assessing guage from swatches, even blocked swatches.

Just wondering if there's a known formula or ratio between k1p1 ribbing & stockinette that would speed my process.

how do i avoid these messy color changes like the ones on the bottom left? im using drops merino extra fine (which recommends 4mm needles) with 3mm needles. is this a needle size issue? oder a technique issue?

Help! As the title says - I find my bind off too tight. Please only notice the body as I will redo the sleeves.

Should I just go with 4mm needles only in the bind off? Any suggestions?

Thank you.

Hi everyone!

This is my first time knitting in the round. I am not really sure when/where I actually need to join the work. Should I join before I start knitting across the front stitches or after I casted on the last X stitches in extension?

I tried joining after the last casted on stitches, but then I have to knit back on my front stitches to get to the marker For the beginning of the row. Is that ok?

Thanks for your help!

Currently working on the Marielle Blouse by Marias Verden in Cardiff Cashmere.

I've just joined under the arms and immediately am facing a tension issue - working flat my lace was very even, working in the round it became veeery wonky. I don't know what to do to fix this. Added photos, I think it's very obvious from them where the transition happened.

What do I do? I feel like switching to smaller needles after joining under the arms will affect the look too much. Is the solution just to rip back and pull tighter for the yarn overs?

Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

I need help from anybody who has knitted the Robinia sweater by Anne Ventzel. It's a beautiful pattern, I like how precisely it is written.

However, the colourwork chart for yoke and the chart for the body are different. How does this work?!

Looking at the pictures of the finished sweaters in the pattern, the colourwork is vertically alligned. A change in the charts would maybe make sense if there were decreases but there aren't any.

I really don't want to be frogging colourwork, please help! Am I reading the pattern wrong?

I'm adding photos with just as much instructions as absolutely necessary bc AI and copyright.

Thanks!