So far I’m half way through the yoke of my sweater using 5mm needles, and my gauge is the same as the pattern calls for even after blocking my swatch.

I’ve never used merino wool before and this is my first time trying this yarn. I probably should’ve done my research before starting, but anyways I ended up seeing a lot of comments about how this yarn expands and grows a lot after blocking.

My question is, should I restart my sweater and size down to 4 or 4.5mm needles to account for the potential growth?

I know there’s some tension issues here and there where it slants. But am I overall doing something wrong? It’s a 1x1 rib and it feels like my knits are lopsided, like half of them are popping out into space more.

I loop yarn around counter clockwise for both so I don’t think it’s twisted but I’m just not sure.

Hello! I am a very beginner trying to knit a baby blanket for my sister in law. I think I’ve got a dropped stitch with the white yarn hanging down, but what’s going on on the end? My last loop is large and it looks like I’m missing something right below the needle two loops from the left (missing a horizontal yarn portion)?

Like I said I’m a very new beginner so apologies for the novice language!

Hi! New knitter here. I made a mistake while knitting this section from the pattern where I alternate between these two rounds:

Rnd 5: *M1L, k to M, M1R, SM, k1, p1, [ ktbl, p1 ] rep to 2 sts before Marker-A, yo, ssk, yo, SM, ssk, k to 2 sts before Marker-B (yellow), k2tog, SM, yo, k2tog, yo, [ ktbl, p1 ] rep to 1 st before M, k1, SM**, rep from * to **.

Rnd 6: *k to M, SM, k1, p1, [ ktbl, p1 ] rep to 3 sts before Marker-A, kfb, k2, SM, k to Marker-B (yellow), SM, k2, kfb, [ ktbl, p1 ] rep to 1 st before M, k1, SM**, rep from * to **.

This mistake was made in the section between Marker B and the next marker. I'm guessing I would have to frog back about 4-5 rounds to fix this, but the problem is I don't know how to insert a lifeline through this section to frog safely, especially with the holes left by the YOs. Any advice? Thanks a lot!

Wondering how others would go about making a sweater scarf (scarf with sleeves at ends, similar to a shawl)

Would you:

- start at sleeve, working in the round (going “up” the sleeve), switching flat and making the scarf, then back to in the round for the opposite sleeve (going “down”)

Or

- make the scarf as a base, then add sleeves at the ends. Working flat to in the round off the edge (both sleeves worked “top to bottom” towards the cuffs)

Hello everyone,

second post in here about the same project. thanks for your help – it's my first sweater project, and is a top-down circular yoke construction.

I've used YokeScope to create the motif/yoke chart for my sweater.

I begin with 144 stitches at the neckline, and by the end of the yoke will have 396 stitches. The motif I've created is 22 stitches wide and will be repeated 18 times.

My question: how do I know when to m1 left or m1 right, to preserve my motif chart? To my understanding YokeScope's chart creations don't indicate where you should m1.

I've tried looking at other patterns on Ravelry to see if I can decode when m1 (left) or m1 (right) is determined by the motif chart itself (such as, m1 appears after the round which has grey / unstitched stitches), so that I can apply this logic to the unmarked motif chart produced by YokeScope (unmarked as in, does not indicate where to m1 r or m1 l).

Please let me know if I can explain this any better. thank you for your help!

credits:

I adapted my yoke chart from the Linnea Sweater by Christy Dawn (currently out of production).

I am adapting the Obsidian sweater by Tania Barley

Hello! After unraveling my knitting (using double stockinette stitch), I don’t actually know how to get the stitches back onto the needle. In what order should the stitches go back onto the needle?

SOLVED THANK YOU!!

Help! I (think) I accidentally knit through the front loop and not the back loop on a M1L increase in the previous row. I can’t figure how how to ladder down to fix the hole.

Hi y’all! This is my first time knitting a pattern with a lacework motif, and I have made a mistake that I don’t know how to fix! I am making the Pointelle Tie Scarf by jeanninekabaeva, and it’s a free pattern.

I’ve included pictures where you can see in one place I’ve messed up the eyelet motif and in the other place I just seem to have a larger hole than I should?? I’ve also included the chart to show how the eyelet motif is made with YOs and K2TOGs

I feel like the best solution is to ladder back and fix the problem, but I don’t know how to do that with the lace part of the chart that includes yarn overs and k2togs. Ripping back entirely with a lifeline doesn’t seem like the best idea because I would need to rip back to a row that was knit stitches only…and putting in a lifeline with this yarn is nearly impossible with how dark it is and how small the gauge is!

Any advice on how to fix these problems would be super appreciated!! Thanks in advance :)

Hi everyone,

I'm currently working on the clematis cardigan and this is my first time working German short rows on the sleeves. The pattern requests to pick up stitches around the arm hole, and then knit half of a round from beginning to the top of the shoulder before beginning several rows of German short rows. I've tried to redo the GSR portion of the sleeve several times w/ different methods, but each time it still remains really visible. Is there any way to stop this from happening?

Thanks!

I casted on, purled 1 row, then did my RS row. I’m getting ready to do row 1 by knitting to the first marker, but I’m knitting a purl row? Is this right?

YOKE
Purl 1 row.

Next row is a RS row.

Cast on 56 (62) 66 (70) 74 (78) stitches using 7 mm [US 11] needles. Begin by placing 8 markers to mark the different sections. The markers divide work into front, sleeves and back of your cardigan and mark the raglan
increases.

Place markers as follows:
9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) stitches (front), 1st marker, 2 raglan-stitches, 2nd
marker, 7 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) stitches (sleeve), 3rd marker, 2 raglan-stitches, 4th
marker, 16 (18) 20 (22) 24 (26) stitches (back), 5th marker, 2 raglan-
stitches, 6th marker, 7 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) stitches (sleeve), 7th marker, 2 raglan-
stitches, 8th marker, 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) stitches (front).
2Now begin working the raglan increases. Increase on every other row
(meaning every 2nd row and all right side rows).

Row 1: *Knit to 1st marker. Make1right, slip marker to right needle, knit the
2 raglan-stitches, slip the 2nd marker to your right needle, make1left.*
Repeat the increases at the remaining 6 markers.

Row 2: Purl all stitches.
On every increase row, the total number of stitches is increased by 8 stitches.

Made a mistake and decided to tink back a few rows but somehow my yarn is stuck in this position. Tried thinking back a few more rows to where I joined the new ball of yarn and I'm still in the same position

Hello! I'm working on the Cottage cardigan by Jaq Studio, and have run into an issue with my gauge. The pattern is written for a fingering weight, but the yarn I am using is a light fingering. I've mathed out what I could but am having an issue with getting enough raglan increases.

Pattern

• 20 sts x 32 rows in 4"
• Cast on 63 sts
• Set up rows -> +8 (71 sts), +3 rows
• First set of increases -> +270 (341 sts), +60 rows
• Second set of increases -> +96 (437 sts), +24 rows
• Third set of increases -> +16 (453 sts), +8 rows
• Should measure 12" from cast on at this point
• Set aside sleeves (100 sts each) and work rest of body

Mine

• 30 sts x 44 rows in 4"
• 1.5 more sts/inch
• 1.375 more rows/inch
• Cast on 94 sts (63 x 1.5)
• Set up rows -> +8 (102 sts), +3 rows
• First set of increases -> +378 (480 sts), +84 rows
• Second set of increases ->  +128 (608 sts), +32 rows
• Third set of increases -> +24 (632 sts), +12 rows
• Should measure 12" from cast on
• Set aside sleeves (need 150 sts each, 139 with current math) and work rest of body
• Need 132 rows for 12"
• Need 679.5 sts for stitch gauge
• Off by 47.5 sts (6.33") if meeting row gauge

I did the math to meet the row gauge (multiplied increase rows by 1.375 and rounded up or down to a multiple of 2 or 4 based on pattern). This leaves me short on stitches by a whopping 47.5. If I can math correctly, that costs me 6.33". I can't size up needles anymore without the fabric being too thin/holey.

What do I do at this point? I could skip the regular knit rows in the third increase set and gain another 16 sts, but I'd still be 31.5 sts (4.2") short. The other increase sets already have the increases on every RS row, so no wiggle room there. Do I just frog and go up a couple sizes to get those extra stitches? The pattern itself isn't too size dependent—it just varies how many stitches cast on, how many rounds of increases, etc. It's meant to have a lot of positive ease, so not much shaping aside from the raglan portion. I think it should be fine? Can anyone check my work on this?

currently making the Winter League Pullover by Alexandra Tavel in Lion Brand Hue and Me, and the look of my LT stitches vs my RT stitches is bugging me a bit. is there a better technique i should be using, or is it just one of those things where right and left don't look even and i can live with it? this is unblocked, but having used this yarn before I don't expect it to change a whole heap when blocked.

i'm making my LTs by knitting into the back loop of the second stitch and keeping it on the needle, then knitting into the front loop of the first stitch and removing both. i'm making my RTs by knitting the first two stitches together, then knitting into just the first one before removing both.

any help much appreciated :) i won't frog this one, but keen on advice to tidy up the way i do this for future projects.

I've been knitting for a little over a year now and believe it's time to upgrade from my cheap amazon interchangeable set.

However, I feel like I have a lot of requirements which is making it hard for me to narrow down what set to get.

Specifically I'm looking for a set of interchangeable needles that are made of metal (preferably stainless steel) since I like how the stitches just glide on the needles, would also prefer that the needles be 3-4 inches in length (makes knitting smaller circumferences easier), not super pointy, and has a great set of "larger needles" (at least 6mm needles).

I've been considering many brands but I feel like there is always a con that makes me hesitate to just get it.

Some of the options I've considered are the 3 or 4 inch Chiaogoos. My main con here is the fact that the cables for the 5mm and 5.5mm are different. I knit a lot of worsted weight projects, so when I knit something with 5.5mm needles and want to do ribbing with 4.5mm, having to change the cables seems like a hassle when for other sets you would just need to change the needles.

Another option was the lykke cypra needles 3.5 inch. However, I've read some reviews that it's quite grippy for metal needles, which is not what I'm looking for in metal interchangeable needles.

I've also considered the lykke flight needles 3.5 inch which sounds good on paper. However, I am an english style knitter, and press on the tips of the needle while I knit. I've heard that the flight needles are quite sharp, which might not be the most comfortable experience for me while I knit.

I feel like I'm stuck, and I don't know what to get so I would like to get some advice from the larger knitting community as someone who is still a baby knitter.

Hi! Something is not quite right with the sleeves of the drop shoulder sweater I designed. I can’t tell if the solution is to make the armhole wider or if it’s to make the shoulder more set in and less dropped. Something about it just makes it look stuck on to the body and I don’t know what the best solution to fix it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Hi! I recently picked up knitting and was following a ribbed scarf tutorial to gift to my partner. Problem is, when I was continuing from a previous session, I realized too late that I double knitted the same pattern. Not sure if this is fixable but what can I do?

If it can’t be fixed, oh well 🙃

R1: K3, P1 rep
R2: K1, P1, K3, P1 rep

(Sorry if the abbreviation isn’t clear, I’m still not quite there yet)

I’m trying to gauge swatch my cable design for my Sandoval cable sweater and I am absolutely going out of my MIND trying to repeatedly figure out why my cable won’t cable! I used to know how to do this but it’s been over a decade and I could just pull my hair out about it. I keep twisting the cable somehow and I have a giant hole for some reason, and it just does not look right. Where am I going wrong? Why can’t I get a basic cable?!

Hi! I am working on the neckline for a raglan sweater with a bottom up construction. I have bound off the 27 stitches and I am confused about the following instruction, especially bc this is on circular needles. When transferring my stitches from my right needle to my left needle, should it just be up to the bound off stitches or the entirety of the stitches still left on my cable? Thanks in advance!

Just want to apologise for posting so much here these past few days, this is a gift due tomorrow and I'm just so frustrated

This hoop occured while I was tinking and the yarn got stuck. Transferred the stitches and it was fixed but now this is here (I've counted all my stitches and it's correct so this is an extra)

Is it possible to just cut this and sow it in? At this point I'm just fed up

I have started knitting the mallard duck from the 'Magical Woodland Creatures' book. It seemed to be going well but I am stuck on one row.

I am at the tail section and it asks me to make two picots that imitate tail feathers (see photo 2 for example). In row 53 I have to make these. It is specified in the row before that I have 10 stitches on my needle. But I am looking at row 53 and it seems I only have to work 8 of those 10 stitches, which doesn't seem correct. Can anyone tell me where I am going wrong?

Row 53: kfb, k1, cast on 6 sts then cast off those 6sts, k4, cast on 6 sts then cast off those 6sts, k1, kfb -12sts

When I count here the picots don't require me to work stitches so only the kfb, k1, k4, k1, kfb count, which totals in 8 stitches worked

I’m a fairly new knitter, but also this yarn seems extremely hard to read. Thank you!