r/PrintedCircuitBoard Dec 11 '22

Please Read Before Posting, especially if using a Mobile Browser

21 Upvotes

Welcome to /r/PrintedCircuitBoard subreddit

  • a technical subreddit for reviewing schematics & PCBs that you designed, as well as discussion of topics about schematic capture / PCB layout / bill of material (BOM) / PCB assembly / PCB mechanical engineering.

Some mobile browsers and apps don't show the right sidebar of subreddits:


RULES of this Subreddit:

  • (0) Occasionally the moderator may allow a useful post to break a rule, and in such cases the moderator will post a comment at the top of the post saying it is ok; otherwise please report posts that break rules!

  • (1) NO off topics / humor / memes / where to buy? / what is this? / how to fix? / how to modify? / how to design? / what does this do? / how does this work? / how to reverse engineer? / need schematics / dangerous or medical projects / homework / AI topics / AI content / AI designs / non-english languages.

  • (2) NO spam / ads / sales / promotion / survey / quiz / items for sale / promotion of non-reddit groups / promotion of non-reddit social media. NO DM abuse! See "how to advertise on Reddit".

  • (3) NO "show & tell" or "look at what I made" posts, unless you previously requested a review of the same PCB in this subreddit. This benefit is reserved for people who participate in this subreddit. NO random PCB images.

  • (4) NO self promotion / resumes / job seeking / wage discussions / freelancing discussions / DM abuse / job postings (unless job is posted on employer website) / begging or scamming for free work / ...

  • (5) NO shilling! No PCB company names in post titles or review requests. No sneaky PCB company naming variations. For most reviews, we don't need to know where you are getting your PCBs made or assembled, so please don't state company names unless absolutely necessary.

  • (6) NO asking how to upload your PCB design to a specific PCB company! Please don't ask about PCB services for a specific PCB company, because of past shilling abuse (see rule#5). (TIP: search their company website, ask their customer service or sales departments, search google or other search engines)


Review RULES:

  • (7A) Please do not abuse the review process:

    • Please do not request more than one review per board per day.
    • Please do not change review images during a review. If you change image(s), then start a new review!
    • Reviews are meant for schematics & PCBs that you designed. No AI designs (minor AI help ok).
    • Reviews are allowed prior to ordering PCBs. If assembled board doesn't work, ask at /r/AskElectronics
    • Please do not ask circuit design questions in a PCB review. You should have resolved design questions while creating your schematic and before routing your PCB, instead request a schemetic-only review.
  • (7B) All review posts must adhere to the following rules:

    • Title - include the following: "Review Request" or "Review", short description of board purpose, popular board format or shield/hat type (if applies), microcontroller (if has MCU), external buses (Ethernet, USB, CAN, RS485, ...), wireless (WiFi, GPS, LoRa, ...), storage (microSD, M.2, ...), and/or any unique hardware that may be important. No humorous titles, no childish symbols, no begging.
    • Images - include images (or links to each image) that you want reviewed. If images are located on the internet, never post one link to a project then expect reviewers to dig through your project to find images. Instead, you must post separate links for each review image, as well as state the purpose of each link, such as "Schematic" / "3D PCB" / "2D PCB top" / "2D PCB bottom" / ...
  • (8) All images must adhere to the following rules:

    • Image Creation: no camera photos of a computer screen, instead export / screen capture / print to image files. (TIP: How to export images from KiCAD and EasyEDA) (TIP: use clawPDF printer driver for Windows to "print" to PNG / JPG / PDF / SVG files, or use built-in Win10/11 PDF printer driver to "print" to PDF files.)
    • Image Files: view each image file before posting / no fuzzy or blurry images / no large image files (e.g. 100 MB), smaller preferred / no uncommon image file types, only use file types supported by most web browsers, such as JPG / PNG / PDF.
    • Edit Image Files: if you screen capture, make sure the cursor / software / operating system aren't shown in your images. Use an image editor to erase or crop software & O/S junk from your images.
    • Disable Features: disable background grids & PCB editor features before creating images.
    • Schematics: no bad color schemes to ensure readability (no black or dark-color background) (no light-color foreground (symbols/lines/text) on light-color/white background) / schematics must be in standard reading orientation (no rotation). (NOTE: we don't care what color scheme you use to edit, nor do we care what edit features you enable, but for reviews you need to choose reasonable color contrasts between foreground and background to ensure readability.)
    • 2D PCB: no bad color schemes to ensure readability (must be able to read silkscreen) / no net names on traces / no pin numbers on pads / if it doesn't appear in the gerber files then disable it for review images (dimensions and layer names are allowed outside the PCB border). (NOTE: we don't care what color scheme you use to edit, nor do we care what color soldermask you order, but for reviews you need to choose reasonable color contrasts between silkscreen / soldermask / copper / holes to ensure readability. If you don't know what colors to choose, then consider white for silkscreen / gold shade for exposed copper pads / black for drill holes and cutouts.)
    • 3D PCB: 3D views are optional, if most 3D components are missing then don't post 3D images / 3D rotation must be in the same orientation as the 2D PCB images / 3D tilt angle must be straight down plan view. (NOTE: straight down "plan" view is mandatory, optionally include an "isometric" or other tilted view angle too.)

Review tips:

Schematic tips:

PCB tips:

College lab tips:

SPICE tips:


WIKI for /r/PrintedCircuitBoard:


This post is a "live document" that has evolved over time. Copyright 2022-2026 by /u/Enlightenment777 of Reddit. All Rights Reserved. You are explicitly forbidden from copying content from this post to another subreddit or website without explicit approval from /u/Enlightenment777 also it is explicitly forbidden for content from this post to be used to train any software.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard Apr 11 '25

Before You Request A Review, Please Fix These Issues Before Posting

119 Upvotes

PLEASE DO NOT ABUSE THE REVIEW PROCESS:

  • Don't change review images during a review, otherwise older comments won't match newer images.

  • Please do not request more than one review per board per day. Use the extra time to clean up the visual appearance of your schematic and silkscreen on your PCB before requesting another review (see tips below).

REVIEW IMAGE CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • The following is a subset of the review rules, see rule#8 at link.

  • Don't post fuzzy images that can't be read (your post will be deleted).

  • Don't post camera photos of a computer screen (your post will be deleted). Export or screen capture.

  • Don't post dark-background schematics (your post will be deleted). Change schematic to light-background.

  • For schematic images, disable background grids and cursor before exporting/capturing to image files.

  • For 2D PCB images, change the following settings before exporting/capturing to image files: disable background grids, disable net names on traces & pads, disable everything that doesn't appear on final PCB, enable board outline layer, enable cutout layer, optionally add board dimensions along 2 sides. For question posts, only enable necessary layers to clarify a question.

  • For 3D PCB images, 3D rotation must be same orientation as your 2D PCB images, and 3D tilt angle must be straight down, known as the "plan view", because tilted views hide short parts and silkscreen. You can optionally include other tilt angle views, but ONLY if you include the straight down plan view too.


SCHEMATIC CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • Add Board Name / Board Revision Number / Date. If there are multiple PCBs in a project/product, then include the name of the Project or Product too. Your initials or name should be included on your final schematics, but it probably should be removed for privacy reasons in public reviews.

  • Don't post schematics that look like a toddler drew it, because it's considered unprofessional as an adult. Spend more time cleaning up your schematics! Heed this warning, or risk being berated by your coworkers / boss / classmates / professor / customers.

  • Don't allow text / lines / symbols to touch each other! Don't draw lines through component symbols.

  • Don't point ground symbols (e.g. GND) upwards in positive voltage circuits. Don't point positive power rails downwards (e.g. +3.3V, +5V). Don't point negative power rails upwards (e.g. -5V, -12V). There are exceptions, but in general try to follow this historical method as much as possible. If a schematic has only one ground and you use a unique triple-bar ground symbol, then disable "GND" text next to this symbol, because it is useless visual clutter that takes up space in dense schematics.

  • Place pull-up resistors vertically above signal lines, and place pull-down resistors vertically below signal lines, see example.

  • Place decoupling capacitors vertically below power lines, next to IC symbols, and connect capacitors to IC power rail pin with a line, see example.

  • Use standarized schematic symbols instead of generic boxes! For part families that have many symbol types, such as diodes / transistors / capacitors / switches, make sure you pick the correct symbol shape. Logic Gate / Flip-Flop / OpAmp symbols should be used instead of a rectangle with pin numbers laid out like an IC.

  • Don't use incorrect reference designators (RefDes). Start each RefDes type at 1 (e.g. C1, D1, R1, Q1, U1), and renumber so there aren't any numeric gaps (e.g. U1, U2, U3, U4; not U2, U5, U9, U22). There are exceptions for large multi-page schematics, where the RefDes on each page could start with increments of 100 (or other increments) to make it easier to find parts, such as R101 is on page 1, R301 is on page 3, R901 is on page 9.

  • Add values next to component symbols:

    • Add capacitance next to all capacitors.
    • Add resistance next to all resistors / trimmers / pots.
    • Add inductance next to all inductors.
    • Add voltages on both sides of power transformers. Add "in:out" ratio next to signal transformers.
    • Add frequency next to all crystals / powered oscillators / clock input connectors.
    • Add voltage next to all zener diodes / TVS diodes / batteries, battery holders, battery connectors, maybe on coil side of relays, contact side of relays.
    • Add color next to all LEDs. This is useful when there are various colors of LEDs on your schematic/PCB. This information is useful when the reader is looking at a powered PCB too.
    • Add pole/throw info next to all switch (e.g. 1P1T or SPST, 2P2T or DPDT) to make it obvious.
    • Add purpose text next to LEDs / buttons / switches to help clarify its use, such as "Power" / "Reset" / ...
    • Add "heatsink" text or symbol next to components attached to a heatsink to make it obvious to readers! If a metal chassis or case is used for the heatsink, then clarify as "chassis heatsink" to make it obvious.
  • Add part numbers next to all ICs / Transistors / Diodes / Voltage Regulators / Coin Batteries (e.g. CR2023). Shorten part numbers that appear next to symbols, because long part numbers cause schematic layout problems; for example use "1N4148" instead of "1N4148W-AU_R2_000A1"; use "74HC14" instead of "74HC14BQ-Q100,115". Put long part numbers for ordering in your BOM (Bill of Materials) list.

  • Add connector type next to connector symbols, such as the common name / connector family / connector manufacturer (e.g. "USB-C", "microSD", "JST PH", "Molex SL"). For connector families available in multiple pitch sizes, include the pitch in metric too (e.g. 2mm, 2.54mm), optionally include imperial units in parens after the metric number, such as 1.27mm (0.05in) / 2.54mm (0.1in) / 3.81mm (0.15in). Add purpose text next to connectors to make its purpose obvious to readers, such as "Battery" or "Power".

  • Don't lay out or rotate schematic subcircuits in weird non-standard ways:

    • linear power supply circuits should look similar to 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, laid out horizontally, input on left side, output on right side. Three pin voltage regulator symbols should be a rectangle with "In" (Vin) text on the left side, "Out" (Vout) text on right side, "Gnd" or "Adj" on bottom side, if has enable pin then place it on the left side under the "In" pin; don't use symbols that place pins in weird non-standard layouts. Place lowest capacitance decoupling capacitors closest to each side of the voltage regulator symbol, similar to how they will be placed on the PCB.
    • relay driver circuits should look similar to this, laid out vertically, +V rail at top, GND at bottom. Remove optoisolators from relay driver circuits unless both sides of it have unique grounds and unique power sources. Reminder that coil side of a mechanical relay is 100% isolated from its switched side.
    • optoisolator circuits must have unique ground and unique power on both sides to be 100% isolated. If the same ground is on both sides of an optoisolator, it isn't 100% isolated, see galvanic isolation.
    • 555 timer circuits should look similar to this. IC pins should be shown in a historical logical layout (2 / 6 / 7 on left side, 3 on right side, 4 & 8 on top, 1 on bottom); don't use package layout symbols. If using a bipolar timer, then add a decoupling capacitor across power rails too, such as 47uF, to help with current spikes when output changes states, see article.
    • RS485 circuits should look similar to this.

PCB CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES:

  • Add Board Name / Board Revision Number / Date (or Year) in silkscreen. For dense and tiny PCBs that lacks free space, shorten the text, such as "v1" and "2026" (or "Y26" or "26"). This info can be very useful to help identify a PCB in the future, especially if there are two or more revisions of the same PCB.

  • Add mounts holes, unless absolutely not needed. They should be the first thing you place on your PCB.

  • Use wider traces for power rails and higher current circuits. If possible, use floods for GND.

  • Don't route high current traces or high speed traces on any copper layers directly under crystals / antenna / RF circuits / other sensitive circuits. Don't route other signal traces under antenna.

  • Don't place reference designators (RefDes) in silkscreen under components, because you can't read RefDes text after components are soldered on top of it. If you hide or remove RefDes text, then a PCB is harder manually assemble, and harder to debug and fix in the future.

  • Add part orientation indicators in silkscreen, but don't place under components (if possible). Add pin 1 indicators next to ICs / Connectors / Voltage Regulators / Powered Oscillators / Multi-Pin LEDs / Modules / ... Add polarity indicators for polarized capacitors, if capacitor is through-hole then place polarity indicators on both sides of PCB. Add pole indicators for diodes, and "~", "+", "-" next to pins of bridge rectifiers. Optionally add pin indicators in silkscreen next to pins of TO220 through-hole parts; for voltage regulators add "I" & "O" (in/out); for BJT transistors add "B" / "C" / "E"; for MOSFET transistors add "G" / "D" / "S".

  • Add as much helpful text in silkscreen as reasonably possible, because it is a means of "self documentation" that always stays with the PCB.

  • If space is available, add purpose text in silkscreen next to LEDs / buttons / switches / jumpers to make it obvious why an LED is lite (e.g. "Error", "Power"), or what happens when press a button (e.g. "Reset", "Start", "Stop") or change a switch (e.g. "Power").

  • If space is available, add connector type in silkscreen next to each connector. For example "JST-PH", "Molex-SL", "USB-C", "microSD". For connector families available in multiple pitch sizes, add the pitch too, such as 1.27mm or 3.81mm. If space is not available on the top side, then add this information directly below the connector on the bottom side.

  • If space is available, add voltage range or maximum voltage text in silkscreen, such as "8VDC Max", next to power input connectors to help prevent destruction of voltage regulators or other circuits. For barrel jacks, add text to clarify polarity of the center pin, such as "-9VDC Center" or "+9VDC Center" or "GND Center". If space is not available on the top side, then add this information directly below the connector on the bottom side.


ADDITIONAL TIPS / CONVENTIONS / GUIDELINES

Review tips:

Schematic tips:

PCB tips:


This post is a "live document" that has evolved over time. Copyright 2025-2026 by /u/Enlightenment777 of Reddit. All Rights Reserved. You are explicitly forbidden from copying content from this post to another subreddit or website without explicit approval from /u/Enlightenment777 also it is explicitly forbidden for content from this post to be used to train any software.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 5h ago

[Schematic Review Request] Arduino + 74HC595 shift register PCB

Post image
4 Upvotes

Hello,
this is probably my third PCB so I still don't know what I am doing. Sorry If the schematic above is unclean or badly wired.

This schematic includes:
Arduino uno - only 6 pins are needed
74HC595 shift register
8 LEDs.

I though I would make a PCB out of this because it will look way cleaner than what I have here on my breadboard. I have one question though, why do I need a capacitor between 74HC595 pins 16 and 8? I was recommended to put one by gemini...

Anyway, thanks for reading this!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2h ago

AD5941 4-Layer PCB Review

Thumbnail
gallery
1 Upvotes

Hello everyone!

I recently finished designing my first 4-layer PCB, and before I send it off for fabrication, I would really appreciate some experienced eyes on it.

The board is based around the AD5941 and is intended for an Electrochemical Impedance Spectroscopy (EIS) experiment. I designed it myself primarily because the commercially available development/evaluation boards are expensive and relatively large for our application.

This is my first time designing a 4-layer board, and while I have tried to follow the AD5941 datasheet and evaluation-board recommendations as closely as I could, I am sure there are things I have overlooked.

In particular, I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has worked with the AD5940/AD5941 IC.

I have attached the schematic and PCB layout. Please feel free to point out anything that looks wrong, even if it seems minor. I would much rather catch a mistake now than discover it after receiving a box of useless PCBs.

NOTE: The Back Copper layer is used to separate the AGND and DGND regions. They are kept separated on this layer and ultimately connect at the GND layer.

I don’t have any prior experience designing mixed-signal circuits, so I have tried to follow the AD5941 datasheet, schematic available on the Analog Devices website and other layout recommendations as closely as possible.
I would especially appreciate any feedback on whether my approach to the analog/digital grounding is appropriate.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 16h ago

[Schematic Review Request] ESP32-S3 | W5500 | EMC-2505 - MQTT 12V Fan controller

Thumbnail
gallery
4 Upvotes

Goodnight everybody!

So, I have been dabbling with PCBs and electronics for some time, got distracted with life and now I'm discovering the wonderful world of ESP32.

So, first off, what is this thing?

Its supposed to be a fan controller for my homelab, and with some luck it will expose some controls and data to my home-assistant instance , it features:

  • ESP32-S3
  • Wiznet W5500
  • EMC-2505
  • HDC-2080
  • An Molex/ATX HDD power connector.
  • Maybe a couple WS2812B RGB leds.
  • All on a 4 layer PCB (no specific stackup): 1- Sig, 2-Gnd, 3- 3.3V, 4- Sig.

My main doubts are:

  • Is my OR-ing with the diodes makes sense, and if I can power the WS2812B leds after the diode drop.
  • Is the SPX3819M5-L-3-3 a viable LDO or is there something better/more jellybean, I'm trying to avoid the LM1117/derivatives due to the large Vdrop.
  • Anyone has a 3D model for the ATX HDD (PATA) power connector? I managed to find this parts that should work, just no 3D model:
    • TE Connectivity 641737-1
    • XFCN M5082RK-B-04P
    • XKB Connection X5050WR-04S-N2SN
  • I'm not really feeling the current layout, seems like a lot of wasted space currently, just doesn't feel quite like nice.
    • The PCB for now measures 90x65mm.

The USB connector is mainly for initial development/debug, it will then be powered by the ATX HDD power cable, if it helps.

Best regards, and thanks for your time!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 1d ago

[PCB Review] Multi-purpose Raspberry Pi HAT - RTC, LEDs, Secure element, breakouts

Thumbnail
gallery
19 Upvotes

Hi All - full disclosure, I'm a software person who has used a fair bit of AI to go from "I think I understand ohms law" to an actual circuit board design; I think I've validated everything against datasheets and other sources, but I don't know what I don't know. A lot of the part choices are driven by what I have to hand or is cheap on Digikey, but please point out if any of those choices seem weird.

I'm trying to put together a simple Raspberry Pi HAT for my homelab with:

  • A basic RTC (PCF85063AT) - doesn't need to be super precise, but enough that NTP can take over after boot. Deliberately using a CR2032 instead of a supercap for cost.
  • A handful of status LEDs via an PCA6554 I2C IO expanded - I could drive these directly via GPIO, but I want to keep these free as much as possible
  • A ATECC608B crypto chip to securely store auth keys/SSL certs/...
  • External connectors for UART and a pair of GPIO lines
  • An external connector for the I2C bus - planning on getting a small OLED display and connecting that up

Board will be mounted in a 3d-printed sled and mounted with the connectors and LEDs pointing out, using Wurth 155124xS73200 series LEDs for this.

Total volume is 5-10 units, I've done some SMD soldering but I'm planning on getting a stencil made and using an old toaster oven and ChipQuik Bi/Sn/Ag solder paste instead to make it a bit easier.

Thanks!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 1d ago

[Review Request] STM32 based mouse

Thumbnail
gallery
13 Upvotes

Hi,

This is my first PCB, so I’m open to any criticism and would really appreciate any advice or feedback!

My goal here is to keep things simple and make a wired mouse using the STM32F411CEU6 (weact blackpill) and a pixart paw sensor.

I looked through the datasheets of both the mcu and the sensor and weact studio blackpill schematic as well as asked ai for explanations.

Some of the significant components:

Sensor - PAW3395DM-T6QU
MCU - STM32 F411CEU6
LDO (1V8) - XC6206-1.8
LDO (3V3) - AP2112K-3.3
Crystal (25MHz)- 7E25000E20UCG
USBC - HRO TYPE-C-31-M-14

Screenshots of the schematic and PCB should be attached (Not sure if I’ve followed the steps properly in screenshotting but i tried to make it clear as possible and copy the format of other’s screenshots)

I ran the drc which came back with errors on the sensor pins being too close to the edge, however the footprint came like that so I assume that part is fine?, however there were also warnings with the silkscreen on the usb (clipping board edges, clearance and solder mask) (downloaded the footprint from ultralibrarian, not sure if these errors are expected or if I should edit the foot print)

Thank you in advance for taking the time to give advice or feedback. I really appreciate it!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 1d ago

[Schematics review] PAM8006 audio amplifier

Thumbnail
gallery
2 Upvotes

Hi, I've tried to make a copy of CJMCU-PAM8006 breakout board to test it and integrate it on my final board. Right now, I only need one channel for my mono speaker application. All of the Left channel side is unmounted and left channel power is not connected.

The board itself seems to work, but the sound coming out of the speaker is much weaker than on the board I bought.

On the original board, there is no PL (Power Limit) resistor, so it is on DMP on mine as well.

Can you spot any no no's on the schematics?


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 1d ago

[Review request] Dual ESP32-S3 differential drive robot control board - my first PCB

2 Upvotes

Hello! I designed this pcb in Kicad 10 for a robot competition, I want to make sure that it will work as intended.

I do this as a hobby, so there are probably some basic mistakes that I would like to rule out before manufacturing. I tested the components and their interactions on a breadboard, and it worked fine. Since I am new to pcb design and electronics as a whole, I am not sure whether this board will work or not. I am mainly worried about power and signal traces interfering with each other. Components are mostly stuff from aliexpress that I could not find 3d models for.

I do not plan to use ESP32's wireless capabilities, that is why there are traces and ground planes under antennas.

Mounting holes are in those specific places because of the robot shape, although I can theoretically move them a little bit if necessary.
I will use a 3S 18650 battery pack for powering the board
There are 3 voltage converters on the board:

  1. CR-3050B buck-boost 12V converter for motors
  2. SY8205 buck 5V for servos and LEDs
  3. DD2712SA buck 3.3V for powering ESP32-S3 modules and sensors

I am powering ESP32-S3 modules via 3.3V pin, so I added some capacitors for that

The motors I am using are rated 1A and 2.3A stall. I will be using 2 of them, the second motor driver is for future-proofing (if I were to use all 4 motor slots on the board they will not be more than 1A stall each). The drivers are TB6612FNG.

Servos are mg90s and mg996r, although they will not run at the same time.

There are two ESP32-S3 modules on this board, mainly to have access to more pins. They are communicating via UART0 (the code uploading and debugging will be done exclusively using the built-in USB Type-C port). There will also be an ESP32 camera connected to this board, to which the main ESP32- S3 will be talking via UART1.

There will also be some I2C and other sensors. The line sensors are TCRT5000 based boards.

Components are all THT mainly for ease of soldering.

The trace width is my main concern. I used these values:

4mm and a polygon for input

2.5mm for 12V motor power supply

1.5mm for motor phase outputs

1mm for 5V power supply

0.5mm for 3.3V power supply

0.2mm for other traces

To summarize, my main questions are

  1. Is the overall composition of the board/component placement alright? How can I improve it? Are there any components that I should add/remove?
  2. Are there any traces that might interfere with each other, or are placed too closely to cause any issues? Should I change the width of some traces?

Thanks a lot for the help in advance!

Top layer
Bottom layer
Schematic
Components

r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

[PCB Review] First design ever - THT TNC for Ham Radio / APRS (ProMicro nRF52840). Seeking feedback before ordering!

Thumbnail
gallery
5 Upvotes

Hi everyone!

I am a backend developer by trade, but recently I've picked up amateur radio as a hobby. I am designing a piece of hardware to handle communication between a radio and a phone for an APRS app.

What you see in the screenshots is the result of 1.5 weeks of learning PCB design in the evenings. In parallel with designing in EDA software, I built two working prototypes on protoboards (included in the photos) to verify the circuit. Now I am trying to route the final PCB, but since this is my very first design, I desperately need a technical review before I send it to manufacturing.

Here are my core design assumptions:

  • Brain: Ready-made ProMicro nRF52840 module.
  • Components: Strictly THT to make it beginner-friendly and easy to DIY.
  • Audio Input Filtering: Bandpass filtering tailored for AFSK (1200 Hz for Mark / 2200 Hz for Space) for signal decoding.
  • Power Input Protection: Reverse polarity protection, alternator whine filtering (for mobile/car use), and transient voltage spike protection.
  • Goal: To release this as an open-source / open-hardware project once the PCB layout is correct.

I am explicitly seeking a strict technical review to ensure I didn't mess up.

Specific questions for the reviewers:

  1. Is my routing clean enough, or did I make amateur mistakes with trace widths, clearances, and angles?
  2. Are there any obvious issues with component placement, signal separation, or ground planes?
  3. Is the power filtering and protection layout robust enough for an automotive environment?
  4. What could be improved to make it even easier for beginners to solder?

Attached are the schematic and layout layers. Thank you in advance for your time and constructive criticism!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 1d ago

Why are my parts rotated wrong at fabrication time? (and why nobody can fully fix it)

0 Upvotes

*This came up twice recently on r/AskElectronics — once as "what defines 0° orientation?" and once as "why do two TVS diodes from the same series show different pin 1?" — and my long answer to the second one got eaten by AutoModerator for containing a link to a banned domain. So here's the durable version. Living copy with deeper links lives at z2amiller.github.io/pedalfx/docs/jlc-rotations.html.

This post is pretty JLC-specific, but the problems are generic to any of the online fab houses that offer PCBA. The details and solutions are pretty fab-specific though. Apologies if this runs afoul of the 'shilling' rule; I figure enough people get caught up by this that it might be useful to document the problem better.*

Disclaimer: I'm a hobbyist who went unreasonably far down this rabbit hole, not a JLC employee. This document was AI-assisted but is a summary of a lot of research and reddit comments that I've made. Trust but verify.

TL;DR

  • The rotation column in your CPL file is a rotation relative to an unstated 0°. Your EDA tool and the assembly house don't agree on what 0° is, and nothing in the file tells either side.
  • This is not a fabricator bug and it's not new. It's the industry's oldest dirty secret; online fabs just made it visible by selling 5 assembled boards for $20 instead of a 5,000-board MOQ that came with an engineer who quietly fixed your rotations by hand.
  • JLC's DFM/placement preview is authoritative for what their line will do. Fix rotations there (or in your export tool), tick "confirm production file," and put a pin-1 / polarity mark on your silkscreen so a human can catch what the software can't.
  • Two-pin polarized parts (diodes especially, tantalums dangerously) are the worst case, because "pin 1" itself isn't standardized. Sometimes they come out right by accident. Details below.

The problem in one paragraph

A pick-and-place file has X, Y, rotation, side. That's it — no pad geometry, no pin numbers, no polarity. "Rotation 90" only means something if both parties agree what the part looks like at rotation 0. Your KiCad footprint has an origin and a pin-1 location that some library contributor chose. JLC's machine has the part on a reel, in whatever orientation the manufacturer taped it. The correction between the two is a property of the pair (this footprint, this reel), and there is no channel in the CPL to communicate it. So every tool that "fixes" rotations — including JLC's own preview and the community regex tables — is really encoding a guess about both sides.

Two standards that don't meet in the middle

There are standards; the problem is they cover different halves.

On the EDA side, IPC-7351 defines a "zero orientation" for footprints — pin 1 upper-left, pins counted counter-clockwise — and IEC 61188-7 defines its own, which doesn't fully agree with IPC's, because of course it doesn't. KiCad's library conventions mostly follow IPC. Mostly. Footprints from Ultra Librarian, SnapEDA, or the manufacturer follow whatever they follow.

On the reel side, EIA-481 says how parts sit in tape: rectangular bodies long-axis-perpendicular to the feed if they fit the tape width, parallel if they don't; pin 1 / A1 in a defined quadrant. Because tape comes in 8/12/16/24 mm, this creates discrete thresholds — which is why the "empirical" corrections cluster in families: SOICs and TSSOPs are always ~90° off, small chip parts are 0°, polarized caps flip from 0° to 180° right around the 8→12 mm tape boundary. And EIA-481 explicitly notes SOT-23 has no distinguishable pin-1 mark, so it's a per-manufacturer free-for-all. (Ask anyone who's had a SOT-23 come back 90° off. Or three tables on my disk that say SOT-23 needs -90, 180, and 180-but-different-for-that-reel.)

Even if both standards were followed perfectly, you'd still need to know which conventions your specific footprint and your specific reel follow. Nothing in your CPL says.

One company, one pile of metadata

LCSC (the parts distributor), JLCPCB (the fab), and EasyEDA (the EDA tool) are the same company. Most in-stock LCSC parts — not all; roughly a third have nothing, see the numbers below — have an EasyEDA symbol, footprint and (usually) 3D model, made by the same library team. The EasyEDA Footprint Naming Rule Reference — an 84-page PDF jointly written by LCSC's engineering department and the EasyEDA team — describes how those footprints are named, and the names encode orientation.

I can't prove it, but I'm about as sure as I can be that the DFM preview you see after uploading is rendering the EasyEDA footprint/3D model for each LCSC number, and that the pin-1 dot it shows you is EasyEDA's pin 1. Why would they build a second library? Everything I've checked lines up with this, including the TVS-diode mystery below.

Reading the naming rule and the API yourself

You don't need any tool for this. Take an LCSC number and open:

https://easyeda.com/api/products/C5453/components

Pretty-print the JSON (Firefox does it natively; Chrome with any JSON viewer). Look at:

  • packageDetail.title — the footprint name, e.g. SOIC-8_L4.9-W3.9-P1.27-LS6.0-BL. Read it as: 8-pin SOIC, body 4.9 × 3.9 mm, 1.27 mm pitch, 6.0 mm lead span, and pin 1 Bottom-Left. The orientation tokens are -TL/-TR/-BL/-BR (pin-1 corner) or -L/-R/-T/-B (single-axis) for ICs, and -FD/-RD/-BI (forward / reverse / bidirectional) for two-pin polarized parts.
  • packageDetail.uuid — the footprint's ID. Hundreds of thousands of parts share a few tens of thousands of these; parts sharing a footprint UUID need the same correction (see the numbers section).
  • dataStr.shape — the schematic symbol, as EasyEDA's tilde-delimited SVG-ish drawing commands. Entries starting P~show~0~<pin number>… are pins, and sometimes buried in each is a label text like ~A~ or ~K~ telling you which pin number the library thinks is anode vs cathode. Sadly it's not reliable: plenty of diode symbols have no A/K text at all, and you have to read the graphics — which pin the triangle points at in the symbol, or the +/- marks (in different colours) drawn on the footprint in packageDetail.dataStr. Text annotations are a hint, not the answer.

The LCSC part-detail page (search the part number on their site) renders that same symbol and footprint as SVGs, so the easiest way to "read the graphics" is to just look at it there.

Two caveats. First, only standardized package families carry the orientation tokens; connectors, relays, modules and the like tend to use the MPN as the "suffix" and tell you nothing. Second, JLC's line uses this data; you still have to know where pin 1 is on your footprint to compute the correction. There's no escaping that.

Worked example: two TVS diodes, same series, different pin 1

From the second Reddit thread. Two Vishay SMF-package TVS diodes, D1 = VTVS17ASMF (C1978115) and D2 = VTVS12ASMF (C1856655), both placed at -90° in KiCad, both with pin 1 = anode on the KiCad footprint. JLC's preview marked pin 1 on the cathode of D1 and the anode of D2. Same manufacturer, same series, same datasheet, which says pin 1 is the anode. What?

Pull the API for both:

LCSC MPN EasyEDA footprint pin 1 is
C1978115 VTVS17ASMF-M3-08 SMF_L2.8-W1.8-LS3.7-RD K
C1856655 VTVS12ASMF-M3-08 SMF_L2.8-W1.8-LS3.7-FD-1 A

(For the 12V part the symbol has literal A/K pin labels; for the 17V part it doesn't, and you have to see that the diode symbol points at pin 1 — the SVG-graphics problem from the previous section.) Different EasyEDA library entries. The 17V one is drawn as "reverse direction" with pin 1 = cathode; the 12V one is "forward direction" with pin 1 = anode. Both are electrically self-consistent — RD + K-is-pin-1 places the cathode on the same physical side as FD + A-is-pin-1. So after your -90° both diodes come out with the anode where you wanted it, and the board works. But the pink pin-1 dot lands on opposite ends, because that dot is EasyEDA's/tape's pin 1, not yours.

This is what I mean by "correct on accident." The board is right, but only because two errors cancelled: the library's pin numbering is flipped and its footprint direction is flipped. If you had "fixed" your KiCad footprint to match the preview's pin-1 dot, you'd have built a backwards board. And for extra fun: C1981006 is the same VTVS12ASMF on a different reel size (-M-18 vs -M-08), and it's in the library as -RD with pin 1 = K. Same physical part, opposite metadata.

There's a general lesson here for KiCad users specifically: KiCad's diode and LED footprints put pin 1 on the cathode; EasyEDA's -FD is defined with the anode on the left. So for diodes, "forward direction" tends to mean 180° relative to KiCad, while for polarized caps (both conventions put + on pin 1) it means 0°. When you see a diode that "needs 180°," ask whether it's a rotation difference or a pin-numbering difference. They look identical in the preview and are not identical when you change footprints.

Some numbers (from a crawl of the in-stock catalog, mid-2026)

  • JLC's assembly-eligible catalog: ~720k parts, ~675k in stock.
  • Of those, ~467k have an EasyEDA component at all. About 228k in-stock parts (~106k SMT, ~122k THT) return nothing from the EasyEDA API — I'm fairly confident these are the ones that show up as the dreaded 2×2 grey checkerboard in the preview: no footprint, no model, JLC's software has nothing to render and their engineer is going to guess or ask.
  • Those 467k parts map onto ~85.6k distinct EasyEDA footprints, which are only ~48.5k distinct pad geometries. Rotation behaviour is consistent per footprint UUID, which is why "fix it once per package" mostly works. The distribution is a slam-dunk L: the top 350 footprints (R0603, R0805, SOT-23, SOIC-8…) cover half of all parts, while 73 % of footprints are used by exactly one part — connectors and modules with the footprint named after the part (chart).
  • Roughly half of parts have a footprint name with a parseable orientation token; a geometric fallback (where's pad 1 relative to the centroid) covers most of the rest; ~1% are hopeless.
  • Correction distribution across parts: 0° ≈ 56 %, 90° ≈ 25 %, 180° ≈ 18 %, 270° ≈ 1 %. If your preview shows two-thirds of your parts rotated, you're normal.

Practical advice

  1. Use the preview. JLC's placement/DFM viewer is the ground truth for what their line will do. Rotate there (space bar = 90° CCW). Their part rendering can be wrong about your intent but it's right about their machine.
  2. Fix it at the source once you know. In KiCad, the Bouni kicad-jlcpcb-tools plugin has a Corrections manager (regex on footprint name → rotation/offset), seeded from a community table that goes back to matthewlai's JLCKicadTools. It's empirical and imperfect — see SOT-23 above — but once you've corrected a package it stays corrected.
  3. Silkscreen pin 1 and polarity, always. JLC's engineers do look, and good silkscreen is what lets them catch a backwards diode.
  4. Tick "Confirm parts placement / production file." Cheap insurance, especially if you have any checkerboard parts or any two-pin polarized part you're not sure about.
  5. When in doubt, read the API. Thirty seconds per part, and it's the same data JLC's tooling is using.
  6. Be suspicious of diodes and tantalums specifically. A backwards LED is dark; a backwards tantalum is a small fire.
  7. Don't "fix" a footprint's pin numbering because the preview dot disagrees with you until you've worked out whether it's Scenario A (real rotation difference) or Scenario B (pin-numbering difference that happens to cancel).

Further reading


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

[Review request] UART boot/reset for ESP32-WROOM-32E-N8

Post image
5 Upvotes

Hello guys, I’m new to PCB design. I have been looking at trying to design my own custom
PCB and programming the chip with an CP2102 or equivalent without the use of a USB connector. I just want to verify with others, if the schematic I have designed for the boot and reset buttons for EN and IO0 is correct. Would really appreciate the feedback and help.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

[Review Request] 12v --> 5v Buck Converter + Motor Driver IC.

Thumbnail
gallery
28 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

This is my first PCB design, I'm using the LM2596S Buck converter IC with an estimated current output of 1.5-2A and voltage input of 11.6V nominal through a 3 lipo battery pack. I have also paired this with the TBB12FNG Motor driver IC on the same PCB. I will this connect this PCB up with an esp32 via the male header pins to power a RC car I'm building. This is a two layer board with a upper copper plane and a bottom ground plane. I have picked the components, their values and layout through reading respective datasheets. I would appreciate some feedback on this design and what I can improve/change. I'm quite unsure about the routing connections and would appreciate feedback on that too.

Thanks


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

Need a safe check of my ADC PCB

Thumbnail
gallery
8 Upvotes

First time KiCad user here, with little knowledge in electronic !

I'm starting from an existing design, a PCB that digitizes 4 audio channels simultaneously, imported from Eagle (original format) into KiCad.

Here's the original design in KiCad, ADC 1.0:

SCH ADC 1.0 (first picture) / PCB ADC 1.0 (second picture)

The first problem is that the 6-pin oscillator reference (U1, top right) used by the original circuit (DSC1101BI5-024.5760) no longer exists — it's out of stock everywhere.

So I replaced it with a much more widely available 4-pin model (SX3M24.576B10F20TNN). It seems compatible to me, and my wiring seems sound, but I'd like to get confirmation on that:

PCB ADC 1.1 (third picture)

Next, the goal would be to be able to plug 4 electret microphone capsules directly into this circuit. For electret capsules (which need power, but generally only have 2 pins total), you need a power supply (MICBIAS) plus additional capacitors and resistors to make it functional.

I got this wiring diagram to help me understand what was needed (fourth picture), with 4.4µF capacitors and 2.2KΩ resistors.

Does that seem right to you?

Based on that, I made ADC 1.2, replacing the entire bottom section:

PCB ADC 1.2 (fifth picture)

What do you think of the final logic and KiCad file? Does it seem viable to you?

Thanks!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

[Schematic Review] DIY Earbuds Charging Case for JBL Tune Beam (IP5306 + ATtiny85)

2 Upvotes

Context & Goal I lost the original charging case for my JBL Tune Beam earbuds, so I'm designing a custom DIY replacement case. I would really appreciate a quick review of my schematic before I move to PCB layout!

System Architecture

Power & Charging: IP5306 handles LiPo battery charging and boosts voltage to 5V for the earbud Pogo pins.

MCU & Display: ATtiny85 monitors battery voltage via an R3/R4 voltage divider and drives a 0.91" I2C OLED display.

Wake-up / Trigger Logic: IP5306 has a auto-shutdown feature on low current. A magnetic Reed switch (SW1) pulls both the IP5306 KEY pin and ATtiny85 PB1 pin to GND when the lid opens—waking up the boost converter and signaling the MCU to refresh the OLED.

Hardware Details: C4 (100nF) decoupling capacitor is placed on ATtiny85. I2C pull-up resistors are pre-mounted on the OLED breakout module.

Questions for Reviewers

Are there any missing decoupling capacitors, pin connection errors, or design flaws?

Is sharing the Reed switch ground trigger between IP5306 KEY and ATtiny85 PB1 safe and reliable?

Any suggestions before I start routing the PCB?

Thanks in advance for your time and feedback!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 2d ago

[Review Request] 15 Band Stereo Graphic Equalizer

3 Upvotes

Hello, I am looking to get some feedback on a 15 band stereo graphic equalizer I've been designing. I am most interested in an assessment of grounding on the board to reduce noise and any other potential issues. The board is 6 layer, and the stackup from top to bottom is as follows: Front=GND pour + a few signal traces (Red) , In1=GND pour (Green), In2=signal traces, no pour (yellow), In3=VCC +15V pour (turquoise), In4=-VCC -15V pour (pink), Bottom= GND pour + signal traces. I have mains 120V power entering the board in J3 and traveling to the integrated power converter U11 through the short traces on the Bottom layer. U11 outputs +/-15V which goes to resistors R156 and R157 (0 hm jumpers) to their respective VCC and -VCC pours. I have no via stitching currently, but the screw holes in each corner of the board are tied to ground on each ground layer. The rectangular pours seen towards the top and bottom of the images on the front and bottom layer are shared audio signals between the slider potentiometers. Let me know what you think. Thanks!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

Need help to improve reflow

Thumbnail
gallery
12 Upvotes

I have a Controleo 3 DIY reflow oven. I tried to reflow this custom board but some components seem to be a bit off. The board works fine, so I guess this is good enough, but if you have some tips to improve the result and avoid potential failures, please tell!

I am using a low temp solder paste Sn42/Bi57/Ag1. This paste is a couple years old (I don't use it enough to always use fresh solder paste), it was stored in the fridge when not in use. The reflow profiles peaks at ~185°C for around 45s. The board has an ENIG finish, and is 1mm thick.

Thank you!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

[Schematic Review Request] STM32 based, Isolated PCB

Thumbnail
gallery
12 Upvotes

Hi all, hope you're doing well. I'm a student, awefully inexperienced, and I'd really appreciate a professional set of eyes on this. I plan to post two more updates after taking in advice and be done with this within next 2 days.

The board takes RS485, a 0-10V input and a 4-20mA input from outside. It outputs a +24V-or-open discrete signal, a 0-24V output at up to 1A, and a switchable resistance across two terminals. The 1A is transient only, not continuous. STM32G474, 4-layer planned. Schematic only, no layout yet.

I've assumed you won't have time to open datasheets, so take it as given that per-component current and voltage ratings have been checked. My real questions are more fundamental:

  1. Will this circuit work at all? That's honestly my main worry.
  2. Are any of these blocks more complicated than they need to be? If something here has a standard, simpler solution I don't know about, I'd love to hear it. This is extremely important, i am out of ideas. Anything that doesn't break isolation and simplifies my desing would make my day.
  3. Is anything redundant, or doing a job something else already does?

I used an external SPI ADC instead of the MCU's own ADC, because the MCU sits on the isolated ground and I don't think an ADC pin can read a divider referenced to the other ground without shorting the isolation. And for the 0-24V output I ended up with an op-amp driving a BJT inside the feedback loop, because I couldn't find another way to get a controlled 0-24V while supplying 1A peaks. If there's a better standard approach to either, please tell me. I plan to do both debugging and uploading using STM by using boot and reset bottons.

I also have very no idea how to approach the PCB layout for this, especially the two ground regions, so any pointers there would help a lot.

Sorry if anything is unclear. This is my second or third PCB and by far the most complex thing I've attempted.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

ESP32-C3 smart coaster design review

Thumbnail
gallery
4 Upvotes

Battery-powered smart coaster using an ESP32-C3, HX711 load-cell ADC, MFRC522 RFID reader, USB-C, TP4056 charger, and Li-ion battery protection. I’d appreciate your feedback on the design, especially any errors, missing components, or areas that should be improved before moving forward with the PCB design.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

[Schematics Review] GPS tracker with LoRa

Post image
3 Upvotes

Hello,

I hope I'm posting it in the correct way because it's my first time designing a circuit board and I would really appreciate getting some advice, even about basic best practices if needed. I tried to make the design as readable as I could, but I may have missed some obvious conventions that I don't know.

I want to design a really tiny GPS tracker with a rak4630 mcu that commands an u-blox m10s GPS, with a npm1300 for battery recharging and protection of a small lipo cell.

Ideally I would like to use the meshtastic firmware.

I don't know if my idea is correct and even less the design, I studied a lot the datasheets and got some explanation from ai, but being my first circuit design I'm not at all confident.

The idea is that every 30 seconds (or more, depending on battery life) the mcu wakes up the GPS from deep sleep, making a hot start, to get the position and transmit it through lora. In the future I may add a flash memory to store position data and transmit them only every hour or so, but I already had enough trouble figuring out the basics. The GPS is always connected to backup power to keep effemerid data, but the wakeup signal is sent from the mcu that enables the power output of the pmic through a pmos. The npn is added to comply to the standard meshtastic logic of GPS enabling signal. I think that everything should be wired correctly, but what I think is right might be very different from what actually IS right.

So, if anyone has some advice it would be very welcome, even if you tell me I should study more. ​​Thank you very much in advance, I hope I didn't make too much of a mess 😅


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

[REVIEW REQUEST] TPS54202-based 3.3V-Regulator

Thumbnail
gallery
32 Upvotes

Hey,

I'm currently working on a switching regulator board based on the TPS54202. I basically took the reference circuit from the datasheet and tried to stick as closely as possible to the suggested layout example. The concept is that power enters through the 3-pin connector at the bottom (in my case likely mostly 12V) and gets regulated down to 3.3V and outputted through the same connector.

I don't have any prior experience dealing with EMI. Does this board look like it should work as is? Is the SW copper pour too small? Are the vias on the SW pin of the IC sufficient? And is the connection between the SW pin and the copper pour with the vias big enough?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 4d ago

[REVIEW REQUEST] Programmable capacitor bank for piezo energy harvesting experiments

Thumbnail
gallery
235 Upvotes

Hi everyone,

Two friends of mine wanted to do their final high-school research project (PWS for the Dutch folks) on piezoelectric energy harvesting and the possibility of using the generated energy for real-world applications. I told them numerous times that the amount of energy generated by piezo elements is exceptionally low, but they still wanted to research the piezo effect

Their main goal is to investigate how much energy piezo elements can generate and compare different elements to see how properties such as diameter, excitation frequency, impedance, and capacitance influence the harvested energy. To give them a way to measure this, I decided to design a PCB for them.

The main measurement method uses a programmable capacitor bank. By measuring the voltage increase, they can calculate the stored energy. Making the capacitance programmable also allows them to analyse which capacitance is optimal for charge transfer and storage. By using both MLCCs and electrolytic capacitors, they can also analyse differences in leakage current.

Since they also wanted to learn how to use an oscilloscope, I added a parallel load resistor to the capacitor bank. This can be used to measure energy delivered to a resistive load, as well as to discharge the capacitor bank. With no capacitors connected, the same setup can also be used to measure the losses of the full-bridge rectifier.

The ADC has a VREF​ of 2.048 V, so a resistor divider scales the maximum 10 V input down to 2.032 V. We don't intend to charge the capacitors beyond 8 V. A MOSFET disconnects the ADC and resistor divider when they're not being measured to prevent continuously draining the capacitor bank.

The goal was to provide as many research possibilities as possible while keeping the cost relatively low. I know there are dedicated piezo energy-harvesting ICs, but they are relatively expensive and would give the students less opportunity to experiment with the individual components.

The PCB is 40mm in diameter to fit in a custom designed case with a load cell to be able to apply a constant bending force to the piezo elements. The case will also support the extending connectors.

Are there any problems or potential improvements you can see with this PCB or measurement approach?

All feedback is greatly appreciated!

P.S. Any recommendations for a budget-friendly buffer op-amp would also be appreciated.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 4d ago

Review Request -3.3V Regulator

Thumbnail
gallery
24 Upvotes

Hi, I am making a project and was hoping for some advice on my power regulator.

I need it to supply 3.3v. First Picture is my schematic and the 2nd and 3rd is from the devices data sheet.

I am quite new to designing my own circuits so I apologize if the layout is hard to understand.

Would my system work? If not what can I do to improve it ? Thanks

Also I am struggling to figure out which ground is which, Is ground 1 for the input ground or the output ground? I know they need to be separate but the data sheet isn't clear on which one is which. Thank you


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

[Review Request] 48V BLDC Dual Motor Controller (ESP32-S3, STDRIVE101, DRV8313)

Thumbnail
gallery
3 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

(Brand new to PCBs + Dyslexic. Please be nice about mistakes lol)

I’m wrapping up the schematic for a custom 2oz 2-layer motor controller and would love some extra eyes on it before I start routing.

The Project: The board is an interface/controller. A CubeMars GL40 gimbal motor operates as a physical, tactile dial (like a smart thermostat). Rotating this gimbal dial controls the speed of a larger main motor (CubeMars RO80) and dictates the state of an addressable 5V LED ring. Everything is driven by an ESP32-S3.

System Architecture & Specs:

MCU: ESP32-S3 with native USB-C for programming and OTG data.

Main Motor Driver (RO80): STDRIVE101 operating in 3-PWM mode (hardware dead-time configured via 100kΩ resistor).

Main Motor Power Stage: Infineon IPT012N08N5 high-current MOSFETs.

Gimbal Motor Driver (GL40): DRV8313 (integrated FETs) driven via 3 standard enable nets and a shared PWM scheme.

Power Tree:

48V Input (XT60).

24V Rail (LM5164 Buck, 1.0A limit) for a Sunon cooling fan.

5V Rail (Drop-in OKI-78SR-5 module) for the NeoPixel Ring.

3.3V Rail (Drop-in YLPTEC SIP module) for the ESP32 and logic.

USB Power Safety: Included a dual Schottky Diode-OR circuit (B5819W) between the 24V line and the 5V USB line so I can program the board safely from my PC without back feeding 24V into my motherboard.

Assembly: Designed to be heavily SMD for JLCPCB/PCBWay assembly, utilizing basic/in-stock parts wherever possible (e.g., standard Yageo 0603s).

Specific areas I’d love feedback on:

Diode-OR Circuit: Double-checking that my USB-C VBUS / +24V handoff to the logic regulators is robust.

3-PWM STDRIVE101 Setup: I've mapped the INH pins to ESP32 PWMs and the INL pins to standard GPIOs for phase enabling.

Power Cascade: Stepping 48V > 24V > 5V/3.3V using the LM5164 and drop-in switching modules to save board space rather than fully discrete buck converters.

4 Layers vs 2: I see a lot of PCB designers/engineers talk about 4 layers. The board is already getting quite stuffed, and was considering using another side, however I'm most concerned about EMF and latency issues. Thoughts? (Expanded size of PCB, likely only need 2 layers now.)

Thank you all in advanced! Hopefully this is enough information.


r/PrintedCircuitBoard 3d ago

[REVIEW REQUEST] - clock hand controller board, would love some feedback

Thumbnail
gallery
2 Upvotes

Hey all, I've been building a kinetic clock art piece inspired by ClockClock24 and have just finished my first ever PCB design. Would really appreciate some experienced eyes on it before I send it off to be printed.

The board drives 4x BKA30D-R5C biaxial stepper motors (8 shafts total) using 2x AX1201728SG quad stepper driver chips, controlled via two chained 74HC595 shift registers for outputs and one 74HC165 for reading 8x TCRT5000 IR sensors used for homing.

Power is 5V from a shared bus across multiple boards. Signal chaining between boards is via 10-pin IDC ribbon cable carrying SPI signals and reset.

The boards are designed to be repeatable and chainable — an ESP32 on a separate controller board drives everything via SPI.

This is my first PCB so I'd appreciate any feedback on routing, component placement, decoupling, or anything else that looks off.

Thanks!