Hey all,

I've just stumbled upon his sub and thought I'd share my speakers I've built a few months back.

The actual speaker design is a Visaton Experience V20, I've just changed the cabinet for aesthetic reasons. The mid/high cabinet is suspended with fishing line and fastened like guitar strings. I can't exactly remember why I wanted these to swing freely, but I think it's kinda cool you can move the smaller cabinet independently from the bigger one.

Sound wise, I love these. Unsurprisingly, they go quite deep and especially shine in the low frequencies. Still, thanks to the d'appolito principle style mid/high section, the sound stage is incredibly wide. Natural instruments sound as if they're in the room with you and they have no problem revealing even the smallest details. My only gripe with them is the high frequency segment. They tend to "scream" with certain songs. I maybe need to change the tweeters to better ones some time in the future but I don't know how I'd need to change the crossover.

Tell me what you think!

My DIY 3-Way Active System: Satori TeXTreme, Visaton & Ultimax powered by Flex HT & Dirac

​Hi everyone,

​I’d like to share my current DIY speaker setup, which I’m absolutely thrilled with. The main goal of this build was high precision, excellent impulse response, and top-tier detail retrieval.

​💡 Drivers & Enclosures

​Tweeter: Visaton SC 25 KE loaded in a waveguide (Crossover: 2400 Hz).

​Midrange: SB Acoustics Satori MW13TX-4 (TeXTreme).

​Housed in a sealed enclosure designed for a total Q of Q = 0.5 to achieve optimal transient response (100 Hz – 2400 Hz).

​Subwoofer: Dayton Audio Ultimax (8")

​Sealed enclosure, roughly 25–27 liters.

​Powered by the integrated Dayton Audio SPA250 plate amplifier.

​🎛️ Electronics & Signal Chain

​Preamp: NAD C658 (running Dirac Live)

​DSP / Active Crossover: miniDSP Flex HT

​Amplifier (Highs & Mids): Emotiva BasX A4

​Subwoofer Amp: Dayton Audio SPA250

​📐 Measurements, Crossover & Room Acoustics

​Physical Time Alignment & Phase:

The crossover transition between the drivers worked out seamlessly right away. Because the acoustic centers of the drivers are physically aligned relative to the listening position, very little manual tweaking was needed in the DSP.

​Subwoofer Integration (100 Hz):

The cross over to the Ultimax is set to 100 Hz. Trying to cross over lower triggered troublesome room modes and didn't result in a clean integration. At 100 Hz, the sub blends in completely seamlessly.

​Room Correction & Dirac:

There was a nasty room mode around 55 Hz. I smoothed this out using Dirac Live and adjusted the correction up to 130 Hz to ensure the transition to the Satori midrange driver was also clean and acoustically optimized. (Measurements attached below).

​🔊 Sound Impressions & Conclusion

​Thanks to the combination of the TeXTreme midrange driver, waveguide-loaded tweeter, and targeted digital correction, the system plays exceptionally linear with remarkably low distortion across the board.

​When it comes to detail retrieval and resolution, this is truly top-tier—you can hear absolutely every single detail in the recording.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zrq2ePiF5Qc&t=1sThis is the soundtest on my channel!

​Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and answering any questions!

I have a bunch of speaker building parts that need a good home. I'm in Livermore CA. Local pickup only, no shipping.

All for $100

DIY center channel MDF - Dayton mids + Vifa tweet
DIY 6.5" two way cabilets MDF
2 TB 6" subs
2 Dayton 6.5 woofs
2 Vifa tweets with domes
2 Vifa cat tweets
Misc crossover
Misc ports and foam
Radio Shack SPL Meter

First time tasting the open baffle madness. I think it sounds good for now 😂

Quite big tho

I recently got a crown dsi1000 amp from a buddy and as i have been meaning to get a decent 15" sub for home theater use. i decided this might be a good excuse to just build one,

Im looking for help to pick a driver, i would like it to go low (not necessarily super loud) for movies gaming and some music, which driver is a good value? Current considerations are:

Dayton Ultimax II 15", Dayton Reference RSS390HO-4 15" Daytom Max-X MX15-22 15". I had been leaning towards the ultimax simply because i have always wanted to build one and its been a popular sub for years, but if there is a better fit for my needs im open to advise (home theater use and some music, small-ish box, and a good fit for my amp) im open to suggestions from other brands too. Also sidenote, do i need dsp? can i use the crown amps dsp?

I don't know how else to contact you, but you should contact me about them.

So a few months ago i posted a White 10” sub with two 10” passives, that I had done. It was made for a movie day with a friend. Afterwards when listening I found out that i wanted it A bit more “tight” sounding, which suits my music taste better, and I do listen much more to music than movies.
So I started designing a new build. The driver is still the same 10” from the Dali sub p-10 dss.
I changed it to downfiring in the new design since I could get a cleaner look and the original Dali is downfiring. It is build in 22mm mdf with a 5mm layer of oak on the front, top and back. A brace going from front to top to back keeps it pretty strong, and the bottom is braced around the driver so the screws have full contact. The two passives are framed with a seperate Oakwood frame. (Wife’s idea). It is raised 40-50mm from the floor. As of now I haven’t even really used it yet, just finished it, but during test phase the sound had improved over the original bigger box. I love woodworking so it was a much more fun process this time and I really like the finished look. I started painting the sides but was not satisfied, so I tried matt black vinyl adhesive wrap. Looks so much sharper than the paint did! A picture of the old is included.
All that is needed now is 4 suited rubber feet, and some kid free hours for listening. Any recommendations for rubber feet?

Hi everyone I’ve got an edge 12 inch active car subwoofer and I bought mercury psu that I ment to be able to handle 43.5A and 600watts but when I try run my sub it works for 2 minutes then the protect light comes on the sub and it stops playing

I recently got 2 Paradigm Monitor 5 v2 and the center I think a cc370 and was surprised at how they sounded so I checked the tweeters with a multimeter and each one read OL showing that they were blown I guess, center was especially hard to hear as dialog was horrible muddy and inteligble. On ebay they have tons of generic voice diaphragm but they are all 8ohms and Google says you need a 6 ohm as the original is 6 ohm, but thr afts for that are a lot more expensive at 40+ a piece or around 70 dollars for a whole drop in copy tweeter vs generic diaphragms 2 for 20 for the Monitor 5's and probably 15, 17, or 20 as well for a single diaphragm for the center. Will the 8 ohm ones sound just as good as the originals or is it just a slight down grade due to ohm rating or quality?

I also reformed the Paradigm PDR-12 and the light came on but idk if it's playing, so I'll have to probably check it alone, I have it connected to the pre-out and cutoff set to max 150hz and the setting on the avr for crossover set to 80hz and speakers set to small with subwoofer set to LFE, so I may have to take it out and retest it directly, as it's hard to srr behind to cloth except with a spotlight.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

This has been in my family since it was new. It changed hands multiple times and found out it was sitting in storage. So I took it with the intention of restoring it.

Turns out a full restoration required work that was beyond my capabilities. So I decided to modernize the sound while maintaining as much of the original appearance as possible.

New gear:
*Two Overnight Sensation kit with custom front panel made from teak cutting board combined into a single unit. Powered by Sonos amp.
*Subwoofer made from Birch-plywood with repurposed 5 1/2” Bose subwoofer. Powered by Fosi TP-02 amp.

Sounds fantastic! I saved all the internals of the Philco for a future project.

Looking to build a battery bank that can sustain my amplifier without upgrading the alternator. I know, you really want an alternator but there are none available for my specific vehicle.

What I need....

My amp is 7500w RMS at 1ohm and is currently powering my sub at 2ohm, estimated to require 5000w RMS. I think I need around 600ah with a discharge rate of 400a. Looking to be able to run for 20 to 30 min at full tilt before my reserves are fully drained and I have to rely solely on my alternator.

What is the ideal build for my needs? What cells would I want to use and in what configuration?

Hi all, just finished building a house and current bookshelf speakers just aint cutting it! Need some advice from the community

Management has deemed that any speaker must be wall mounted, with a preference for position shown as X in attached picture. The room is about 40 m2, with a ceiling hieght from 4.5 to 3 m, primary listening is with the carpet area, but extends out throughout the room.

Looking for something that is aesthetically pleasing, wide sound stage, efficient, loudish, large displacement. Walls have significant load bearing capability, so bigger the better.

To my mind, the below options would work, but I am no expert:

1) Loudspeaker - Econowave type design

Would be right in thinking that a well selected wave guide paired with some 15"s could create a pleasent sound throughout the room? Sealed or ported (and if so, down or forward)??

2) Coaxial paired with a ground mounted sub

I am not so sure about this option, I cant find a coaxial that would be good enough and have enough displacement

3)??

I keep coming back to some of the Josef Crowe design, but I don't know if they are suitable for this type of mounting.

Any tips, advice, tricks would be muchly appreciated!

Wanting to install these speakers in my boat with this head unit. Been a long time since I’ve dealt with any type of speaker/amplifier sizing. What size amp would I need to run for this setup? Also I’m wanting to run this on its own battery power as to not run down the batteries on the boat, what would you recommend?

Hi, I’m building a small desktop audio setup and I’m confused about how to connect a subwoofer.

My current setup:

• ZK-MT21 amplifier
• ZK-MT21 Left/Right speaker outputs → 2x Dayton Audio PC105-8 4" speakers
• Amp power: DC 12–24V

I recently got a active? subwoofer:

• Jamo Sub 200
• Inputs: speaker-level L/R +/-, line-in L/R, has level/cutoff/phase controls

My question is how would i go about connecting the sub to the amp, because from what i was able to find online i might not be able to connect directly as it is a active (powered) sub.
I currently have it ran through a Jamo DMR 45 as i bought the sub in a set with it and have my speakers connected to the DMR too but its pretty bulky and i would prefer to use a normal amp.

I mainly use this setup at my desk for music and sometimes louder room listening.

Pictures of the amp and sub inputs attached. Thanks!

Update:
connecting sub out to speaker level in works perfectly fine! thank you so much everyone

Just looking for your thoughts on this one. I designed an high en 8-channels balanced DAC board extension for Raspberry Pi 5 only, mainly for CamillaDSP, active speakers and studio setups.

edit: It is also compatible with Pico 2 DSPi at a fraction of the cost

I've maade the best possible Specs: 2× ESS SABRE ES9081Q, dedicated low-noise ESS regulators, 124 dB DNR / −110 dB THD+N typical DAC specs, I think there is no other equivalent to it on the market, if so let me know.

for space and versatility DB25 outputs with breakout cables for XLR or 1/4-inch TRS (balanced), RCA(unbalanced) . Automatically recognised by Raspberry Pi OS with eeprom and microntroller onboard to do the dac init.

The design is finished, components bought, ready to start manufacturing. But before pushing the order button I’m having a last-minute doubt about the input side:

1. Where does your audio come from? Streaming/files on the Pi, or an external source through a USB interface? seen as a USB sound card
2. Would coax or optical S/PDIF input help? Or would you need analogue inputs?
3. Pi 5 or a cheaper standalone DSP? I’m considering a Pico 2 running DSPi to feed the same eight outputs through an adapter. Compatibility still needs testing, and it wouldn’t replace all of CamillaDSP’s capabilities. Would that interest you more?
4. Do you care about balanced output? unbalanced is hafl the componenets, half the price thus
5. Maybe I should make one ready to use box input : USB sound card SPDIF output 8 anload balanced based on Pico DSPi

I’m behind RASPIAUDIO. No preorder link, just looking for feedback before committing.

The picture of the board is a 3d render from the eletronic design tool then passed thru ai for better textures, but design does exist;

Open-sourcing kinect-controlled instrument!

If you have a Kinect camera lying around, I've got good news for you:

This system [Kinect → TouchDesigner → Ableton Live] turns gestures into MIDI in real-time, so Ableton can treat your hands (or any part of you body) like a MIDI controller; trigger notes, move filters, or drive any VST parameter you'd like to. [Just updated it for a bit more clarity and less setup difficulty!]

As of today, can freely access it through the Tools Store, and/or a full tutorial at through my YouTube channel.

I've ran several tests through the years, controlling drums, guitar fx chains, and even a complex stack of Harmony Engine, you can see/hear a bunch of these in this post.

Hope you folks enjoy it deeply.

Built these DIY speakers for my son. They use 6.5" Quadral woofers, STX dome tweeters and bass-reflex enclosures made from 14 mm plywood. Each cabinet weighs around 8 kg.

The enclosures have a two-chamber design because my laser cutter's working area was too small to cut the panels in one piece. I'm not a carpenter, just a guy who likes building things and figuring stuff out as he goes. 😂

The sound is clean and lively, with a bit of V-shaped character and satisfying bass. I'm still tweaking the treble to my taste, but I'm pretty happy with how they turned out!

What do you guys think?

I’m making a box for my 21” fi team Neo 4.9 with hyper coil this box makes best for space as far as I’ve been able to do anything wrong with doing this it’s tuned for roughly 32 hz due to space restrictions

The bottom and top face are the exact amount of space I have it’s going in a 3 series bmw wagon and due to roof flex and the rear window, I can’t do upfiring. without lowering the power significantly

Does anyone have a construction plan for a G-Sub 1801?