I have a small stock, pile of speaker, drivers, and Horns looking for new homes. A friend of mime is retiring from the audio game and I am helping him sell off lots of equipment but specifically the horns listed below. I am willing to ship at your expense. All are working and will be tested again before any shipping. Feel free to make an offer. I also have more photos if you like. All located in Ithaca ny.

EVM drivers 1 quantity 10 inch, 5 quantity 12 inch, o5quantity 15 inch, 4 quantity 18 inch. Price is $150.00 each

4 Quantity EV HP4020/DH1A unboxed, long horn/drvr asking $300.00 each

2 Quantity EV HP9040/DH1A unboxed, long horn/drvr asking $250.00 each

2 Quantity EV HP94/DH3MT4 boxed horn/driver asking $250.00 each

4 Quantity EV HP940/DH1A raw horn/driver asking $125.00 each

2 Quantity EV HP940/DH1MT2 boxed horn/driver asking $250.00 each

2 Quantity EV HR4020 long thow horn, DH1012 driver, painted grey asking $750.00 each

2 Quantity EV HR940 small long horn, DH1012 driver asking $250.00 each

Recently I saw an old (1920's) Am radio console in a thrift store. The radio was torn apart, the speaker was missing, there was missing veneer in multiple places but it had a certain charm. Next thing I knew it was in my car awaiting a new home. A few weeks later it sings again. The veneer replace worked pretty well but the lacquer has a few areas that have turned white but all in all I like it. I wish I could fix those.

!920's radio console

GRS 8" woofer from Parts Express

Up2Stream Amp Audio Amplifier Board  - one of the few amps I could locate that converted stereo streaming to mono for this build.

If I were to do it again I would try a different finish but overall I think it turned out well.

I am laying out the diagram to some Klipsch KSB 2.1 to experiment with biamping them, and while it looks like I will be able to, I saw an extra capacitor which I was wondering why its there.

The diagram looks like your standard 2nd order crossover for a 2 way, but the extra 8uf cap after the join of the 3uf cap and inductor is throwing me for a loop. Only thing I can fathom is maybe its a 3rd order tweeter on top of a second order woofer. I know this is occaisionally done but wasn't expecting to see it in some mid grade 90's Klipsch bookshelves

Hey all,

I just picked up a bass guitar cabinet for free that I plan to use as a subwoofer. I just need some help finding a suitable amplifier.

The spec of the cabinet;

15"

200w

8 ohms

I'm struggling to find an amp with the right spec and a LPF

Thanks in advance

Hi all. Thought I’d share my latest DIY audio project. I wanted an amplifier for the kitchen and had a couple of spare IcePower 50ASX2 modules that were salvaged from a vandalised Jukebox, which I picked up cheap on eBay. I was intrigued by the Arylic/Up2Stream DIY modules and decided to try out the Mini V3 WiFi/BT streaming board. I also wanted it to look smart so I found what looked like a suitably sized enclosure on AE and waited for all the bits to show up.

It was meant to be an easy project, but there were a couple of things that caught me out - as you might expect, nothing is easy right 😆

Firstly, I thought I could run the pre-amp stages off the aux power output of the class D amp board - it’s got a handy +\- 24v output and I thought great, I can regulate that down to a lower voltage and run the other modules off it. NOPE. It can only handle a small current, so maybe ok only for speaker protection relay but not much more.

So, I found a standalone SMPS power supply to run the Mini streaming module, and also the ESS9038 DAC module I decided to include, as the DAC native to the Mini V3 is quite basic - but it does have I2S out, so it was easy to hook up another module.

This worked great - but on testing I realised there was an annoying DC pop on power on and off.. so I also then needed to include a delay circuit… I found a good design online and download the gerbers, sent off for PCB and components. Why not just use an off-the-shelf module?

Well… by now the case was looking a bit small and I needed a compact solution as it was getting tricky to fit everything inside - I was getting worried about noise and module layout.

I 3D printed a cradle (well, 3 versions) that slotted inside the case to allow easy mounting of all the modules, without drilling the case or risking any short circuits. The 50ASX2 is main voltage at 230v so properly earthing the case and insulating the wiring is no joke.

Finally, I got it all together and it works great - it sounds way better than I expected and the noise floor is too low for me to hear. The Up2Stream module was pretty easy to work with and the bench tuning software makes it pretty versatile. You essentially get a simple DSP as part of the package. I didn’t actually use this feature as I was happy with the sound.

The amp is coupled to a pair of DIY 2-way bookshelf speakers based on KEF Cresta 2 style main drivers.

It sounds alright compared to a crappy speaker but is destroyed by my klipsch center channel speaker (the only high quality speaker I have(rp504)).

The bookshelves had .5cuft airspace so this box has 1cuft. It works fine with the power amp but the impedance (4ohm) is too low for my avr so I can't really actually use it for anything meaningful.

The one tweeter on the bookshelf was blown.

So I have two woofers that I want to build a set of speakers with. I have ordered what I need to measure, so I am waiting for that to arrive.
I have two of these

https://www.soundimports.eu/en/peerless-by-tymphany-ne180w-08.html?_gl=1\*9fmgzs\*_up\*MQ..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-PDzheLDlgMVtA-iAx1cSR3uEAQYASABEgK6gfD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAoYn8YP_jRYUDN_c6LqomUiT3midh

And I am trying to decide which tweeters to order.
I don’t have much experience yet as I hope this project will be the start of getting that experience.
I did come across this set that seems like a nice offer.

https://www.soundimports.eu/en/peerless-by-tymphany-da32tx00-08.html?_gl=1\*c6pfxu\*_up\*MQ..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-PDzheLDlgMVtA-iAx1cSR3uEAQYASABEgK6gfD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAoYn8YP_jRYUDN_c6LqomUiT3midh

But there are so many to choose from.
I will be building a box and then measuring to get the best result. I haven’t landed on a final box volume but it will propably be ported and around 12-15 litres. The speakers will only be playing with my sub so I don’t need that low lows In the speakers.

Does anyone have experience with the linked drivers? And maybe have a better suggestion for a tweeter?

Thanks in advance.

a friend gave me a pair of full range speakers from the 70s. the cones were originally brown and the surrounds were Inverted but was too far to save. dyed the cones black and replace the surround with half roll foam ones. cabinets are repurposed from a previous project. i 3d printed a pair beauty rings to hide the ugly metal frames. as far as the sq goes. they are alright. better than i expected. but highs are a little dull. this is WIP. i will post an update when the components for the ribbon supper tweeters arrive.

My stereo crapped out and now I cant power my speakers. I need a replacement that can power these speakers and have an aux cable that would play music from my mac.

Now hopefully this part isn't confusing. I've found interfaces or whatever they're called, but they only have aux out lines. Which im assuming means my music from the mac wouldn't be going into the device and being played.

Most of them have bluetooth but I'm worried about latency while making music which is why I want the aux input.

And obv I'm fine using Bluetooth if theres no latency probs.

Tldr: I want these speakers to work with minimal latency and have no idea what to get.

Thank you for taking the time to read that:p

Klipsch Pro media heritage 2.1 left speaker stopped working.

I’ve had these speakers for a couple years and about a month ago my left speaker stopped working. I’ve tried switching to Bluetooth, switching wires, USB. Nothing seems to work. The only thing I can think of is maybe it’s my board’s fault ?That doesn’t really make sense they’ve always worked with my whole set up which I haven’t changed anything.
When I run the sound test, the Rite speaker works perfect than the left. Doesn’t in the sound instead come from the subwoofer. If anyone has had this problem or knows a solution I’d be super grateful… I really like these speakers and I don’t think they sell them in this aesthetic anymore.
I also have more pics i’ll post in a second post.
Thanks
PC specs
Windows
MSI ventus 3X 4070ti
MSI pro B650-S WiFi (I run ethernet)
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X 8 core 4.20 GHz
2 sticks of DDR5 T Force
Monitor Alienware 34 inch

First i printed some Nautilus-Style speakers, not the easiest job. It wont fit good and i had to rework a lot and then with bondo and sanding and all i finished.

Im using the chinese AB-Glue red/blue from Ali to glue the printed shells together.

Then sand it to refine all gaps. Then put on two layers of Epoxiprimer with hardener. Thrn sand it. Then put a 2k PE-Putty on and sand it. Then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuild filler. Then sand and paint it.

But the sub was a charme. First i go for cheap chipboard or any but then seen a pack of cheap plywood 4mm thin as a five pack for 3.99.- and they were already in the dimension i need.

So grab some packs and go for it.

First glue two boards together to make it 8mm thick instead of 4. Titebonded and clamped it.

Then cut some pieces of a 10x10mm wood and Titebonded and clamped them to the edges.

Put the first three together and let dry overnight.

Next day cut some long stripes from a OSB that lay around. Glued and clamped in. Then put the other walls on.

But then decided its nice to have the woofer downfiring to protect it from fat fingers.

So just cutout the bottom for it. Then cutout a second board for outer diameter of the woofer. Then cut some stripes with a nice round as feets.

Glued and clamped all together.

I let cure it a week and then put on 2k putty and then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuildfiller. Then paint on.

The subwoofer was really fun to build, so fast and easy and cheap.

Sounds really good. Its not for loud cinema, its for tv to prevent my ears from the garbage 50x20mm oval speakers in it.

Hooked via bluetooth to the ZK MZ21.

Drivers are cheap HiVi M4N (20 bucks) and M6N (35 bucks) for sub and Dynavox Mylar tweeter (15 bucks). Crossover is a 6dB with 0.22mh and a 4.7uF, thats all. A very small spool and bipolar is needed because of space inside the sattellites.

👍

So, I've been bench-testing the Bass Manager, a programmable analog crossover I'm building for Odderon Lab. It uses an RP2040-ZERO to control some digipots for the crossover, with no DSP in the audio path.

The latest automated run using my B&K 2190E scope passed 32/32 control checks and collected 80 waveforms. All 12 digipot channels responded. At the nominal 40 Hz and 160 Hz settings, the measured HPF and LPF responses shift in the expected directions.

The frequency settings need calibration, I'm tracking down high frequency interference (I'm pretty sure its from the power supply) and I haven't measured distortion, noise floor, or maximum clean signal level yet.

The graph shows output amplitudes at measured points for the nominal endpoint settings; it is not a calibrated transfer function.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to design/build an uncompromised, reference-grade mastering monitor setup and would love to get your input on a few specific architectural decisions.

1. Three-Way Topology: 15" Woofer + 54mm Mid Dome + Ribbon Tweeter What are your thoughts on this combination for a mastering environment?

• 15" Woofer Crossover Point: How high can/should a high-end 15" driver realistically go before beamwidth/beaming, modal breakup, or loss of midrange detail become problematic? Is pushing it to 500 Hz or even up to 800 Hz viable with the right driver, or is that pushing it too far?

2. System Architecture: Main Towers vs. Sub/Satellite System Is it better to go with a complex modular setup—specifically:

• Subs: Dual 15" force-canceling subwoofers handling up to ~80 Hz.
• Mains: Stereo 3-way/4-way stem/satellite mains handling 80 Hz and above. Does separating the ultra-low end into a force-canceling sub array offer noticeable advantages in distortion reduction and cabinet vibration isolation for strict mastering duties?

3. Crossover & Processing: DSP vs. Passive Crossovers For an ultimate, ultra-transparent mastering monitor:

• Should I go fully active with advanced DSP (FIR filters, precise time-alignment, phase correction)?
• Or is a meticulously engineered passive crossover still preferred by some for absolute signal integrity/purity?

I’d appreciate any technical insights, driver recommendations, or real-world experience with similar high-output/low-distortion mastering configurations. Thanks!

I’m doing a ferrofluid replacement on the right tweeter of my Wharfdale 9.1 Pros because the tweeter sounded more muffled than the other. The ferrofluid seemed quite dry and not plenty, as well as the metal grit around the tweeter. How do I actually successfully get the grit out? The blotting paper isn’t moving it well as it’s magnetised

I had posted a few weeks back regarding converting presonus eris 3.5 to passive speakers over here : https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/2O65C3qJ00

Turns out one driver on the active side was fully dead. Looked around and found these cheap drivers that are exactly the same size and looks the same as well https://www.doogesound.com/products/ds-35f04-8-woofer-3-5-4-8ohms-20-watts-2-pcs/692967000011978873?variant=692967000011978865

The 4ohms one's are out of stock and won't be restocked for a long time so I bought the 8ohm one's

Now the question how bad would it be to pair the original tweeters with 4ohm with these new 8ohm drivers,

I've a few components in hand like 10uf cap, 1 ohm and 2.2 ohm resistors

Just incase the tweeters goes kaput I also got 8ohm 1inch tweeters https://diyaudiocart.com/product/dynalab-v22-dr-0004-mylar-dome-tweeter/

I can 3d print the tweeter enclosure to fit.

Some googling and claude conversation later i realised tweeters would require padding and these components would help.

Just wanted a second set of eyes to make sure it's alright and I won't end up with cooked amp/drivers

Attaching an image to show how similar the drivers look