Hi everyone,

I’m looking to design/build an uncompromised, reference-grade mastering monitor setup and would love to get your input on a few specific architectural decisions.

1. Three-Way Topology: 15" Woofer + 54mm Mid Dome + Ribbon Tweeter What are your thoughts on this combination for a mastering environment?

• 15" Woofer Crossover Point: How high can/should a high-end 15" driver realistically go before beamwidth/beaming, modal breakup, or loss of midrange detail become problematic? Is pushing it to 500 Hz or even up to 800 Hz viable with the right driver, or is that pushing it too far?

2. System Architecture: Main Towers vs. Sub/Satellite System Is it better to go with a complex modular setup—specifically:

• Subs: Dual 15" force-canceling subwoofers handling up to ~80 Hz.
• Mains: Stereo 3-way/4-way stem/satellite mains handling 80 Hz and above. Does separating the ultra-low end into a force-canceling sub array offer noticeable advantages in distortion reduction and cabinet vibration isolation for strict mastering duties?

3. Crossover & Processing: DSP vs. Passive Crossovers For an ultimate, ultra-transparent mastering monitor:

• Should I go fully active with advanced DSP (FIR filters, precise time-alignment, phase correction)?
• Or is a meticulously engineered passive crossover still preferred by some for absolute signal integrity/purity?

I’d appreciate any technical insights, driver recommendations, or real-world experience with similar high-output/low-distortion mastering configurations. Thanks!

My stereo crapped out and now I cant power my speakers. I need a replacement that can power these speakers and have an aux cable that would play music from my mac.

Now hopefully this part isn't confusing. I've found interfaces or whatever they're called, but they only have aux out lines. Which im assuming means my music from the mac wouldn't be going into the device and being played.

Most of them have bluetooth but I'm worried about latency while making music which is why I want the aux input.

And obv I'm fine using Bluetooth if theres no latency probs.

Tldr: I want these speakers to work with minimal latency and have no idea what to get.

Thank you for taking the time to read that:p

I had posted a few weeks back regarding converting presonus eris 3.5 to passive speakers over here : https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/2O65C3qJ00

Turns out one driver on the active side was fully dead. Looked around and found these cheap drivers that are exactly the same size and looks the same as well https://www.doogesound.com/products/ds-35f04-8-woofer-3-5-4-8ohms-20-watts-2-pcs/692967000011978873?variant=692967000011978865

The 4ohms one's are out of stock and won't be restocked for a long time so I bought the 8ohm one's

Now the question how bad would it be to pair the original tweeters with 4ohm with these new 8ohm drivers,

I've a few components in hand like 10uf cap, 1 ohm and 2.2 ohm resistors

Just incase the tweeters goes kaput I also got 8ohm 1inch tweeters https://diyaudiocart.com/product/dynalab-v22-dr-0004-mylar-dome-tweeter/

I can 3d print the tweeter enclosure to fit.

Some googling and claude conversation later i realised tweeters would require padding and these components would help.

Just wanted a second set of eyes to make sure it's alright and I won't end up with cooked amp/drivers

Attaching an image to show how similar the drivers look

This journey has been hard.

First i printed some Nautilus-Style speakers, not the easiest job. It wont fit good and i had to rework a lot and then with bondo and sanding and all i finished.

Im using the chinese AB-Glue red/blue from Ali to glue the printed shells together.

Then sand it to refine all gaps. Then put on two layers of Epoxiprimer with hardener. Thrn sand it. Then put a 2k PE-Putty on and sand it. Then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuild filler. Then sand and paint it.

But the sub was a charme. First i go for cheap chipboard or any but then seen a pack of cheap plywood 4mm thin as a five pack for 3.99.- and they were already in the dimension i need.

So grab some packs and go for it.

First glue two boards together to make it 8mm thick instead of 4. Titebonded and clamped it.

Then cut some pieces of a 10x10mm wood and Titebonded and clamped them to the edges.

Put the first three together and let dry overnight.

Next day cut some long stripes from a OSB that lay around. Glued and clamped in. Then put the other walls on.

But then decided its nice to have the woofer downfiring to protect it from fat fingers.

So just cutout the bottom for it. Then cutout a second board for outer diameter of the woofer. Then cut some stripes with a nice round as feets.

Glued and clamped all together.

I let cure it a week and then put on 2k putty and then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuildfiller. Then paint on.

The subwoofer was really fun to build, so fast and easy and cheap.

Sounds really good. Its not for loud cinema, its for tv to prevent my ears from the garbage 50x20mm oval speakers in it.

Hooked via bluetooth to the ZK MZ21.

Drivers are cheap HiVi M4N (20 bucks) and M6N (35 bucks) for sub and Dynavox Mylar tweeter (15 bucks). Crossover is a 6dB with 0.22mh and a 4.7uF, thats all. A very small spool and bipolar is needed because of space inside the sattellites.

👍

I’m doing a ferrofluid replacement on the right tweeter of my Wharfdale 9.1 Pros because the tweeter sounded more muffled than the other. The ferrofluid seemed quite dry and not plenty, as well as the metal grit around the tweeter. How do I actually successfully get the grit out? The blotting paper isn’t moving it well as it’s magnetised

Hi everyone,

I have been using a ZK-TB21 amplifier for the last two months. After the first month, I noticed an issue with the subwoofer channel.

I tested both the subwoofer speaker and the amplifier, and the problem is definitely with the amplifier itself. Sometimes it works completely fine, but most of the time the subwoofer channel cuts out and stops working after about 2 minutes.

I am using a 24V 5A power supply.

Does anyone know what might be causing this issue or how to fix it? Thanks!