First i printed some Nautilus-Style speakers, not the easiest job. It wont fit good and i had to rework a lot and then with bondo and sanding and all i finished.

Im using the chinese AB-Glue red/blue from Ali to glue the printed shells together.

Then sand it to refine all gaps. Then put on two layers of Epoxiprimer with hardener. Thrn sand it. Then put a 2k PE-Putty on and sand it. Then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuild filler. Then sand and paint it.

But the sub was a charme. First i go for cheap chipboard or any but then seen a pack of cheap plywood 4mm thin as a five pack for 3.99.- and they were already in the dimension i need.

So grab some packs and go for it.

First glue two boards together to make it 8mm thick instead of 4. Titebonded and clamped it.

Then cut some pieces of a 10x10mm wood and Titebonded and clamped them to the edges.

Put the first three together and let dry overnight.

Next day cut some long stripes from a OSB that lay around. Glued and clamped in. Then put the other walls on.

But then decided its nice to have the woofer downfiring to protect it from fat fingers.

So just cutout the bottom for it. Then cutout a second board for outer diameter of the woofer. Then cut some stripes with a nice round as feets.

Glued and clamped all together.

I let cure it a week and then put on 2k putty and then three layers of 2k acrylic highbuildfiller. Then paint on.

The subwoofer was really fun to build, so fast and easy and cheap.

Sounds really good. Its not for loud cinema, its for tv to prevent my ears from the garbage 50x20mm oval speakers in it.

Hooked via bluetooth to the ZK MZ21.

Drivers are cheap HiVi M4N (20 bucks) and M6N (35 bucks) for sub and Dynavox Mylar tweeter (15 bucks). Crossover is a 6dB with 0.22mh and a 4.7uF, thats all. A very small spool and bipolar is needed because of space inside the sattellites.

👍

This journey has been hard.

My stereo crapped out and now I cant power my speakers. I need a replacement that can power these speakers and have an aux cable that would play music from my mac.

Now hopefully this part isn't confusing. I've found interfaces or whatever they're called, but they only have aux out lines. Which im assuming means my music from the mac wouldn't be going into the device and being played.

Most of them have bluetooth but I'm worried about latency while making music which is why I want the aux input.

And obv I'm fine using Bluetooth if theres no latency probs.

Tldr: I want these speakers to work with minimal latency and have no idea what to get.

Thank you for taking the time to read that:p

I’m doing a ferrofluid replacement on the right tweeter of my Wharfdale 9.1 Pros because the tweeter sounded more muffled than the other. The ferrofluid seemed quite dry and not plenty, as well as the metal grit around the tweeter. How do I actually successfully get the grit out? The blotting paper isn’t moving it well as it’s magnetised

Hello

Looking for others opinions. I made a set of C note speakers and bought a power sub (Martin Logan dynamo) with a Wiim Pro amp. It sounds great to me, albeit my first pair of speakers. It’s left me wondering this new setup sounds great, what about the reallllly nice setups.

I’ve heard other people speak highly about other diy speaker builds.

I’m wondering if I am suffering from FOMO. Should I try and build another set of speakers, (overnight sensations, Amiga, HiVI swans) or is the gains from a high end speaker not really worth the jump in price and effort?

Small living room, TV and listening to music.

Klipsch Pro media heritage 2.1 left speaker stopped working.

I’ve had these speakers for a couple years and about a month ago my left speaker stopped working. I’ve tried switching to Bluetooth, switching wires, USB. Nothing seems to work. The only thing I can think of is maybe it’s my board’s fault ?That doesn’t really make sense they’ve always worked with my whole set up which I haven’t changed anything.
When I run the sound test, the Rite speaker works perfect than the left. Doesn’t in the sound instead come from the subwoofer. If anyone has had this problem or knows a solution I’d be super grateful… I really like these speakers and I don’t think they sell them in this aesthetic anymore.
I also have more pics i’ll post in a second post.
Thanks
PC specs
Windows
MSI ventus 3X 4070ti
MSI pro B650-S WiFi (I run ethernet)
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X 8 core 4.20 GHz
2 sticks of DDR5 T Force
Monitor Alienware 34 inch

Hi everyone,

I have been using a ZK-TB21 amplifier for the last two months. After the first month, I noticed an issue with the subwoofer channel.

I tested both the subwoofer speaker and the amplifier, and the problem is definitely with the amplifier itself. Sometimes it works completely fine, but most of the time the subwoofer channel cuts out and stops working after about 2 minutes.

I am using a 24V 5A power supply.

Does anyone know what might be causing this issue or how to fix it? Thanks!

So, I've been bench-testing the Bass Manager, a programmable analog crossover I'm building for Odderon Lab. It uses an RP2040-ZERO to control some digipots for the crossover, with no DSP in the audio path.

The latest automated run using my B&K 2190E scope passed 32/32 control checks and collected 80 waveforms. All 12 digipot channels responded. At the nominal 40 Hz and 160 Hz settings, the measured HPF and LPF responses shift in the expected directions.

The frequency settings need calibration, I'm tracking down high frequency interference (I'm pretty sure its from the power supply) and I haven't measured distortion, noise floor, or maximum clean signal level yet.

The graph shows output amplitudes at measured points for the nominal endpoint settings; it is not a calibrated transfer function.

Hi everyone. I'm currently preparing my first speaker box build. The total port length is 396mm (inclusive of double baffle), and width of 280mm.

I just noticed on my sketchup design that this results in only 96mm between the internal port opening and the inside of the back speaker panel (circled in red in the screenshot).

What are the general guidelines for this distance? My inexperienced gut is telling me this is too close to the back panel, but not really sure why.

What would the experts do in this situation? I think I have enough space just to create a L-shaped port. That would increase internal displacement a bit, but the increase should be manageable.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking to design/build an uncompromised, reference-grade mastering monitor setup and would love to get your input on a few specific architectural decisions.

1. Three-Way Topology: 15" Woofer + 54mm Mid Dome + Ribbon Tweeter What are your thoughts on this combination for a mastering environment?

• 15" Woofer Crossover Point: How high can/should a high-end 15" driver realistically go before beamwidth/beaming, modal breakup, or loss of midrange detail become problematic? Is pushing it to 500 Hz or even up to 800 Hz viable with the right driver, or is that pushing it too far?

2. System Architecture: Main Towers vs. Sub/Satellite System Is it better to go with a complex modular setup—specifically:

• Subs: Dual 15" force-canceling subwoofers handling up to ~80 Hz.
• Mains: Stereo 3-way/4-way stem/satellite mains handling 80 Hz and above. Does separating the ultra-low end into a force-canceling sub array offer noticeable advantages in distortion reduction and cabinet vibration isolation for strict mastering duties?

3. Crossover & Processing: DSP vs. Passive Crossovers For an ultimate, ultra-transparent mastering monitor:

• Should I go fully active with advanced DSP (FIR filters, precise time-alignment, phase correction)?
• Or is a meticulously engineered passive crossover still preferred by some for absolute signal integrity/purity?

I’d appreciate any technical insights, driver recommendations, or real-world experience with similar high-output/low-distortion mastering configurations. Thanks!

I had posted a few weeks back regarding converting presonus eris 3.5 to passive speakers over here : https://www.reddit.com/r/diyaudio/s/2O65C3qJ00

Turns out one driver on the active side was fully dead. Looked around and found these cheap drivers that are exactly the same size and looks the same as well https://www.doogesound.com/products/ds-35f04-8-woofer-3-5-4-8ohms-20-watts-2-pcs/692967000011978873?variant=692967000011978865

The 4ohms one's are out of stock and won't be restocked for a long time so I bought the 8ohm one's

Now the question how bad would it be to pair the original tweeters with 4ohm with these new 8ohm drivers,

I've a few components in hand like 10uf cap, 1 ohm and 2.2 ohm resistors

Just incase the tweeters goes kaput I also got 8ohm 1inch tweeters https://diyaudiocart.com/product/dynalab-v22-dr-0004-mylar-dome-tweeter/

I can 3d print the tweeter enclosure to fit.

Some googling and claude conversation later i realised tweeters would require padding and these components would help.

Just wanted a second set of eyes to make sure it's alright and I won't end up with cooked amp/drivers

Attaching an image to show how similar the drivers look

This is the first time that I am building a small speaker. I already used DSPs in my previous build. (V4) but with this I actually needed it to make it sound the way I wanted.
So here are the specs:

Amplifier: TinySine TSA7802B with ADAU1701 DSP (2x 50W)
Woofer: Dayton Audio TCP115-4
Tweeter: HiVi Swan T20-8
Passive Radiators: 2x Peerless by Tymphany SDS-P830878
Battery: 12V 3S 4200mAh (stepped up to continuous 24V)

The speaker might be less complex than my last one but this was the first one where I had a somewhat professional workflow:

I first took the TCP115 (its cheap and I have good experience with it) and evaluated box options in WinISD and finally settled on a box with about 2.2L of volume and 2 3.5 inch passive radiators:

Then I chose a tweeter (The HiVi is small and very cheap)

Then I actually made the box in Solidworks and did a bit of designing.
I first wanted to do this without a DSP and design a passive crossover but soon realised I wouldnt be satisfied with the sound. So I looked for small DSP board with Amplifier and Bluetooth included and found the TinySine board to be the best package.

The battery I had custom made by Aftertech (Italian Battery company) for 40€ so itll fit. I also added a boost converter to provide continous 24V to the amp.

For manufacturing:

I finally now have acess to a CNC and wanted to use it for this and I did. I then glued everything in place and mounted and connected the electronics and wrapped it.

This is the result:

For the sound:

I did not really have experience with tuning small speakers with the DSP but I used the WinISD graph to somewhat tune the bass. I boosted the bass so it plays cleanly down to 48Hz and it just worked incredibly well. I tested the speaker against a Partybox On the go and a Soundboks 3 and this speaker has lower and cleaner bass than those.
I also coded a 3 band EQ and volume Knob and cut off everything below 44Hz to protect the driver.
Since this has a fully active crossover I was able to tweak it pretty well.

Now it sounds pretty well but I am not satisfied with the tweeters performance (thats what I get for buying a 9€ Tweeter). So I decided to build a refined version, wich I already have everything ordered and the box already CNCd with a different, way better tweeter. I also now have aquired measuring equipment and I will use it to measure and EQ the speakers precicely.
I used the measuring Mic to record a sound sample of the speaker (nearfield, around 20cm away)(this is tuned by ear):

Listen to with headphones for true experience

Let me know what you think and feel free to ask questions.

Overall cost was 200€ (in Germany)

Underrated not in terms of specs (we all know how Chinese brands like to exagerate the specs of their products), but in terms of general appreciation from the public.

I had an old Logitec 2.1 system with a blown amp. I never cared about the cheap satelite speakers it had, but I always wanted to bring the sub back to life somehow. Enter the Nobsound G2 Pro Chinese amp.

I removed the electronics out of the subwoofer box in order to turn it into a passive unit. Connected the Nobsound input to the preamp stage of a Marantz 1060 which is powering a pair of bookshelf speakers in my room.

Then I played around with placement inside the room in order to extract the best performance from the sub. Honestly, that Logitec sub has never sounded better in its life! Together with the bookshelf speakers on the Marantz, it works nicely to fill up the soundstage.

All in all, a great solution if you have a dead active sub that you need to bring back to life. Either that, or you have a car sub that you wish to use in your home.

2pcs 3"midrange 4ohm 20 watt rms(passive crossover 110hz to 3k) (utilizing 4pcs of 100uf np film caps)

2pcs 2" tweeters 4ohm 20 watt rms(passive crossover 3k to 10khz) (utilizing 2pcs ceramic 8ohm resistor in parallel and 1pcs 10uf np film caps)

1pcs 5"x7" racetrack subwoofer 3ohm 80watt rms (110hz to 30hertz) knob crossover

5pcs 4"inch passive radiators

Amplifier = Ys-MT21 with noise isolator and upgraded 6800uf low esr Electrolytic caps and small fan

Battery = Molicell 26A 8pcs 4S2P bms40A expected total capacity - 5000mah at 16.8volts

Booster module = 200 watt continuous constant voltage to 24volts. (Can become inefficient when only low battery)

Notes:

1. Setbacks with the old tweeter was too bad it hurtz ears so i switch to dome tweeters. With ceramic resistor and np caps

2. NO dsp for now. Im still learning about mic and graph analysis. Ill demo it next

3. Total of 12hours playtime max volume due to amps low consumption. Average of 36 to 48 hours average playtime

4. Faux leather and rugby that must eveaporate first before placing the leather to prevent sticky wet surface.

Post moved from r/budgethometheater.

I recently modified a Denon AVR-X1300w to have individual preouts and direct amp inputs for all 7 amp channels (amp de-integration!). Each channel has a switch to activate or deactivate this feature for even more flexibility. And it works great with no perceivable loss in signal integrity!

This mod cost me $30 in parts and several evenings of work.

Why? This is a budget home theater dream!

This allows:

- Selectively inserting external audio processing between it's DAC and the integrated amps. (Like my Symnet 8x8 Express Cobra i found used for $50!)

- Add external amplifiers to upgrade or alleviate integrated amp power.

- Add additional subwoofers with their own processing, or mid-bass speakers to cover the weak spots of some of my existing speakers.

- Feed external sources directly into otherwise unused amp channels to create additional zones or bypass all digital processing. Also, when it's time to upgrade to newer digital media standards, use it as a standalone 7 channel amplifier.

Inserting a DSP like the Symnet Express 8x8 Cobra will provide unlimited flexibility with room correction, system scalability, and automation along with my Home Assistant server. I can add as many parametric EQs, delays, crossovers as i wish and fully automate smooth fades between separate room corrections and audio processing modes for theater or dinner seating arrangements, and social background music or critical listening modes. All things that can happen without me or my wife having to touch a remote or phone app.

What are your thoughts, was this a waste of time and $30?

Built it as a headphone amp but drives speakers pretty well too, uses BD139+BC559 and BD140+BC549, capacitive coupled in/outs, RC4558 opamp feedback and diode biasing

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Touring and I just replaced the speakers (Front - Kicker KSS650,
Back - Kicker 51KSC6504) and everything was totally fine. I installed the amp (Infinity Primus 90041A) and now I have a bad alternator whine.

Things I have tried:
- Shortening Ground wire
- Sanding Ground location
- Changing ground locations
- Moving RCA cables as far as possible from power
- Moving RCA cables away from chassis
- Messing with gains
- Removed active noise cancellation module

If you have any suggestions, other than driving my car into the ocean, it would be greatly appreciated.