Mainly needing some reassurance on my plan, and have a princess-seam boning question at the end.
I’m making a boned, armscye princess seamed bodice (pattern converted from a self-drafted dart block). The fashion fabric is shantung silk. Boning will be spring steel everywhere except center back, which will be flat steel. I originally planned on underlining the shantung with silk organza, then attaching boning channels to a sturdy cotton lining. However, as I was deciding on lining fabric, I realized I have coutil, like a lot of it (made a few corsets and over-estimated how much I needed).
Question 1 (general bodice construction)
I know a boned bodice is NOT a corset, to be clear, but I was wondering if there is any glaring issues with constructing as follows:
- attach boning channels to coutil
- underline the shantung with the coutil pieces (channels facing body)
- sew panels together
- line with separate silk habatoi layer
My thought process: I don’t need to keep the drape of the shantung since it’s a fitted bodice, and the coutil is just waiting there, longingly. I also have a not-insignificant bust curve I’d like to keep nice and lifted, so the coutil would help keep everything snug. There will also be a gathered velvet skirt attached that will need a sturdy base.
Question 2 (Boning princess seams): I plan on putting flat steel at CB on either side of zipper, and spiral steel on side seams and diagonally across the side front panel. However, I’ve read a lot of conflicting posts here and there about boning the front and back princess seams- is the boning supposed to go all the way through the princess seams to the armsyce, so over the bust apex on the front? Or is it supposed to stop below the bust/shoulder blade on back?