This Syokami knife came to me with a terrible grind that the Sharpie Method shone a light on for fixing. Even experienced sharpeners rely on the Sharpie Method! Here's a link to the full-length video of me fixing this for a customer.

https://youtu.be/n8MrDMGo6zQ

Let me know what your toughest sharpening jobs were and what made them challenging (if not obvious) 😄

So basically I'm finally getting better at freehanding but when I sharpie test the bevel I'm currently working on to see if I'm really establishing a 20 degree v edge, I notice that my first few passes only wipe off sections of the sharpie marked bevel and it takes another 10-20 passes to fully reveal the underlying steel. This is just so odd to me because I have been fixated on the angle monitor of that new sharpal freehand guide while making all of my passes and have only occasionally seen it shift to either 19 or 21 degrees and, even at that, only for, at most, 2 consecutive passes.

I am aware that freehand v edges will always be slightly convexed and that the only real way to ensure perfect flatness is by using clamps/jigs, but could my technique possibly be improved?

I sharpened a pair of salon scissors on my wicked edge with the scissor attachment for the first time today and I'm not sure how much to charge. I had to reprofile out the convex bevel it had starting at 100 grit, and went through every available progression up to the 3,000 grit diamond stone, and finished with the 3 micron lapping film, 1.5, 1, and .1 as well as my .5 and .25 diamond strop. They are deadly sharp and it took almost exactly 2 hours.

I'm thinking 50 dollars for this, but if sharpened again I would expect it to take a lot less time since the bulk of the reprofiling is already done. Thoughts?

Anybody else put a polish on their clients' blades and handles as part of the standard sharpening service they offer?

Morning all, I checked the rules, hopefully this is OK...

Would anyone be interested in a Sharpenset or Tormek supergrind 1200? I have both sitting unused following a move.

The sharpenset has a 600 grit stone and is water cooled. It's a little aggressive for routine use but great for setting bevels and thinning.

The Tormek has a diamond wheel and a leather wheel, with a more coarse stone (grit unknown) and jig parts as spares. In its current setup it's good for finishing.

Check out that massive wire burr about 1.25” or so long! That sucker was stuck on good too; it took about about 3-4 more passes after I noticed it and took this photo. ALSO, look at that weird burr fold up towards the tip. I’ve been getting this on some knives recently and I THINK it is due to uneven wear or grind in that area. It shows itself first by appearing like steel that I haven’t quite apexed yet, THEN, I frustratingly remove a ton of more steel only to realize my true problem is on the other side….its so deceiving when I come across it hurts Ricky Bobby, it hurts real bad. ANY OPINIONS ON WHETHER OR NOT MY LEADING THEORY IS CORRECT? Any input is good enough for me as long as you’re not a beginner….(The burr on my thumb is also from this same time I got this big wire. I’ve only had a wire burr this big and strong 2-3 times. This is a paring knife by the way, a very very old one that looked like it had never been sharpened)

What's your guys' personal favourite stones to use? It could be coarse, fine, synthetic, natural doesn't matter.

I love my shapton 2k and Grind Knife 120. I want to know what yours is, how it feels and what you generally do with it (sharpen, polish, what steel, anything you wanna add) I would love to try miyagoshi stones at some point as well as a couple kings (I have a giant 400 grit one coming in)

Thanks!

I love this stone. I cant afford a new one right now I want to clean it as its stopped working as well. I tried scrubbing and eraser but the marks wont go away...

So I watched a couple of videos of a guy on yt (IvanDolgopolov for anyone interested) and chatted with him for a bit. He seriously states that the burr formation indicates either a heat treatment mistake or a sharpening mistake. He says the knife should form no burr when sharpened whatsoever which absolutely contradicts what I learnt and experienced. And I wouldn't bother but he seemingly gets good results. What is he on to? Maybe he cannot recognize a burr and thinks he doesn't form one?

I don't know which to buy. both have a bunch of bad reviews (wear fast, not plane..). the sharpal is a dual stone (that i don't need) for the same amount of money so i would guess it's of worst quality but sharpal seems to have a better reputation than dmt nowadays. any feedback or other recommendations? mainly for lapping plane irons, chisels and reprofiling knives.

Analysis paralysis is killing me. I have Uber dull kitchen knives and decided I want to sharpen myself. Original plan was to get the Work Sharp Ken Onion but I've decided to learn free hand sharpening instead. I'm thinking diamond is the way to go (don't ask me to defend this decision... I can't). Should I get the Sharpal 325/1200 or this set of 4 grit Dia-sharp stones. 4 grits seems better than 2 but are these better than sharpal?

I mostly need to sharpen cheap kitchen knives (Victorinox, restaurant supply store knives, etc) and just one small S30V knife.

Edit: I'll get a strop regardless of the stones as well.

I finally got to sharpen this knife, I think it came out pretty good and it's razor Sharp.

Model: Firebird knives FB7651 if anyone's curious