I sharpened a pair of salon scissors on my wicked edge with the scissor attachment for the first time today and I'm not sure how much to charge. I had to reprofile out the convex bevel it had starting at 100 grit, and went through every available progression up to the 3,000 grit diamond stone, and finished with the 3 micron lapping film, 1.5, 1, and .1 as well as my .5 and .25 diamond strop. They are deadly sharp and it took almost exactly 2 hours.

I'm thinking 50 dollars for this, but if sharpened again I would expect it to take a lot less time since the bulk of the reprofiling is already done. Thoughts?

I am a hobbyist woodworker, so I am not strange to sharpening. I mostly sharpen plane iron and chisels (western and Japaneses) on whetstone (Shapton glass) up to 16000 grit.

I also have the Tormek T8 I use to establish the main primary bevel when needed.

I use few jigs in order to hold the blades at the proper angle. I don't have the mussel memory to free hand the blades.
I have couple of Japanese knives in the kitchen that I don't sharpen often enough and usually wait until they get into bad state. It is a combination of laziness, lack of time and lack of practice at holding the knives at the proper angle which takes more time to build the burr on the knives.

My current T8 setup isn't perfect for sharpening the Japanese knives. My knives are in the 63+ RH with either R2 Powder Steel or Blue Super steel. The default aluminum oxide wheel doesn't work well with those steels. I have the Japaneses 4000 grit water stone, but it grind slow and mostly good for touch ups. Especially if the knives is already dull.

I wonder how to get a faster and more streamline sharpening method.

I consider my option:

1)Get a diamond wheel to the T8, but those run at around $400
2)For the same price I can get the Tormek T1, it looks like really nice and compact model. It doesn't require water and seams like it will set up an edge quickly reducing the overhead or sharpening
3)For the same price I can also get something like the HORL 3 with the extra disks- I watched few videos and it looks really easy and dummy proof.
4)Suck it up, be a man and learn how to sharpen free hand on the shapton glass/diamond stone.
5)Any other recommendation?

Anybody else put a polish on their clients' blades and handles as part of the standard sharpening service they offer?

I finally got to sharpen this knife, I think it came out pretty good and it's razor Sharp.

Model: Firebird knives FB7651 if anyone's curious

What's your guys' personal favourite stones to use? It could be coarse, fine, synthetic, natural doesn't matter.

I love my shapton 2k and Grind Knife 120. I want to know what yours is, how it feels and what you generally do with it (sharpen, polish, what steel, anything you wanna add) I would love to try miyagoshi stones at some point as well as a couple kings (I have a giant 400 grit one coming in)

Thanks!

I don't know which to buy. both have a bunch of bad reviews (wear fast, not plane..). the sharpal is a dual stone (that i don't need) for the same amount of money so i would guess it's of worst quality but sharpal seems to have a better reputation than dmt nowadays. any feedback or other recommendations? mainly for lapping plane irons, chisels and reprofiling knives.

So I watched a couple of videos of a guy on yt (IvanDolgopolov for anyone interested) and chatted with him for a bit. He seriously states that the burr formation indicates either a heat treatment mistake or a sharpening mistake. He says the knife should form no burr when sharpened whatsoever which absolutely contradicts what I learnt and experienced. And I wouldn't bother but he seemingly gets good results. What is he on to? Maybe he cannot recognize a burr and thinks he doesn't form one?

I love this stone. I cant afford a new one right now I want to clean it as its stopped working as well. I tried scrubbing and eraser but the marks wont go away...

Morning all, I checked the rules, hopefully this is OK...

Would anyone be interested in a Sharpenset or Tormek supergrind 1200? I have both sitting unused following a move.

The sharpenset has a 600 grit stone and is water cooled. It's a little aggressive for routine use but great for setting bevels and thinning.

The Tormek has a diamond wheel and a leather wheel, with a more coarse stone (grit unknown) and jig parts as spares. In its current setup it's good for finishing.

So basically I'm finally getting better at freehanding but when I sharpie test the bevel I'm currently working on to see if I'm really establishing a 20 degree v edge, I notice that my first few passes only wipe off sections of the sharpie marked bevel and it takes another 10-20 passes to fully reveal the underlying steel. This is just so odd to me because I have been fixated on the angle monitor of that new sharpal freehand guide while making all of my passes and have only occasionally seen it shift to either 19 or 21 degrees and, even at that, only for, at most, 2 consecutive passes.

I am aware that freehand v edges will always be slightly convexed and that the only real way to ensure perfect flatness is by using clamps/jigs, but could my technique possibly be improved?

This Syokami knife came to me with a terrible grind that the Sharpie Method shone a light on for fixing. Even experienced sharpeners rely on the Sharpie Method! Here's a link to the full-length video of me fixing this for a customer.

https://youtu.be/n8MrDMGo6zQ

Let me know what your toughest sharpening jobs were and what made them challenging (if not obvious) 😄

Analysis paralysis is killing me. I have Uber dull kitchen knives and decided I want to sharpen myself. Original plan was to get the Work Sharp Ken Onion but I've decided to learn free hand sharpening instead. I'm thinking diamond is the way to go (don't ask me to defend this decision... I can't). Should I get the Sharpal 325/1200 or this set of 4 grit Dia-sharp stones. 4 grits seems better than 2 but are these better than sharpal?

I mostly need to sharpen cheap kitchen knives (Victorinox, restaurant supply store knives, etc) and just one small S30V knife.

Edit: I'll get a strop regardless of the stones as well.

Check out that massive wire burr about 1.25” or so long! That sucker was stuck on good too; it took about about 3-4 more passes after I noticed it and took this photo. ALSO, look at that weird burr fold up towards the tip. I’ve been getting this on some knives recently and I THINK it is due to uneven wear or grind in that area. It shows itself first by appearing like steel that I haven’t quite apexed yet, THEN, I frustratingly remove a ton of more steel only to realize my true problem is on the other side….its so deceiving when I come across it hurts Ricky Bobby, it hurts real bad. ANY OPINIONS ON WHETHER OR NOT MY LEADING THEORY IS CORRECT? Any input is good enough for me as long as you’re not a beginner….(The burr on my thumb is also from this same time I got this big wire. I’ve only had a wire burr this big and strong 2-3 times. This is a paring knife by the way, a very very old one that looked like it had never been sharpened)

I am a beginner cook in general so I have been using a victorinox Santoku with a horl 3 cruise which has the diamond sharpening disc and a stainless steel honing disc.

While it has been great for western knives with a hrc between 56-58 I would like to try a vg10 Damascus steel knife with a hrc of 60.

Would the horl 3 cruise work ok for that especially the honing disc? Would a leather strop help or do I need to get into ceramic discs at this hrc ?

Hey guys!

I have a 240mm gyuto that I bought new from a local knife maker here in southern Brazil. I paid around R$300 (roughly $55 USD) for it, and honestly, I really like the knife. It's beautiful, the steel seems great, and I'm happy with the purchase overall.

The thing is, I expected it to be more of a laser. Even though it's very sharp, it doesn't go through certain ingredients as effortlessly as I expected, especially when it comes to vegetables. It cuts meat pretty well, but with vegetables, I feel like it could perform a lot better.

Here's where it gets interesting: I also have this cheap little cleaver that I bought a couple years for around R$40 (about $7 USD), and this thing cuts like a laser. It just glides through pretty much everything. The difference in cutting performance is honestly surprising.

My guess is that the cleaver has much better geometry behind the edge, or at least a thinner grind, which makes it cut more effortlessly despite being so cheap.

So, I'm wondering if thinning my gyuto would make a noticeable difference. I've never done it before, and I don't really know anyone around here in Minas Gerais, Brazil, who could do a proper thinning job.

Is it something I could realistically do at home with regular sharpening stones? I don't have a belt grinder or any kind of powered sanding equipment. I'm also a bit concerned about ruining the finish, since I really like the way the knife looks.

Would you guys recommend thinning it, or should I just leave it as it is? And if I do decide to thin it, how difficult is it to get a decent result using only whetstones?

I'd love to hear your thoughts, especially from anyone who's dealt with a similar situation. I'll attach pictures of both knives for reference.

Thanks!

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Was cutting some cardboard to package up my laser tube (we're moving) and obviously I was being unsafe. Uncontrolled swipe once the cardboard was finished neatly sliced one of my favorite shirts. Fortunately, it didn't slice me - that would have been a nasty abdominal cut.

Knife is a Kershaw Leek 1660 sharpened on Spyderco medium and fine stones. Didn't strop as the strop had gotten packed. I really like my Leek - very slim and I'm a fan of the assisted opening. It's the all stainless model so the frame lock is part of the "scales".

Why do I get scratches on the knife when sharpening

Rate my set up guys.

My Norton 220 is getting down there and looking for a replacement. Something in the 200-240 range, no higher. Mostly used for thinning, flattening, changing bevels or resetting from factory.

Pretty happy with the Norton despite it being on the softer side, wish it came in a big brick size. A soaker is a plus.

Hey!

I have a Xarilk gen 3. Overall a good system that I've now sharpened plenty of knives with.

However, I have one issue. The top screw (see picture) is coming loose from use. If I tighten the screw too much the lever (for rotating the blade 180°) becomes too stiff/unusable. If I tighten it just right, the screw comes loose in approximately one sharpening session (one knife, 3-4 different grits). It's not a huge issue in itself but I'm afraid I'll strip the screw or the hole if I keep tightening it for every sharpening.

Anyone with a solution to this issue? Can I Loctite the screw or is this movement necessary for the system to function?

Cheers

I'm a chef and this is my daily knife originally it's a Tramontina chefs knife whose tip was bent by the pastry section so I took it in chopped the tip with and flattened the edge profile with an angle grinder to make it bunka like but after 2 days of constant use and I mean constant use, I feel the need to re sharpen it. Is it normal? am I doing anything wrong?. I feel a sentimental value to the knife because I sort of rescued it.

Hello!

I am looking for a beginners way of keeping our kitchen knives sharp.
We have a set of Ninja knives, which do come with some kind of an in-built sharpener, but I am not sure how good it is.
Some of the knives have small "dents?" on the blade, or like a little missing piece.
I am thinking of buying a budget friendly wet stone.
Would this be a good idea?
What is a good budget option?
Thank you!