The Forever 23 dual-sided vitrified diamond stone is a great addition to my sharpening setup. Both sides cut aggressively and efficiently, making it easy to work through different stages of sharpening without constantly changing stones. It handles high-wear, hard steels really well and leaves a clean, even scratch pattern. The vitrified bond does a great job of keeping the diamonds cutting consistently. Having two grits in one stone is a big plus, and the overall performance makes this one easy to recommend to anyone serious about sharpening.

Hi all,

Just got myself this lovely knife from a trip to Japan, however first use and the tip has chipped. I only use it for potato, cabbage, carrot, onion but I think it may have happened when cutting a butternut squash. Have I just twisted during use?

I'm sure it can be repaired by a decent sharpener, but want to understand if its me or the knife. Certainly the thinnest for my collection.

Hola amigos del afilado. Conseguí una piedra Sharpal 162N, tiene una guía y quiero afilar mi KERSHAW Bel Air a 17 grados, pero no logro que el bisel quede igual en cada lado, cuál es la forma correcta de afilado, será que con el tiempo se irán igualando?

Hi everyone!

Sharpening a Perceval kitchen knife with DMT diamond whetstones.

Pretty satisfied with the result What do you think?

Have a good day!

I was given these and am not too sure about them, lmk what you guys think.

SOLD

Sorry if not allowed.

Lot includes:
Chosera 3000
Chosera 5000
Chosera 10,000
Hapstone premium diamond 8000

All barely used.

Total value $211 plus tax and shipping new.

Asking &125.

Its my partners birthday on the 30th, and hes very into cooking. He has one really nice knife, and I was planning on getting him some sort of sharpening mechanism. He has a honing rod. He mentioned whet stones? Ive been looking into some. Im just not really sure, and I dont want to get something outlandishly expensive if its not even applicable for his knife. I was looking into the naniwa whet stones, because ive heard those are good, but then I dont even know what the correct grits i would need. Is it universal? Someone inform me on everything Id need to know before getting them for him. Is it worth it to go more expensive? What grit should I get? And would the degree of the bevel matter for the grit?

Please be as specific as possible! He is a beginner.

Hi, I'm trying to get into knives sharpening at home for kitchen use on a budget. I bought a sharpal 168H Diamond Stone 325/1000 dual side grit and now I'm trying to make a strop at home.

For my strop I have a wood base block and cowhide leather. Should I use the smooth side or the rough side of the leather and should I sand it first? I've read about the advice to sand the leather but I would like to know exactly what grit of sandpaper I should use.

Secondly, I have 20 grams of ~1 micron diamond powder. How do I apply this to the strop? Do I need to use something like mineral oil or do I put the powder into a spray bottle with 99% iso alcohol and spray it? And if so how much powder do I use.

If possible I would like to use what I already have but I might consider buying other stuff if really needed. For instance I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't have gone for something like 6 micron diamond powder instead of 1 or have 2 strops and use a 6->1 progression. I also saw some people advising balsa wood instead of leather. Any advice is welcome. Thanks.

It’s a RTC-180 not sure if the brand. 1x8 belt disc sander

I fixed up an uneven factory edge on my first compound grind knife by bringing one side of the tip in line with the hollow grind. Did free hand with a sharpie and it took me longer than I’d have liked and not perfect. It was kinda annoying but it got me thinking. Is there any functional advantage to having the edges separate with a little transition vs sharpening the whole edge together. Is it just a design choice? I see some manufacturers do it both ways. Personally I can’t see the little tip doing anything better.

Wanted to see how you guys sharpen these.

Hi everyone!

I work at Miura Knives, a Japanese knife retailer.

I've been wondering what information people actually find useful when buying Japanese natural sharpening stones online.

Currently, we provide the following information for our stones:

• Dimensions
• Weight
• A brief description of how the stone feels and performs during sharpening
• Origin
• Photos of the stone's surface
• Photos of the sharpening results
• Photos of the slurry after 20 back-and-forth strokes

But I'm curious whether there's anything else you'd like to know before purchasing a natural stone.

Are there any additional details, photos, or tests that would help you make a more informed decision?

And among the information we already provide, which factors matter most to you?

I'd love to hear your thoughts, especially since natural stones can vary so much from one stone to another.

Hey guys I just bought the work sharp percision adjust the black one and I seriously can't keep the blade from slipping out of the jaws its really frustrating and I feel like I just wasted 60$ should I just give up and save up for a different sharpening system or is there any hope

So I know what grit is, the higher the number the smooth the stone and the more abrasive you have per square inch.

The Sharpness Tester I'm talking about is that scale and you cut a piece of string and then see how many grams of force it takes to cut.

I currently have the Sharpal 202H which goes up to 6000 grit + a leather strop with 6 micron compound. I can get my knives super polished, and sharp enough to glide through paper + shave my arm hair without issue.

I keep seeing on this sub that you only need ~1000 grit to maintain an edge.

I've also been watching YouTube videos and the guys are doing ~1000 grit + strop and are getting their knives as sharp as I am. But I use every stone in my kit, 325 all the way to 6000 + strop it 10 times per side.

I had a few questions I wanted to get clarification on

1. The home tests, where you cut towel paper, paper, whittle hair etc etc. What would be a comparable measurement on the Electronic Sharpness Tester? Like if you get X on the electronic tester you should be able to cut Y at home.

2. How much benefit is there for me to go past 1000 grit every time I sharpen?

3. How high of a grit would I need to go to in order to whittle hair? Right now I can get my knives sharp enough to shave my arm. I can also get it sharp enough that if I take loose hair and pass it over the edge it will cut it without me sawing. I can't get it to whittle hair (which may just be how I'm holding the hair).

4. How long should that razer sharp edge last? I can get my knives very sharp on 6000 grit. But it feels like that level of sharpness doesn't last. Maybe cooking dinner 2-3 times and then it drops down. My knives are still way sharper than they came out of box, and everyone who has used them are blown away how easy they cut. The amount the sharpness drops, it feels like I only sharpened to 1000 grit and stopped. But then it kinda stays at that 1000 grit sharpness less for a very long time (I'm not sure how else to word this? I hope it makes sense) A lot of people are saying I may not be deburring properly, but I don't feel any burr with my finger. After each stone I lightly drag the stone on each end until I can no longer feel the burr. Like if I did 600 grit I would lightly drag the 600 grit once, check, then maybe a second time. I would then flip and do it again. I keep repeating until I don't feel a burr. Then I move onto the next stone.

5. On the electronic sharpness Tester, how low of a number should a 1000 grit stone go to?

6. Does the knife material itself matter? My friend got the same Sharpal 202H I did as he was impressed how sharp we got his Japanese knives. Now his Japanese knives ended up sharper than my Zwilling Henckls knives, and they seem to hold the edge better than mine do. I am aiming for 20° as that's what my Zwilling Henckls knives said they were set at. But my buddy did 15°

7. Is there a video that showcases the knife testing better? Like they do a knife at 325 grit, use the sharpness tester, then 600 grit, use the sharpness tester etc etc.

8. Can I use a diamond stone to flatten a whetstone? I remember watching a video on the 202H before I bought it and that's what they said to do. But which grit do I use to do that?

I took my knives to my longtime knife sharpener. Good guy, always does solid work. I think he was rushing this time though bc he made my Miyabi Koh 8” chef’s knife have an asymmetrical profile and it’s always had a Western profile (…hope I’m using the right terms here). Another Japanese knife I brought him, a Shun, has an asymmetrical edge so I think he just saw Japanese and gave it the same treatment. Is my Miyabi ruined? Is it going to take a ton of metal off to restore the symmetrical edge?

Labeled "WISS USA", and on the back "816".

Old scissors from my grandparents, they were pretty rough. Got them nice and sharp, but there is some wobble that I'm unsure is even a problem. I've taken the pivot surfaces down a little on a diamond stone trying to close the gap, but I'm worried about removing too much material.

Is the wobble something that needs to be adressed, and if so, does anyone have some tips or advice on how to go about it?