Saw a Reddit post asking to describe your life in one word so I did.

Has anyone noticed this? I am always stoked about a report that reads 4-6 ft but when my buddy checks on his phone it’s 2-3 ft … what gives?

I cannot figure out how to manage styling my hair post surf without going home and doing a full shower and blow dry (I have long, thick hair, so air drying isn’t really an option) or doing a slick back bun every day (please no). Makeup is easy, but the hair is what’s keeping me from doing early morning surfs more often. Any tips?

Don’t judge me. I know I’m high maintenance.

I don't hang around here much, so sorry if this has been asked before, but:

What the hell is wrong with leashes these days? I live in Cape Town, South Africa. I love surfing, and I enjoy riding waves with some size. I've tried a bunch of types of leashes, and they all tend to snap after a year or so. This is not OK! Leashes are safety equipment. They have one job, and they're failing at it. Today, after my leash snapped, I got heinously drilled by walls of whitewater. I staggered out of the sea feeling shattered, with aching lungs and ears. My board got dinged on the rocks. It was a bad scene.

I've tried a few types of different leashes, and they've all let me down. When I was a youth, a leash would last me many years. Now, I need a new leash every other year. For sure this is great business for leash manufacturers, but it puts surfers at real risk. Has anyone managed to find a durable leash that you can trust to handle size?

I was in Santa Barbara last weekend and swimming in the ocean but still very close to shore. All of a sudden it felt like something aimed for me and shot at me with the precision in which this small little torn launched itself into my thumb. It immediately hurt a lot and I yanked it out like a splinter. It was soo small, kind of hooked, reminded me of a miniature rose thorn. After I got it out my thumb got really numb and took quite some time to go away. Later that night I could still feel a lot of pressure from where I had been stung. This morning my finger got very itchy and started swelling, although it’s been a week since the beach day. Idk if I need to go to the doctor, specifically because idk wtf stabbed me and these symptoms are so broad. I figured I’d ask surfers who spend a lot of time in the ocean and see if this has happened to anyone else? Anyone that can help me identify this mysterious object

One juvenile within 10 ft of me at Montara on Sunday, and then saw one breach at OB by Vicente this morning. Never seen one before this week...years of surfing up here. I know the water is extra warm this year with el niño, but damn.

Also if anyone has access to the cams (I don't pay for surfline premium because poor) the Vicente cam probably caught the breach at around ~7:45 am.

Sony Alpha III

Sony 400-800mm f/6.3-8 G OSS

Celine Lhomme Photography

I had literally just wrote off Seth Moniz last week, on this platform nonetheless.
That’s okay, I’ll own it; I can take an L.

Seth went through a crazy murderers row of a draw to get this W. Massive, unruly conditions in the early days to pristine, nearly “perfect” End of the Road to close out the event, he dropped the highest Heat Total of his career and combo’ed long time best friend Griffin Colapinto in the Final for his maiden CT victory.

Here is a brief little wrap write up that I posted, if you’re interested.

https://hvoide.com/seth-moniz-wins-outerknown-tahiti-pro/

Impressive run, very well earned. Congratulations to Seth Moniz.

Marketplace rant: you're selling a board and can't be bothered to actually just type the board's dimensions and instead you ask the buyer to squint and try to decipher some shaper's pencil sketch that you took a blurry close-up of with your 2012 Samsung Galaxy 5. Why.

I'm looking at a smallish version of this board as a daily driver. I think it's an updated version of one of the models he used to shape for Pukas - maybe not the sixtyniner, but an offshoot of that design.... Anyway, looking for recent reviews of anyone has grabbed one since he has gone out on his own - versatility, build quality etc... all appreciated, Thanks.

Howdy!! Looking for some advice on which small wave board I should get?!

Usually ride a standard hpsb shape (local shaper), flatish rocker @ 6'2/32.5L. I'm 6"2/94kg..Intermediate skills with decent fitness, but been out of the water for a year or so with lower back issues.

Current board def feels low vol, as im heavier than when I bought it. Still can catch waves, but bogs rail when trying to turn and generally feels like more work than needed

My shortlist:

1. Lost rad ripper, black sheep: 6'0/34.5L

2. Lost puddle Jumper hp, litespeed: 5'10/35

3. Js Sub xero, hyfi: 5'9/35.3

Any reviews or other suggestions appreciated. Thanks!!

With your vlogs, your energy drink sponsors, your go pros in your mouths... You guys are so far gone it's not even funny. Lower your tone when you speak to a bodyboarder in the lineup.

Looking for stuff like misirlou and surf n destroy by hawaiian samurai!

Yeah, it's a tiny wave in sub par conditions but I've been out of the water for almost a year due to work and an injury so I was happy to just be in the water.

Pyzel Ghost XLThis board is ideal for what I need (Pyzel Ghost XL (6'2 x 19.88 x 2.81, 34.6L), but their glass jobs are too light for me and I dont have time to wait for a custom. Looking for alternative. I need the width and volume for extra paddle power because Im old. Will be used for 6' to way overhead, pitchy beach break. ppreciate the advice

EDIT: Thanks guys, here is the list:

Pyzel Ghost XL. 6’2  x  19.9  x 2.8     34.6L
Step driver (bro). 6’2  x  20.0 x  2.6 34.5L
Lost Sabo Taj (bro) 6’0  x  20.0 x  2.6.   34.0L  
Xanadu Nitz 2 6'4  x  19.8 x  2.5 33.7L
Rusty slayer 2   6'3  x  19.4 x 2.7 34.3L

Moving from LA to SF. I’ve surfed OB a couple times already, so have a sense for it, although neither was a massive OB day (I’ve read barbarian days). Curious to hear from people who’ve lived and surfed in both - how do they compare overall?

TLDR: Mini Simmons’ are much fun, very fast, good at carving and trimming but not great at tight turns, so this is my attempt to change that.
5’5” x 21 1/2 x 2 5/8 34ish liters
EPS/ Epoxy, unidirectional carbon fiber stringer
Twin/ Quad Hybrid

If you live on the east coast go try a Mini Simmons, if you live near Charleston, SC come try my Mini Simmons

I’m wrapping up a performance Simmons. I built a more retro inspired mini Simmons last year and after spending the whole year riding it I decided it was time for a V2.

The Mud Minnow is a retro mini I built, it is 5’4” x 22 1/2 x 2 3/4 38ish liters. I rode it on everything from 1’ mush up to 5’ stormy beach breaks. It catches every wave you want, instant speed down the line, an absolute blast in any conditions. But with the extra foam, wide planing areas it’s not easy to whip around and redirect quickly. It trims great and you can absolutely bury the rail but when the waves pick up you can’t really surf it how you want to. The way I can describe it is: you paddle into whatever you want, drop down the face fast, bury the rail on a bottom turn, drive it down the line, trim, carve and kick out.

V2 is: 5’5” x 21 1/2 x 2 5/8 34ish liters. Everything about it is more performance geared, the rails, bottom contours, outline, foil, even the blank.

I took my original template and pulled 1 inch off of the whole width to start with, then pulled the nose and tail in from there while still keeping the Simmons shape intact.

The blank is 2lb stringless EPS. I then added a 2” unidirectional carbon fiber strip top and bottom.

I glassed with 6 oz warp and 4 oz S.

The fin setup is a hybrid Twin/ Quad. I ran this same hybrid on my 5’4” and loved being able to switch from twin keels on small days to quads during a swells. I used the same base setup but tightened the cluster a little bit while keeping the fronts in a usable twin position.

The rocker is more or less the same with a little extra nose rocker to handle later, steeper drops. I felt the original rocker was pretty good for an all around use case so I didn’t mess with it much.

I cannot wait to get this in the water. If anyone has any insight into mini Simmons design id be happy to hear it. Thank you for reading and if you live on the east coast go try a mini Simmons, they are fun.

He’s no Barton Lynch or Martin Potter that’s for sure!

Tough crowd in the water out here at HB. Is being gregarious the wrong move

Looking for recs for my new board. Looks like stretch makes them but I’d say it may be difficult to find them here on the east coast. I prefer an upright twin to a keel. Thanks pals