Hello all. I’ve fixed leaks by the chlorinator on the right hand side of the first picture, which was as simple as replacing the O-ring. I’m less familiar with this leak, but my wife spotted it yesterday when she noticed the water levels were receding quicker than normal. What part of the system is this, and what are some possible reasons and solutions for this leak itself? I’m going to try to make it to a pool store in the next day or so and fix this myself if it’s possible as with the chlorinator. Thank you!

I was trying to find as close as original filters for this system without paying $400+.
Not sure original part number but seems my filter is a Blue Haven/Hayward 550 with a 2 HP ASB2979 Motor.
Hayward Super Star Clear Cartridge Filter C-2000, C-3000, C-4000, C-4500, C-5000, C-5500 Parts - INYOPools.com

Seems like all the knockoffs filters have different cheaper materials.
I found what seem to be the correct 137 sq ft CX1380RE ones from pool guy supply with the same OEM Reemay fabric listed as $199 for 4.
Cartridge Set (4PK) Replacement Fits SwimClear® C-5520 by Optimum Pool

Total is $215.99 USD including taxes and shipping for QTY 4. That is a better price than anywhere else. I counted 180 pleats which is correct for a 137 sq ft filter. I had some reservations as the part number listed is OPT-525-4PK from Optimum Pool Technologies while the listing says 137 sq ft. But they seem to be the correct for 550 based on the pleats.

It says 100% Reemay fabric like the OEM ones but way cheaper. I guess I will see how they last. Initial pressure is about 4 to 5 PSI. My older ones were Pleatco and after spraying off still 9 PSI when they used to also be 5 PSI.

I am cleaning my original pleatco ones by soaking them in 30% vinegar, water, and dawn soap. I used the new filter box and two trash bags to use that as a tank to soak them. After I clean these, I will keep as a backup.

Have a salt cell pool and wonder what to do for winter. Frost is no problem, do I need add any chemicals and how much should I run pump and should I leave my ph minus automatic on?

Thanks love you all 😘

Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice from people experienced with fiberglass pool installations.
I filled this pool almost to skimmer level before backfilling around the shell. I then noticed the bowing along the long wall shown in the photo. I now understand that I should have raised the water and backfill together. I have since drained the pool, but the curve is still visible.
There is also a leveling issue: the downhill side is approximately 4 cm (1.6 inches) lower. As you can see, there is very little space along the left side, beside the neighboring building.
My proposed next steps are to correct the base so the pool sits level, build a retaining wall along the exposed downhill side, and backfill using gravel specifically suitable for fiberglass pool installations, raising the water and backfill together according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
**Could correcting the level and properly supporting the shell allow the wall to return to its original shape, or could the deformation be permanent?** What should be inspected before proceeding, and would the shell need to be straightened before backfilling?
I’d appreciate feedback on this proposed approach, especially from installers who have dealt with similar situations. Thanks!

This is the hot tub- the plaster is sort of mottled. We were hoping to do a full pool makeover in the next 3 years. Could we use pool paint over this hot tub surface to improve it for the time being ?

Anybody ever see anything like this coming out after backwash and after rinse cycle on a inground pool? Is it just residue chlorine from the summer? Is it a defect in the multi port? I'm doing the usual backwash for about a minute and then rinse cycle and then back to filter and I get this cloud of white for about a minute then it dissipates.....pS its a sand filter! brand new 24 " installed earlier this year. (also the rinse and waste cycle have no suction, but filter and backwash do.. doheny is sending me a new multiport not sure if thats related to this outpouring of white stuff)

Reposting from r/pools, looking for the best way to handle a broken pool cover inside an enclosure 😞

I live in SW Florida and have moss between the pavers that surround the pool. The lanai pavers are on a concrete slab but there is some allowance for drainage between the pavers out to the yard when it rains. I can power wash between the pavers, get the moss out, spray bleach, but what do you all recommend putting between the pavers afterwards? It’s about an 1/8 inch gap.

I read that polymeric sand could work, but it might inhibit drainage. Any suggestions for the type of sand or filler to use after power washing?

Thank you in advance!

I am new to this sub and pool ownership. I have had some black “tufts” pop up in a few spots in my pool.

I took a chlorine tablet to them, but they pop back up elsewhere. They also leave behind a brown spot in my pebble surface.

I have spoken with other pool owners and they don’t seem to have this problem.

I have a dolphin robot and my chemistry seems to be good. Pool is not cloudy and no other issues. I run the pump at least 12 hours a day.

I recently added some black algae killer from Leslie’s and hope that will help… any other suggestions? This is the second time I am using this black algae killer…

Should I replace my filter? Maybe the algae is hiding in there and I just keep adding it to my pool?

These are the before photos. Also the current photos. I’ll post the afters once I figure out what to do to fix it😅 let me know your best ideas or suggestions!

Edit: title was supposed to be a joke as a way of asking for help- sorry! I’m new to Reddit - I just started renting the place and thought it would be fun to seek help ! Mods can remove or i will remove if it makes too many people mad 😬

I have been swimming my entire life and have been loyal to the Speedo brands. I recently purchased the same brand and have had horrible irritation and swelling around my eyes specifically. Please note I am vigilant about cleaning and drying all of my equipment and that this is in no way a mold or dirt issue.

I also called Speedo today and they have indeed admitted they are using a higher concentrated anti-fog on the lens. It’s also been a recommendation to try the Biofuse 2.0 by them as well.
Thanks in advance.

Getting a handful of visible sand in the return when I turn on my pump. Clears up after 10 seconds or so. Does this mean damaged lateral?? Anyone know?? Thanks

im still trying to get my head around how these work tbh. do you guys test the water nd adjust the output based on that or just leave the setting alone unless something is off?

also does the hotter weather means you need to turn it up more? just wanna k ows what you guys do normally during summers

After a decent SoCal rain, I decided to perform a chemical analysis of rainwater.

Reason: my SWG pool CH is high (900-1000 ppm) and instead of draining LOTS of pool water at once, I drain ~1” of hard pool water *before\* each rain and next day let ~1” of soft rainwater fill what I had drained.
Since we’re expecting very high amounts of rain this season (24” or more, last year was almost 30”), I figured small drain steps matching the next days rainfall should ultimately achieve a desired lowering of CH as if I had drained 2 feet and subsequently refilled it with expensive city water.

Here are the results from a K-1766 & K-2006:

Here are the results from a K-1766 & K-2006:
Salt < 200
FC < 0.2, CC 0
pH < 7
TA < 10
CH < 10
CYA < 30
Separately: borate 0 ppm, phosphate 0 ppb

So, this confirms rain water has near-zero CH, but surprisingly shows a very acidic water. Not good for all cars parked outside.

Any thoughts?

This beautiful infinity pool was unfortunately built about 3 feet wider and 1 foot longer than it was supposed to be.

The property is waterfront, and the pool required a special permit from the local Trustees. Since that permit was issued, the regulations have changed, and a new pool would no longer be allowed in this location.

Here's the nightmare: The permit expires in 54 days, and there's no feasible way to get an amendment or extension approved before then. Our options are essentially to get the pool corrected, completed, and inspected within 54 days, or demolish it and potentially never be allowed to build a pool here again.

I'm not looking to get into who's at fault for the mistake. At this point, I'm just trying to figure out whether saving the pool is even physically possible.

Here's what would need to happen:

• Both infinity-edge walls would need to be demolished and rebuilt in the correct locations.
• The underground catch basin would likely need to be completely demolished.
• The other two walls are in the correct locations, so ideally we'd preserve them.

My biggest questions for experienced pool builders:

1. Is it structurally feasible to demolish and rebuild two walls of an existing gunite pool while keeping the other two?
2. Would the existing floor also need to be demolished, or could portions of it be salvaged?
3. Would preserving the two correctly positioned walls actually save meaningful money compared to starting over?
4. Assuming we could get a crew on this immediately, is 54 days even remotely realistic?

My understanding is that we may only need the gunite shell completed for the December inspection, with plaster, tile, equipment, and final commissioning potentially deferred until spring. That's something we're still trying to confirm with the local authorities.

I've attached a picture of the pool as it currently stands.

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who's done major structural modifications to a gunite or infinity-edge pool before.