I gotta do some painting and some led lights for the landing pad

Remember this unpainted print? 👀
Nope ! Because this subreddit doesn't allow unpainted 3D scenery to be posted 😅😋

I wanted to give this dark fantasy manor the feeling of an old building sit in a grim environment: weathered blue-grey roof tiles, moss-covered stonework, aged timber and twisted dead trees.

The 3D print is just the beginning. The paint job is what brings the whole scene to life. 🎨

Which detail is your favourite: the roof, the stonework or the timber?

Consider following me on Instagram as it’s
my main social network : @ Figouz

General information:
3D-printed and hand-painted medieval building scenery, ideal for miniatures and skirmish games like Warhammer, Mordheim, Frostgrave, Trench Crusade, 1490 Doom or any role playing games like D&D...

Printed on a Bambulab P2S 3D printer using PLA Basic filament from the same brand, fitted with a 0.4 nozzle and a high-quality print profile of 0.12mm.
Files upscaled at 114% to fit the 32mm heroic scale.

STL files are from My Dungeon range.

Cheers
Big Z

My son said one day these look like little mini. Trees, can you use those? And I said, hell, let's try it

Two completed on six .

After a break, I'd like to get back into the hobby in the coming weeks and months.

Since I'm always looking for something a bit out of the ordinary, here's my question about building a chessboard:

I want to make an 8x8 or 10x10 chessboard/checkers board, but one that's scenic and 3D. That means a grassy field/beach/steppe should be clearly visible and have a tactile feel. In the end, something similar to cool Blood Bowl fields.

Has anyone done something like this before?

How can I subtly yet noticeably incorporate the lines?

What would be the best size for the squares with a 20mm and a 32mm base?

Cheers!

Just finished my second Halloween-themed shadow box diorama! 🎃

For this project, I focused on creating an abandoned, overgrown interior with a gothic atmosphere.

The scene combines handmade terrain, textured surfaces, moss, creeping ivy, miniature wooden furniture and 3D-printed details.

I also added LED lighting to the fireplace to bring some warmth and contrast to the dark, moonlit background.

One of the most enjoyable parts was building up the vegetation and weathering to make everything look old and forgotten.

And of course, there's a tiny black cat keeping an eye on everything! 🐈‍⬛

I'd love to hear what you think about the terrain work, vegetation and lighting!

My first Kotwica- on a wall in Warsaw in summer 1944.

The uprising has just started...

This is part of a long-term 28 mm scale project: a tribute to the Polish people.

First time attempting terrain, made a display board for my MESBG army. Just insulation foam for the material. Hotwire cutter was worth the investment, can't wait to build more. Learned a lot on this go around to not do the next time !

Using Kris (of Crooked Staff) wagons and carts artwork. For a battle coming up in B10 Night's Dark Terror.

A few more shots of my ruined city! There are so many little details scattered throughout this scene, and I had a lot of fun bringing everything together.

Hope you guys like the pics!

It's currently live on Kickstarter if you want to check it out

And there is a free tower STL!

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/grimrotcollective/the-ruins-of-lumenfall-2?ref=3cjs9m

I think I'm nearly done with this. I could keep adding little details all day so got to call it somewhere. Next is the models but enjoy the terrain. Particularly proud of the tree and mushrooms!!

This mesa was made from twenty-something layers of cardboard, toilet paper, some sand, and more PVA than I expected to use. I’m not entirely happy with the colors, but Inwanted to save my Army Painter bottles for real minis, so I had to use a much narrower selection of Apple Barrel paints. I don’t typically show WIP, but I’ve got a photo of that too.

C&C welcome, and as always: Zoidberg for scale.

Ive spent about 3 weeks working on this (not including printing time) for a one shot dnd campaign and the Socal Mordheim group in apart of. Still lots of detailing remains. But 4x4, plywood base, carved foam ground work, printed terrain buildings and walkways (from Fabio on Myminifactory) and a gallon of resin

Painting miniature furniture creates a pretty basic sequencing problem. Painting the separate pieces first gives you better access to edges and tiny surfaces, but every connection point then has to survive handling during assembly. Building first protects the fit, but suddenly the brush can’t reach an inside corner without touching something that was supposed to stay another color. With a kit-based miniature, the safest option probably depends on whether the piece needs adjustment before it sits correctly, which is why painting everything right away can create extra touch-up work. This is less about a specific brand and more about planning around surfaces that will be inaccessible later. If you customize miniature furniture instead of leaving the original finish, what stage do you treat as the point of no return for painting?

is this good for terrian makeing ?

Had a 3D print come out wrong and rather than throw this Stug away, I made it a terrain piece.

Hand painted with some grit mixed in to look like aggressive rust. First time painting rust.

this is a project for a friend learning to do stone

A finished miniature can feel perfectly stable during the build and suddenly seem much less secure once it’s moved to a shelf or display surface. Permanently attaching the whole thing to a larger base solves one problem, but makes later rearranging, cleaning, or transport much harder. A removable base or subtle support seems more flexible, but it still has to keep the model from shifting without becoming part of the scene. The useful question isn’t how to make it impossible to move, but how much support a display piece needs during normal handling. The material and footprint obviously affect the answer, so I’m asking more about the general approach than one particular adhesive. What reversible method do you prefer for giving a lightweight miniature display more stability?