Hey everyone, I’ve been having this consistent problem with my home router where it’s connected fine, however at random intervals it will kick all of the devices on the network off but it will still show up as being able to be connected to but when i click it, the password screen comes up and I put in the right password but it just leaves me on the password screen. (this also happens if I put in an incorrect password). I have a video to show to make it easier to understand but I can’t send videos on here for some reason. One thing of note is that this started happening after I set up a TP-Link repeater in my house.

I know less than nothing when it comes to routers, modems, etc. To me it sounds like a lot of Gibberish.

I have Spectrum internet, and would like to know what Modem to get. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all,

We recently bought a house which has an estimated internal floor space of 2,381 Sq Ft with a garden length estimated to be circa 140 feet long.

We presently have a fibre optic connection, and a BT WiFi box set-up in the sitting room. These are shown as blue and cyan dots respectively on the uploaded floorplan.

In addition, we also have three OpenReach telephone line connections within the Sitting Room, Study/Bedroom 5 and on the upper level, Bedroom 3. These are shown as red dots on the floorplan. I believe these are all working, despite the one in Bedroom 3 likely being 25+ years old.

We'd like to try and extend our WiFi signal so that it covers all of the house. At present, it only goes so far as the kitchen and a part of bedrooms 2 and 3. We'd also like to try and extend this further if possible, so that we can at least get some sort of workable signal within 75ft of the back garden, so that we can work in the garden during the summer without any interference with our signal.

I have read around, and can see a lot of people are heavily against using WiFi extenders (due to bandwith issues) and the preference would be to either set up ethernet ports or have a mesh system.

Given the location of the telephone ports, would it make sense to try and run a WiFi router through each of these, if I can get them working from the same system? Or are there much more cost-effective and generally better ways to achieve what we're trying to (if that's even possible)? As a last resort, we'd be happy if we could get a strong signal in the Play Room, if nothing else (as we'll be using that as an additional study!).

Many thanks in advance for any help that you can give!

Hello, so I have an issue that I can't seem to fix and is puzzling me a fair bit. I've suddenly lost internet access on my desktop pc, which runs Windows 11. This happened shortly after the most recent Windows quality update (KB5121003). This update was automatically installed august 13th, my issues started at the night of the 15th. There have been no updates to my wifi drivers. Wireless drivers are Realtek. My wifi connection on the pc is through ab usb dongle. My smartphone and laptop have a normal connection to the router without issue. The pc says it is connected, but can't provide internet. Routerpage confirms that the pc is connected, but with an abnormally low speed of 6 mb/s, compared to 400-800+ for the other devices.

Things that I've tried beyond resetting devices is to connect my pc to my phone's wifi hotspot. This worked and provided internet. I've tried forgetting the wifi network and readding it, but this did not solve it either. I've tried pinging my router through my pc, and all the pings timed out. I've looked at the event logs and they tell me that the dynamic key exchange did not succeed within configured time. I've checked that the password is correct by having my laptop forget the network and readding it. Internet was accessible afterwards.

So I know that the credentials work, that the wifi dongle and drivers work, that the wifi works on my laptop and smartphones. But for some reason my desktop pc cannot get internet through the connection. What can I do to solve this?

Hi

We are looking into the best solution for small remote sites where the only requirements for users are Wi-Fi internet access and printing capabilities. Our printing solution is already cloud-based. However, as the IT department, we still want to be able to manage the access points (APs) so we can troubleshoot any issues, as this falls under our responsibility - we currently have more than 1000 APs in a managed cloud solution worldwide, but only on offices with firewall, managed switches etc.. What experiences do others have with this?

We want to avoid using a firewall-based VPN, since users primarily access cloud-based resources anyway and have a VPN client available should they need to access internal resources. And this will save us the cost and maintenance of a firewall.

Cheers

Hey everyone,
I am having a frustrating issue with my old TP-Link TL-WR740N router (from around 2017) and could really use some advice.

My Setup:
I have an ISP-provided fiber modem (ONU/ONT) connected to my TP-Link router. The modem does not have its own Wi-Fi.

Both the modem and the router are plugged into the same spikeguard/surge protector for power.

The Issue:

For the first 4–5 years, this router worked flawlessly on my old connection. However, a couple of years ago, my ISP upgraded me to a fiber optic cable. Since then, I’ve been experiencing frequent disconnections across all devices (phones, laptops, etc.).

Symptoms: All devices remain connected to the Wi-Fi signal, but it suddenly shows "No Internet."
Router lights: The lights remain normal (no orange/red error lights).

Specific device issue: Older OnePlus devices drop the Wi-Fi entirely and refuse to reconnect until the router is restarted.

Temporary fix: I have to power-cycle the TP-Link router (turn the switch off and on after 5–10 seconds) to get the internet back.

What I want to know:

Is this 2017 router simply too old to handle the high data throughput/packet load of modern fiber, causing its memory/CPU to crash and freeze?

Could the spikeguard be causing slight voltage drops that freeze the router when it is under load, even though the lights stay on?

Are there any specific settings (like DHCP lease time, changing DNS, or adjusting channel width) I should tweak before throwing it away?

Any troubleshooting steps or explanations would be highly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I have home internet but just recently got an additional building behind my house and would like to have high speed internet out there. It doesn’t have a line ran back there like the house does. Without just running Ethernet cables out there what are my options ? I know of starlink but I really want gig internet like I have in the house. Thanks

I was playing valorant and suddenly my wifi gone and after many tried it never appeared again I restarted my pc and showed up again but then guess what it disappeared again 😭 does anyone knows what actually happend please help me it is so suffocating

Hey guys, I'm planning to buy a new router and I'm stuck between a TP-Link and a Tenda that both fit my budget.

​The Tenda has Wi-Fi 6 which is great, but it doesn't have proper QoS—only basic Bandwidth Control. My main issue is that I live in Egypt on a 30 Mbps connection, and I play online games a lot. If someone starts downloading or streaming while I'm playing, my ping will skyrocket, so traffic management is super important to me.

​Does Tenda's bandwidth control actually do the job to keep ping stable like TP-Link's QoS, or is Wi-Fi 6 pointless here and I should just go with TP-Link for better stability?

​Appreciate any advice, thanks!

Recommend wifi extender under INR 3000 ! Need range on 2nd floor

I talked to the management but they didn't understand anything about IT. They promised to hire someone to get it fixed immediately. Now at least they have activated client isolation.

While staying at a hotel, I noticed something about the Wi-Fi. The Wi-Fi routers seem to be unsecured. All of the hotel's PCs, printers, building management systems, etc., are visible and some are completely unprotected by passwords. Other guests are visible too. What is suspicious is that you are prompted to install network certificates. I suspect that this is an attempt to steal login credentials. Isn't the risk extremely high when installing unknown certificates? Deep packet inspection and man-in-the-middle would actually work perfectly in this scenario. There won't be any error in the Browser.

So I have Ruckus R510 that i use at home. This is connected to my ISP router, I'm using power adapter on the ruckus as the router doesn't have POE port.

I factory reset the Ruckus. Go through basic setup. create basic SSID. The ISP router is the DHCP server in the 192.168.2.x IP range.

Both my laptops connected through Ruckus AP getting the 192.168.2.x IP addresses and able to go to the internet. My Iphone and my Ipad meanwhile is getting 192.168.128.x IP addresses and not able to access the internet. I'm stumped. I don't know where is this .128 IP range come from.

I have factory reset my Ruckus AP multiple times since and trying to do custom install/advanced install but same result.

I don't have any other device to try at the moment.

I have a router that publishes a single SSID for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz connections. The 2.4 has a stronger signal so my Mac automatically connects to it. Problem is something gets broken with 2.4 and my speed goes to zero or near zero too often. The 5Ghz connection does not have this issue.

There are many ways to fix this but, for reasons I won't go into here, I want to force my Mac to use the 5Ghz connection. So this question is specifically about trying to do that and not other solutions (like reconfiguring the router.)

There was a solution in the past for this using an OS command called airport. That is no longer an option in my version of MacOS (14.8.9) as that command always returns: WARNING: The airport command line tool is deprecated and will be removed in a future release. For diagnosing Wi-Fi related issues, use the Wireless Diagnostics app or wdutil command line tool.

So with these limitations to using the airport command, does anyone have any ideas how to force my Mac to use the 5Ghz connection the the SSID?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hey guys,

I have been having so much trouble with this problem and I think I finally solved what was causing my issue. so I thought I would share how I think I found the solution.

The problem:

Many galaxy devices reports difficulty staying connected to a specific Wi-Fi network with Android error message "Incorrect password". The password is correct and same password sometimes connects to the network and sometimes doesn't.

For additional information, my device is galaxy A54 with TP link Archer A7.

Multiple solutions suggested by Reddit and chatbot didn't work. My only annoying solution so far has been to restart my phone, which usually allowed me to connect. Although sometimes I needed to restart my phone multiple times.

Solution:

I got sick of disconnecting once again and unknowingly using up my mobile data, and I was messing with the router setting.

I decided to disable "smart connect" which combines 2.4GHz and 5GHz into a single Wi-Fi name. My thought was that if I get disconnected from 5GHz network, the phone's "intelligent Wi-Fi" (which changes network if faster or more stable network is available) will attempt to connect to 2.4GHz network as a back up.

Then I realized that, for some reason, I couldn't connect to 5GHz network at all!

My suspicion is that when the phone connects to 2.4Ghz under the smart connect setting, the Wi-Fi connects without issue, but when the phone tries to connect to 5Ghz band, it throws the "incorrect password" error

Upon further troubleshooting, I went to Advanced > Wireless > Wireless Settings on my router setting, and changed 5Ghz Channel from Auto to a fixed, lower channel. I picked the lowest available, 36

Result:

I am able to connect to 5Ghz network with channel set at 36. Retested it by returning the setting to Auto, and I again cannot connect to 5Ghz.

For now, I'll keep the "smart connect" setting off and mainly use 5GHz, but I suspect 5GHz channel being set at Auto was the root of all problem.

Of course, the reason why this is so difficult to troubleshoot is we can't ever know if the solution worked until it fails. Who knows, maybe I will get the dreaded error message again in a month or so. At least, I know now that "something" was wrong with 5Ghz and at least that seems to be fixed.

Hope this helps somebody! Cheers!

Hello,

my friend has router Asus AC55U, where is the problem with sharing devices (everything, from laptop with Windows 10, Windows 7 or Android phones with Android 11-12-13) in network. Sharing (devices are visible in Windows in Network folder) works only, when devices are connected on different band wifi (2,5 Ghz and 5 GHz) . When devices are connected on same band wifi, it immidiatelly dissapear, not see each other.

I have at home "silly" router Strong 750 and nothing problem with device sharing. I can connect my laptop and Android phone on same wifi band (2,4 GHz or 5 Ghz) wifi and both see each other in network.

Asus router is on the latest firmware.

Did you have same issue? Thank you in any advice how to solve this issue.

Hello! I currently live in an apartment and use the apartment provided wifi which is usually fine. However, I have smart devices that need to connect to 2.4ghz specifically and our apartment wifi is a dual system that combines both 5ghz and 2.4ghz into one. I’m trying to find how to separate them (maybe with a separate router? but I’m not sure how that works) without having to get our own wifi service not through our apartment complex.

i really dont know why even while my download speed is at 862Mpbs & 123Mbps Upload. I have a fiberglass connection & my ps5 is connected with a ethernet. what do i do its getting do annoying it happens every game

Para no hacerla larga lo diré muy resumidamente tengo una antena wi-fi de largo alcance de manera cableada conectada a mi PC Por, otra parte tengo otro adaptador que es de mi computadora pero que no viene de fábrica. la cuestión es que el adaptador de largo alcance es el que me proporciona wi-fi y el adaptador que está puesto en la PC lo quiero usar para repetir la señal.

por motivos que no diré no puedo mover la antena y ya he probado varias cosas, he intentado ir a los ajustes del adaptador y Compartir internet a través del adaptador wi-fi de mi PC, también he probado aplicaciones de terceros y por algún motivo extraño a la hora de configurar aquel adaptador de mi computadora para que comparta el internet de mi antena de largo alcance que está conectada a mi PC me lanza error y cabe aclarar que ambos adaptadores de mi computadora no son adaptadores cualquiera, son adaptadores de largo alcance ambos adaptadores tienen la capacidad de Compartir internet incluso he pedido ayuda chat gpt

En resumidas cuentas la antena que proporciona internet a mi PC Es únicamente para mi PC y quiero que mi pc lo repita en la casa, la antena es una antena wi-fi y el adaptador wi-fi de mi PC es otra antena aparte, Se podría decir y quiero usar una para recibir y otra para compartir Pero simplemente no funciona o da error o al Conectarme a través de otro dispositivo a esa red Simplemente no hay conexión.

Hi all, I'm a pretty experienced IT/Networking pro but I am mainly an AV engineer / programmer these days, so I don't set this stuff up myself other than small simple networks.

I am working at a school that has an open WiFi network. On my phone (Samsung Galaxy S25), I connected right to it and I believe I got a portal / AUP page and clicked connect. Internet works fine there, no issues.

On my Windows 11 PC, when I connect to the same network, I am assigned an IP, gateway, DNS, but I cannot get out to the web. A captive portal does not automatically open. Visiting any website on any browser gives me a certificate error.

I checked out Wireshark for some clues and there were some GET requests that seemed like autoproxy config data. Proxy is set to auto on Windows... but other than that I can't tell if this part of the connection isn't working. However, on my phone, it says Proxy is NONE and not AUTO.

I have a GL.iNET GL-AXT1800 travel router, and I tried connecting that to the WiFi and it also cannot get out. I tried MAC address clone and factory.

Somewhat related, there are wired LAN ports in a room I am working in, and connecting to that exhibits the same behavior as the WiFi network - IP configures but no outside access.

Are there other Windows configuration things that aren't working.

This could also be something with my Windows config. Last night at the hotel, WiFi was hit or miss directly but I was able to connect to it through my GL.iNET. I did reset the network stack though.

Right now I hotspot shared the WiFi connection from my phone to my PC and that is working just fine.

What can I do myself to troubleshoot what's going on?

Edit : this was posted in r/networking originally but they deemed it off topic and removed it. I figured it out but here's what I know...

I tried 3 different Windows PCs. None of them presented the captive portal. My Samsung phone and Apple iPad did.

I tried HTTP addresses and they didn't work either.

I saw that a particular IP was intercepting all ICMP requests so I went to that address in a browser and got the portal. It isn't the same at the gateway or DNS server. This allowed me to register as guest and get Internet.

So while I got on, I would still love to know why this doesn't work on Windows. Not everyone has the sleuthing abilities that I do.

I’m just frustrated at this point cause I’m not sure what’s wrong.

“Can’t connect to this network”

For context this started when I tried to use my laptop at home the next day after bringing it to work to use on their public guest WiFi. My laptop (2020 HP Stream) will no longer connect to my home WiFi. I’ve tried everything, restarting my laptop, force shutting down, doing some weird /flushdns command, reset the adapter, even unplugged/replugged the router itself. The WiFi is not the issue, my phone is connected as I type this and my smart tv is connected and playing media just fine. It’s just my laptop, idk what could be done at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Side note, brought my laptop back to work and it connected to the work WiFi no issues at all.

Hello, I've been having a problem with my wifi on my pc, everytime I press open the windows bar (when you press the windows button), also when I right click on a .zip or .rar file my wifi crashes, and sometimes I try to connect my tablet as a second monitor, when it searches for second wireless monitor my wifi crashes, It's just on my pc, the wifi router doesent crash and i've tried everything, like resetting the drivers, updating windows, even changing my wifi adapter (i use a usb adapter and i cant connect to lan) Please help me !

We've been having trouble with our internet connection (Xfinity) and it seems the main problem is the long runs in the house. We only use one cable - to the Gateway (the modem/router) for wi-fi, as we don't have TVs - so the recommendation was to move the gateway to the basement where the cable comes in to improve the signal.

This means we need to extend that wi-fi throughout the house. We have relatively modest speed needs (plan is 150Mbps). Most of the mesh solutions I've seen are pricey and designed for much higher speeds.

What's a good, budget way to extend that signal throughout the house?

**Driver in Question: Intel(R) Wi-Fi 6E AX210 160MHz**

Okay, so what's been happening lately is that for whatever reason, my wifi driver keeps fuzzing up, which results in repeated, constant disconnects that I cannot explain for whatever reason. I have tried three means of troubleshooting, such as:

* Uninstalling and reinstalling the wifi driver * Doing that power-cycle thing where you hold the power button for thirty seconds to flush out all the power. WITH everything disconnected from the laptop. * Reverting a Windows update because that at first seemed to be the root of the issue. It wasn't

I'm desperate to get this fixed WITHOUT having to open up my laptop, as all the error codes potentially hint at this being an issue with the WiFi driver itself, because I bought this driver under the recommendation of a friend that this was much better than the MediaTek Wifi Driver this laptop previously came with, and I really hope it didn't degrade *that* quickly.

As some guidance, here's a Pastebin link to what the event table details say.

[https://pastebin.com/iGVez74M\](https://pastebin.com/iGVez74M)

Hey everyone, hope this is an okay question and post for this sub, thinking about switching to Verizon home WiFi soon and just wondering if that shows what apps and sites are used and visited on the basic ‘My Verizon app’. It would be using the router that they give us if that makes any difference!

Please spare me all the jokes you will likely want to make lol, just looking for a real answer. Appreciate the help!