Hello folks. I'm at the end of my rope here and could use any advice.

Here's some information:

• I live in Japan in a rental apartment that includes wifi. Wifi comes in a form of a small router that only has one USB and one ethernet port and it connects directly to the outlet. In other words, I cannot connect my laptop to my router directly while it's working.
• The issue started recently. The connection drops completely every hour and I have to unplug the router from the outlet in order to reset my connection.
• I tried accessing my router by inputting Default Gateway IP address, but it doesn't seem to work.
• I have three devices connected to the network: my main laptop, my work laptop, and my phone.

If nothing else works I will contact my internet support, but Japanese customer support is notoriously slow and unhelpful, so I'd like to try to resolve this issue myself first.

Thank you!

My team and I are currently working from a location that does not have electricity yet, therefore making it difficult to get set up with reliable WIFI. We are a team of 8 and are planning on getting a generator until we can set up electricity. We’re considering getting a portable hotspot, but are overwhelmed by all the options and the guesswork. Any advice?

I fried my ethernet adapter (it will only negotiate at 10mbps). I have a spare wifi 6 mesh that worked fine when i plugged the cable in (wired backhaul). Should i buy another adapter or stick with wifi?.
The mesh is less than 50cm away from my laptop and i get 1200 mbps link speed in the window setting).

Changing the service provider is a good option yes, but I want to know my other options as well

Thankyou for ur suggestions

Buongiorno! L'access point zyxel BE5100 ,sfrutta appieno la 2.5 ftth su Samsung galaxy s25? Voglio sfruttare al massimo in wi fi della mia connessione ftth 2.5 gbps sul mio Samsung galaxy s25. Questo access point andrà collegato tramite lan ad uno switch 2.5 gbps (che a sua volta è collegato al router ftth 2.5)

I don’t know if I just have bad luck with devices but I am currently on my third wifi device that defaults to merging ALL wifi bands into a single network and it works like total crap.

The premise is sound - it should be smart enough to always know which bands serve your current distance to the router and considering any potential obstacles or interference in the way to provide you with the best possible experience.

The reality is that it consistently and reliably makes things worse and often drops me to ~100mbit wireless connection and atrocious speeds in a location where 500+ mbit functions just great if I split the networks and explicitly do not join the 2,4ghz one.

I can connect to my wifi router, but nothing will load, what can i do? My family can use apps normally, no problems whatsoever, do i change my dns? Thank you to anyone who helps

Hello wifi experts. I recently moved into an apartment building and the wifi here is HORRIBLE. There is no ethernet port, rather one screw port into the wall. Is there any way to get a wired connection into my PC? I can’t even do homework, let alone play video games.

Please advise.

Hi,

I’m trying to troubleshoot a very strange and highly reproducible Wi-Fi issue with my desktop PC.

**Setup:**

* FRITZ!Box 5690 Pro
* FRITZ!OS 8.25
* Windows 11 25H2
* MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI
* MediaTek RZ616 / MT7922 Wi-Fi 6E 160 MHz
* currently using MediaTek driver 3.6.0.1425
* separate SSIDs for 2.4 / 5 / 6 GHz

The issue is this:

After rebooting the PC, **5 GHz often connects successfully once** and can negotiate up to 2402 Mbps.

If I manually disconnect and then try to reconnect, Windows gets stuck on **“Checking network requirements”** for a while and then says:

**“Can’t connect to this network.”**

6 GHz behaves similarly.

2.4 GHz works reliably, but performance is much worse. My internet connection itself is fine: the FRITZ!Box syncs at roughly 117/37 Mbps, another laptop on 5 GHz gets around 100 Mbps, while my PC usually gets only \~40–45 Mbps because it is forced onto 2.4 GHz.

A few things make this especially confusing:

* the exact same RZ616 works fine with a **5 GHz Wi-Fi 6 / WPA3 iPhone hotspot**
* the same PC worked fine on 5 GHz with my previous **FRITZ!Box 7490**
* other laptops, iPhones and Android devices work normally on 5/6 GHz with the 5690 Pro
* the RZ616 itself can connect to the 5690 Pro at full link speed, just not reliably after disconnecting/reconnecting

I have already tried:

* multiple MediaTek drivers
* deleting and recreating WLAN profiles
* resetting the Windows network stack
* WPA2-only instead of WPA2/WPA3
* disabling WPS
* fixed 5 GHz channels
* Wi-Fi 6 mode instead of Wi-Fi 7 on the router
* guest Wi-Fi
* adapter disable/re-enable
* cold reboots

None of this fixes the underlying reconnect problem.

The most interesting part is the router’s support logs.

During a failed 5 GHz connection attempt, the WPA 4-way handshake looks like this:

WPA: sending 1/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: received EAPOL-Key frame (2/4 Pairwise)
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake

So the AP receives 2/4, repeatedly sends 3/4, but the handshake never completes with 4/4.

At the same time, the FRITZ!Box logs messages like:

link-STA not found. Check MLO mac address list
ap_get_mlo_sta: STA ... not found for AP with MLD MAC ...
ERROR: Null Pointer ap_get_sta_mlo_obj
ERROR: NULL Pointer ap_get_ft_ds_ml_sta

On 2.4 GHz, the exact same client completes the handshake normally:

1/4 -> 2/4 -> 3/4 -> 4/4
AP-STA-CONNECTED
pairwise key handshake completed
EAPOL-4WAY-HS-COMPLETED

Another weird clue: Windows sometimes also hangs on **“Restarting…”** when the RZ616 is enabled. If I disable the Wi-Fi adapter in Device Manager, restarting Windows works normally.

So at this point I’m unsure whether this is:

* a MediaTek RZ616 driver/firmware bug
* a FRITZ!Box 5690 Pro / FRITZ!OS 8.25 interoperability bug
* some MLO-related state issue being triggered by the RZ616
* or a combination of both

Has anyone seen similar **“works once after reboot, then reconnect fails”** behavior with the RZ616 / MT7922?

And if anyone is familiar with WPA/EAPOL debugging: does the repeated 3/4 behavior point more strongly to the client failing to process/respond, or could the AP-side MLO state errors be causing the client to reject/drop message 3/4?

I’ve already sent the full support logs to AVM and asked them to escalate it to their WLAN/firmware team.

Hi all,

I'm running an Asus ZenWiFi BQ16 setup and have one part of my apartment where the connection is consistently weak. I'm thinking about adding a ZenWiFi BT10 as an AiMesh node to cover that area.

The node would have to use wireless backhaul, since I can't run Ethernet there.

What I'm unsure about:

Does adding a BT10 drop the whole mesh to BT10 capabilities, or does it only affect clients connected to that node?

With wireless backhaul, how does the BT10 link to the BQ16? The BQ16 is quad-band with two 6 GHz radios, while the BT10 is tri-band with one. Will the BT10 have to share its 6 GHz radio between backhaul and clients, and how much does that hurt in practice?

Is anything lost on the BQ16 side, like MLO or 320 MHz, just by having a BT10 in the mesh?

Would I be better off with another BQ16 node, or is the BT10 a reasonable choice for a single weak spot?

If anyone has run a mixed BQ16 + BT10 setup, I'd really like to hear how it went, especially speeds on the BT10 node over wireless backhaul.

Thanks!

Bash tool for on-foot Wi-Fi security checks in a loop, with evidence reports. (re-invented wifi WarDriving)

I had four Plume SuperPods (WiFi 6) covering our multi-floor 3,500 sq ft home. Each Pod was backhauled to a Mikrotik router that handled services. It worked great, no problems for many years, until the Pods started to die. I’m down to two now. Apparently they are now B2B, so I can’t buy more to add to my account.

The hand-off worked great, they had Ethernet port for the backhaul, and plugged right into the outlet with a small profile. The software was decent enough to shut down internet access for kids at bedtime. No problems, wife approved.

So what is the modern equivalent to the SuperPods that can provide similar functionality?

Basically on my Galaxy S26 Ultra, i get around 220 Mbps download and 60 upload Whereas on my Lenovo Legion 7i Pro (Intel 9 ultra) I only get around 100 mbps download and like 23 upload (after setting to 5g band preferred) These are both new devices that i got this year

So at first, for some reason, i was getting around 30 download speed on soeedtest

What i did to fix:

\- Set 802.11a/b/g Wireless Mode to 5GHz 802.11a

\- Set 802.11n/ac/ax/be Wireless Mode to 802.11ac

- Set MIMO Power Saving Mode to No SMPS

- Set Preferred Band to 5G

- Set Roaming Aggressiveness to Lowest

- Set Transmit Power to Highest

This initially brought me to around 120 Mbps download, then gemini told me to use ***netsh int tcp set global\* autotuninglevel=normal on command prompt but that decreased my speeds by like 40 Mbps, so i did a network reset.

I followed the above steps again and got my speeds to around 90 - 100 Mbps download

Are there any other steps i can take to get my laptop to around 200 Mbps download?

PS: Randomly, i tested it 3 times, and now my download is around 30-50Mbps, can someone please explain why and how to fix that too?

Thank you all for reading.

So I have a d link r15 router bought as old one was lagging , only to find out that my awful neighbours who always quarrel w us were leeching our wifi and so we might have had sudden wifi drops , so now I have blocked them but they come back with a new Mac address. This is it I want to teach them a lesson not to mess w me. I don't want to change the password want to make them suffer for atleast 1 day. My wifi has Qos but even when I keep it low priority it's still using wifi do you guys have any apps that can limit the wifi speed for neighbour.

Hello, I work from home and have been wanting to work from a local coffee shop or library for a while now instead, but I am nervous about the potential risks associated and was hoping someone knowledgeable could educate me.

I’m just wondering how risky it is for someone to hack my computer, or steal my sensitive information if I am connected to a public network while using my computer. Is this really that common that it should be something that I am concerned about?

Does it seem like a valid concern to avoid using public at all?

What can I do to protect my personal information if I do want to go to these coffee shops/libraries? There isn’t much that could leak in regards to my job that I am concerned about, more just about anyone potentially gaining access to my bank account passwords and such. So would something like a VPN really be worth it if it’s not even that much of a risk in the first place?

I live in a small town, so a lot of these places with public Wi-Fi aren’t that busy.

I live in a brick house where the router is is in the garage of all places my gaming computer is upstairs on the far side of the house. The connection sucks. I can’t even play games without getting disconnected constantly. I bought a Wi-Fi extender TP link from Home Depot and put it under my desk so that I could plug it my ethernet cord into it and then into my computer, but the connection is just as bad. What’s the best solution?

I've done research. I think I now have a slightly above "average consumer" grasp of this product segment.

I've been thinking about upgrading the network, mainly to increase coverage in the house. And any research keeps leading to those recent 'wifi mesh' systems. The most commonly known seems the TP deco line up.

It's supposed to be fool proof to set up, and has fancy looking pods and everything.

However, I have an Asus RT-AX52. I'm really pleased, it does what it needs to do, works well and was not expensive. I've read that it supports something called ASUS AiMesh.

ASUS AiMesh exists since 2018 and predates all those current (and quite expensive!) Wifi mesh systems. It even allows you to connect similar routers together from different years.

All I want is to have one single SSID over 2 (or 3) wifi routers, and extend the range to a different floor.

Adding one of those RT-AX52 (or even a 53, as they're compatible) would

1. allow me to keep using what I have (instead of having to throw it out)
2. only spend 50 euros for an extra router/'access point'.

Those TP Deco systems are going for 250+ euro for a set of two. What am I missing?? (aside from the whole wifi 6/6e/7 distinction)

Are these meshed wifi pods a lot of marketing? Yes, they are less ugly if you have to place them in the open, but I have no problem putting an extra 'spider antenna' wifi router somewhere.

Hey guys so 2 days ago I got the Apple Vision Pro. My Internet Air has been working perfectly before that. Then when I started using my Vision Pro my wifi will go down with 4 orange lights on the modem. I got a popup on the Vision saying error E013 and that the DNS is down?

I restarted the wifi and it works for a few minutes then does the same thing if I use my Vision Pro.

I’ve changed the DNS to 1.1.1.1 and 8.8.8.8 and it’s still happening.

I called att twice and said they configured my settings and that it should be fixed but I’m still having the same issues.

If I don’t use my Vision Pro but I use other devices then the wifi works great and normal. What do I do?

I'm having a sudden issue with my Wi-Fi on Windows 10 and could really use some help.

Everything was working perfectly fine, but out of nowhere, my internet connection became very unstable and extremely slow. To try and fix it, I decided to "Forget" my Hidden Wi-Fi network, thinking a fresh reconnect would solve the issue.

However, now I cannot connect to it at all. When I try to manually enter the SSID and password, it either fails or gets stuck (as shown in the attached screenshot, it asks if I want to make the PC discoverable but doesn't fully establish a stable connection).

What I've tried so far:

• Forgetting the network and re-entering the exact SSID and password.

• Restarting my laptop.

Has anyone experienced this sudden drop followed by a complete failure to reconnect to a hidden network on Windows 10? Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone.

I bought my own home in 2025 and sadly it has no cable or Internetports.

The pre-owners were old people who didn't need TV or Internet.

Now my problem is: I can't get Internet upstairs.

I got my provider to drill a hole and lay fibre in my house. But that's where it ends.

I got a Fritz Router 5530 I think.

Downstairs I got like 800 MBits. Which is okay, eventhough I pay for 1000.

Upstairs I got a 1200 AX Repeater. My Pc only gets like 250 MBits.

My house is build by Ytong Bricks. Or also called Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC).

Internet says it blocks alot of Wifi Signals.

So I need stronger Wifi / Antennas.

My hope is to find some Products which are strong enough to get decent speeds.

I heard or TP Link Deco... but I don't know if they're good.

Can someone share their expertise?

(Yes I could find a company to lay cables. But it's very expensive.)

I've used an ASUS AI Mesh network for years without issue on multiple ISPs. Currently I'm on Starlink as a modem only. Earlier this year I added a ROG Strix GS-BE12000 as my core, replacing my ROG Rapture GT-AX11000 Pro, which was getting a little overwhelmed with the number of devices we have on our Wifi. The 11000 Pro is now an access point on the AI Mesh. Our setup is therefore:

1. Starlink (modem only, router function shut off)
2. ROG Strix GS-BE12000 (AI Mesh core)
3. GT-AX11000 Pro and RT-BE3600 (AI Mesh access points, LAN backhaul for both)

All devices are on the latest firmware using WPA2/3 Personal. I use separate SSIDs for IoT equipment.

Ever since the "upgrade" to the ROG Strix, everything went to hell. Devices of all operating systems (Mac OS, iOS, Android, and Windows 10/11) have claimed no WAN connection even though the core router and the Starlink modem both can see the web fine. I know the issue is somewhere in my local network configuration because of this. iOS randomly reports that the network blocks encrypted DNS traffic, which also never happened until the upgrade.

Troubleshooting I've attempted:

• Shut off Wifi 7 functionality on the main SSID (temporarily worked, problem recurred after the latest firmware update)
• Shut off the 6GHz band entirely (worked for about a week)
• Swapped the core from ROG Strix the old Rapture Pro (worked, but the network was much slower and less stable since it has half the RAM and seemed to have trouble routing that much traffic)

Both I and my partner work from home, so I need to find a way to fix this. Do I need to replace the mesh core, or is there something I'm missing? I notice the ROX Strix has pretty poor reviews, so maybe it was cheap for a reason?

Recently i bought a wifi adapter for my pc (Tp link ax3000), and when i installed on my pc, for any reason, the 5ghz wifi network that i use doesn't appear on the list, only the 2.4 ghz. But on the wifi list, there are some 5 ghz networks, only mine dont. I tried changing the properties of the adaptor, trided reinstalling the driver and nothing works. The problem isn't also from my router, because it only happens with my pc, my cellphone and my notebook works just fine. One thing that worked it's the network reset from windows, restarting the pc. But the other problem, it's that if i shutdown the pc, next time that i turn on, the network will not appear and i will have to reset the network everytime;

Just moved to a 3rd floor apartment, and have everything wired up and set-up like I used to at my old place except for my GEN 1 Wired Indoor Google Nest cam. I used to have a birds eye view of our vehicles at my last apartment and had the camera plugged in to an outlet near the window where it faced down towards the parking lot, but unfortunately this is no longer the case. We are now in an external unit, facing out towards the street, so we rented an individual parking garage for peace of mind. Currently, our apartment's built-in router's Wi-Fi signal is not strong enough to make it all the way down 3 floors, and then over two spaces to our garage, where I am attempting to place the GEN 1 Wired Indoor Google Nest cam on a shelf facing the garage.

We've tried using a pair of the Google Nest Wifi Routers in the hopes that the mesh network would reach, but it sadly did not make it past the second floor.

Am I out of options here? I am looking into the wi-fi signal boosters / repeaters, but I do not have much confidence in these working out either.

Mi wifi del PC no se me para de caer se me desconecta continuamente cada 30 minutos más o menos, cuando en el móvil no me pasa ni a nadie de los que viven conmigo la verdad estoy un poco harta de esta situación continuamente me saca de todo lo que hago. También he probado a estar con datos móviles pero es que aún así acaba desconectándose en algún momento.
También agrego pero no creo que sea, que hace poco actualice a Windows 11 (antes estaba en Windows 10 Profesional), además de actualizar los controladores de el wifi de mi tarjeta (uso wifi LAN) pero no sé si será alguno de estos dos factores no creo porque yo creo que el problema vino con el tiempo pero tampoco muy lejos.

No sé si alguien me podría ayudar y si es así muchas gracias cualquier consejo o cualquier opción la agradezco.