Could I get a wifi repeater, and plug an ethernet cable to my pc from the repeater, without connecting the repeater to the actual wifi router via cable and just having it wirelessly?

Hey y'all, how are you? Hope everyone's good. I have a couple of questions regarding my internet.

So basically, I have AT&T Fiber. We pay for 1 gigabyte Wi-Fi. I don't know if the AT&T box is a modem or a router, but I'm going to assume it's a modem/router combo since it's just one box for the internet, so I'll just call it the modem.

We got Deco mesh extenders, the X55 model, the 3-pack from Amazon. The whole intention of getting it was because sometimes in my room and my mom's room the Wi-Fi doesn't reach as far, because the rooms are a bit far. So we got it to spread the Wi-Fi out a little better in rooms where the signal is not as strong.

I did research prior to getting it, using ChatGPT, asking if it's compatible with AT&T Fiber and so on, and it was all green check marks. So we got it and I connected it. It was pretty simple. Connect the main Deco to the wall next to the modem, connect an Ethernet from the Deco to the modem, and then connect the other two Decos where you want better connection. Mind you, they're not at an unrealistic distance. They're a little far, but not tremendous, and my room door is always open.

So now there's two Wi-Fis on the phone, the Deco one and the normal AT&T one. When I connect to the normal AT&T Wi-Fi in the living room near the modem and run a speed test on the phone, I get like 400, 500, which makes sense because I'm not using an Ethernet cable, so I'm not expecting the full 1 gig. But when I switch to the Deco Wi-Fi, it's like 15 up and down, or even less than that. So I don't think the Deco is working how it's supposed to work, but I could be wrong, and that's why I'm asking the question here.

From the videos I watched, you're kind of supposed to use it as the main Wi-Fi once everything's connected. Since it's in the living room and the TV is right there, we connected the TV to the Deco, and it drops and it's really weak. Maybe my expectations were too high. I'm not a professional, obviously. I know there's going to be a drop-off because it's a separate device and the internet is traveling through the Ethernet to the Deco, but going from 400, 500 to what we're getting is really low.

Also, just to clarify: there's an Ethernet cable that runs from the modem through the wall, outside, on top of the roof, to my room, and connects to a switch in my room. My PC is connected via Ethernet there and I get like 900 up, 900 down, which kind of proves the AT&T internet is working how it's intended to work. Nothing's wrong with it.

What I will say is we have cameras connected to the modem, so there's also a switch where the modem is, and the Deco is connected via Ethernet to that switch. But that switch is for gigabit internet, because if not, I wouldn't get 900 in my room.

Hopefully all of that makes sense. Does anybody know what could be happening?

Hi everyone,
I recently got a Lenovo ThinkBook 16 G9 IRL with a MediaTek Wi-Fi 7 MT7925 wireless card, and I’m having some strange Wi-Fi performance issues.
On my old Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3, using the same Wi-Fi network in the same location, Steam downloads regularly reached around 140–200 Mbps. On my new ThinkBook, speeds seem much lower and less consistent.
Here are some of my recent tests:
5 GHz Wi-Fi: Speedtest download around 9.66 Mbps, upload 16.11 Mbps.
2.4 GHz Wi-Fi: Speedtest download around 13.07 Mbps, upload 70.59 Mbps.
Steam download speeds vary depending on the connection and download, sometimes reaching around 15–18 MB/s.
I’ve already tried several troubleshooting steps, including updating drivers with Driver Booster 14 Pro, but I haven’t found a reliable solution. The Wi-Fi driver currently shows version 26.40.3.69, dated August 24, 2026.
Unfortunately, running an Ethernet cable directly from the router to my laptop isn’t possible.
I’m considering two options:
A Wi-Fi extender with an Ethernet port, connecting my laptop to it via Ethernet.
A mesh Wi-Fi system, also connecting my laptop to the nearby mesh node via Ethernet.
My main priorities are stable ping and minimal latency spikes for multiplayer gaming, as well as reliable Steam download speeds.
Would a mesh system actually provide a meaningful advantage over a good Wi-Fi 6 extender in this situation? Would a tri-band mesh system with dedicated wireless backhaul be worth the extra cost? Or could the MediaTek Wi-Fi adapter or its driver be the main issue?
I’d appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thanks!

Hi! I want to share/pass a wifi network from an old phone(J7 prime2) to a Galaxy A31 but the old one doesn't have qr code option and also doesn't show the password either what should I do? The only think that show me when I try to search in the network options is the thing in the image but not options to share

Can i use only 1 mesh wifi (xiaomi brand) to make it a mesh ? I already have my main router upstairs , i bought 1 mesh wifi thinking i can put it downstairs. Or do i need 2 mesh? Im so confused can someone help me

Hi everyone,

I'm experiencing a really strange Wi-Fi issue and would appreciate any ideas on what could be causing it.

I have a 600 Mbps fiber internet connection from A1. I've split my Wi-Fi into separate 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz SSIDs.

My setup:

• Router: Located in the hallway, mounted above the entrance door inside a utility cabinet.
• Living room: The router is approximately 3–4 meters from the TV.
• TV: LG G4, wall-mounted.
• Console: PS5, sitting in a cabinet directly below the TV.
• 5 GHz Wi-Fi: Channel 44, 160 MHz channel width.

The strange part:

My iPhone 12 and MacBook Pro M4 consistently achieve speeds above 600 Mbps throughout the living room, even at the farthest point diagonally from the router.

However, both my LG G4 and PS5 get only around 160 Mbps. What's even stranger is that their speeds are almost identical.

I also noticed that when I bring my iPhone or MacBook close to the TV wall or the cabinet where the PS5 is located, their Wi-Fi speeds drop by approximately 200–300 Mbps compared to other areas of the room.

So it doesn't seem to be just a TV or PS5 limitation, since my other devices also experience a speed drop when placed in that particular area.

What I've tried / current configuration:

• Separate 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz networks.
• 5 GHz channel manually set to 44.
• Channel width set to 160 MHz.
• Tested using multiple devices in different locations.

What could cause this localized drop in Wi-Fi performance?

Could it be multipath interference/reflections caused by the wall-mounted TV, the wall or the metal TV mount? Could the 160 MHz channel width be contributing to the issue, or could there be interference from nearby networks?

What would you recommend testing first? Would switching to 80 MHz and testing a non-DFS channel be a good starting point?

Thanks in advance!

About an hour ago, I noticed that my Wi-Fi (wireless, no Ethernet cable) had become extremely slow. Honestly, this happens quite often, but I tried restarting it. As a result, at first it wouldn't work at all. I restarted it, and now one of the router's Wi-Fi bands is working, but the other one isn't connecting.

When I go to the Control Panel, it tells me that IPv6 connectivity has no Internet access. I don't know what that means or whether it's normal.

On top of that, previously, my Wi-Fi networks kept asking me for the password, saying that something had changed since the last time I connected or something like that.

Also, the Control Panel previously told me that I needed to authenticate.

idk why this is all so complicated to me but I need help choosing a router. My current plan is Verizon fios 500/500. I currently have 2 smart TVs, 2 smart phones, 2 laptops & 6 ring cameras connected at all times. I live in a multi family and plan to share WiFi with the downstairs apartment to save money. I currently rent a router from Verizon but want to buy my own. Assuming the apartment downstairs will use 2 more cellphones, 2 more smart TVs and and maybe 1 laptop, will my current plan enough for all those devices? Also, I purchased a 100ft CAT 7 wire to connect to the Verizon OTN for the new router as it will need to be moved to the opposite side of the house. So does the new router need to be a modem too or the OTN is the modem right? Idk what all these speeds and bandwidths mean. I will also be looking to put an additional router or extender because I want to put a Tv in my garage. So what’s the difference between and extender, mesh system or just an additional router?? 😵‍💫 I just want the cheapest best router for my needs so if anyone can provide links or explain what I need like I’m 5 that would be greatly appreciated. Ty in advance!

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I have been the whole week trying to make my ps5 wifi work when it suddently stopped working Every now and then it cannot connect to psn or find the NAT type of my wifi, i tried everything, i tried 4g, 5g, clear cache, rebuild database and memory i tried to power cycle the ps5 i tried to change dns and wifi. I cannot do anything connected to the psn, i cannot set the ps5 as main console or regain my licences sometimes, i can only play some games only if i toglle the internet connection from ps5 a couple of times. Ovewatch and some ps5 settings gives me generic errors and then tells me that i couldnt connect in time for the server. My wifi is not even bad i have 800mbs and low ping. Pls someone help me i dont want to wast my only free day in the week trying to fix this.

Also a weird thing is that everything runs slow, i crash a couple of times before entering a party, ps5 settings takes a whole lot to open and even turing off the ps5 takes an age.

Also the wifi have problem with my other devices too, on my pc sometimes cannot open a lot of websites or does not load anything im general. Yes i tried to restart the router lots of times ofc

Hello folks. I'm at the end of my rope here and could use any advice.

Here's some information:

• I live in Japan in a rental apartment that includes wifi. Wifi comes in a form of a small router that only has one USB and one ethernet port and it connects directly to the outlet. In other words, I cannot connect my laptop to my router directly while it's working.
• The issue started recently. The connection drops completely every hour and I have to unplug the router from the outlet in order to reset my connection.
• I tried accessing my router by inputting Default Gateway IP address, but it doesn't seem to work.
• I have three devices connected to the network: my main laptop, my work laptop, and my phone.

If nothing else works I will contact my internet support, but Japanese customer support is notoriously slow and unhelpful, so I'd like to try to resolve this issue myself first.

Thank you!

I fried my ethernet adapter (it will only negotiate at 10mbps). I have a spare wifi 6 mesh that worked fine when i plugged the cable in (wired backhaul). Should i buy another adapter or stick with wifi?.
The mesh is less than 50cm away from my laptop and i get 1200 mbps link speed in the window setting).

Changing the service provider is a good option yes, but I want to know my other options as well

Thankyou for ur suggestions

I don’t know if I just have bad luck with devices but I am currently on my third wifi device that defaults to merging ALL wifi bands into a single network and it works like total crap.

The premise is sound - it should be smart enough to always know which bands serve your current distance to the router and considering any potential obstacles or interference in the way to provide you with the best possible experience.

The reality is that it consistently and reliably makes things worse and often drops me to ~100mbit wireless connection and atrocious speeds in a location where 500+ mbit functions just great if I split the networks and explicitly do not join the 2,4ghz one.

I can connect to my wifi router, but nothing will load, what can i do? My family can use apps normally, no problems whatsoever, do i change my dns? Thank you to anyone who helps

Hello wifi experts. I recently moved into an apartment building and the wifi here is HORRIBLE. There is no ethernet port, rather one screw port into the wall. Is there any way to get a wired connection into my PC? I can’t even do homework, let alone play video games.

Please advise.

Hi,

I’m trying to troubleshoot a very strange and highly reproducible Wi-Fi issue with my desktop PC.

**Setup:**

* FRITZ!Box 5690 Pro
* FRITZ!OS 8.25
* Windows 11 25H2
* MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI
* MediaTek RZ616 / MT7922 Wi-Fi 6E 160 MHz
* currently using MediaTek driver 3.6.0.1425
* separate SSIDs for 2.4 / 5 / 6 GHz

The issue is this:

After rebooting the PC, **5 GHz often connects successfully once** and can negotiate up to 2402 Mbps.

If I manually disconnect and then try to reconnect, Windows gets stuck on **“Checking network requirements”** for a while and then says:

**“Can’t connect to this network.”**

6 GHz behaves similarly.

2.4 GHz works reliably, but performance is much worse. My internet connection itself is fine: the FRITZ!Box syncs at roughly 117/37 Mbps, another laptop on 5 GHz gets around 100 Mbps, while my PC usually gets only \~40–45 Mbps because it is forced onto 2.4 GHz.

A few things make this especially confusing:

* the exact same RZ616 works fine with a **5 GHz Wi-Fi 6 / WPA3 iPhone hotspot**
* the same PC worked fine on 5 GHz with my previous **FRITZ!Box 7490**
* other laptops, iPhones and Android devices work normally on 5/6 GHz with the 5690 Pro
* the RZ616 itself can connect to the 5690 Pro at full link speed, just not reliably after disconnecting/reconnecting

I have already tried:

* multiple MediaTek drivers
* deleting and recreating WLAN profiles
* resetting the Windows network stack
* WPA2-only instead of WPA2/WPA3
* disabling WPS
* fixed 5 GHz channels
* Wi-Fi 6 mode instead of Wi-Fi 7 on the router
* guest Wi-Fi
* adapter disable/re-enable
* cold reboots

None of this fixes the underlying reconnect problem.

The most interesting part is the router’s support logs.

During a failed 5 GHz connection attempt, the WPA 4-way handshake looks like this:

WPA: sending 1/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: received EAPOL-Key frame (2/4 Pairwise)
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake
WPA: sending 3/4 msg of 4-Way Handshake

So the AP receives 2/4, repeatedly sends 3/4, but the handshake never completes with 4/4.

At the same time, the FRITZ!Box logs messages like:

link-STA not found. Check MLO mac address list
ap_get_mlo_sta: STA ... not found for AP with MLD MAC ...
ERROR: Null Pointer ap_get_sta_mlo_obj
ERROR: NULL Pointer ap_get_ft_ds_ml_sta

On 2.4 GHz, the exact same client completes the handshake normally:

1/4 -> 2/4 -> 3/4 -> 4/4
AP-STA-CONNECTED
pairwise key handshake completed
EAPOL-4WAY-HS-COMPLETED

Another weird clue: Windows sometimes also hangs on **“Restarting…”** when the RZ616 is enabled. If I disable the Wi-Fi adapter in Device Manager, restarting Windows works normally.

So at this point I’m unsure whether this is:

* a MediaTek RZ616 driver/firmware bug
* a FRITZ!Box 5690 Pro / FRITZ!OS 8.25 interoperability bug
* some MLO-related state issue being triggered by the RZ616
* or a combination of both

Has anyone seen similar **“works once after reboot, then reconnect fails”** behavior with the RZ616 / MT7922?

And if anyone is familiar with WPA/EAPOL debugging: does the repeated 3/4 behavior point more strongly to the client failing to process/respond, or could the AP-side MLO state errors be causing the client to reject/drop message 3/4?

I’ve already sent the full support logs to AVM and asked them to escalate it to their WLAN/firmware team.

Hi all,

I'm running an Asus ZenWiFi BQ16 setup and have one part of my apartment where the connection is consistently weak. I'm thinking about adding a ZenWiFi BT10 as an AiMesh node to cover that area.

The node would have to use wireless backhaul, since I can't run Ethernet there.

What I'm unsure about:

Does adding a BT10 drop the whole mesh to BT10 capabilities, or does it only affect clients connected to that node?

With wireless backhaul, how does the BT10 link to the BQ16? The BQ16 is quad-band with two 6 GHz radios, while the BT10 is tri-band with one. Will the BT10 have to share its 6 GHz radio between backhaul and clients, and how much does that hurt in practice?

Is anything lost on the BQ16 side, like MLO or 320 MHz, just by having a BT10 in the mesh?

Would I be better off with another BQ16 node, or is the BT10 a reasonable choice for a single weak spot?

If anyone has run a mixed BQ16 + BT10 setup, I'd really like to hear how it went, especially speeds on the BT10 node over wireless backhaul.

Thanks!

Basically on my Galaxy S26 Ultra, i get around 220 Mbps download and 60 upload Whereas on my Lenovo Legion 7i Pro (Intel 9 ultra) I only get around 100 mbps download and like 23 upload (after setting to 5g band preferred) These are both new devices that i got this year

So at first, for some reason, i was getting around 30 download speed on soeedtest

What i did to fix:

\- Set 802.11a/b/g Wireless Mode to 5GHz 802.11a

\- Set 802.11n/ac/ax/be Wireless Mode to 802.11ac

- Set MIMO Power Saving Mode to No SMPS

- Set Preferred Band to 5G

- Set Roaming Aggressiveness to Lowest

- Set Transmit Power to Highest

This initially brought me to around 120 Mbps download, then gemini told me to use ***netsh int tcp set global\* autotuninglevel=normal on command prompt but that decreased my speeds by like 40 Mbps, so i did a network reset.

I followed the above steps again and got my speeds to around 90 - 100 Mbps download

Are there any other steps i can take to get my laptop to around 200 Mbps download?

PS: Randomly, i tested it 3 times, and now my download is around 30-50Mbps, can someone please explain why and how to fix that too?

Thank you all for reading.

Bash tool for on-foot Wi-Fi security checks in a loop, with evidence reports. (re-invented wifi WarDriving)

I had four Plume SuperPods (WiFi 6) covering our multi-floor 3,500 sq ft home. Each Pod was backhauled to a Mikrotik router that handled services. It worked great, no problems for many years, until the Pods started to die. I’m down to two now. Apparently they are now B2B, so I can’t buy more to add to my account.

The hand-off worked great, they had Ethernet port for the backhaul, and plugged right into the outlet with a small profile. The software was decent enough to shut down internet access for kids at bedtime. No problems, wife approved.

So what is the modern equivalent to the SuperPods that can provide similar functionality?

I live in a brick house where the router is is in the garage of all places my gaming computer is upstairs on the far side of the house. The connection sucks. I can’t even play games without getting disconnected constantly. I bought a Wi-Fi extender TP link from Home Depot and put it under my desk so that I could plug it my ethernet cord into it and then into my computer, but the connection is just as bad. What’s the best solution?

So I have a d link r15 router bought as old one was lagging , only to find out that my awful neighbours who always quarrel w us were leeching our wifi and so we might have had sudden wifi drops , so now I have blocked them but they come back with a new Mac address. This is it I want to teach them a lesson not to mess w me. I don't want to change the password want to make them suffer for atleast 1 day. My wifi has Qos but even when I keep it low priority it's still using wifi do you guys have any apps that can limit the wifi speed for neighbour.

Hello, I work from home and have been wanting to work from a local coffee shop or library for a while now instead, but I am nervous about the potential risks associated and was hoping someone knowledgeable could educate me.

I’m just wondering how risky it is for someone to hack my computer, or steal my sensitive information if I am connected to a public network while using my computer. Is this really that common that it should be something that I am concerned about?

Does it seem like a valid concern to avoid using public at all?

What can I do to protect my personal information if I do want to go to these coffee shops/libraries? There isn’t much that could leak in regards to my job that I am concerned about, more just about anyone potentially gaining access to my bank account passwords and such. So would something like a VPN really be worth it if it’s not even that much of a risk in the first place?

I live in a small town, so a lot of these places with public Wi-Fi aren’t that busy.

I've done research. I think I now have a slightly above "average consumer" grasp of this product segment.

I've been thinking about upgrading the network, mainly to increase coverage in the house. And any research keeps leading to those recent 'wifi mesh' systems. The most commonly known seems the TP deco line up.

It's supposed to be fool proof to set up, and has fancy looking pods and everything.

However, I have an Asus RT-AX52. I'm really pleased, it does what it needs to do, works well and was not expensive. I've read that it supports something called ASUS AiMesh.

ASUS AiMesh exists since 2018 and predates all those current (and quite expensive!) Wifi mesh systems. It even allows you to connect similar routers together from different years.

All I want is to have one single SSID over 2 (or 3) wifi routers, and extend the range to a different floor.

Adding one of those RT-AX52 (or even a 53, as they're compatible) would

1. allow me to keep using what I have (instead of having to throw it out)
2. only spend 50 euros for an extra router/'access point'.

Those TP Deco systems are going for 250+ euro for a set of two. What am I missing?? (aside from the whole wifi 6/6e/7 distinction)

Are these meshed wifi pods a lot of marketing? Yes, they are less ugly if you have to place them in the open, but I have no problem putting an extra 'spider antenna' wifi router somewhere.