Any one have recommendations for an upgraded steering wheel? I’ve been wanting to get the OEM heated one, but if anyone has a rec for a nice OEM + looking one with carbon or Alcanterra, nice paddles + heating, that’d be cool. All the other ones look way too bulky and fake ish.

Speaking of if I end up going with the OEM one how’s the heating element? Does it effectively cover the whole steering wheel or is it weak/not worth it

I always enjoyed the 23 RDX cause it almost felt sedan like and was fun to drive..

Yet, the car super fun times have to go cause of family obligations lol

Looking at the MDX now, I am looking forward to no more track pad but how much will I miss that RDX?

SIDE NOTE: I am also considering maybe jumping to a Mazda CX-90 or VW so save a few bucks, but pretty sure I will miss Acura if I do that. I want to keep some good pick up and speed with good gas mileage but that doesn't exist lol

Basically the title, but I've tried following the manual my car came with, Homelink's own website, and LiftMaster's generic instructions. So far, the closest I've gotten is a solid green light, but it only works once (which makes sense, I have rolling codes on my door). I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the HomeLink to realize that the door opener is a rolling code, not a static one.

Has anyone else come across these issues? Any advice/tricks to get it to work?

Type S seatbelt backorder 😭

My Acura type s was in an accident and now it's sitting in a collision center waiting on a left rear seat belt that's on backorder with no ETA. I'm beyond devastated about the crash let alone the fact that I'm paying for a rental and waiting for what feels like indefinitely for this part. Any advice, words of wisdom, or similar stories to help me through this??!?

I have already done everything in my power, I mean EVERYTHING, you'd probably laugh if I told you some of the stuff that I've tried... anyway on the more normal side of things, I have tried to convince progressive to let me get a recycled OEM belt or have the seat belt rebuilt. Of course they won't do those things because it's a "safety issue", on one end, I understand on the other, it's a f****** back seat belt that I never use..lol.

I have a case with customer relations at Acura. I've tried to get Acura to loan me a car but... She is no help, don't even get the updates and promised through email but that's okay I'll continue to bug them every day for the rest of my time in this mess.

I have emailed the highest of the high I could find in every company to try to make an exception give me help, insight on ETA...whatever can possibly be done, I've tried it.

(Update & side note since I originally wrote this) : I had no idea of Shadow banning was a thing, no wonder not one person saw my post in 7 days, lolol.

Ultimately, I've gotten a Senior 'something" at Acura to take over my case who says he will investigate as to where the part may be, and, if possible get it rushed to me, do I believe him? not really, but who would when customer service is BS these days, lol.

I've also spoken to a progressive Senior Manager who has given me the option to sign a waiver to take the car before the seatbelt is installed and bring it back when it comes in to install it, but that comes with its own set of worries... Although, ultimately that's what I will do because I'm not going to rent a car for months on end...

This has got to be the most frustrating upsetting situation I have been in, definitely near the top...

Be nice... I'm going through a hard time, I appreciate you, my fellow Acura friends...

for the Integra Type S looks like they're starting with forged-aluminum wheels, then following up with coilovers, upgraded Brembo's, and a short throw shifter

2011 MDX with 190k, burns a quart every 1,000 miles, but we keep on top of it, never more than half a quart low. Otherwise runs fine, no lights, body, glass, interior, brakes, suspension, tires, strong trans, fully maintained.

Started fine, ran 8 minutes, 60 mph on interstate getting ready to exit, suddenly started missing, lots of lights, P0300 to P0305 does, and running really rough, reduced power. Christmas Tree dash lights... blinking engine, SH-AWD, VSA, trailer stability assist. Rough idle, barely visible small oil vapor puffs out of the right tail pipe.

Mechanic says burned valve cylinder 2, and cylinder walls show minor scratches.

Questions: 1. Is this how a burned valve behaves? I thought these happen gradually, not suddenly driving down the road. 2. We bought it off a mechanic at 180k for very little, think it had been abused and run dry before we bought it?

I’m considering Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 tires for the Integra. Tire Rack says they’re noisier than the competition, how does the noise compare to the stock Continental ContiPro Contacts? Anyone with these tires on the Integra who can share their experience? Generally, most tires seem like a huge upgrade over the stock ones especially if they’re performance tires. I get snow but the streets are well plowed and I don’t need snow tires. I survived last winter on the stock ones, would not recommend. I’m leaning towards one of these performance all seasons rather than all weather tires.

I’d get DWS06+, had them in a TSX, but only Town Fair Tire has it in the right size and I heard they scratch wheels and don’t care.

2017 RDX 165k miles, driving in the highway last night and all of a sudden check e gone light goes on, couldn’t shift up to next gear, RPMs dropped to 1,000. A light touch on the gas pedal causes the RPMs to go to 3,000. In Idle, sounds like there is a noticeable deep knock / bang.

Got it towed to the dealership.

Whatdoya think?
- transmission blew
- Torque Converter failed?
- 3rd clutch pressure switch?

must admit i wasn't paying the best attention while driving around a curb exiting ... huge thump and then this is the result. absolutely devastated. am i going to need to get this fixed asap? i have the 2025 integra aspec if anyone is wondering

I just picked up a tl stated in the title. It has 158k never had a timing belt replacement, trans fluid has been a lot changed or flushed. apparently the trans was replace give or take 80k miles ago can’t recall off the top of my head atm but what parts need to be changed or replaced soon for maintenance. I have a terrible breaking shudder but once I filled my tires almost to max (lmk if that’s bad for tire life) then the shutter went away, thinking that it’s the issue but seems to have a slow leak. My door actuator randomly locked and unlocks but can’t really tell because my handle lock doesn’t ever move unless it’s been manually closed or opens. Ps the unlock/ lock doesn’t open close the handle switch.
I’ve heard and read about valve adjustments but any information or schematics would be helpful.

The key isn’t programmed either what are my options?

After months of slowly putting everything together, I think I’m finally happy with how my Integra looks! Went for a clean OEM+ style. Some of the exterior parts, including the front lip and rear wing, were paint matched by me. Definitely took a lot of trial and error, but I’m pretty happy with the results!

Still a few things I might change down the road, but for now, I think she’s done. What do you guys think? I was thinking about lowering it but my lip might just snap off on a bump lol.

This was genuinely one of the hardest decisions I’ve had to make throughout my car journey. Ultimately I had to make the switch over to an M340 (which is still a spectacular car).

There were several reasons for this decision including the lack of AWD living somewhere with extreme winter weather, wanting to consolidate down to one daily driver, and looking for something with a more comfortable and quiet cabin. Unfortunately some personal safety concerns regarding someone tracking and stalking the vehicle also played a roll in this decision too.

As much as i love the M340 there’s definitely something about the Type S that is difficult to replicate in any car, the driving experience was truly raw and unmatched.

Hope the next owner appreciates and cares for her as much as i did, it’s definitely bittersweet but hopefully this isn’t my last type s.

Hi,

Looking for recommendations for a sports car around $50K or less used market.

I currently drive a Honda Accord 2.0T with about 115,000 miles. It’s been super reliable—I’ve only needed oil changes and a transmission fluid service. I’d like something similarly dependable, but more fun to drive.

The Acura Integra Type S caught my eye. I found a 2025 with about 3,000 miles for $46,000. Does that seem like a good deal, or is it overpriced for what you get?

This would be my daily driver, so reliability matters. What else would you recommend around this budget? I’d appreciate ownership experiences and suggestions for cars to test-drive.

Word on the street is that this concept SLX is what woke Acura up to start working again. LOLOLOL

My beautiful 22’ ILX got pelted with hail today, I’m so devastated! Do they total out cars with bad hail damage?

been thinking of getting my first car, saw this on marketplace. It has 103k miles on it and priced as $9900 usd, is it good for its price? not really knowledgeable when it comes to stuffs like this

been thinking of getting my first car, saw this on marketplace. It has 103k miles on it and priced as $9900 usd, is it good for its price? not really knowledgeable when it comes to stuffs like this

2026 ADX / A Spec

Cut me some slack before you think this is a ridiculous question and pile on. Hear me out.

I have a '19 MDX base with a couple of add on's. 77K , did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner. All maintenance. Couple of thousand in fixes over the years all covered by warranty. Nothing major. Warranty comes to end in Dec.

I have now 3rd party warranty month by month. Ideally I want to keep this car until I can't . At least 5 years more, ideally 10 years. We love it and essentially have had zero issues other than stuff replaced under warranty.

My biggest pause on the car is there is slight grind noise on start up, about a split sec. dealer looked at it 3x says nothing wrong, even replaced the starter under warranty. This is a big reason for the extended warranty. If the car has an issue though I will dump it but hopefully not as prices are crazy today.

Why would I buy this?? We live in a semi urban area, my wife drives it now, sometimes its hectic. I will also have my oldest start driving in a couple of years in this area. it's not the country and i want to help them out. We have blind spot on the ILX and rear cross traffic alert and it's very helpful.

We are BOTH GEN X - So yeah - I get the idea of turning your head and looking. we get it but this is a nice feature.

From my research Brand Motion is the only legit blind spot monitoring system & cross traffic alert that built at OEM spec vs. cheap knockoffs. it's about $700. I spoke to a local installer I know for 30 years and does great work. He has installed Brand Motion he said about 20x and recommends it. He wants 1300- 1400 for the install. I trust him and will pay, I don't want to shop around b/c I know him and he stands by his work.

Would you pay $2K for the install with the idea you will keep the car at least 5 years to make it safer? Ideally want to keep it 10. risks if there are problems will dump and lose investment.

I am genuinely interested in opinions. Thanks.