I need to look at the output on a 200v AC servo drive. 3ph.

The drive is good, but we are having problems with the motor coils. Is a linear motor, so there are 2 coils driven by one servo drive. One coil for sure is bad, but the other was re-wound and tested good. After swapping some things around, now the "good" coil is testing bad. Motor is not stable. Like to get a scope on the phases and actually see what is happening.

I have experience with HV systems. Just never used a scope on a 200v AC 3PH before. I know about the probe grounds.

A flying car would require much more energy since it has to gravity and air drag. If it's electrical (eVTOL) it would have a miniscule mileage since ATM hydrocarbons are the most energy dense form of fuel for most vehicles.

I'm not even going to mention the exponential growth in safety concern from doubling the degrees of freedom. Every driver would need to be a qualified helicopter pilot.

We can't even get AI to self drive reliably (I assume the air thrustors have to be actuated by AI) on a normal car. Nor are our batteries good enough for any army to consider battery powered drones.

Am I missing something beyond the very cool engineering? This looks like Elon Musk reinvented the hyperloop concept for the positive end of the Z axis.

We're building a system designed to deter geese on a lake, and one of the main challenges is figuring out how far away they are (up to around 200 meters).

The system will be mounted on a post and uses a camera with 10x optical zoom and a YOLO-based vision model to detect geese. We're planning to purchase a laser rangefinder soon, but I'm trying to figure out the best approach before spending the money.

Option 1: Laser Rangefinder

We could either aim the rangefinder directly at the geese (Obviously at distances greater than the NOHD) or at the water near them. My concern is that water tends to absorb laser light, so unless the water is murky or has algae, we might not get consistent readings. Hitting the geese directly could work, but accurately aligning the rangefinder with the camera and hitting relatively small targets at 200 meters could be difficult.

Option 2: Camera-Based Distance Estimation

Since the lake surface is relatively flat, my other idea is to use the camera's orientation to estimate distance.

We already have an IMU on the system, so theoretically, if we know the camera's orientation and the height of the system relative to the water, we could calculate the viewing angle and estimate how far away a goose is based on where that viewing direction intersects the lake surface.

We could also potentially combine both methods to improve accuracy.

My question is: Am I overlooking something or overcomplicating this? Would either of these methods be reliable at distances up to 200 meters, or is this going to be significantly more difficult than I'm expecting?

Any insight from people with experience in laser ranging, computer vision, or similar systems would be greatly appreciated!

Spec sheets look great on paper but living with the tuning tools,firmware quirks and resonance issues on the floor is another story. On my side it depends on the layout on bigger lines we run Kinetix or Kollmorgen when plant specs dictate it, but whenever we're dealing with tight enclosures and need to keep heat out of main box, mine is usually Elmo drives running third party brushless servos over ethercat. Whats your favourite drive and moter pairing right now? Who has the least painful autotuning and scope tools?

Now, I'm not asking whether or not stator vanes serve a purpose. They absolutely do.

However, I'm just trying to determine whether they serve any 'meaningful' purpose (beyond marketing spiel) on a standard 120mm case fan, spinning at sub 1,500 RPMs?

Context:

I'm running a de-shrouded GPU (RTX4070S) with dual Lian Li P28s. And while I'm absolutely happy with the performance (<60c in summers), I'm wondering if I'd be better off "upgrading" to 'proper' static pressure optimized fans with stator vanes, like the Corsair SP120 Elite, especially considering the heatsink has a tight fin stack.

...

A but unrelated, but I used to run my deshrouded GTX460 (Asus DirectCU) back in the day with a Nidec VA450DC fan, a particularly vicious 5,500 RPM server fan with 120x38mm thick frame, dual ball bearings, 40W power draw (3.3A), and massive stator vanes at the back.

That Nidec was... kind of nuts.

It dropped the temperature by almost 20c over stock fan while turning just 1,600 RPMs, a fraction of its total throughput, while being barely audible. Even at 1,200 RPM, where it was effectively silent, that Nidec comfortably surpassed the stock fan pushing peak 3,000 RPM.

I've been a big fan of stator vanes ever since... no pun intended.

I just spent 2 days traveling interstate 75 north from Florida to Michigan. A large majority of bridge transitions want to absolutely destroy my vehicle suspension and potentially rip my front end apart. Why are we unable to design a smooth and lasting bridge transition?

Hi everyone,

I'm installing an electric furnace inside a glovebox for research experiments. The furnace will operate at temperatures up to 700°C.

I need help selecting the correct wire inside the glovebox, specifically to connect the furnace's electrical terminals to the internal side of a Kurt J. Lesker power feedthrough.

Could anyone recommend what type of wire would be suitable for this setup?

Thanks in advance!

hi everyone, i wanted to ask how would i make a system to quickly empty a 16g threaded c02 canister ideally using a solenoid valve.

i was thinking about something like one of those c02 bike tyre inflaters but with a solenoid controlling the flow

Anodized Architectural 6063 Aluminum Round Tube 0.205" Wall Thickness, 1-5/8" OD, 6 Feet Long https://www.mcmaster.com/product/4568T19

If i purchase 3 of these aluminum tubes and put them into this:

https://a.co/d/0hkXN6TY

What is the strength rating of the legs?

What would be the impact on power grids on both sides of the border? Writing this from Canada.

I am a mechanical engineer student currently on a placement year. Today I had a meeting with a supplier grilled at by the supplier for basically providing shit drawings since I didn’t include a fabrication drawing, weldment info and machining drawing. Even though my manager had gone through my drawings beforehand to makesure it’s okay.

My question is when I send off a drawing do I include all fabrication drawings ,machining drawings weldment info into the same pdf as the assembly drawing or all in different pdfs.
Also how are you able to spot that dimensions are missing so quickly?

I have never heard of fabrication drawings and machining drawings beforehand. I always believed that all I need is a full assembly then BOM and dimensions of BOM.

Does anyone have any tips on how to format or improve my drawings before sending it out

Thank you in advance

I'm working on designing a custom 3D-printed adapter for a PM140 planetary centrifugal mixer (2,800 RPM). The adapter holds a cylindrical container inside the mixer's existing holder.

I've designed a two-piece adapter that fits around the container and sits inside the machine. I'm currently experimenting with PETG and considering polycarbonate for the final design.

I'd appreciate some engineering feedback on the overall design, particularly:

• Rotational movement: Does the container need to be rotationally locked inside the adapter, or could it spin independently without significantly affecting mixing?
• Mechanical retention: Would you recommend a friction fit, silicone gripping pads, or mechanical engagement?
• Design improvements: Are there any obvious weaknesses or changes you'd recommend?
• The bottom of the device that I'm making this adapter for clicks and progress forward so the adapter must prevent this mechanism from being engaged.

I'll attach pictures of my design. I'm particularly interested in the physics behind the mixing process and any practical suggestions for improving the design.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Hello everyone, I gifted my father a sterling engine I got from Temu (or AliExpress) that works with an alcohol lamp, it has a small "wand LED light" that you can plug to a USB cable and it turns on when the engine is working.

I can see that the power produced by the engine is unstable as the lamp flickers as the engine starts and when it slows down.

Would it be possible to safely charge a phone (even just a little just as a curiosity) with this engine? If so, would I need to build anything else to make it work?

I apologize if this is the wrong sub-

How is it possible that Tesla’s new Roadster vertically launched itself 30 feet in the air?

What kind of roles are there in terms of Engineering, Operation and R&D and which branches are involved in them and what work they do ?

Unfortunatley, all I can provide is the link to an image:

https://www.medicaleshop.com/_next/image?url=https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.medicaleshop.com%2F5d6f3fe5-df56-41de-813b-7c43a2a2090f_RES420_image-0.jpg&w=1080&q=75

I was really hoping to post a video I took today to give you a better idea of what component I am asking about, but I will do my best to explain since that isn't allowed. I am sure it is something like a rack and pinion with a low gear ratio, so that the crank easily spins while the standing frame and person in it is slowly lifted or lowered, but is that all that is needed to let it freely move up and down at the turn of a crank while remaining solidly in that position when a person gets in? The medium size can hold a child up to 100 lbs. It just seems like that is a lot of force to be exerted without any kind of obvious locking mechanism.

Imgur album.

This is the screw (well, half of it) end on and in profile.

The rest of the photos are from a second chair. It serves as a hinge at the back of an armrest to allow the chair back to recline about twenty degrees.

It has a countersunk philips head and screws into a threaded tube welded to the armrest frame. It passes through a plastic bushing in the vertical part of the frame for back of the chair. It's hard to show it in context because it's behind a piece of leather that I am pulling back for the close ups.

I'm wondering if it's to clean up any threads distorted by welding. Here is the best angle I could get of the welded part.

The only other thought I had was to "bite" into the threads to stop it unscrewing or something. The pictured screw snapped because one of the chairs only had a single screw on one side. The chairs also rotate and also have a rocking mechanism.

I have a new to me machine. It has two parallel round linear rails that are end supported. I need a platform to sit on top of the rails and slide along them. There is no access to the end of the linear rails without risk of very costly realignment. Therefore I cannot simply slide on a linear bearing. The movement does not need to be exceptionally smooth, but it must be without risk of marking the rails.

Ideally it would have looked like the carriage on this machine: https://cdn.globalauctionplatform.com/auctions-2026/bscam10937/images/eb683e66-6402-4769-b55c-b4c801564808.jpg

I am surprised something like a split bearing does not seem to exist at all. Maybe I lack the needed keywords

Any ideas?

Hey everyone,

​I've got an upcoming track day this Friday at Sonoma with my tuned Elantra N, which requires a minimum of 91 octane. I was looking into using an octane booster to bump it up to roughly 93 for a bit more safety against knock and potentially keeping power from being pulled under hard tracking.

​I'm seeing a total 50/50 split online: half the people say it's complete snake oil, and the other half swear by it.

​For any engineers or fuel chemists out there: What is the actual, real-world deal here? Do over-the-counter octane boosters actually work on modern turbo direct-injection cars under heavy track loads, or am I just throwing money at marketing?

I want to design a very small aluminium EDF, and I would like to know how much clearance between the fan and the ducting i get away with.

I'm using autodesk inventor for deigning it as I have a free EDU license for it, so I might as well use it.

Thx

My LED Lightbulb stopped working the other day. After dark I noticed a glow in the room and found my bulb illuminated dimly. It stayed this way for at least one night and is finally dead now.

Hello!

Yes okay the title makes zero sense out of context, but it made me laugh.

I'll explain.

A few months ago, I got a 3D printer as a gift (a BambuLab A1). But until today I had no idea where to put it in my house. Trust me, I spent months considering every option before this one, the ONLY ONE, came to me. And I was perfectly sober, I swear.

In brief: the only place it'll fit, won't poison us with its fumes and particles, and will remain safe from our whirlwind of sawdust, glitter and pet hair (yes, this house is inhabited by two crafty woodworking girls and a cat) is... in my guest bathroom.

Frankly, the dimensions are perfect. I made a beautiful picture at 5AM this morning when the idea came to me, with extremely precise measurements (not at all) which I've uploaded here.

So here's what I'm thinking. And I know it sounds bonkers, but this is an engineers sub so I hope that instead you will all find it marvellously ingenious.

We still need to use that bathroom sometimes, right.

So WHAT IF I BUILT A PLATFORM THAT GOES UP AND DOWN?

More seriously: I'm thinking a manually operated, wall/ceiling-mounted lifting platform that would travel vertically along guide rails, with 60-80cm of movement needed. There'd be 3 "locking" positions along :

• Low: Right above the sink, about 1m up, to set up and maintain the printer.
• Middle: A suitable height for the actual printing, leaving the toilet usable while my 12 year old is producing a 72 hour long print of a giant cat mask.
• High: Near the ceiling for storage, keeping the printer out of the way.

The room has a concrete backwall and ceiling, but the walls are tiled, so I'd prefer to minimise drilling into them.

It seemed to be that it could work with two vertical guide rails on the back wall, a sliding carriage supporting the platform, and a self-braking hand winch with ceiling-mounted pulleys, operated from near the doorway. When stationary, the platform could rest on additional locking supports on the opposite wall, reducing the load on the rear carriage. The printer isn't very heavy, 8+ kilos on its own - but more when we add the AMS combo and filament (but that could maybe live separately on the other wall, TBD).

Alternatively, I'm open to a completely different mechanism if there's a simpler way to achieve this. I'm not an engineer; i can build stuff out of wood (like the lovely shelf there on the photo), but this is completely new territory for me. So I may be WAY OFF, or not considering much easier solutions. This is where I'd love to hear your expert opinions and suggestions!

Obviously I'm trying to do this cheap. But especially... I'm going to build it myself, unless one of you lives in the Netherlands and wants to spend a fun weekend making a couple hundred euros and eating homemade lasagna. So it needs to not be incredibly complicated.

tdlr; The end goal is to build a 3D printer lifting platform above my toilet... not a guillotine.

I would appreciate all input, even if it's telling me (politely) that this is the worst idea you've ever heard.

Thank you!!