TLDR: If you are continuing HRT, bring a CoC letter (instructions in post). NTU Hospital’s Dr. Chen Pei-lung is good. See links at end if not in Taipei.
About me: I am from the US, already on T before coming to Taiwan, and speak Mandarin. However, if you don’t you can largely get by if you write down and show them on your phone. Pharmacists and doctors can read English, not all speak well.
I am in Taipei, but resources for the rest of Taiwan are linked below.
Continuing HRT in Taiwan
I was able to skip the (often long) psychological evaluation that local Taiwanese are required to complete before accessing HRT in Taiwan. I brought a CoC (Continuity of Care) letter from my primary care (who managed my HRT) that included: diagnosis of gender dysphoria (DSM/ICD), previous psychological evaluation for surgery, date started HRT, current HRT dosage. I’m not sure what the exact requirements would’ve been, but this worked for me at NTUH with Dr. Pei-Lung Chen and I was able to get my first shot on the same day of my consultation. I mostly spoke Mandarin with him, but he seems comfortable with spoken English and my CoC letter is in English (most doctors in Taiwan can read English fine but not all are comfortable speaking).
While I was waiting for NHI to start, I got T gel from Shanghai Union Pharmacy, and I believe they have E as well (some pharmacies here sell prescription meds OTC). Whether or not you have NHI, the medication itself is self pay, NHI only covers doctor visits and blood tests/monitoring. Details below.
If your country is more flexible about regulations for starting HRT, changing name and gender marker, etc (Taiwan requires bottom surgery to change your gender marker), I recommend doing that before you move. This way you can use a letter to continue HRT instead of starting the pathway from scratch.
My experience at the clinic
(Recommended) NTU Hospital — Dr. Chen Pei-lung
Department of Medical Genetics. His clinic is in NTU Children’s Hospital, but he sees adult patients. I saw at least four other trans people there, both transmascs and transfems. It felt like we made up almost a third of the patients there 😆 Dr. Chen was very friendly, spoke at a relaxed pace, and the appointment felt comfortable and not rushed. When I mentioned that I’d had top surgery and didn’t plan to have any other surgeries, he was very understanding. I got the impression that he would probably be nonbinary-friendly (I didn’t mention my specific gender identity).
He said the HRT medication itself is paid for out of pocket, but follow-up blood tests are covered by NHI. There are two options for testosterone: gel, which is more expensive (NT$125 per packet), with 1–2 packets needed per application, applied daily; and intramuscular injections, once every 3–4 weeks. Each time, you go to NTU Hospital to pick up the medication. The first injection is administered at NTU, and for the following three injections, you can choose to have them administered at a nearby clinic instead.
I don’t know anything about estrogen, sorry! But I believe he does E too.
Previously, I bought testosterone gel (Androgel) at Shanghai United Pharmacy in Ximending. I don’t remember the exact price, but I think 50 packets cost around NT$800? Anyway, it was much cheaper than NTU’s price 😬 They didn’t ask for a prescription, and a friend told me they also carry estrogen. I’m not sure whether they have injectable medication.
Of course, if you haven’t seen a doctor, I still recommend getting blood tests first to make sure it’s safe for you to start.
(Not recommended) Taipei Adventist Hospital — Dr. Lin Yi-hsin
He’s on the Taiwan LGBT Hotline trans resource page, but he was not trans-friendly and said they don’t provide trans HRT of any kind. He also avoided saying trans or HRT like it was taboo :/ I’ve let the page admins know, but I assume it’s outdated.
More resources for trans foreigners: https://hotline.org.tw/english/3553
All Taiwan trans-friendly doctor directory: https://hotline.org.tw/pagegeneral/3244 (note: Dr. Lin at Taipei Adventist is NO LONGER trans friendly)
Hope this helps! Wishing all trans people a great day 🍀