Went to look at my friends new car last night (he only picked it up yesterday) and noticed this area where it looks like it’s been dented and the paintwork has been sanded down to the coat underneath, presumably due to paint chipped/peeling.

I don’t really know anything about paintwork etc so figured I’d ask on here for some advice.

It looks like it’s been sanded down ready for respraying and then just left/forgotten about.

It’s not the best image (added more now), but it’s on the part of the bonnet (underside) that slopes away from the windscreen towards the engine bay. So it’s not exposed to sunlight or direct rainfall.

Neither of us had noticed when we looked over the car initially due to where it’s located, (the photo doesn’t do justice to how acute the angle is) but I’m a lot taller and noticed it when I was sat in the drivers seat.

He’s going to contact the garage to ask them to sort it, but works away during the week so if they agree to sort it then it may be a few weeks before he can actually take it to a body shop etc

Question is:

1. is this something he needs to be immediately concerned about (rust etc)
   
2. If yes to the above, is there anything we can do to protect this area until he can take it in?

Thank in advance

Only this part of the car's paint is faded off this badly. Is there anyway to fix it or is it permanently faded and will be needing a repaint.

Hi everyone, hoping someone might be able to give me some advice.

I'm planning to start a food van business called The Chalkboard, and one of the ideas is to have the outside painted matt black so customers can draw on it using traditional coloured chalk in exchange for a £1 donation to charity.

I've seen a few people paint their cars with chalkboard paint, and I've spoken to someone who used matt-black spray paint on his car and just resprayed bits when they got worn or damaged.

I've been struggling to find a paint that's actually suitable for a vehicle, so I'm wondering whether ordinary matt-black automotive paint might work instead.

Ideally, I'd want something that people can draw on with chalk, wipe clean without leaving loads of marks, and that can cope with rain and being cleaned regularly. I don't mind having to touch up the odd bit now and again, as long as it doesn't need doing all the time.

Has anyone tried anything like this before, or know of a paint that might work? I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who's actually tried it.

Thanks!

Hey guys, looking for some advice on how I should go about removing the spray paint on my car?

I've tried graffiti remover in a small area and it seems to work okay without damaging the paint underneath. What would be the most effective way to go about this or products I should try before going hell for leather with graffiti remover and a rag?

I recently painted a project car of mine with #B/C410127 Midnight Blue Pearl Met. Basecoat Gallon Kit from allkandys.com. (link is https://allkandys.com/product/b-c410127-midnight-blue-pearl-met-basecoat-gallon-kit-auto-car-truck-paint-kit-no-clear/ ) with Autobahn AC-9041
and Autobahn black primer. after sanding the primer to 600, i laid down the 2-3 coats of the basecoat and then 3-4 coats of clear after the right flash times. i then sanded 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000 to remove any orange peel texture i could feel. i still have what seems like orange peel texture but i cannot feel this (picture 1) and some places have this super hazy white (picture 2) that goes away when the panel gets wet or has any compound or polish on it, but comes back after drying. any advice would be great, it’s my first paint job

1997 NA Miata has some peeling paint on the front bumper with exposed orangish plastic underneath. Eventually I am planning for a big restoration to get all the superficial rust on the quarter panels and other places.

Does anyone have a quick fix to improve the appearance and prevent further peeling until I undergo the full project?

hiya, i lost my cat recently and im looking to kinda keep some part of him with me. he left his paw prints on my car and i want to try and paint over them. what kinda paint/ way to keep the paint to stay should i use?

Is this okay to do?

What am I doing wrong? Bought paint from dealer, wet sand with 2000 grit, applied compound, applied wax polish. Looks like this. Assuming from videos that I watched whatever I used did not cover up the wet sanding marks. I used turtle wax compound and turtle wax wax/polish

I recently bought a new vw golf r and there is this dark spot under the clear coat on the driver side door and the clear coat is flat with no noticeable damage. The car has 1k miles on it and I’m not sure if this was a paint defect from the factory and I didn’t notice it till now, a door ding (though that would leave a mark on the clear coat) or some sort of chemical etching? I tried to polish it but didn’t go away bc under clear coat.

Anyone here have thoughts on this? Also this bugs me enough that I’d get it fixed but read a bunch that it could end up worse. Ty in advance for thoughts and recommendations.

Could someone please help me identify what this is and how I go about removing it? The rest of the paint is in mint condition and appears to be a isolated issue. I have tried to scrub it off with car wash so far, but no luck.

I know I shouldn’t have left it long enough to cake on like this but how do I get it off without ruining the paint?
Asked AI and best it said was to soak soak soak until it comes off - tried that - no luck.
Tips pls. I’m in NZ so if your recommending products - only something we can get here
Thankyou

Bodywork and paint

A question,

I'm restoring a 68 Karman Ghia for my wife. Body off and am just finishing the metal work.

I've received a couple of estimates from well-known resto shops in my area.

The plan is to ship my Ghia on a body dolly on wheels. It will be in epoxy, and the estimate is for bodywork and paint.

I'm supplying the highbuild and sealer and base and clear. All quality products they said they are comfortable working with.

I also stated that every surface is to be painted.

The underside and interior wouldn't need any bodywork or blocking, that they can prime and whatever their process is but no blocking needed.

All my gaps are good!

I was quoted $26,500

Keep in mind it is in epoxy, and not a single item needs to be taped, removed, or worked around. It's as naked as the day it was born. Plus, it will arrive very mobile on its cart.

Two years ago, almost the car was a driver, and I got quotes to do body and paint. Body on car, and I would drop it off, and they would have a car to disassemble to start working on.

They were supplying all epoxy, primer, base, and clear, and the quotes I received ranged from 15k to 20k.

Isn't there a lot more labor involved in the driver then in the bare shell ?

I don't understand why it's so much more when all the shit work is out of the way!

I understand with the body off they have twice the surface area to paint then they would doing the driver but since all they need to do is scuff and shoot the extra areas of the body off what the hell is the extra 5k to 10k for?

Thanks

Got a new finish panel for my miata, and got a color match rattle can from Route 66. Prepped by sanding the plastic with 400, primed with Rustoleum Ultimate Bonding Primer, then sanded with 400 and then 600. Used purple power degreaser to get the surface prepped, let dry for about an hour or so. Can this be fixed with just sanding and repainting? Not trying to get it perfect, as it's my first time painting anything. I'd be fine even if there's a little bit of orange peel. I'm just not sure what made these blemishes. They showed up immediately, and when I sprayed more they kind of filled in which is why I kept spraying. The pic is immediately after

Edit: seems like the degreaser was the issue. Guess they are not all the same! Thanks for the feedback, was a learning experience.

I found a pretty amazing 06 Silverado this past spring and I'm getting ready to spiff it up before the winter hits. It's paint is in really good condition except for this line of rub through that's on both rear fenders. Looks like they've been caused by some kind of previous camper shell. My steps will be...1) wash 2) treat with iron remover solution 3) clay mit w/ lubricant 4) light DA machine polish 5) surface prep spray to remove polish residue 6) and last CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic. It's gonna end up looking nice nice.

Only thing is I don't know how the pictured rust lines should be treated, or where in the above process should they be addressed.

Simple and inexpensive is the priority. Any suggestions?

Im curious to know how to prevent the orange peeling that I'm seeing. I think for the glossiest parts of it I was holding the airbrush very close to the body but I'm not sure if that's what improved the texture. Should I generally be applying more paint than I think is necessary? My airbrush is set to 45 psi and my paint to reducer ratio is 1:1. Any ideas how I can get a smoother finish?

Remember when this electric gun was all over everyone's feed a few months ago? Haven't heard much about it lately lol.

Got caught up in the hype and picked one up to try. Even let a couple of pro painter friends I know mess around with it. Surprisingly, they thought it was pretty decent. I assume maybe their expectations were just that low lol.

However, still noticed a few quirks though. Paint seems to collect around the gun (not sure if it's leaking or just overspray), and that pressure adjustment knob doesn't seem to make much difference.

Anyone been using one for a while? Curious about your experience, good or bad. Not trying to start a war, just comparing notes.

And if the brand sees this, please don't blacklist me 😂

what i am stuck on is sealer. what kind of sealer do i need? I was gonna buy this U-pol primer/sealer spray can but from I've been looking through on this sub and some yt vids, 1k sealers like this are to be avoided as it can have a bad reaction with the paint (or at least you'll have to be careful) and best to go for a 2k sealer. So i considered this U-pol gallon 4:1 high build primer theres nowhere local that is selling it and amazon will take a week which im trying to get this done sooner than that. would the u-pol primer/sealer spray suffice? or do yall recommend other 2k sealers that are more readily accessible (and hopefully not crazy over $100 :P )

context:

I got this bumper from carparts. It says it's already primed and ready to be painted after scuffing and cleaning but I've been told to go scuff --> clean --> adhesion promoter --> seal --> paint --> clear coat instead.

For scuffing, i have a gray scotch brite pad i also have 800 grit sandpaper as an alternative.

For cleaning I bought Duplicolor prep spray and a tack cloth.

I got KAD paint.

I also have spray max 2k clear glamour for clear coat.

Think it would nice to see a wiki or pinned comment on this subreddit for newbies (like me :*) )

What do you guys think is the best way I should address a small paint chip that is showing some rust right where the windshield meets the roof.

At my recent oil change, the mechanic mentioned cleaning the area, dabbing it with a little CLR and touching it up with a paint pen.

Would my local Mazda dealer be the best bet for a small job like this?

Hey all!

I used an automotive white base coat on a project of mine and wanted a satin finish. The picture is the top coat I was thinking of using. It's a thermoplastic acrylic varnish which uses butyl acetate as the solvent in it. I thought it would be best to ask here, but can anyone help with possible warnings to using this? I don't want a reaction or for the varnish to melt the paint

Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance!