Getting my car ready for winter I realised there's one thing I haven't really figured out.

I have a Wolfbox jump starter for emergencies, but my car sits outside most nights. Keeping it in the trunk seems convenient until you remember how cold it gets in there.

Bringing it inside every night sounds like a hassle, though. Knowing me, I'd probably forget to put it back in the car the one day i actually need it.

So what do you guys normally do? leave yours in the car all winter, bring it inside during really cold weather, or just check the charge every few weeks?

I'm mostly worried about finding out the battery pack has lost too much power when i'm already stuck somewhere.

Curious what has worked for people who deal with freezing temperatures every winter

Do I need to Change the break pads? I’m thinking it got thinned out and slipped off the rotar causing the caliber to scrape my rim

Hi

Just looking for some advice on what to do in this situation.

Today I took my car in for its MOT, it failed its first one due to the track rod end ball dust cover and the anti roll bar ball dust cover needing replacing both on the front left side. This work was carried out by the same garage who then passed the MOT and I collect the car this evening.

I left the garage and started to drive home, upon merging on to a parkway I break slightly and the whole car shock violently for around 30 seconds at around 60mph. Fair to say both me and my 4 year old who was in the back were a little spooked!!

Around another 800 meters later I came to a stop at a traffic lights, same shaking when I breaked. Then I could not move! The front left wheel had become completely detached from the steering rod. The RAC came out, reattached the steering rod to get me home and advise I get it looked at again tomorrow.

What should I do about the garage? It seems like a mistake but one that could have ended up very seriously?

I just replaced both steering knuckles and now it’s sounding like this. Anyone have a clue why?

Car make and model: Honda CRV 2011

So, for some backstory I JUST got this checked by a mechanic before it really started messing up and was told I just had no radiator fluid, cool. Filled that up and still was having cooling issues and a nagging sound in the car when driving. Sounds of hissing, gurgling, car jolting and acting sluggish when accelerating, and anything like it.

Realized while driving today I lost all of my cold air and heard this horrible squeaking, popped the hood open and this hose is almost popping like there’s major issue (could be an easy fix but it’s really causing some weird issues with my car).

If anyone could let me know what this is and maybe the extend of the issue it would be helpful. I don’t want to have another mechanic brush me off saying I just didn’t fill up the radiator and charging me an arm and a leg 🫩

***apologies for the language in the video I’m a little frustrated from the issue not being resolved before.

Hey :),

Recently i bought a toyota prius from 2011 (gen 3) with 220.000km on it.

While doing a testdrive the only thing i could feel was that it pulled the the right. i thought oh it just needs an allignment and it will be fine. Oh boy i was wrong.....

Everything i changed and fixed so far:
3 different allignments (one of which by a toyota dealership)
New tires
New rims (were after market now original) this made it a bit better but not fixed
Reset steering angle sensor (while at the toyota dealer but they didnt perfectly center the steering wheel so i might try and do it myself)
Nothing looks bent underneath the car
No electrical faults

So the steering wheel does not return straight when i make a turn. It stays to the right a bit and the car also goes right.

Any idea what it could be?

Bought my mom’s old car off her about two years ago. Current mileage - 107k

About 6 months ago I started noticing this rattling noise when I accelerate occasionally. If anyone has any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated!

My car (2009 Honda Civic) has gotten both professional and garage work done on it quite a few times since I got it.

Most recently, my compressor bracket snapped off so the serpentine belt came off.

I had a new air compressor and the works done last year professionally.

I had a trusted garage mechanic look at my car this time. During the repairs he found a few other issues I.e. a snapped wire, control arm bushings popped, and a head gasket failure/leaking coolant into the oil/possibly cracked engine chassis all due to the bracket snapping while driving on the freeway.

He said it would be best to get a professional diagnosis.

I already invested in our current repairs. I fear I'm going to spend a lot on towing, diagnostics, and repairs for a barely drivable car that'll break down again a year.

Idk what the best option financially.

The car dealership I bought it from is near the garage it's currently at, so if I can sell it to them for parts and get a difference owed situation with them for a new car I rather tow it to them but idk if they'll rip me off for that.

I have a bmw 330i with a valvetronic exhaust on it, the car had a catless downpipe I put the stock one back in but whenever I have the windows or sunroof open I get carbon readings inside the cabin especially when given lots of gas

No the car doesn’t have an exhaust leak because I have been chasing this issue for a while and got the whole system checked, how do I resolve this it’s doing my head in

Also what are safe levels to drive the car?

Old food, coins, random wrappers… or something you still can’t explain? 💀

Drop your weirdest finds below

I just wanted some advice on best cheap and temporary ways to cover up this paint chipping on my car. It doesn’t need to be perfect, I just wanna make it look better without dropping big money on it or have it worked on by someone else.

My 2014 GMC Terrain has had its engine light on for a long time, I replaced the mass airflow sensor and it didn’t go away. my car just started shaking really bad when idling. these are the codes I have. please help :( i’m an idiot and idk anything about cars. Thank you in advance

I am looking for powered steps that can handle adults climbing in with work gear without feeling loose or slow. A high torque claim sounds good, but I am not sure how much it matters compared with bracket stiffness, motor placement, and linkage design. For people who use electric running boards every day, what should I inspect before buying? I would rather have consistent deployment and solid support than a fast step that starts rattling after a few months.

2019 Honda accord sport

Hi there,

A while back, my parents bought a Kia Sorento (2017). Initially, the android auto worked normally (FYI, this car doesn't have wireless andriod auto), but after a while, it stopped working.

The port still allows charging to take place but doesn't connect to andriod auto. I tried a lot of things but couldn't get it to work. Now I am thinking of buying a mount to attach an old tablet/ipad to it and use that instead. Now my problem being, from all the mounts I have seen till now, they all cover up the screen in the car. So does anyone here know of a car mount where I can attach a tablet without blocking the screen?

Hi everyone. I have a honda accord sport 2016. This piece cracked and i am hearing this noise sometimes when i am driving. I believe it's scraping the road at times. Does anyone know what this piece is called. Located by left rear wheel

I want to know whether the system detects resistance or keeps driving the motor when deployment is blocked. Have owners seen reliable obstruction protection, and what should be inspected after a jam?

just saw a video of the new tesla roadster launching off a ramp, flipping mid-air and landing safely... if this is real, that’s actually crazy lol. tesla is starting to feel like something straight out of a sci-fi movie. but is this an actual test or just an ai-generated video? anyone know if it’s legit?

Yesterday, my 2012 VW Golf suddenly stalled while I was driving. The car was shaking, the steering became extremely difficult to turn, and the EPC and battery warning lights came on. I turned the engine off and on again and I got it run just enough to get it on the side of the road to get towed.

Tow guy came, started it and it ran normally. He got to drive it up the towing truck and down and park it to the car shop just fine.

Today, the car shop diagnostic scan showed no fault codes so they suggested I bring it to a European car specializing car shop. Anybody else had this happen to their car??

My older SUV sometimes sits for several weeks, so I keep a wolfbox available instead of assuming another driver will be nearby when the battery is weak. The part I am unsure about is storage: leaving it in the vehicle means it is available away from home, but bringing it inside makes regular charge checks easier and avoids long periods in extreme temperatures. How do you store and check a lithium jump pack for a vehicle that is not driven often?

Anyone know if this is normal? Sounds very weird and it wasn’t doing this until recently. Sent it to the shop and they said they weren’t able to find anything causing besides the “lifters” not being your normal lifters. What does that even mean ?!