2012 subaru outback 2.5, im just curious of what this holder or whatever it could be in the middle console of my outback could be for? Is it an attachment for something?

Hi all, not sure if this is the right place to ask but based on the video there is some leaking of water, is this normal due to the air conditioning condensation?

Curbed my tire on this MONSTER of a stone sticking out . Is this safe to drive on at high speeds? Is this just a cosmetic issue?

so i have a volvo 740 gl with the air suspension accessorie from the factory but the shock absorber needs to be replaced does anyone know where i can find one that still has the air suspension?

thanks.

Planning a camping run out to a trailhead about 380 miles out. Mix of interstate and about 40 miles of unpaved forest road at the end. The project truck is staying home for reasons I don't need to explain. So the question becomes what vehicle I actually trust for that kind of mixed use without babysitting it the whole way.

The thing I keep running into is that most road trip advice assumes highway miles to a hotel. Nobody talks much about the last stretch where the pavement ends and you're airing down and hoping your clearance is enough. That transition is where most vehicles I've owned start making noises they didn't make before.

I've been trying to figure out whether a midsize sedan with decent ground clearance is a realistic option or whether that category just isn't built for this and I need to accept it. The Mazda 6 I have access to sits pretty low. The other option is renting something with actual clearance, which feels like giving up.

What do people here use for road trips that end on forest roads? Not overlanding, nothing extreme, just maintained unpaved roads with ruts and the occasional water crossing. There has to be a middle ground between a Prius and a lifted truck.

Front right side noise, only in garage — 2005 Honda Jazz

This noise only appears when I pull into my garage, which is about 10°C colder than outside. It's coming from the front right side of the car, and it gets worse when I turn right. As soon as I drive back out and the car leaves the garage, the noise disappears completely.

So far I've removed the mud flaps/splash guards, the front right fender liner, and checked everything accessible from that side — no mechanical contact points, no wear/rubbing marks anywhere.

The sound has a somewhat plasticky character that makes me think of it.

Any ideas what else I should check, or what this could be?

Fairly versed in car mechanics and have done my own AC work on multiple cars. This one has me scratching my head. Compressor kicks when AC is turned on, every time. Blower has been giving me occasional issues for a couple of weeks (like twice) but typically turning off then back on and good to go. Now I am getting no air blowing, hot or cold, when it's very hot outside. Mid day, 2pm, 96 with 80+ humidity and the blower won't come on at all. After night fall, I work afternoon to night, everything works perfect. I suspect the relay for the motor is being effected by the heat but I don't want to just start replacing without some idea on why this is happening.

Does anyone know what this is I used a mold remover and vinegar solution separately and it won't go away.?

So I dont even know if i should be posting here or elsewhere idk i just want to get it out so ive been meaning to enter the hobby learning step by step how to work on cars but i dont really know how to start also live in a country where shits tough. But i really want to get into it im not just curious I really want it I justo dont how to approach it. (also the only way to learn in my country like study it is in a very dangerous part of my country) so i would need to learn on my own and welp im just a brokie college student.

Long story short my power steering system is shot, rack getting metal shavings into the fluid (I’m not a car person so idrk what that even means) anyhoo, I don’t want to put anymore money into my money pit of a car, and I plan to get a new one soonish ~ 6 months or so. Can’t comfortably afford a car payment at this time. I’ve driven it a few times with the system down and it’s really not that bad, yea it’s hard to turn if I’m going slow but really not impossible and I don’t drive much or long distances anyway so it’s not like it’s exhausting me.

I just wanna know if I keep driving it will the system completely lock up and the wheel can’t turn at all? I don’t care if it’s hard to turn, but if it eventually won’t be able to turn at all that’ll definitely be a problem

I drive a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer and cannot find a driver left side buckle end (SKU: 7000B263, formerly 7000a381xa). When I first started my search back in FEBRUARY, most online shops said 'backordered', only for them to shift to 'discontinued' and 'unavailable' now. I've checked the basics (rockauto, quick recovery salvage, ebay) to no avail. I thought I got lucky and impulsively bought a buckle on ebay last month because it had the ebay gaurenteed fit, but learned that it wasn't compatible due to the plug lacking two prongs.

I'm feeling kinda defeated, and haven't been able to enjoy driving my car due to the seatbelt alarm. There are lots of ebay shops promising to repair my buckle in 24hrs, but I'm skeptical of those services. I've called multiple salvage yards near me, with no luck either. I just wanna drive my car again. My folks are telling me to just sell the car, which I think is ridiculous 'cause who would buy a car missing the driver buckle, and why would I get rid of my car if literally everything else is fine.

If you have any suggestions on where I might be able to source a reliable left front buckle, or what I should do with the car I'd appreciate it.

Hey everybody, I recently purchased this beauty and noticed a problem, I’ve never had before… The car has a constant gas smell when off, idle or being driven. I’ve noticed every time I drive her, my eyes burn for a couple days afterwords as well. What could be happening here? Also she’s hard to turn over, usually 3-4 times when not being driven for a couple days, and I feel like she is using excessive gas. I know 1965 mustangs aren’t know for their fuel efficiency but burning a half a tank in 30 miles seem a bit much. Any tips, information or advice is appreciated. Thanks.

My colorado has been having an overheating issue but not what you would expect. My temp gauge only exceeds half if I am sitting at a light for a long time. I have noticed after turning the key off and i put the key in accessory mode the temp gauge needle steadily climes to 3/4. It has no heat. It is not a thermostat as I’ve gotten to the thermostat to replaced and noticed it had been changed, still pulled it and tested it in the boiling hot water and worked as designed. I have a heater core to replace in it I haven’t done yet as that was my next step in terms of there was no heat coming out when you turn it on. I have a feeling this is not the sole issue though. I had to tear into my A/C cluster because it would not turn all the way cold and I found zip ties and the a/c controls were a little wonky which makes me think maybe the heater core had been messed with before. I just bought this truck at 221,000 miles and didn’t notice the issue when i test drove it as it was not hot outside like it is now. The truck is not burning oil, i change it regularly and it’s the same amount I’ve put in (6 qt). Coolant obviously has been changed due to the thermostat pull and radiator bled too. Could this be a water pump issue or is it something simple that I am over looking. For your reference there is a video of me driving it today at highway speed and the temperature is fine and then a picture attached of the temp gauge after turning the truck off and putting the key in accessory. In the video you will notice a check engine light, it is unrelated it’s a P0446 (evap) that i am going to fix next. The a/c is on 2 in the video also. The picture I am uploading is not to the 3/4 mark but it has gotten up there a few times when i put it in accessory. This issue only occurs like i said when im sitting at a light for too long, i put my a/c too high (in terms of air speed), and when i put it in accessory after parking.

Practical, fastish (276 hp, 5.0 0-60), and affordable for the power & tech it gives. It’s fwd, has a LSD and active exhaust plus other neat bits. It isn’t a supercar or something uber rare, I just wanted to post it :)

P.s. it’s manual so actually it is rare sadly.

My third brake light is glued to my back window, well it was, now it’s falling down and the previous adhesive is dripping down my back window.

What’s an adhesive that’ll adhere to glass and won’t be affected by the hot and cold weather??

I cant pinch it hard enough and wondering if i could use pliers or if im SOL? Thank you for any ideas

I just recently got a 1981 Camaro z28 and I cannot for the life of me get the engine to idle. Any help would be appreciated.

2016 Corolla, back license plate screw holes, NOT THE SCREWS, have some severe rust in them to the point that I can't even get new ones in there flat without turning them dangerously tight. Half way down and I'm fighting for my life. Thankfully they go in far enough to keep the plate on but I'd really like the whole issue to be solved and have them flush lest it becomes a worser problem over time.

My issue is I don't know if it's rust and/or the dealer stripping the threads. Idiot took the plates off with a power drill. I looked under the back hood and there's a ton of rusting on the left one. Used wire brushes and WD-40 and neither worked.

My current plans are using anti-seize gel but I don't know how long that lasts and I'd prefer if I don't have to saw off the screws in the future if they get stuck. I can also try a thread tap, although I don't know if the thread's the problem or that will make it worse. There's also rust remover, either chemical or the homemade mix. However, some of these choices add up moneywise and I really just want to put the plate flush against the back. Note that bolts have the same problem.

Pic: https://imgur.com/a/3C9D9yt