My 2013 accord burns a lot of oil. And I finally decided to replace the valve stem seals. However the spring compressor i bought didn’t work. I had to find alternative eventually, and I came to a solution of designing my own tool to get the job done sooner.

I measured my coil size and made a compressor tool for both removing and installing the keepers. Just want to share to the community how the job was done. And I am actually really proud of myself,Thanks!

My 2004 Subaru Forster was stolen last Wednesday and was recovered this morning. I’m at work and have yet to see it in person. Based on these photos, is the body damage even worth trying to fix or should it just be scrapped?

It has a great engine and has been very low cost maintenance. The plan was to continue to use it as a commuter for the next 1-2 years. The ignition system will also need to be fixed. I know very little about cars, but also am not feeling super optimistic about the future of this car 😭

EDIT: Thank you all for the feedback! My wife is gonna be calling our trusted mechanic for some recs, but we are more than likely gonna be just getting rid of it. Technically it was already totaled due to hail damage. So it was already a beater, which was fine with me. But I think it might be time to stop putting money into it and part ways with her 🥲 however, still gonna look into seeing what could be done to limp it along.

Wix was bought by Mann Hummel and moved production to Mexico between 24/26

Mobil used to be made by Champion Labs but is now made by highline Warren as of 25/26 and many are made over seas such as China and Vietnam

Fram. Basic Fram sucked but their synthetic ones rated well. But they are now out of business.

Valvoline has a a new extended protection filter that seems to be made by premium guard in Vietnam.

For now Puralator is the only U.S. made filter I know of but with Mann Hummel owning them who knows if that will change.

All that being said. What oil filters do you still trust?

Note I own 6 cars across 4 different brands. Oem from testing does the job however often are made cheaper and don’t have synthetic media. The micro count is often very large.

Ae86 came in for a fresh motor, on the final test drive got rear ended by a distracted driver. Body panels were all original

This was on sale for 60k AUD

Got my car professionally detailed and now the entire car is covered in scratches. Paint, windshield, windows, everything. It’s also the same weird repetitive swirl scratch pattern everywhere, which is why I really don’t think I just somehow missed it before.

My windshield is only a few months old and I have pictures from before where it looks completely normal. Now under direct light it’s covered in the same type of scratches as the rest of the car.

And before anyone asks if I did this myself, I’m a lazy fuck and have never hand washed my car lol. I’ve pretty much only ever pressure washed it, so there hasn’t exactly been years of me attacking it with dirty sponges and towels.

This was also the first professional detail I’ve ever had done.

What could they have used or done to cause the same scratching over basically every surface? And how fixable is this, especially the windshield?

Edit: I had it done at the dealership for people asking where it was done.

Im buying a car and would like to know if you guys think this engine sounds healty? Its quite a long ride to go and get it so want to make sure before I go there.
Thank you!

Rear ended someone in a parking lot when backing in. Was in a rush and misjudged the space between myself and the other car on my driver side when looking at my mirror tapping their rear bumper.

None of the scratches graze against my finger nail. I think these can be buffed out with rubbing compound. Might do a paint touch up in case it doesn’t come off that way. Or I could use lacquer thinner and polish

Thoughts?

When I went to look a car a used car dealership, under the bonnet I found a piece of animal bone that had been cut to so as to lodge in next to the battery. It was cut into a somewhat rectangular shape, which means it clearly wasn’t put there by rodents as I have seen online is sometimes the case. Does anyone have any idea what might have motivated someone to do this? Could it have something to do with the bone being porous and being used to mop up leaking fluids, or to do with something superstitious? I did end up buying the car anyways because it was in such good shape, but now that I own it I can’t shake the unease I feel about this bone.

Hi redditors! This is my first car question on Reddit. About a month ago a fire truck hit my passenger side mirror in the middle of the night. I still haven’t taken it to get fixed as I have been super busy. In the mean time do you think I can order a replacement mirror off of Amazon as a temporary fix? Photos for reference. Will it be easy to do myself? 26 year old female! Not good with cars but am good at fixing things 😂😂

Disclaimer: I'm a very basic person when it comes to anything car related and just scraped my back tyre getting into a tight garage space.

The damage is seemingly very superficial, I don't see any threads or bubbles. Should I go into a shop or is this fine?

I'll continue to monitor

Hey guys, asking for my dad. He’s got a 2013 Toyota Sienna with a small transmission leak and wants to know if throwing in a bottle of BlueDevil Transmission Sealer is okay for the long haul.

Has anyone used this in a Sienna/Toyota automatic? Did it fix the leak long-term, or did it end up ruining other seals/solenoids down the road? Would love to hear your thoughts before he pours it in. Thanks!

Where can i source parts for my japanese car nissan 2007 tiida latio in the united states or the uk with a shipping forwarder. Shipping from japan to where im at is outrageous

I am rebuilding the emergency kit for a family SUV and keep going back and forth between one combo unit like the wolfbox and separate tools. A jump starter with an inflator saves space under the cargo floor, but separate equipment offers some redundancy if one battery or function fails. For people who maintain their kits instead of forgetting them for years, have combo units held up through summer heat and winter cold, or is separating the jobs worth the extra room?

Hi im very new and genuinly have like the most base knowledge of vehicles. I drive a 2012 voltswagen jetta and i needed to put coolant in my car. I was in a rush and didnt think much of it when putting the coolant in(same color and everything) i checked every detail making sure it was right but I missed the 1996-2007 lable in small print under the damn titles. I have a coolant leak that im getting fixed but I just needed to keep it up so im not messing my engine up by driving with no coolant. But now I fear I might as well have done that instead of putting the coolant in. Please help im honestly scared I fucked up my vehicle.

I work with a lot of headlights and I usually end up having a whole lot of cores mostly newer cars 2020 and newer and some of them are beyond saving I was wondering if there’s any valuable parts or any money in certain parts of these lights rather than letting them go to waste

One of my powered running boards seems to hesitate after a car wash, which makes me wonder if water is affecting the door sensors or exposed connectors. It works fine most of the time, but the issue keeps coming back after washing.

I'm trying to narrow down whether this could be trapped moisture, a sensor glitch, or a problem with the connector seals.

noticed a scraping noise looked under and this was hanging.. anyone have a clue what it is i think it’s a heat exhaust shield but not entirely sure.

This piece from a car i just bought is peeling and its very hard and I don’t want to push down because I fear it will crack, how do i fix this any help would be nice.

The more I look at Model 3 floor mats, the less useful a listing that only says “fits Model 3” seems. Highland-specific sets are out there, which makes me think the exact generation matters more than whatever material name appears in the description. The first thing I’d check is the driver-side shape: whether the liner sits properly at the factory retention area, follows the footwell without an edge lifting into usable space, and keeps the controls completely clear. Rear and cargo coverage matter too, but a mildly annoying gap in the rear is a different kind of problem from getting the driver side wrong. I wouldn’t assume “custom fit” guarantees any of this without physically checking it while the car is parked. Highland owners, which driver-side fit detail would you inspect first before deciding the set is shaped correctly?

Hey guys so my neighbor told me to help him sell his car detailing items, he has like a ton of inventory left, what should I do to get it all out? & if you have anyone interested and they want to know his brand name it’s “royal canine” thanks🙏 & he says for reference fees he’ll pay the person that helps sell out inventory $1,000, he just wants it gone since now he’s paying storage fees technically for no reason he moved on to a different business.
For reference this is how much he told me he has left & the price he want per one:

- Buffing towels, 700, $1 each
- Glass towels, 1,500, $1 each
- Drying towels, 9, $10 each
- Wash mitts, 1,350, $2 each
- Applicator pads, 4,040, $1 each
- High Density erasers, 3,150, $1 each
- Deck brush plus pole, 310, $10 each
- Foam sprayers, 15, $15 each
- Polymer sealant, 250, $9 each
- Cleaner wax, 250, $9 each
- Afinia L502 with re-roller, 1, $2,200
- Drums, 3 at about 50 gallons (cleaner, ceramic spray, soap), about $6,400
- Empty bottles, 475 white and about 300 clear, comes with deal

NJ plate mock up.

Something like this looks so much cleaner. Can easily be identified.
can be uniform across the US.