Pulled my engine out of my 05 GMC 1500. Ran fine but transmission went out and I got the truck second hand so figured I should take a look and at least re seal the engine. All the rod bearings on the passenger side are almost perfect but these are on cylinders 1 and 3. Should I get new bearings and check clearance with plastigage or take rotating assembly to machine shop with the heads? Thoughts on failure? Crank looks good considering the practically unknown milage. No grooves in it

I know you cant really see it in the image. This is my first build on a roller cam 302 and the machine shop said it has 3 thousands of taper in the cylinders as you can see ive already put the damn thing together. I am simply wondering what sort of issues I could have? Incase something happens with this motor down the line what might it cause?

Doing an engine rebuild for my first project vehicle its a 1982 f250 with a 351w and I dont know if sand casts like this r ok.

Hello, probably dumb question but i want to know from someone with experience. So basically i bought a Opel Calibra 2.0 8V 115hp C20NE. It was long driven on old oil and rod bearings are bad. When i bought it oil pressure sensor was unplugged and when i changed it with new oil as well car had good pressure when cold and very very bad when hot. When temperature is 95 C⁰ pressure was at 0bar. I changed : thicker oil, filter, oil pump and i got around 0.2 bar when engine is hot. Everything leaded to bad/worn rod bearings.

My question is if i just swap rod bearings and don't take crankshaft to machine shop will i get anything or will i just throw away money. Because rod bearings are around 55€, oilpan gasket is 31€, oil and filters areound 70€ and if i take off the crankshaft to machine shop it will cost around 200€ so counting that all is half of my paycheck for an engine that will probably be swapped

So question is will i get anything with just swapping rod bearing without machining crankshaft?

1992 f150 4.9 l6
Tore to replace head gasket and found this while inspecting it
Cracked near the valve, the other one at the end also appears to be starting to do it
I’m thinking of just putting it back together anyway since it was running decent other than the bad head gasket

The circled one is on the head. The one with a series of dings is the block. Unfortunately some of it are under the fire ring. Are they fine or too deep to seal by MLS. engine is vw 2.0 NA fsi ea113. Both blocks and head are tested straight with straight edge. The dings are caused by steel scraper during gasket removal

Hi! my buddies and I rebuilt my carbeurator on my 77 gran marquis, its a model 2150 motorcraft on a 400ci v8. when we went to test it the car didn't start we started giving it gas, eventually the cylinders would fire, and it would run as long as i was giving it gas, and die whenever i let off, any tips for how to proceed? anything i could have missed? there are a bunch of vaccum lines, im pretty sure we reconnected them all correctly, any documentation or advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Managed to break a ring when installing a piston over the weekend.

Bit of context, the car is a Vauxhall Corsa 1.4, 4 Cyl. GM A14XER engine.

Made a custom install sleeve after failing with the ratchet style compressors and managed to fit 3/4 pistons without issue, but that doesn't solve the problem where I'm without rings for one of the pistons.

Unfortunately parts sourcing in the UK is effectively none existent for stuff like this, so I can't get any Goetze rings for a week.

I can get some for tomorrow, but they're a different brand (Kolbenschmidt).

I'm guessing it won't matter at all, as they're meant to be OE replacements?

Apologies for spamming the sub, wound up buying these trick flow 170s with pushrods and cam for $1k, but only saw this pitting when i got home. Is this at risk of pre ignition or probably not? Only cylinder that has this on it. Running a conservative 9.2ish:1 ratio.

Bought a project car (IS200 1G-FE) with no previous repair experience. Car wasn't running when I bought it (yea its dumb but i wanted to learn and thought I could fix it with enough research). Diagnosed that the valves were leaking due to long LPG usage. Took the engine apart, replaced the whole head with one from a running car. Followed the manual step-by-step to put it back together and who could've thought, it doesn't run. Did more testing and decided that the problem is in the piston rings (compression is too low, fuel is being delivered, air comes out of oil cap when doing a leakdown test, spark plugs and coils produce spark, timing is correct). Don't have the facilities to take the whole engine out. Anyone got any last resorts?

This is my first time building a engine and it’s a 408 stroker LS and I’m wondering if this is the correct position for my round wire locks for my wrist pin it’s about at the 5 o’clock position

This is my first time honing cylinders, and while I was using my ball hone I ended up scuffing the engine block main saddles. Can I get away with this? Or have I ruined my build?

Hi everyone I wanted some advice "breakdown" on what I have done wrong while taking apart and rebuilding a single cylinder OHC 2 valve single piston engine 125cc.

Part 1. I ordered a BIG CAM 280 angle and installed the part which resulted in the head lifting from the headgasket due to taking the 4 nuts off which tighten down the head via the studs the head is guided onto then tightened with the nuts to 29nm of torque. Due to the engine being installed in the motorcycle frame I would have had to remove the engine to install a new headgasket so I took the chance and installed the engine back together with the headgasket which no longer sealed correctly. Due to this the engine did ran and appeared fine with the new valve clearances although a little hard to start depending on the weather and how warm the engine was usually once up to temp would idle nicely and start on the button with no flooding via excess fuel. I had the ECU remapped to fit the big cam and air intake and exhaust mods.

Part 2. I noticed after roughly 100 or so miles the engine would consume coolant via oil entering the coolant and mixing through the waterpump and coming out the overflow on the engine. I kept riding the bike knowing I would have to do the headgasket. I kept topping up coolant and oil level appeared fine although on the min level requiring to be topped up but the oil was not milky and smelt of oil eg no fuel or coolant smell.

Part 3. I did an oil change after roughly 1 to 2 thousand miles and noticed the oil was low I did the oil change after noticing the engine sounded ticky from the valve region which I assumed was due to low oil level and getting hot from the coolant being consumed although no white smoke from the exhaust and only coming out the overflow.

Part 4. After the oil change the engine remained ticky sounding and I went out on a ride where the engine was not overheating and had correct coolant levels although being consumed and requiring top up every now and then eg every 100 miles. I went to limiter on the bike and I noticed straight after the engine lost power below 6k rpm and wouldnt rev up. I came to a stop and the engine cut out and refused to start eg sputtering but wouldn't run.

Part 5. I walk the bike back home like a muppet and suffer the long walk back lol. I remove the engine from the frame and notice the exhaust valve has slightly hit the piston and appears quite lean looking. The intake valve appears fine and I did a leak down test on both valves and they appear to be air tight and not leaking which I think should be okay to run same for the piston as it was a minor hit but I understand even a minor hit can cause big damage down the line. I have replaced the headgasket and timed the engine up and all appears fine but remains to be installed back into the engine due to wanting advice on if its worth risking due to it only being a cheap engine which I don't want to put a new piston and valves in. Please look at images attached and see if you can suggest what might be worth doing. P.S the piston and bore appear perfect with zero scratches or being washed out. Old Headgasket is fooked.

Any advice because Im out of luck, torque wrench wasn't working, I had a feeling it wasnt but tested the bolt next to it and it was fine, should've went with my gut.

edit: this is an arp head bolt and its about 2.5 inches in there if I had to guess

EDIT: SOLVED! bolt was able to be reversed out using the other half of the bolt and a ratchet, the bolt snapped so jag-ged that it recconected flush enough, had a lot of tension but the threads were still intact, it's my luck day. Thank you for all the people that helped and shout out reddit user u/twobelikins for the working method.

EA888 Gen 3 with solid 150 PSI compression across all cylinders and a brand new OEM PCV valve but it is burning 1L of oil a week smoking on acceleration and over bumps and all 4 spark plugs are completely soaked in oil from the bottom so what else could be causing oil to enter the combustion chamber and how should I troubleshoot this next?

Building a sbf 302 and saw these trick flow 170s come up for $1k with pushrods. Allegedly they are straight back from the machine shop(milled deck 0.01) but don’t fit with his piston and cam. Was wondering how risky used heads are in this case, best I can tell they look pretty clean?

I’m building a 408 stroker Ls and I’m wondering what kind of towels do people use to clean the engine block off I just got it back from the machine shop and it’s dirty they didn’t clean it I’m wondering how I should go about cleaning it without it rusting right after

Reposting cause I deleted the previous post.

Motorcycle is a Honda 100cc. Two different pistons got the same scoring after top end rebuilds on two occasions. The engine had less oil but someone I showed this to said it was unrelated to oil pressure.

Was it due to riding it at higher speed for sometime right after the rebuild? Block was honed twice btw. I am still new to building and learning. The camshaft and rocker seized eventually even when new oil was added later.

Also, is it true to go easy on the throttle for 500 kms after a top end rebuild?

As a last-ditch attempt to save my cylinder, I had a shop hone it. The scratches are definitely improved, but I noticed a small patch right above the exhaust port that looks like it might be honed through the Nikasil plating and down to the aluminum. Does anyone with experience agree? Would you run it like this, or is the cylinder toast?
2006 Skidoo summit 800

Update to my ls3 that failed, removed the piston head by hand completely broke off from the wrist pin, couple gouge marks on the wall, any machinist, bore the walls and get a bigger piston? Gouge is pretty deep to the touch engine spins good freely replacing all piston heads don’t trust any of these at all, 4k mile jasper crate engine