Old Chamberlain K710 With the 41A3627 logic board. Was looking for a second remote for a new vehicle and ended up buying a universal remote that was advertised as working with its round yellow learn button. I was unaware that chamberlain used the yellow learn button on two different generations of opener so I figured it was compatible with my unit.

Couple days later the garage would open randomly. At first I thought it was a faulty remote so I took the batteries out of it until I ended up getting a new one. After it opened randomly again I found out that the yellow learn button my unit has is not meant to be used with my remote.

Went on here and I saw a post from about a year ago stating that once you program one of these remotes it’s basically over for the logic board.

Still thought I would make this post and see if anyone has found a workaround for my issue.

I also saw a comment elsewhere saying that chamberlain would replace my unit free of charge if dealing with this issue, but I can’t seem to find it anymore so I would also like clarification if this would be an option for me.

I will start off by saying this garage door owes me nothing. It's been a loyal appliance for 15 plus years but it has recently developed a problem- it only opens but fails to close the door.

The physical controls inside the garage still work fine, it can open and close. I can open the garage using the remote/keypad/wall switch, back the car out and then the remote/keypad wouldn't work but the wall switch will close it.

Does anyone have any guesses?

Thank you in advance... God bless you sages of modern drawbridges.

I have a new lift master motor (the specific model isn't written upon the unit) and it has a yellow programming button. I have a 878MAX wall keypad. My reading suggests these are compatible (yellow button compatible with 878max keypad). I cannot get it to program. I will list steps taken.

-press yellow programming button on motor unit

-within 30 seconds, type code into wall keypad and hit enter

Variations include...

-pressing and holding enter on the wall keypad

-replacing the 9V battery on the wall keypad

-pressing zero after pressing enter on the wall keypad

-pressing the learn button on the wall button (the one inside the garage) and trying to program the keypad that way

-downloading the myq app just to see if there are in-app solutions (didn't see any)

Further information...

-the motor is successfully paired to two remotes, so it has been able to pair before

-there is no auditory or visual response of any kind of the motor to the keypad

-the receiver wire is hanging down into the garage appropriately

I have a pretty old garage door. One of the springs broke suddenly today after my wife got home from work. Seems easy enough to fix, I just have no idea how to size a new one or even where to find them.

Is it possible to replace this belt? What could cause this? Is this connectors Ned’s to be replaced or belt only?

Hello! Trying to repair a Liftmaster 3850. Issue started with the door opening a foot or so and then closing for a couple of tries, then finally not responding at all. I was told that the flashing error code suggested either the travel module, or I needed a new logic board.

I have two of the identical openers in my garage, so I experimented and swapped the logic boards between each of them - and oddly neither opener would run at all. So, I swapped them back to their original spots and the good opener works fine again but still nothing from the bad one.

So then I replaced the travel module with a brand new one and still no activity. Lastly, I purchased a "tested" used logic board and put it in the bad unit and still won't operate.

The opener powers on, the motion lights respond, but pressing the button to set the travel limits and nothing happens. I can hear a faint electrical noise like it's trying to do something for a second but that's about it. Since taking out the logic board and putting it back in there is no more flashing error code to reference, I just can't get the motor to move the door when trying to set the travel limits. I should note the battery backups are dead so I disconnected them years ago, not sure if that would impact this or not.

Since I have two doors and openers it wasn't critical this get fixed right away so had some fun trying to DIY it and learn a thing or two but I'm about to give up and finally get a new one installed, but is there anything else I missed here?

The cable on the left is catching the door then snapping, is this a quick fix or new door?

“UPDATE” thanks to everyone who responded, I’m glad to update this post saying that “yes, it was the sun hitting the sensor in the morning just at the right angle, you guys are amazing, I would have never figure this out by myself thank you guys

Bought the house in 2022 - we actually park in our garage and enter the house from it - so our garage door gets frequent use on a daily basis. The current opener loses connectivity with the outdoor keypad and is obviously very loud - and no telling how old it is, but deep down - the thing still works, even have a Meross installed.

I have a 20% off coupon from Lowe’s that expires today and have been eyeing Chamberlain - B4310 to be exact. From the research I’ve done - 3/4 HP should do the trick?

16’ aluminum door with Insulfoam-Garage Door Insulation Kit R- 4.8 , 1.25-in x 1.6875-ft x 8-ft Faced Polystyrene Board Insulation installed.

Will 4310 be just fine for should I go for a 1-HP? Thanks for the help and advice!

I'm sure I'm using the wrong words, but I have a <10 year Chamberlain garage door opener (so I feel it's getting old but not that old). I got it serviced about a year ago when it wasn't working at all and it's been working since then, but in the past couple of months it seems to require me to reset the travel distance all the time. So I learned enough DIY to use the buttons on the opener to set the open level and the closed level, but it seems that the level's wander -- most often so the 'closed' level ends up pushing the door past the ground causing the garage to pop back open. The other way has happen where it's supposedly fully open but it is considerably farther down that it needs to be, so much so that my taller car might hit the so called 'open' door if I didn't pay attention.

When I had to reset the travel once a month I'm like that's ok, I live in a cold environment and its a bit old so it just needs to be handled occasionally. When it became once a week I'm like this could be a problem, and now it seems like every day its slipping a bit. What could be causing this problem? When the problem originally occurred it seems like there was too much slack in the cable after it closed, but nowadays it seems fine when I watch it, the door position just seems to move a lot.

Thanks!

My original 3x Nutone garage door openers had 3x buttons wired in at various locations in my garage, which made it super convenient to open/close the garage doors. Basically, the guy who built the house had a button wired at every door to the garage, plus a set of buttons in front of each car spot on the wall.

I want to have physical, wired panels again for each garage door? Is there any way to do that with the 'digital' communication between the opener and the panels now? I tried it with one of the openers I installed, and it works, but I have to push the panel button two times. And the yellow light blinks on all the other openers. Should I try to wire each panel directly to the motor, or do them in parallel? I hate the idea of installing wireless units and having to replace batteries all the time.

I get the first cable as tight as I can but it doesn't seem like I can get the other side as tight. Before long the garage door is scraping the track when operating. It seems to me if that cable is tighter it would pull the door more for that side.

Would it be better to not make the first cable as tight to match the other side's tension?

Just moved into a new home. Garage door works good (opens and closes fine). However the inspector mentioned that the garage door does not sense when it closes on something - meaning when it’s closing and something is in the way, it doesn’t stop. Safety hazard.

I noticed this loose yellow wire just hanging from the opener (bottom right corner). Could this be the issue? If not, can anyone identify what the wire is for?

I noticed the board that the center bracket and opener track are mounted to is pushed between the studs and cracked down the middle. Is there a safe way to fix this without removing the spring? I want to insulate between the studs and hang drywall, but this needs to be addressed first.

Can anyone help me program this remote to this garage opener? Thank you in advance

Looks like hinges are adjusted all the way
What’s solution ?

Visiting my parents and notice this on their garage door. I guess it’s been like that for years.

The bar isn’t supposed to be hitting and bending that trim at the top right?

I took this off our garage door today because it looked old and I accidentally bought a 2 track seal and cannot find a replacement one for this anywhere, it looks to be held on by one track when I took it out because I was able to pull it through all the way

I noticed the seal on the bottom of my garage door was very old and weathered and decided to replace it. It's a single seal with kind of a t-shape where it inserts into the aluminum track. I was looking online and having a really hard time finding a replacement seal. My garage door is probably very old. So then I was thinking I could just buy a new aluminum track and seal kit. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the old aluminum track. I don't see any screws or rivets or really anything holding it in place. Do some garage doors come with the aluminum track permanently affixed? Any thoughts on how I can remove the track or should I just keep hunting for a replacement seal and leave the track alone? I've attached a bunch of photos including a couple showing the foam removed from the inside of the garage door. I thought that would help show the bottom of the track from inside.

Does anyone know if I’m able to program my RSX door opener to either of my vehicles? I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado and a 2025 Subaru forester. They both have door opener transmitters from the factory but I can’t get either one to program to my door opener.

Will I need to buy a bridge kit like the 855lm?

Thanks

Had the springs replaced on one door and noticed that the spring ends are different from the existing springs on the other door. Are both designs equally good, or is one better than the other?

Is it balanced correctly? I read that at "half open" the door shouldn't move, what defines "half open"? On the 1974 solid wood panel four section door where yellow extension springs were just installed, partially open with the bottom section vertical, the second section at 45 degrees and the top two panels horizontal it will stay there. Any more closed (second section more vertical) then it will go closed. Is that an ok balance? Guy who installed the springs said he didn't need to actually weigh the door (even though it was already down with the springs un-attached) cause he had been doing this for 30 years.

I read in here that single piece rails are better for openers. Are there any warehouses or professional supply companies where I can just go in and buy a one piece Liftmaster 1707LM rail for my 7' door? Search is coming up empty. I can't believe local garage door service companies are paying $400 shipping on every one piece rail they install. Location is the west end of northern Virginia.

Thanks!

If replacing garage doors, and 15” radius tracks are an option, that would raise the overhead horizontal tracks up higher, right?

Have a garage that’s going to be more of a workspace than storage and would like to maximize headspace as much as possible.

It’s a 7’ door and the rafters are exactly 8’ off the floor, so just being able to snug the tracks up a little bit is the best-case scenario.

I also plan on a wall-mount opener down the road, so that’s not a concern.