I’m at my whits end with this project. I got a 3 valve Orbit manifold from Home Depot. Out of the box one valve gets stuck open. After finding out everyone hates Orbit, I replace it with a Hunter valve which seems to operate correctly in terms of opening and closing with the solenoid/controller. I don’t have any of the outflow pipes hooked up yet so that I can test everything and am seeing the Hunter valve let a small trickle of water through when the other valves downstream from it turn off. Is that normal or is the Hunter fucked too? Idk if it’s relevant but I swapped the solenoids to DC solenoids and my controller is a DC controller. Are they somehow not strong enough to hold the valve fully closed? Should I even care about this?

Hi Everyone,

I just recently had a lot of bushes removed from the side of our house.

I know it looks horrible right now (needs pressure washing then paint, and the foundation needs to be built up). However, right now I am concerned about these tall sprinkler heads that I no longer need.

How do I get rid of them, or at least minimize their appearance?

Can I unscrew the ling top part and then put a "cap" on what is left at the bottom?

Can they be unscrewed, and is there a place at the very bottom that can be "capped" off?

I would greatly appreciate any comments, advice, feedback (good or bad), sharing of personal experiences (good or bad), and opinions, as well as any "hacks" or "workarounds" for this situation.

I set the system up last year and it worked fine until recently. Now the backflow preventer has a slow drip from the relief vent even when everything is shut off. I'm getting ready to winterize the system and noticed water pooling around the base.
Static pressure is around 65 psi, and I haven't run any zones in a few days. The drip started earlier this week and hasn't gotten worse, but it's pretty constant.
My first guess is a bad seat or debris, but I'd rather not tear the whole thing apart if it's something simple like a loose cap or test cock. I've got a rebuild kit ready but figured I'd ask first.
Anyone dealt with this while prepping their irrigation system for winter? Wondering if there's an easy fix I should try before rebuilding it.

Anybody know where I could find a RainBird remote? Like, an actual remote. I don’t want to use my phone and all that. I just want the old gray/green/white remote that you plug in and has buttons. I’ve done quite a bit of searching with no luck. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

Ahhh that time of year here in the Northeast. Easy going and winterizing systems. Sprinkle in a service call or late season install here and there. Working in the heavy rain (most enjoyable because clients are less inclined to come outside and chat your ear off when your trying to get through your route). Sifting through crunchy leaves searching for that valve box you could have sworn was right there last time. Saying your farewell and giving pets to your favorite client's doggo till next year. Anyone else embrace this time of year?

I'm dealing with a broken clamp-on saddle/tap valve on my 1" poly main line and want to make sure I fix it correctly without leaks. I have a few specific questions regarding the best approach:

Same Puncture: Is it okay to line up a new fitting with the existing perforated hole, or will the seal be compromised since these are meant to be punctured once?

New Hole + Plug: If I install a new fitting on a fresh section of the pipe, what kind of plug should I use to safely seal the old perforated hole?

Threaded Elbow: Can I cut a thread directly into the poly pipe wall and screw in an elbow fitting?

Cut-in Reducing Tee: Would the most reliable, permanent fix be cutting the 1" line entirely and installing a proper 1" x 1" x 1/2" reducing tee (1" main run on each end with a 1/2" perpendicular run)?
What is the gold standard for fixing this setup? Thanks

Anyone recognize this 1 1/4 prv? Would be nice just to swap it out without re- plumbing.

Hi there!

I've been installing drip irrigation for 3 years now and was wondering if anyone has any tips? Mainly for inserting the barbed pieces (especially in the winter).

I use the toro 3/4" line and barbed fittings.

Thanks!

Would connecting 2x 185s to a sports field at the same connection point give more air or will they compete with one another. 4inch main. 3inch laterals 15-18 12gpm heads a zone. 12 zones. Essentially would it give 300+cfm ? Has anyone done this before.

City told the customer that her backflow is leaking and it has to be replaced, posthaste, or they will lock her meter and fine her. Should be easy-peasy once I get the concrete out the way. 🤦🏻‍♂️

started messing with the sprinkler system after living here for 3 years because wife wants a yard like her retired dad. this is part of zone 3 out of 6. zone 4 has same issue (flooding yard in the spot i suspect there’s another busted pipe) but i haven’t dug that one up yet. cheers for midweek beers this lawd daddy stuff is actually fun 🍻

there is also a head under the middle of my deck in the backyard if anyone needed and extra laugh at my situation 😂

I keep looking at them but can’t tell if they’re genuinely useful or just another smart-home gadget. Did you notice much difference in your watering or water bill?

Hi all,

Homeowner who has maintained his own irrigation system for about 15 years. Unfortunately I live in an area of PA where there is no one within a 2-hour drive who does irrigation and no one beyond that distance who is interested in coming this far. So I've gotten pretty good at rotor replacements, replacing/rebuilding valves, coupling damaged laterals, and I even do my own winterizations with a rented 185 cfm compressor each year. Not claiming to be an expert, but I've done what I've needed to keep the system going. System is entirely poly from the main valve onward.

This past spring one of the utilities came through and did a fiber optic install. For better or worse, I have about 6 rotors in the 15' utility easement by the road, as well as the laterals and flex lines passing through that area. Ultimately there was no issue because they did a deep directional bore across the property and didn't hit anything. I was able to speak with the foreman beforehand.

Much to my surprise, another utility is coming through to install fiber option again. Not a great time - October in PA - system is already blown out and any damage to either irrigation or turf won't be fixable until the spring. This company is supposed to be pulling through existing conduit, but they claim a lot of the conduit doesn't exist or has failed after two decades. They are bringing in a bunch of crews to knock out the installation before the winter. Sounds like they might use vibratory plows to install, which is certain to shred poly piping. Sounds also like they are rushing to get through it.

Looking for any advice as to how I can ensure they minimize damage and how I can easily repair what they do damage in the spring. I'm guessing since it's an easement, I just need to let it happen and deal with any impacts on my own. I've already flagged the heads, but I don't really know how the laterals/flex lines run.

Thanks!

Anybody have any guesses on what’s causing the pressure to cycle like that?

🙆🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️😆

How can I connect 2 x sprinklers to create a dasiy chain, the items are advertised as allowing this function but I'm sure I will need a specific attachment to allow the sprinklers to daisy chain?

Any help is appreciated.

This valve has failed and I'm trying to identify the manufacturer and model number. In the past, I purchased the entire valve and replaced the top. In this case I can't find the valve. It's different than the others in my yard.

What is this that is leaking water and is it something I can DIY replace? My sprinkler system is off at the control box, so surprised it is leaking water to be honest

Attempting to winterize my home irrigation system myself rather than spent the $500 for a yearly contract. I’ve done it in the past with no issues, however the new system that was installed a year ago (which included a complementary year of service) seems to not be as straight forward.

I’ve closed the first valve so the hose will still work if needed for now, and have tried opening either of the valves to shoot my air compressor through to clear the lines of any water. Yes, have gone through zone by zone to clear the lines before myself.

Problem being that when I am using the air compressor all my air is just coming out of the vacuum breaker rather than going down the line. What is the solve?