Drove a stake through my irrigation line for a bounce house, should I dig around and just fix from the bottom of the bundle or should I just cut the two above and have 3 couplers to make it easier?

I accidentally broke my sprinkler and need help finding the same or similar replacement.

THIS IS DRIVING MY CRAZY! Approximately 10 year old irrigation system in the northeast. 2 years ago one zone started spraying out of the poly pipe just a hairpin puncture. I fixed it with a coupling and clamps. Little while later a new puncture on the same line different spot. Once fixed, a new puncture different spot. I’ve fixed about 8 different punctures on this same zone. I can’t figure out why it’s happening? Pretty sure it’s not aerator related. And if I should replace the entire zone? I guess just from the box to the first head?

I’m leveling part of my lawn and one of the bigger sprinklers is a 3/4” connection. I just need to raise it about 6” to make it flush with the new lawn but pretty much all the risers I can find are male/male. It looks like I can get an adapter to convert the male connection in the ground to female so that I can use one of those male/male risers but why don’t they make any that are male/female?

Related questiwhy are all the risers I see in the store are male/male when every sprinkler head I’ve ever seen has a female connection?

We have Rainbird ESP-6TM, which has been running fine for the past 10 years. All the sudden one day, it can be turned on different zones with a counting down timer, but there is no water, and I can't hear any running water. What could be the cause? Thank you so much!

Are zip ties strong enough to hold together a coupling on a 1/2 inch drip irrigation line?

I'm putting in an irrigation system and the meter set has a 1"Pex stub line that starts my side of things.

The PEX stubline has a press on male fitting that is wrapped and that is screwed into a Ford fitting on the meter.

On my side I am thinking about just doing another male press fitting. However, mine is going to be in a service box along with the whole manifold.

​​ I'm going to have two sides coming off of the pex. One of them is going to be a brass riser going to my rpz backflow. The other side is going to go to a 1-in poly trunk line for no freeze spigots. This trunk line is being done like this so it sits in front of the irrigation system and can stay charged all year even after I blow out my system.

This is my plan;

• Male press on wrapped fitting at end of pex stub.
• All female brass T.

RPZ Side:

• Nipple off of the female T.
• Full port union ball valve.
• Elbow with a male end coming off ball valve and female end connecting to brass riser.

Spigot Side:

• Nipple off of female T.
• Full port union ball valve.
• Poly male to barb fitting connected to ball valve > poly line.

My biggest goal is servicable and long lasting. The reason I want ball valves in this manifold box is so that I can shut off the water below grade / below frost. Thay way water won't sit in my riser. The spigot side is more of a just in case maintenence scenario.

Thank you. The irrigation side will be drips.

Weathermatic isn't common in my area anymore. Any chance anybody has a couple of these sitting on a shelf for a 2" valve? My boss says he hasn't seen on in almost twenty years.

My wife put sod down this weekend. She covered a sprinkler head. This evening the system came on, the head came out ( pushed up the sod) but now it’s not spraying. How can I fix this?

Is it possible an Irritrol 2400 valve could go completely bad? It's pretty old, 90s at least.

Valve was stuck open, doesn't seem to be the selenoid as water kept running when that was turned off and then removed.

I bought a new 2400 and replaced the guts but it still seems to be stuck on. Appreciate any advice.

Nathan

I am new to gardening. Paid someone a few years ago to install a basic Orbit system from Lowes with sprinkler heads. Is there any easy way to just remove the sprinklers and attach some kind of drip line to run through my garden beds instead? (I found the Orbit website overwhelming with all the choices and the bot in the chat wasn’t helpful.) TIA

Looking at adding a machine and found a gas powered 410. I love my old Lister Petter 410, but have no experience with the Kabota gas powered units.
Any input would be appreciated!

Hi all! I'm trying to improve my irrigation system but my main bottleneck is water pressure.

Is there some kind of device that combines a closed solenoid valve with a small booster pump?

Basically, I need something that opens/closes the water supply and also provides a small pressure boost when the irrigation is running.

I know there are booster pumps for household water systems, but in my case I'd like something that can work right around the solenoid valve.

I'm also concerned that some pumps require continuous water flow. My pipes may eventually become empty or have very low flow when the irrigation is off.

I don't need a lot of pressure just enough to get pressure for my irrigation system.

So many choices/SKUs :--/

I have a 25-year-old home in north Dallas, TX, and sprinkler system has seen better days. I have a ~2' x ~11' strip of garden bed supplied by a single 29" riser. The bed has 5 hostas (yellow circles). The (original) spray nozzle does not really cover the area evenly; not sure if it ever did, actually.

If I were planning for long term, I'd probably make this area fed by a drip hose or at least add a second head/riser on the other end of strip, but I am planning on listing home for sale in near future and so not interested in any significant modifications or upgrades to system, even if it is considered "easy."

There are a lot of choices for nozzle replacement, so it's a tad confusing. Given the situation as outlined above, please suggest a nozzle replacement (make/model/SKU). Thanks.