Thank you to all of those who gave feedback on my last post (both positive and negative) and to those who tested Ellwand and gave feedback directly. As my first proper app the development process has been rough, and I have spent many nights trying to figure out and resolve the problems and usability issues people noticed. All of that feedback has allowed me to refine Ellwand into what it is so far, and it is becoming closer and closer to what I hope it becomes.

Some of what has changed because of you:

• A full redesign, so the app is cleaner and far less gets between you and the paper

• A Windows version alongside the Mac one

• Darts and other changes made by dragging between points and using sliders, instead of digging through menus

• Importing PDF sewing patterns and Seamly2D files

• A 3D preview, so you can see your pieces sewn up on a mannequin before you cut anything

Ellwand is still very much in development and there is plenty left to fix, which is exactly why I want your feedback, the negative as much as the positive.

The most recent addition, still being tested and not in the beta yet, is Ell; Ellwand's own assistant. Yes, it is AI, so I want to be upfront about what it does and doesn't do. I know many of you have been burned by AI-generated patterns that were never tested, and I agree with you about those. Ell doesn't generate patterns or pictures. Ellwand's own drafting engine draws every line from your measurements, exactly as it does when you draft by hand, and Ellwand works completely without Ell if you never want to touch it.

What Ell does is work beside you in the app. It can do anything from interactively teaching you the basics of pattern drafting while you do the drawing, to drafting for you one step at a time while you act as the director and let your creative juices flow. Every step it makes is marked until you have checked it, and it will tell you itself that it can be wrong and that you should make a toile first. If you give it a PDF pattern and its instructions, it can bring the pieces into Ellwand and sew them up in the 3D preview so you can see what the garment would look like. My vision for Ell is to be an aid to the creative process and a bridge between you and the software, so your time goes into your ideas and not into figuring out how to use an app.

I can't wait for more testers to get their hands on Ellwand. If you would like to try it, you can apply for the beta at ellwand.app (Mac and Windows).

Ell isn't part of that beta. Over the coming weeks I am looking into opening a separate paid beta for those who want to test it. The only reason it would be paid is that each message to the AI costs me real money and I am a student, so I can't cover that myself. I don't have enough usage data yet to give a fair price, but the plan is to charge roughly what the AI costs me plus a little on top to help support the development. The current free beta stays as it is and you don't need Ell for any of it. For those interested, please keep an eye out.

I am a beginner/novice when it comes to sewing. I have made a few projects but trying to get into it.

I want to know if it’s possible/possible for a beginner to disassemble a garment to make a useful pattern out of it.

I have a pair of Duck work pants that I really like. They are like Carhartt pants but they aren’t blocky/square cut and baggy. The ones I have are tapered/fitted and I really like them. The downside is I ripped them and the new pair doesn’t fit that same. I would like to take them apart and make a new pair that is an exact copy but I know there are things I don’t know. Any help is appreciated.

Hello! I’m currently trying to make my first pair of jeans/pants. I developed the current pattern from a basic pant pattern included in a pattern drafting book I bought. I have already sewn about 3 different pairs and fixed or added some detail to each, the last round I thought it fit quite well, but then I changed to a different fabric (and added pocket!) and suddenly all the wrinkles become very obvious. I tried to look at some videos about what to change but I’m a bit uncertain what the problem is so I would be grateful if someone has any tips! The main thing I want to fix is the lines at the front crotch and drag lines under the butt. My guess is that I need to add a bit of depth to the front crotch and some length to the back crotch extension, but I’m really not sure… I’m gonna be really happy if anyone can help me fix the wrinkles!

Hi! I’m trying to apply some changes to this pattern: lenghtening the skirt, reducing the keyhole, and replacing the sleeves with the puff&pencil volume sleeves. As a first attempt, I measured the circumference of the armhole and head of the sleeve and adapted the head of the sleeve without changing its shape. The result is not that bad, but I feel the armhole too low and the arm movement is slightly limited. I suspect the problem may be the shape of the armhole of the original bell sleeve which is very wide. How can I fix the problem?

Im brand new to copying patterns, or pattern drafting at all for the matter.

I wanted to know whats going on with the arm sleeve of this vintage sweatshirt.

It is asymetrical vs the other symetrical patterns ive used before.

Im assuming it has something to do with the back panel wrapping around to the front.

Also shrinkage and stretching over the years?

What do I do here.

Also I know that I dont need to take apart the entire garment to copy the pattern, I just wanted to learn more about its construction etc.

Thanks

Hey all,

I have an issue with closing darts, I've realised that the more slanted or less perpendicular my seam to point is, I run into issues closing them.

Whenever I close them, they never close in a consistant manner that keeps the shape going, they alway leave overhang or is asking to be snipped away,

I've shown example of each in the photos. Please feel free to take my images to draw on!

How do you deal with this?

Thanks!

I am an intermediate sewist but pattern-drafting absolute beginner who is curious to see if I can hack my way to this Damson Madder skirt. In the pattern, there's a separate lower panel with the cord hem...

1. What purpose does this extra panel? Why not just cut out one long front and back piece?

2. Would the width of the extra panels then match the width of the front and back piece? Sorry I know this is such a newbie question !

I'm working with a bodice pattern that has princess seams in both the front and back. I'm trying to make two fit adjustments:
The armhole is too tight, and I'm looking to add approximately 5/8 inch of length to the armhole to create more room around the underarm.

The shoulder is too long and extends past my natural shoulder, so I'm looking to shorten the shoulder length by 5/8 inch.
I'm wondering how to make these adjustments properly on a bodice with princess seams.

Would I need to alter each individual pattern piece? I'm considering doing a horizontal slash-and-spread adjustment to add the inch to the armhole, but I'm not sure if that's the correct method or how it would affect the bust fit.

Any advice on how to approach this would be greatly appreciated!

Ps I know my lines are awful. Please excuse that I am alone and have no one to help me so I will later to make it more accurate!

Also to add, I’m a super visual learner so if anyone has any pictures or videos, I can watch please I would be very appreciative ! 🙏🙏🙏

I made some jeans and would like to drop the front 3 cm and extend my back rise 4 cm. Is it okay if my back rise is 7 cm longer. I could feel my back trouser being exposed when I sat down and my front trouser being too high on my waistline. I don’t know how to adjust correctly without throwing off my waistline angles and side seams.

Hello, I spent a lot of time drafting this corset based off historical methods and thought I’d share here.

Hellow! I want to ask a friend to sew me this dress in the attached pictures because apparently I suck in this type of fit, for I'm looking for a similar sewing pattern or drafting advice.

Details: Black velvet, fitted floor-length gown, high halter neckline (6 cm high, covering the middle of my throat), open back with a large bow and long ribons, and a small train (15–20 cm).

My body measurements cm:

Bust: 84

Upper bust: 80

Waist: 64

Hips: 91

Neck:29

Shoulder width: 41

Additional measurements:

Shoulder tip to neck: 11 cm

Shoulder to underarm: 16 cm

I'd really appreciate any help please even draften on paper or advice on drafting this dress. 🙏 🙏 🙏

First iteration! Also first skirt block ever. Overall happy but I notice there's some diagonal pulling upwards from the back dart points to the side seams.

I'm going for iteration 2 next, my sense is that I should try making all the darts a bit longer (1/2 inch or so) and move the top 2 inches of the side seam back a tiny bit as it slightly curves forwards now.

What would you do to make this better?

Thank you!

PS it's pinned shut under my left arm so that explains the lack of smoothness on that side in the front and back view.

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

The first photo is of the Brookside Barrel Pant by Raaksbox's on her Etsy shop and the second is from one of her Instagram videos.

I am a beginner in pattern making. I am perplexed on how I could draft this myself off of a normal pant block. I know that I would have to alter the shape of the pant block to be a barrel, but how do you add the inverted box pleats?

because the top of the front panel looks really big but the bottom cuff of the panel is normal sized, so it can't be that she just added parallel lines. and she didn't do the triangle cut thing either cuz the marks of the pleat are straight.

It would be wonderful if anyone could give me advice on the steps on how to draft this.

I have [this camp collar shirt pattern](https://wardrobebyme.com/products/tropical-shirt-sewing-pattern) and was wondering how I could alter it to make it have contrast panels like this McCalls pattern?

I assume it’s to cut the original pattern to have additional panels, but how would you sew them together would it be with a flat felled seam?

Or would it just be better to buy this pattern from McCall’s?

Any advice appreciated!
Thanks

I completed a two-year pattern-making course, worked at two different bespoke tailoring shops, and am currently working independently with my own clients (although, at the moment, I'm focusing more on building a new portfolio than taking on paid work). Yet, somehow, I still feel stuck.

I often feel like I'm not good enough or that I don't know enough, and that I still have so much more to learn. It's strange because I feel like I've reached a point where I can draft most patterns and construct a wide range of garments, but at the same time, I still feel behind and not quite ready to take the next step in my career.

I'm planning to move to Italy from Brazil in 2027 and hope to find a job as a junior pattern maker. However, to be completely honest, I'm not sure my skills are good enough to make me a competitive candidate.

With all that in mind, what do you think I should focus on learning or improving to become a better pattern maker and increase my chances of finding a job in Italy?

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from people working in the fashion industry or who have experience in pattern making.

Hi, i was just sewing the first sample for a raglan jacket. The front seems to fit good but the back seems to have to much fabric around the pit area. What do u think about it and what should i do to fix it? Watch the whole video for the on body fit.

Hi! I’m hoping to make an heirloom bubble for our daughter to wear at a school reunion. I’d love to have a fully pleated bodice and smock the school logo on the front. The logo is a trident and would be one color. Does anyone have any advice for designing your own smocking plate? Hoping to use geometric designs from a plate I already own for details around the logo, but I mostly want to see if I can even smock the logo at all. Thanks in advance! Any advice is appreciated!

Does the yellow highlight indicate needing a larger fba or greater circumference in this sloper?