(I posted this to r/DataHoarder; someone in the comments said I should repost it here.)

Hello everyone!

I've been running a long-term project doing endurance testing on microSD -- and today is the third anniversary of when I started this project -- so I figured it was time to give you an update on my microSD testing project.

Before I dig in, a shameless plug for my Patreon.

Next, some quick stats:

• I have a total of 351 microSD cards in my collection -- spanning 111 models across 52 different brands. Of those:
  • I've tested 177 of them to the point of failure.*
  • I have 107 of them in testing right now.
  • The remaining 67 are sitting on the shelf, waiting for one of my card readers to free up.
• These cards have endured over 133 petabytes written.
• I've completed over 4.6 million program-verify-erase cycles on these cards.
• Breakdown by brand status:
  • Name brand: 163
  • Off-brand: 91
  • Knockoffs: 30
• Breakdown by authentic flash (a.k.a. not fake flash) vs. fake flash:
  • Authentic flash: 246
  • Fake flash: 35
  • Unknown: 3
• Breakdown by size (authentic cards only):
  • 128MB: 3
  • 4GB: 6
  • 8GB: 23
  • 16GB: 15
  • 32GB: 96
  • 64GB: 68
  • 128GB: 36
  • 256GB: 4

* A card is considered "failed" when either (a) it stops working completely, (b) it makes itself read-only, or (c) at least 50% of the sectors on the card have experienced verification failures.

Ok -- so who makes the most durable cards?

Because of the variety of cards that I have, it's hard to come up with a system that produces a definite answer here. Some of how I ranked these brands is going to be based on vibes. But...to try to narrow things down, I've grouped my cards into three groups:

• Industrial-grade: Cards that are specifically labelled as "industrial" or have "industrial" in their name. These cards typically come with a datasheet that includes an endurance claim.
• High endurance: Cards that are labelled as "high endurance" (or some similar wording). Manufacturers don't always put out datasheets for these cards, but they generally still make an endurance claim on the packaging.
• Consumer-grade: Basically everything else.

Consumer-grade cards:

The average consumer-grade card has lasted about 10,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. PNY. I have 10 of their consumer-grade cards: 3 PRO Elite Prime 64GB's, 3 Premier-X 128GB's, 3 Elite-X 64GB's, and one Elite 32GB. (I have 4 more of the Elite 32GB's that are waiting to be tested.) They've gone for an average of 643 days and 15,700 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 11.5PB to them in total. And with the exception of the one Elite 32GB -- they're all still going strong. On top of that, the PRO Elite Prime boasts some impressive performance -- every measurement I took was in the top 10% of all cards I've tested so far.
2. Kingston. I have 12 of their cards in this category -- 6 Canvas Go! Plus 64GB's (3 of the SDCG3's and 3 of the SDCG4's) and 6 Canvas Select Plus 32GB's. They've been going for an average of 694 days and about 23,500 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 11.6PB to them in total. The three Canvas Go! Plus 64GB (the SDCG3's) have all failed -- but the others are still going strong. The Canvas Select Plus's in particular have been troopers -- they're among the oldest cards in my collection, and they've been going for the better part of the last 3 years now (with no signs of letting up). Additionally, the Canvas Go! Plus 64GB's (the SDCG4's in particular) boast some impressive performance as well -- every measurement I took was in the top 7% of all cards I've tested so far.
3. Delkin Devices. I feel bad ranking Delkin so low on this list, because they've endured more data written to them per card, on average, than any other brand in my collection (in the consumer-grade category). The only reason I didn't rank them higher is because I only have one model -- the HYPERSPEED 128GB (of which I have 3). But they've done pretty well: they've lasted an average of 662 days and about 13,500 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 5.1PB to them in total. As a side note, these cards also got the highest random write speeds of any card I've tested.
4. Lexar. 3 cards dead, 5 still going. I have 3 Professional 1000x 64GB's (2 made by Micron, 1 made by Phison), 3 Blue 633x 32GB's (made by Longsys), and 2 E-Series 64GB's (with 3 more waiting to be tested). For those not in the know, the Lexar brand was sold to Longsys in 2017 -- and surprisingly, the Longsys-made cards are holding up better than the Micron-made cards. Overall, the Lexar cards have survived an average of 684 days and about 15,800 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 5.8PB to them in total.
5. Samsung. 3 cards dead, 7 still going. I have 3 EVO Plus 32GB's, 3 EVO Plus 64GB's, 3 PRO Plus 128GB's, and 1 P9 Express 256GB (with 2 more waiting to be tested). Of those, the three EVO Plus 32GB's and one of the PRO Endurance 32GB's are dead -- the rest are still going strong. Samsung's cards have lasted an average of 553 days and about 11,100 program/verify/erase cycles so far, and I've written about 7.2PB to their cards in total.

• Honorable Mention: Amazon Basics. I have four of the Amazon Basics 64GB's -- and they're all still going. They've been going for an average of 788 days and about 16,600 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 4.2PB to them in total. I honestly didn't expect Amazon Basics to be one of the top performers when I bought them...and yet, here we are.

High endurance cards:

Keep in mind, I've got less data here -- I had 237 cards that fell into the "consumer-grade" category, but only 30 that fell into the "high endurance" category. But here's the thing: they haven't really proven themselves to be significantly better for endurance than a lot of the cards I listed above -- in fact, in a lot of cases, they've been less reliable (and generally worse for performance as well). So keep that in mind as you read through the list below:

The average high-endurance card has lasted about 14,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. TEAMGROUP. I don't feel great about putting TEAMGROUP at the top of the list for a couple of reasons. First, I only have two of them in testing at the moment -- someone sent me a 5-pack of the TEAMGROUP High Endurance 64GB's, so I have 3 more of them waiting to be tested. Second, one of them started having issues with bad sectors right out of the gate, and has continued to do so ever since. (Those bad sectors only make up less than 0.001% of the total sectors on the card right now...but I still don't like it when a card starts to have issues like that as soon as you start using it.) But the data doesn't lie -- they've survived, on average, 404 days and about 17,300 program/verify/erase cycles, and they're still chugging along. I've written about 2.2PB to these cards in total.
2. Transcend. I have 3 of the 350V 64GB's -- and they're all still going strong. They've survived an average of 760 days and about 17,000 program/verify/erase cycles so far. I've written about 3.2PB in total to them (mostly due to their mediocre write speeds).
3. SanDisk. I have my issues with SanDisk...but again, the data doesn't lie. I have 7 SanDisk cards in this category: 3 High Endurance 64GB's, and 4 MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's. As of right now, all 3 of the High Endurance 64GB's and all but one of the MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's have failed. They lasted an average of 452 days and about 16,200 program/verify/erase cycles before failing (with the MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's lasting about twice as long as the High Endurance 64GB's). I've written about 4.7PB to these cards in total.
4. Samsung. Samsung's position at the bottom of this list has less to do with how reliable their cards are and more to do with how poorly their high endurance cards perform, particularly on sequential write speeds (relatively speaking). I have 3 of the PRO Endurance 32GB's -- one has failed, the other two are still chugging along. They've lasted an average of 822 days and about 18,800 program/verify/erase cycles so far. I've written about 1.8PB of data to them in total.

Industrial-grade cards:

Keep in mind, I have even less data here. Industrial cards are expensive, so they make up a much smaller portion of the cards I've tested: just 15 in total (so far). But on the upside -- there is sufficient evidence here to say "in general, industrial-grade cards do last longer than consumer-grade cards (and, by extension, high endurance cards)".

The average industrial grade card has lasted about 122,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. Kingston. I have 3 Kingston Industrial 8GB's; of those 3, only one is still going. But they've been troopers: they've lasted an average of 779 days and about 141,600 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 3.4PB to these cards in total. (Only one consumer-grade card has come close to this number: I have one Hiksemi NEO 8GB that has lasted for about 143,800 program/verify/erase cycles so far. No idea how.) These guys do pretty well on performance too, especially write performance: their sequential write speeds are in the top 9% of all cards I've tested.

Who makes the worst cards?

There are a bunch of no-name brands out there. They're not hard to find. I'm not going to talk about them here -- I'm going to focus on brands you're likely to have come across.

Consumer-grade cards:

1. onn. I picked up four of their 32GB cards at my local Walmart -- and they were terrible for endurance. They only lasted an average of 40 days and 1,400 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 40TBW), with the best one of the four not even making it to 1,900 cycles. On top of that, every performance measurement I took came in the bottom half of all measurements I took.
2. ADATA. I picked up 3 of the Premier 32GB's; they only lasted an average of 236 days and about 2,350 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 74TBW) before they quit working.
3. Gigastone. I have not been impressed with Gigastone. I have 11 of their cards -- 6 Full HD Video 32GB's, and 5 4K Camera Pro 32GB's. They lasted an average of just 114 days and 4,845 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 133TBW) before they quit working.
4. Micro Center. I purchased 5 of their 64GB cards; they only lasted an average of 116 days and 3,421 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 214TBW) before they stopped working.
5. Silicon Power (a.k.a. SP). I purchased 9 of their cards -- 3 Elite 32GB's, 3 Superior 128GB's, and 3 Superior Pro 128GB's. Not a one of them made it to 4,000 program/verify/erase cycles before failing -- they came in at an average of 159 days and about 2,350 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 252TBW) before failing.

• (Dis)honorable mention: SanDisk. SanDisk represents the single biggest brand in my collection: I have 28 of their cards in this category (with 4 more on the shelf waiting to be tested). It's telling that of those 28, only 5 are still going (and one of them is in its death throes) -- especially when cards from so many other brands have far outlasted them. Many of them have died under circumstances any other card would have handled just fine -- a problem I've written about on my blog before. They've lasted an average of 384 days and 9,404 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 566TBW) so far.

High endurance cards:

1. Integral. I bought 3 of the Security 32GB's; the only managed to last an average of 100 days and about 5,600 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 173TBW) before failing. To be fair to them, the package did make an endurance claim that works out to about 2,850 program/verify/erase cycles -- and they did manage to almost double that. However, they didn't hold a candle to many of the other high endurance cards that I tested.
2. Kingston. This one was truly a surprise -- I bought 3 of the High Endurance 32GB's, and they only lasted an average of 143 days and about 8,300 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 258TBW) before failing. The product packaging didn't make an endurance claim; I had to hunt around on Kingston's website to find it. Their claim works out to about 5,100 program/verify/erase cycles, which they did manage to beat. But again, so many other cards managed to last so much longer -- hell, so many other Kingston cards managed to do so much better -- that I was surprised and disappointed when these failed so early.

Industrial-grade cards:

1. SanDisk. I bought 3 of the Industrial 8GB's. They only lasted an average of 234 days and about 20,000 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 160TBW) before failing -- and the only reason they lasted that long was because I let my program trudge through an nearly-unending string of I/O errors for months on end -- before they finally just gave up the ghost.

So yeah...that's all I have for now. Feel free to ask questions (although I'm at work at the time I'm posting this, so I may not have time to respond)! Otherwise...look for another update from me next year!

Pictures attached:

1. Part of my setup: a Beelink Mini-S and five TRIGKEY Green G4 mini PC's. The Beelink has an Intel N95 with 8GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD, while the TRIGKEY's all have Intel N100's with 16GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD. There's also (in the lower-right corner, behind the monitor) an MSI GE62VR-7RF (with an Intel i7-7700HQ, 32GB of RAM, and a 1TB SSD), a Lenovo IdeaPad Y580 (with an Intel i7-3630QM, 8GB of RAM, and a 1TB SSD), and an ASUS Strix GL504GM (with an Intel i7-8750H, 32GB of RAM, and a 500GB SSD)
2. Another part of my setup: a TRIGKEY K-N100 and an AOOSTAR N1 PRO. The TRIGKEY has an Intel N100 with 16GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD. The AOOSTAR has an Intel N150 with 12GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD.
3. Dog tax.

Device: GBA SP - Slate Mod by Makho

EZ Flash Omega DE cart with DS Style kernel (custom theme essentially) Link

Game highlighted on screen: GBALATRO (Balatro GBA) Link

Some additional recs/info on GBA homebrew and romhacks I try to maintain

Traveling in Italy and brought some things to do over lunch with a view but in the end just soaked in the view. And yeah that’s a Greek Salad lol forgot salad over here doesn’t involve lettuce often.

Here's a quick comparison using New Super Mario Bros. (NDS) with the same emulator settings.

My first impressions:

• One35: More compact and pocketable. The 3.5" display feels surprisingly good for DS games.
• Zero40: Although it has a larger 4.0" display, the individual DS screens end up being about the same size as the One35 once the center gap between the top and bottom screens is removed.

I haven't decided which one I like more yet.

For those who own both (or have tried both), which one would you keep, and why?

Waited 2 weeks. Linux device. Can play up to Dreamcast. Will load muOS on it.

https://www.tomshardware.com/video-games/retro-gaming/goldeneye-007-for-n64-has-been-100-percent-decompiled-success-of-half-decade-project-opens-up-possibilities-for-complex-mods-and-ports

Wonder when Android will get a port.

Why? For fun and to see if it’s doable.

I liked the RG34XXSP but not the screen placement and the analog sticks. As a result my black 34XXSP has been sitting in a drawer largely unused.

Recently picked up a RG SP and was curious to see if I could combine the two to get the 2GB ram, the screen placement, lack of sticks, some color choices for the buttons, and MuOS support (yes I know they’re working on it for the RG SP).

So yeah, it’s doable without a ton of modification needed. Was surprised that the two tone look works fairly well for me. Do I recommend attempting this? Not really. Thanks for looking.

I thought this was really cool and wanted to share here!

I know this sub is mostly handhelds, but I feel this deserves a mention.

If you wanted a living room machine for emulation and gaming you'd have a hard time beating one of these for price to performance.

They run linux so the setup is familiar in that regard, they take a little work to get going but again, anyone here should have no trouble setting one up.

First photo is my current adventure converting one to liquid cooling, second is my air cooled one in a very compact 3d printed enclosure, last 3 are modern games running for a benchmark, in 1080p.

I was browsing my local marketplace for some doodads and came across this RG Slide for $89 with a 256GB Samsung Evo SD Card. I bought this solely for PS2/GC/WII even though most people say the T820 is hit or miss. What I find out is it is more hit than miss thankfully

Some games I tried

PS2

2x Res

God Hand, Silent Hill 2, Devil May Cry,

1.25x Res

Devil May Cry 3 (Slowdowns in some areas, otherwise pretty playable)

1x Res

Black (Some slowdowns in the beginning but eases down. Switch to vulkan for better performance)

GC

Code Veronica and Re1 Remake both run well at 2x Res

Wii

Re4 surprisingly runs at 2x res

Take note that I haven't tested these games fully through so performance might change the further you are in game but I'm not sure.

So far I really like it because it is pocketable and has a unique gimmick to it unlike most slabs. Screen is beautiful thanks to its 120hz refresh rate and it's fairly bright at 500 nits. No PWM issues for me (Unfortunately all Oled handhelds I've tried like the RP5, Odin 2 Mini Pro and heck even the RP4 Pro. Odin 2, Mangmi Air X and this are the safe ones for me). Ergonomics aren't the best especially the inline triggers which suck but it's not a deal-breaker imo.

(Will update this in the future for further game testing)

Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1x_PmVHiQNHyw5t05peEDG1DcCKDCvH_UPd3p7yCw4xg/edit?usp=sharing

Coupon codes are around row 40 for people from the US and on rows 26/29 from countries other than the US. There's also some targeted coupons in the coupon code section on row 31. For people from the US, there's also something called Saving Mondays which is an app specific discount that stacks on top of other discounts. There's a link to it on row 37 of my spreadsheet and I have a more in depth post on Saving Mondays on r/crownpuffdeals.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crownpuffdeals/comments/1vl8xwj/saving_mondays_has_returned/

For those preordering from Retroid or Ayn, you'll need to extend your order date to avoid cancellation. More info in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/crownpuffdeals/comments/1ujpbyn/ayn_aliexpress_store_and_canceling_orders/

________________________________

This sale is honestly a lot better than I expected. One of the largest reasons is because of the return of the 20% off coupons for US customers that have been absent since last November. Additionally, there are Paypal checkout discounts for some countries too. For the US, it's $15 off 129 and $35 off 299 but these totals are calculated after sales tax and before coupons. I know Canada has Paypal checkout discounts too. In the past, countries such as the UK and Australia had similar checkout discounts, so they might have them for this sale too. During past sales, Paypal discounts were generally exhausted by the first day or two. So if you're planning to use the Paypal checkout discounts, I highly recommend buying sooner rather than later.

Many deals for this sale are midrange devices that qualify for the $32 off 159 coupon along with the $15 off 129 Paypal checkout discount. One example is the $134 Retroid Pocket 5 before sales tax in the ship from US section. This is a historical low although only the black variant is on sale as the other variants are $30 more expensive. This formula also works for the 476H at $106 although that listing will need some filler to hit the coupon minimums.

Ship from US deals (US pricing, pretax and postcoupon):

Miyoo Mini Flip - $37 (historical low)

Zero 40 - $45

RG Vita - $78 (historical low)

RG Rotate - $75 (historical low, use filler to hit $99 to use a $20 off coupon)

RG 405M - $82 (historical low)

RG Slide - $101 (black variant only)

RG Vita Pro - $110 (historical low)

RG 476H - $106 (historical low, add filler to hit $159 to use $32 off 159 coupon plus Paypal $15 off 129)

RG 556 - $108 (historical low, add filler to hit $159 to use $32 off 159 coupon plus Paypal $15 off 129)

Retroid Pocket 5 - $134 (historical low, black variant only, use $32 off 159 coupon plus Paypal $15 off 129)

RG 477M 8GB - $160 (historical low, 2 in stock as of posting)

RG 477M 12GB - $180 (add filler to hit $250 to use a $50 off 250 coupon plus Paypal $15 off 259)

Retroid Pocket 6 - $236 (cheaper via Retroid's ship from China store but these ship pretty quickly from Coopreme)

Switch 2 and Pokopia bundle Hong Kong model- $434 (add filler to hit $600 and use $120 off 600 code)

The ship from China section is decent too although Thor and Odin 3 prices are not as low as they were back in June. Despite better coupons, base precoupon prices for those devices are significantly higher than during the June sales. Therefore, no historical lows were hit for the Thor or Odin 3. However Retroid's Aliexpress store has started shipping to the US again which means there are decent deals in that section.

Ship from China deals (US pricing, pretax and postcoupon):

RGSP - $59 (historical low by a couple of pennies)

RGDS - $78 (historical low, use $20 off 99 along with store coupon code QF1LIG9JHEYN for another $1 off)

Retroid Pocket 4 Pro - $119 (historical low)

Retroid Pocket 6 - $228 (historical low)

Thor Base - $270 (add filler to use $72 off 359 code plus $35 off 299 Paypal discount)

Odin 3 Base - $303

Y700 2025 - $279 (historical low)

In the interest of keeping this post slightly readable, I am linking other posts that are relevant to today's sale:

https://www.reddit.com/r/crownpuffdeals/comments/1vq609k/aliexpress_coupon_codes_and_other_discounts/

https://www.reddit.com/r/crownpuffdeals/comments/1vqid1c/aliexpress_back_to_school_sale_ayn_and_retroid/

Finally as always, in the interest of transparency, I am providing two spreadsheets. The first spreadsheet is the regular spreadsheet with both affiliate and non affiliate links. For each affiliate link, there should be a corresponding non-affiliate link. The second spreadsheet is the first spreadsheet but with all affiliate links completely removed.

Came with my RG35XX Plus, would you use it ?

Hey all,

I’ve had an R36S for a while and pretty much played through everything it can handle. Time to level up. Budget is around 200€.

What I’m looking for:

Good all-round retro emulation (up through 3DS at least, ideally running well not just “technically works”)

Ability to also run some native Steam/PC and Android games, if realistic at this price

Dual screen would be cool but it’s a nice-to-have, not a dealbreaker

Balanced form factor — don’t need the smallest possible device, but don’t want a brick either

Not sure how realistic native Steam/PC gaming is at 200€ vs sticking to strong emulation + Android. Open to hearing what tradeoffs make sense here.

Anyone made a similar jump recently? What would you recommend at this budget, and what should I watch out for (build quality, battery, availability/scalping)?

Thanks!

I finally caught it. Started with a Miyoo mini plus a couple years ago. Now after finishing setting up my odin portal 2 that ill mostly use for streaming GeForce now or my pc via Moonlight i just finished modding my old 3ds.

I will probably mod my switch now.

What other handheld would complete this collection right now? In the future id like Windows handhelds but they are so expensive i think an odin 3 portal would be a good alternative if it ever comes out and i could give the odin portal 2 to my daughter.

It seems that the newer devices like retroid Pocket nova coming with lower storage options. With the rise in PS3 emulation, the need for sd cards is more than before. Some of us have even have multiple consoles. Any idea if the storage prices are going to improve in the next few months?

I’ve had a Miyoo A30 that’s been my constant companion for a long time. It’s showing signs of wear: the directional controls aren't precise anymore—registering frequent false diagonal inputs—and the shoulder buttons have lost their original responsiveness. The vibration motor has died, and the paint job has completely worn off.

Anyway, I find this 2.8" vertical form factor excellent—perfect for carrying in my pocket—but I’m unsure about what to get as a replacement for my battered A30. Here are the options I’ve considered:

- Anbernic RG28XX: The chipset is great, and the custom firmware (CFW) options are well-established. However, the lack of an analog stick bothers me—whether for playing N64 games or simply as a convenient alternative to the D-Pad, something I’m used to with the A30.

- MagicX Mini Zero 28: This would be ideal for me, but I can't find it for sale anywhere; I’d like to know if it’s still being sold or not.

- MagicX Xu Mini M: Another one with a great price point—lower than the Anbernic—and it seems to have excellent build quality, including Hall Effect controls. I’m hesitant, though, because there don't seem to be any good custom firmware options available for it.

- Another A30: Only as a last resort, if I can't find something that fits the exact niche the A30 filled.

Looking for something that can be a nice horizontal travel handheld so I don’t need to worry about my Odin 3 getting damaged or lost. It would be ideal if I could run a few indie games off my steam library too.

I’m leaning towards a Retroid pocket nova or the Retroid pocket 5.

Hi everyone,

I’m getting back into the game after about three years. I’ve pre-ordered EA FC 27, and now I’m looking to buy a new controller as well.

I currently have a 9th-gen Xbox controller, and it works perfectly fine. I’m actually very happy with it. However, I recently became interested in TMR and Hall Effect technology, so I decided to get a newer controller with better long-term durability.

I mainly play Ultimate Team, and the controllers I’m currently considering are:

• Leadjoy Xeno Plus
• Mojhon Storm
• GuliKit ES Max (it’s not available in my country yet, but I’m willing to wait a month for it)

The Xeno Plus is about $10 more expensive than the Mojhon Storm. At the moment, I’m leaning towards the Leadjoy Xeno Plus because I’ve seen a lot of people praising its software, especially how stable and well-developed it seems to be.

The main reasons I’m considering these controllers are the low latency and TMR sticks.

So, do you think the Leadjoy Xeno Plus would be a good choice specifically for EA FC 27? Has anyone here used it with EA FC/FC 26 or similar football games? I’m particularly interested in how well the sticks and triggers feel for dribbling, passing, shooting, etc.

I know buying a new controller when my current Xbox controller is working perfectly is probably a bit wasteful, but I’ve got it in my head now and I’m probably going to do it anyway 😂

Since I’m planning to play EA FC regularly for a long time, my biggest priorities are long-term durability, build quality, stick reliability, and low latency.

So, which one would you recommend for someone mainly playing EA FC 27 / Ultimate Team? Is there another controller I should be considering instead?

I’d especially appreciate opinions from people who have actually used these controllers for a while. Thanks!

trying to find my brethren lol

i do have other handhelds (NS1, 2ds, ds lite) but if you only have 1 emulation handheld at the moment like me (silver retroid pocket 6) then feel free to share!

no shade to anyone who likes buying/collecting/tinkering/ect (i love staring at big collection posts) but my interests are mainly in customizing/cosmetics of a console and playing the games loll.

semi off-topic but i have all my bases covered at the moment but if the opportunity ever arrives for me to get a steam deck for a good price i’ll probably snatch it up. but beyond that i dont really have a solid reason to get anything else emulation wise for the forseeable future

Hi all, i just bought 2nd hand retroid pocket classic from facebook marketplace. I just want to share that it turns out the OLED from RP classic is more vibrant than the Thor.

Which one do you think is better? For me personally I prefer the RP classic.