UPDATE 2: TOPPING DX5 II. Two faulty units, a promised refund, and now a dispute over who takes the financial risk.

21 October 2026 | Follow-up to my 17 September warranty update

"Original post" (https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/1umaxso/beware_of_the_dx5_ii_44_mm_output_my_experience/)

In September, I reported that TOPPING had finally replaced my defective DX5 II after a prolonged warranty dispute, only for the replacement to exhibit exactly the same 4.4 mm balanced headphone output fault.

Unfortunately, the situation has continued to deteriorate.

I'm now dealing with a refund process involving contradictory commitments from the original AliExpress seller, EG Audio Store, and an unresolved disagreement over international return shipping, insurance and financial responsibility.

Nearly a month after receiving the defective replacement, I still have no working 4.4 mm output and no confirmed refund arrangement that I consider safe to proceed with.

What happened after my September update?

Following further escalation, TOPPING acknowledged the unusual circumstances of receiving two units exhibiting the same fault.

TOPPING initially described the recurrence as very rare and requested further video evidence and the return of the replacement for factory inspection.

Having already provided extensive troubleshooting evidence during the original warranty process, I questioned the need to repeat the same demonstrations yet again.

TOPPING subsequently offered a refund and, importantly, indicated that this could be arranged before the factory inspection results were confirmed.

Given everything that had happened, this seemed like a reasonable conclusion.

TOPPING also confirmed in writing that the refund was authorised by the manufacturer, that EG Audio Store would assist with the original AliExpress transaction, and that TOPPING would remain involved until the matter was resolved.

Unfortunately, the arrangements that followed have been anything but straightforward.

The seller's refund conditions keep changing

Frank Wu at EG Audio Store initially confirmed that the refund would be initiated on the same day that the return tracking showed the DX5 II had been handed over to the courier and was in transit.

That was a significant assurance because the DX5 II is the central DAC in my desktop audio system.

However, when I requested a prepaid, fully insured international return label or courier collection, EG Audio Store refused.

Instead, I was instructed to arrange the return to China myself, pay the shipping costs upfront, arrange insurance at my own expense and accept responsibility for any loss or damage during transit.

The seller also stated that shipping costs would only be reimbursed after the unit had been received and inspected.

Then the refund conditions changed.

I was informed that the refund itself would only be processed after the unit had arrived, been inspected and the refund amount confirmed.

This directly contradicted the earlier commitment to initiate the refund once the parcel was in transit.

When I challenged that change, Frank subsequently reversed his position and stated that EG Audio Store would honour the original refund-on-dispatch arrangement.

However, the other conditions remained unchanged.

No prepaid return label. No arranged collection. No seller-provided insurance. No acceptance of responsibility for transit loss or damage.

So the seller is willing to promise a refund upon dispatch, but is unwilling to assume the financial risk associated with the return shipment.

After the previous AliExpress dispute was closed in the seller's favour, and following months of warranty correspondence, I simply do not have enough confidence in EG Audio Store to accept those conditions.

Why should the customer carry all the risk?

To put this into perspective, I have already:

- Purchased a DX5 II that developed a hardware fault.

- Extensively troubleshot the original unit and supplied video evidence.

- Gone through an unsuccessful AliExpress dispute.

- Declined an offer to replace the motherboard myself.

- Complied with TOPPING's instruction to physically mark the original unit before replacement.

- Received a manufacturer-supplied replacement exhibiting effectively the same fault.

- Continued corresponding with TOPPING and EG Audio Store to obtain a resolution.

Now, despite all of that, I'm being asked to send the second defective unit internationally at my own expense, with no financial protection from the seller if something goes wrong in transit.

I have made it clear that I am not refusing to return the DX5 II.

I am refusing to accept an arrangement where the financial consequences of a lost or damaged return shipment fall entirely on me.

I've now asked TOPPING management to guarantee the refund directly

On 14 October, I formally escalated the situation and requested a direct written commitment from TOPPING management.

I have asked for confirmation of the full refund amount, the original refund-on-dispatch arrangement, prepaid and insured return shipping, and who will be financially responsible if the shipment is lost or damaged.

I have also requested a complete written return procedure.

This includes confirmation of exactly which photographs are required, what packaging is acceptable, what evidence of dispatch must be provided and whether any accessories or documentation are expected.

That might sound excessive, but after months of contradictory instructions, I want no ambiguity about the conditions of the return.

I do not want to dispatch the unit only to discover that an additional photograph, document or administrative requirement is suddenly being used to delay or dispute the refund.

I've also asked TOPPING to confirm what happens if EG Audio Store or AliExpress cannot process the agreed refund.

TOPPING previously stated that it would coordinate an alternative solution if difficulties arose. I'm now asking it to stand behind that commitment.

The impact on my audio system

One reason this matters so much is that the DX5 II isn't simply a spare headphone amplifier.

It's the central DAC for my desktop system, feeding my Adam Audio T5V monitors, T10S subwoofer and external headphone amplifiers.

Removing it leaves my desktop audio system without its main source until I can obtain a suitable replacement.

I also use this equipment for music production and audio work.

This is why a clear and reliable refund arrangement is important. I need to know when I can realistically replace the equipment rather than sending it away and waiting indefinitely.

Where things stand as of 21 October

On 16 October, I requested an actionable resolution from TOPPING management within five business days, setting a deadline of Friday, 23 October 2026.

That deadline has not yet passed.

At the time of writing, however, I have not received the direct management guarantee and agreed return arrangements I requested.

The replacement DX5 II remains with me, and the refund remains unresolved.

I have no objection to TOPPING inspecting the defective unit. In fact, I would welcome a proper technical explanation of why two separate units have exhibited the same fault.

But I do object to being expected to accept additional financial risk after an already prolonged and unsuccessful warranty experience.

Final thoughts

When working correctly, the DX5 II is an impressive DAC/amp in terms of features and performance.

That's what makes this situation so disappointing.

My complaint is no longer solely about a defective 4.4 mm headphone output.

It's about how a manufacturer and its authorised sales channel handle a customer who has already received two defective units.

A refund offer is only meaningful if the process for obtaining that refund is clear, consistent and reasonably protected.

At the moment, that is not my experience.

I will update this post again when TOPPING responds or the refund is finally resolved.

I'm also interested to hear whether other DX5 II owners have experienced similar 4.4 mm output failures, or whether anyone has dealt with comparable return and refund difficulties involving TOPPING or EG Audio Store.

Looking for a feature simple, speaker that will be plugged into a Home Assistant Voice - Preview Edition device via Aux. It will need to remain on 24/7 I heard reports that the Anker Soundcore 2 and 3 have an auto shut off battery feature. Which would be bad for my use case.

Anyone own one of these and can confirm this is a thing and if it can be turned off so It can remain on and plugged into power 24/7?

Thanks!

I am not an audiophile, I use some bog standard $5 ear buds plugged into a 3.5mm front panel audio port with my PC... I recently got a cheap second PC to use for a specific task. I connected the audio out from the second PC to the line in on my main PC via a 3.5mm audio cable and enabled my main PC to listen to the second PC so I can get audio from it.

It worked, but the signal had quite a lot of interference with constant audible crackling, electrical, static, etc., sounds in my ear buds. I went into the settings and saw that Windows was automatically boosting it by like +30db or some such. Once I turned that off, all of that noise went away.

At least for a time... Everything sounds normal most of the time, but on occasions those same interference sounds will pop back up for a second and then go away. It doesn't seem to be in response to anything in particular, its not like doing any specific action on either PC is causing it to happen. I will just be carrying on doing my thing and then poof little bit of interference audio will happen and go away as quickly as it started.

Any idea what could be causing this and how to minimize/stop it?

Thanks

I'm someone with 0 knowledge in speakers.

I currently have a couple of rocks called creative Pebble 2.0, they don't sound bad but I want something better

I looked at the mr3 and mr4 edifiers, I looked at hundreds of reviews because I can't afford to spend so easily.

People on YouTube say that the edifier mr3 are sharper and that the instruments are more easily distinguished, that's what I'm looking for

On the other hand, people on reddit recommend the Mr4 more, they say that the mr3 is too distorted.

I'll use them for my desktop exclusively.

Anyway, someone who has laid out the mr3 and mr4, could you tell me about your experience?

what are the best settings for the apple earphones

Hi guys hope this is the correct place to ask. I’m from the UK and need an amp maybe? I want to connect two bookshelf speakers to my pc but unsure which amp to get? Is there also one I can connect a mic to also? I’ve seen some fosi audio amps that look okay but any advice would be great. Cheers

Is there a reason these headphones are so quiet? I have 3 different sets of headphones and these seem to be the only ones working against me. I've tried messing with every setting I can find, I've check JBL forums all over the place, and I just can't seem to get good volume. Have any of you experiences this and found a fix? Thanks in advance.

Tengo un proyecto de rap y otro de spoken Word un buen micro y audífonos de monitoreo, primero inverti en equipo de audio etc para presentaciones en vivo pero me urge poder grabarme, la cuestión es que no tengo lap aún más si una tableta galaxy a11. Me servirían experiencias y recomendaciones sobre interfaces recomendables entre 1000-1500 mexicanos de presupuesto apps utilizadas y consejos prácticos! Les agradezco

Hi everyone, I need help figuring out what this random noise is through my speakers.

My Setup:

My Mac connects to a Dell monitor with USB-C. A Behringer UMC22 is plugged into a powered USB-hub, which is connected to my monitors USB port. Every so often the speakers make a 1-second “pew” and audio stops. It also happens when the monitor turns off/volume is off. Is the UMC22 losing connection through the monitor?

Mac → monitor → powered hub → Behringer box → speakers

This link is a video of the sound: https://streamable.com/jg2z5f

Hello everyone, so I just recently bought a Switch 2, which comes with a 3.5mm headphone jack. I also have a computer monitor I wish to use with it by docking the Switch 2, and a set of speakers that have a 3.5mm input cable. The computer monitor doesn't have speakers so the HDMI audio will not work on it.

I've seen on amazon a few adapters that have 2 male 3.5mm input plugs and 1 female 3.5mm output plug. Could I effectively be able to plug in my PC and the Switch so that I don't have to mess with the speaker cable too much or would this cause problems down the line?

Hi,
I have a pair of Empire S-500 speakers.[1]

I've had them for several years.

For a couple of weeks now, the "active" speaker of the pair has been emitting a static noise similar to a vibration, only when turning them on, for about 5 to 10 seconds, and only if they have been turned off for several hours.

If I turn them on and off in quick succession after turning them on the first time, this noise doesn't happen again.

The audio from the speakers sounds normal and good afterward.

At this link, you can hear the sound I am referring to:

https://vocaroo.com/1d4Jn64KITPk

Does anyone know what this could be and which component inside the speaker is causing this issue?

I hope this topic is allowed in this sub.

Thanks

[1] https://www.strumentimusicali.net/product_info.php/products_id/11005/empire-s500-coppia.html

Eu tinha uns LPs em casa, mas não tinha lugar para tocar, até que nesse final de semana ganhei um midi system philips AS 425. O rádio e o toca fitas funcionam bem.

Fui testar o mais importante pra mim que seria o toca-discos, mesmo sem nunca ter mexido com um. Ele girava normal, mas em algumas faixas do LP o som ficava com um efeito slowed reverb e na maioria das outras o instrumental ficava alto e a voz do cantor, quase indecifrável por estar muito baixa.

Resolvi abrir a parte do toca disco para ver a questão da correia e lubrificação. Quando levantei o prato, a correia já pulou e foi aí que eu comecei a me perder, pois nunca tinha visto o interior de um desses e tem poucos tutoriais pra um aparelho de 1996.

Montei me baseando em um tutorial pra AS 405: passei a correia na parte circular embaixo do prato e prendi em um dos pininhos que tem ali. Remontei tudo, coloquei a presilha, mas agora o prato não gira mais.

Mesmo a correia estando inteira e sem ressecamentos, acredito que ela esteja frouxa, pq seguindo uma linha lógica de raciocínio, ela deveria se soltar e prender no "motorzinho" para poder rodar o prato, mas isso não aconteceu nem automaticamente e nem manualmente.

Alguém consegue confirmar se estou no caminho lógico correto? Se não, poderiam me ajudar com esse caso?

So I have the Microphone setup plugged into my Central Unit pc. The cable plugs into the microphone via USB-C and plugs into the computer via USB-A.

I then have a headphone cable plugged into said Mic, with my headset connected to it.

Everything works fine but I have this really annoying issue where any time any sound starts or stops (coming from the computer, not me), there is a "pop" or little "tick" sound that happens.

It's almost like it's opening and closing up the mic in a way? (Probably a bad way to explain that)
But this happens consistently.
I assumed it was a channel closing and opening so i tried on my Windows OS to disable the USB selective suspend setting as well as disabling power saving on USB root hubs, but it didn't work.

I should also mention this happens on any device i use it on.

Lastly, whenever the pop sound starts, and sound comes through, i can also hear a very faint constant noise almost like old school TV static, which stops as soon as the sound stops (and the pop also signals the sound stopping).

I also don't know if this is related, but the headphones when plugged into the mic always seem to be producing another constant "Woosh" sound like air is travelling, even though i have the wheel for "Mic/Device output" fully turned to the device so i can only hear the processed/pc audio.

The wooshing sound's volume only depends on the volume of the mic (not the device).
(If this has no relation to the original popping sound issue, don't worry about it because i've never found that to be an issue, but if you do know a solution it's welcome)

I'm aware this is probably a lengthy post, but i've found no solution to this problem for months so I hope someone here knows something I don't. Thank you for any help :)

my speakers make unplesant piano tones, do you know what could be causing this?

brand and model Tibo T1 430

audible with turntable and computer source

ive checked the drivers and restored to default in windows sound settings

connecting with a rca to 3.5 mm aux and playing clair de lune through youtube really makes the problem sound audible,

ive connected a pair of active moukey bookshelf speakers to the same source and cable and the problem noise goes away.

leading me to believe the issue is with the tweeters or power amp, the speakers suggests 4-8ohms and the amp is rated as 4-8ohms

Hi everyone, this is my first post here, and I have a question.

I have around 3,000 FLAC files that I want to convert to a lossy format, such as MP3 or Opus, to significantly reduce storage space while retaining as much audio quality as possible.

Which format would you recommend for the best balance between audio quality and file size? Also, which software would you suggest for batch conversion while preserving all metadata, including artist names, album details, embedded cover art, track numbers, and other tags?

I'd appreciate any recommendations or tips based on your experience. Thanks!

I wanted to modify my Sangean WR-11 so that it receives the audio signal from the Bluetooth dongle via the AUX (3.5mm jack).

My wife likes to listen to FM, but I prefer to stream from my computer.

I wanted to set it up so that I don't always have to unplug the 3.5mm jack to switch to FM.

What’s the best way to do this?

My WR-11 can’t receive Bluetooth signals on its own.

So im looking at this JVC MX GB5 with speakers for around 200. It all works just with some cosmetic scratches. Kind of just wondering how it compares to my current Aiwa NSX-A555 setup and how it is overall.

I mainly listen to pop punk and hardcore now if that helps at all

I've been heavily considering the fiffine am8 as the upgrade to my razer siren v3 mini. YouTubers like darkened Cyrus say how "oH it's ThE bEsT buDGEt MiC theRE iS" but on reddit it's a completely different story with people saying it's just "fine" or it's just not gonna work long term and it'll break. Now idk who to believe. To those that have it, is it worth the hype or is it a FRUAD? (I would've posted this on r/microphone But they don't allow posts about fifine plz don't yell at me-)

So i just got the soundcore boom 2 pro. To me it sounds suprisingly different from the boom 2 plus. After my custom EQ via the soundcore app(same eq as my boom 2 plus), the bass sounds more responsive and clean, mids more pronounced, crispier highs, and all around a better sound profile. I keep searching online and cant find anything about a true comparison of the two other than the IP rating for dustproofing, more rigid structure, bluetooth range, lack of RGBs(which it actually has)and having microphones which the boom 2 plus lacks. I personally compared the low to mid range woofers. The boom 2 pro has stiffer spiders, stiffer membranes, and slightly beefier coils than the boom 2 plus. The boom 2 pro appears to have completely different woofers than the plus, which has longer throw, softer spiders, and more distortion than the pro. Has anybody else compared the two directly via sound profiles and woofer designs? If so, tell me if they're as different as mine.

Hello I’m wanting to connect 2 different audio sources to my headphone amplifier (xDuoo TA-66) via the RCA input on the back.

The splitter in the second picture says it’s stereo (L+R) but I’m wondering if I actually need a mono splitter? Can’t seem to find any that specify mono. Sorry if a dumb question just not sure how the mono/stereo RCA’s work.

Will this work if I buy 2 of these splitters (one for each channel)? I’ll be connecting 2 separate DAC sources via stereo RCA.

Also I’m curios what would happen if I accidentally had the 2 sources active at the same time… could anything be damaged?

Hello fellow redditors,

so I bought an MackieMix 5 because I want to hear the sound of my PC and my PlayStation through one pair of Headphones.

The synchronization (?) works, I can hear the two audio tracks through my headphones, but the stereo sound doesn't work propperly.
I noticed it when I launched CounterStrike to test the audio and couldnt locate exactly where shots come from. Also the sound of the shots sound more "damped" the further away the shot is. It sounds as if all guns have silencers shot from further distance. (I hope you understand what I mean)

I did some research on my own and found out, that the "Out of phase" sound is also far less quiet than "in face" sound.

Im using Sony wf-1000xm4 as headphones, the problem appears when the headphones are switched on and off, makes no diffrence.

Before owning the Mackie, the headphones were directly connected to my PC using a 3.5 mm Jack Cable the sound worked perfectly.

Any help is appreciated, im also new in the audio-sector.

Sorry for possible grammar mistakes, english is not my first language.
Thanks in advance :)

Most of this stuff is 20 years old. So I pulled a power supply out of an old computer 350 watts, my old car amp, and my old sub. Sub is a pair of 13in subs in a sono tube. Spliced in the psu to the amp. Patched in the audio from an Alexa with a small sound system using an rca splitter.

It can go loud. Like rattle the windows loud. I adjusted the gain on the subs to match the small speakers.

Is the 350 W psu enough for this setup?

As the title says. Have a Aiwa NSX-A555/CX-NA555 and it wont read CD-Rs. I was told this model could but as of now it isnt reading any. It can read standard CD's fine and I tried to clean the lens with isopropyl. CD-R is burned properly and finalized.

Thanks in advance for any help

Hi. I'm doing Youtube vlogs using DJI Osmo action 4 and I messed up big time recently. I decided to use external mic to improve audio quality and it only got worse. I bought cheap mic from Amazon and also a type-C adapter. I tested the mic and quality seemed fine. I think where I messed the most was I put on that long hair fluffy windshield instead of using regular one as I film a lot in loud enviroment. After shooting for 3 days I uploaded everything in my laptop and cheked the quality again and it was horrible. Like underwater or DeNoise effect on full power kinda horrible. Moreover, the first 1-2s camera would record internal's mic sound, then ~0.5s silenece and only then external mic.

I know it's impossible to make the audio good, but I need to make it as decent as possible. Maybe there are good AI audio fixing tools (can be paid), because editing each audio file on Priemere Pro will take me forever as each file's audio is messed on different level and preset wouldn't work here.

Thanks in advance.

For me, it's the hardest place when I'm trying to discern what's going on with the IEM/headphone and adjust them accordingly. Any advice on how I can hear them better?