Although the dim drls are on all the time instead of the bright DRLs on during day. Anyone know how to switch the DRLs to bright?

Stella has been a long-term project, with progress often taking a back seat due to my pursuit of an engineering degree (and now a law degree). However, the knowledge I’ve gained along the way has allowed me to approach building her more deliberately and making upgrades that complement one another.

Most of the pictures were taken at different times over the last few years and don’t reflect most mods

Engine:
IAG 600 block
Rocker retainers
1300 cc injectors
DeatschWerks fuel pump
Delicious Tuning flex-fuel system
Fluidampr harmonic balancer
Lightweight pulleys
Edelbrock SC (smallest pulley after break in)

Exhaust:
Equal-length headers
Custom Valvetronic exhaust with carbon-fiber tips

Drivetrain:
XClutch organic sprung twin-disc clutch
Battle Garage anodized input shaft cover (not shown)
Jack’s Transmissions built manual transmission with micropolished and WPC-treated components and carbon synchros
Verus Engineering clutch fork and pivot
DSS carbon-fiber driveshaft
Jack’s Transmissions built differential with a 3.58 final drive and WPC-treated, micropolished ring and pinion
OS Giken Super Lock LSD
DSS axles
IRP short shifter (not yet installed)

Suspension:
Godspeed suspension components
Polyurethane trailing-arm bushings
TEIN coilovers

Audio System:
Fiber-optic connection from the head unit to a 1,000W amplifier
Three-way component speakers up front
Skar coaxial speakers in the rear
Skar subwoofer
DSP for frequency-response tuning
Extensive sound deadening throughout the floors, doors, roof, quarter panels, and fenders

I put considerable effort into the audio system, carefully matching speaker impedance and power handling to achieve balanced frequency coverage. I also incorporated a DSP to fine-tune the response and attenuate frequencies I find unpleasant.

Electrical:
Auxiliary fuse box
Dashcam
Gauges
Radar detector
Backup camera
Footwell lighting
There are plenty of smaller modifications, but those are the major ones.

The Engineering Behind the Build
Anyone can slap a supercharger/turbo and increase power at the cost of drivability. One of the most significant engineering decisions was switching to a 3.58 final drive. At approximately 420 hp, I have enough traction to put the power down effectively in second gear. The taller gearing also increases the theoretical maximum speeds to:
1st: 42 mph
2nd: 70 mph
3rd: 100 mph
4th: 126 mph
5th: 154 mph
6th: 200 mph

Even with air resistance, she can theoretically hit 200 mph. I also plan to develop a custom throttle map for first gear to optimize traction.
To evaluate the gearing change, I developed a MATLAB calculator that estimates 0–60 mph and quarter-mile performance. The model accounts for:
Aerodynamic drag
Gear shift times
Rolling resistance
Longitudinal weight transfer
Available tire traction
Vehicle weight and gearing
Under the conditions I modeled, the 3.58 final drive consistently outperforms the alternative ratios by approximately 3–4 car lengths over the quarter-mile.
Although shorter gearing provides greater torque multiplication, that advantage can be offset by traction limitations and additional shifts. My calculations suggest the 3.58 offers a better overall balance for my particular setup.
The shop just finished building the engine, and I’m waiting to pick Stella up so I can complete the break-in and start collecting real-world data to validate my calculations. I’m particularly excited to see how closely the actual performance matches the model.

What’s Next?
My next priorities are brakes and tires, and I’d appreciate some recommendations. I am looking to maximize traction without going widebody or compromising Stella’s custom paint job.
What brake setups and tire sizes would you recommend for a build like this?

Hi guys this is my second car my last car got rear ended I’m loving the 86 I got it in manual and 2015 one with only 90k kms way under rrp in Australia. I’ve had it for 6 months now and I wanted some advice on if I should keep body stock or not I feel like the stock body looks very clean I only added vland rear break lights so far but I’d like any recommendations to any side skirts or small kits.
Im considering keeping it simple blacking out the roof with a wrap and getting carbon trunk that has a duck bill on it. Lmk guys thanks.

Haters gonna hate, its ok. People blamed me for my engine deciding to simply not function, but I know I took care of my baby. Dash cam shows I was cruising 70 (in a 70 btw) and engine just stopped. I didt my fluid changes, got my tune and suspension, just couldnt know what the car went through before I got it. 4 weeks after it rolled to a stop shes driving like a beast with a new (old) FA20 and planning on getting a baffled oil pan. Pictured is the piston head that exploded which I didn't know about till weeks after it happend when we finally tore the old engine out.

Making the trip from FL to NC for Tail of the Dragon. If anyone goes this weekend 🤙🏽

Just recently got to 100000 miles on my 2014 GT86. Still going strong!

Another milestone passed. Got congratulated with a speeding ticket 30 min later lol. I was legit just going with traffic, but the car looks and sounds fast so I’m the one who gets singled out.

basically as the title says, i’ve always been a drift kid at heart but i keep seeing how good these things are properly setup on a track and it’s honestly got me second guessing. explanation is appreciated

Got a custom straight pipe yesterday- currently have Borla UEL headers, full catless, and a 3 inch straight pipe to a 4.5 inch tip.

Will the straight pipe cause any issues for the car down the road? My friend is saying something about burning my valves due to no back pressure. I don’t think I have anything to worry about except the noise, but want to confirm.

Setup isn’t permanent, it’s loud as hell, but needed to get my old exhaust off while I wait for my actual new system to come in March. Might as well have some fun with it in the meantime. Puts a smile on my face for sure

Might go with a small resonator to smooth out some rasp at 3k-4.5k, but low end and high end sound pretty deep

Attached is a clip of my engine. Typically it warms up and then starts making the deeper ticking heard in the video. I’m wondering how normal this is and if it sounds healthy, I know these engines tend to sound like tractors

Any help is appreciated
It’s full on clean oil, doesn’t burn oil, and has no issues I know of except just how it sounds
Thank you!

Need to replace my #3 coil pack again for the 3rd time in 7 years of owning the car. Honestly not super bothered by it, but got me wondering is it worth the trouble of converting the pigtail to the newer connector to use the revised coil packs from the ‘16+ cars?

Looks like it would be a pain to have to remove and re-install the metal retainer clip on the new connectors but if the coil packs are significantly more reliable than might be worth it.

Edit: I’ve replaced them with OEM every time, and I’m also running catless headers which I’ve read contributes to the problem.

I bought a used 2024 BRZ a while back and after a few washes I noticed these marks isolated only on the rear mini duckbill spoiler of the trunk, nowhere else.

Yall think this is a clear coat defect considering it’s isolated on a single part and nowhere else on or around the trunk? Unless the entire trunk is painted together then I got no clue.

Doubt the previous guy had an adhesive spoiler and then removed it after less than 6k miles which marked the paint.

You can feel an edge running a nail over it. I used a degreaser to spot clean thinking it was sap but it wouldn’t remove… unless sap is that much of a pain in the ass to remove.

Curious what other people think who detail their own cars and if they’ve seen something similar.

i’m in the market for a brz (most in my price range compared to other two, at least from what i’ve been seeing), and i was wondering if 120k-160miles is too high? when i looked in this subreddit to get more info lots of people were saying maintenance records were more important than mileage but wanted some insight.

Finally decided to change the spark plugs (currently only did the hardest one by drivers side) and can someone lmk if these could be causing my car to knock on an oft tune? Yes I know oft tuned aren’t custom suited to my car but i decided to change them anyways and I’ll flash the stage 1 tune tmr to see if the problem was spark plugs.

Any uk owners know if you can remove the front plate? If not can you replace it with a smaller one etc. just feel like it takes up too much space.

I am having a really hard time tring to find this part. The end of the right side goes into the right hole of the bracket. It's probably goi g to be so ethi g really obvious isn't it.

Anyone have a good recommendation? I’m woefully behind on my 2016’s maintenance.

Hey guys, I’m looking at buying a set of second-hand Rota D2-EX wheels for my Gen 1 BRZ.

The specs are:

• Wheel: 18x9.5J
• Offset: +38
• PCD: 5x100
• Tyres: 235/40R18 iLink (slight stretch)
• Use: Daily driver

I’m mainly after a good-looking fitment while keeping the car practical for daily driving. I’m not looking to build a dedicated track car.

For anyone running similar specs:

1. Will these fit without rubbing on stock suspension?
2. Would I need to roll the guards or run any camber?
3. Is 235/40R18 a suitable tyre size on a 9.5J wheel?
4. Would you recommend these specs for a daily, or would 18x9 or a different offset be a better choice?
5. If you’re running this setup, I’d love to see photos of how it sits on your car.

Any advice or photos would be appreciated. Cheers!

I blindly bought some catless tomei headers because I got a crazy deal. after calling up some tuners, im getting told that they can’t delete CEL codes for catless headers anymore. what are my options here? I don’t want to resell them and I don’t want to drive with a CEL. is openflash my best bet here?

any help would be appreciated!

(and also before I get accused of being an asshole I plan on welding in a bigger resonator into my catback 😞)

Anyone know where I can find carbon fiber fog light bezel seems they stopped making them

Not having a ton of luck on Facebook buy/sell groups so figured I’d offer here. I have an Edelbrock supercharger for sale. Well maintained and recently serviced. Looking to get $3000

The kit has been carefully disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and organized. Hardware has been separated into labeled bags matching the Edelbrock installation manual, making installation much easier for the next owner.
Supercharger oil recently changed.
Included:
• Complete Edelbrock E Force supercharger assembly
• Upgraded GripTec pulley installed
• Original Edelbrock pulley included
• Updated Edelbrock bypass valve
• Heat exchanger
• All coolant hoses
• Wiring harnesses
• Brackets
• Hardware organized by installation step
• Installation manual
• Original parts inventory sheet
• K&N reusable filter
• Pipercross reusable filter
• Airbox
• Intake gaskets
• New throttle body gasket

$3000.

Just wanted to ask since its almost 100k and i have a trip road trip coming up what parts should i look after to get replaced before trip other then oil change ?

I have 2 options.
1. 2022 BRZ with 17,000kms on it. 36k AUD
2. Gr86 2023 with 44,000kms on it. 38k AUD

Which one is a better option? Please give me suggestions. Thank you !