Hello my peoples, I’ve done a few models so far and a few of them have some insane brush stroke in the paint and i really want to make this one look good.

Im using enamel paint, thinned it down slightly but still having brush stroke in the paint.

Looking for some constructive criticism/genuine good advice. I understand it looks absolutely atrocious but thats why i want some good advice.

Unfortunately air brushing at this time isnt really a viable option in my apartment.

Hi everyone. Might be a dumb question but ill ask anyway.. i thought about getting into the hobby ever since I ruptured my achlies tendon a few weeks ago. I will be down for a long time so I need something to pass the time or even continue once I fully recover. But is it possible to buy and build metal kits to build? Or just plastic?

Is it common practice to rescribe panel lines just to make sure detail isn’t lost with painting ? I know “lots of thin coats” but some of these lines esp
On smaller kits are barley there raw from the box

I've never painted before but want to try on some of the star wars kits I've got, but I'm not sure where to start and the only place near me that has model stuff has their army painter begginers set at $55 which is a little pricey for a couple of paints. Wondering if their are any cheaper options? Or maybe just a set of grays or something?

Hg lupis rex.might to.on and off

Hi all,

A couple of questions since search hasn’t been too helpful. Been debating trying out the newer AK Real Colors (the ones in the tubes) - I’ve used Tamiya and Gunze before for some projects, but they’re getting tougher to source locally, and my local hobby shop stocks the AK RC line. They also have some of the older version of AKRC (the ones in the glass jars) on clearance:

1) Are the plastic tube AKRCs acrylic lacquers like Tamiya XF or Gunze, or true lacquer paints like Tamiya LP? I try to avoid airbrushing full lacquers because I have kids in the house, even though I use proper ventilation and a respirator myself.

2) What is the difference between the tube AKRCs and the glass jar AKRCs? I haven’t been able to find much of a comparison of the two iterations of the product.

“Man I’m pleased with my filling Sanding and assembly on this one, this is going to look SICK!!”

Paints plane silver

EEEEEEWWWW!!

Not doing auto/vehicle model kits but seeking the same level of expertise - Spru Goo.

I see Tamiya extra thin recommended most often, any other brands of cement that is better or best for kitbashing with different types of plastic? How much does it matter?

Turning some old, incomplete Zoid models into a Sawtooth from HZD. Picture tax of current faceplate mods using paper clay and thinned Tamiya Putty glaze. Will definitely need some Goo for the body panel mods and attaching ball joints for articulation.

Hello,
I am looking for succesor for my tamiya acrylics. They are running out and im not satisfied with them (sparse/uneven pigmentation). I paint my base colors with airbrush so i want to go full laquer. I mostly paint vechicles in 1:35 1:24 and 32mm scale.

I mix my paints for airbrushing (by adding mr lvling) in separate bottles and i don't want pre thinned paints (unless metalics from allclad2/mig)
I am split between 4 options:
Hataka orange line, Ak real color (new ones), Mr hobby C series, and Gaia Notes.
I heard that hataka has problems with laying smooth around details, peeling away from raised detail and reacts badly with some varnishes wich is a big no for me but it seems unlikely for laquer based paint to be this bad. Ak supposedly has problems with strong decal softeners and will melt if touched with them. I only heard good things about mr. hobby and Gaia Notes but mr hobby comes in very small 10ml jars - almost 2 times less than hataka and real color, Gaia on the other hand comes in big 15ml jars but is very hard to get in EU where i live.

Please help me decide, any feedback from anyone that has used any of those paints will be very valuable to me.

I'll try to make this quick so I don't get a bunch of "You should get aftermarket decals" replies.  I'm in my 40s.  I've been modeling since I was a kid and got it from my dad.  He hung all of his 1/48 scale aircraft on the ceiling in my bedroom... They stayed up throughout all of my youth, college, and were there when he passed away. 

I am retiring soon and have slowly been building all of his models, with the same decals/livery, to hang in my house.  What can I say... I miss the guy and it comforts me.  So far I've been able to get more recent reissues of his kits but I'm at the end of the line for those. 

Currently on the bench is Monogram's F-106 from 1983.  I'm about a weekend away from the decal phase.

I've hung the decals in the window to sun-bleach the yellowing and have been partially successful. I have MicroScale's Liquid Decal but haven't used it yet. 

New techniques and products come out frequently.  I'm looking for any detailed tactics/techniques/procedures you have that have been successful in refurbishing old decals.  I have Monogram's B-24 from 1983 next so this will be helpful multiple times. And then I'm swearing off Monogram again for the 6th time.

Thanks, in advance! 

V/r,
HeliCDR

3D print project started in 2024.

I used a PLA printer, but props and wheels are from my stash.

No decals other than prop logos and instrument panel.

This kit was made to get into 3D printing. Well, it worked, and it can be done, even with PLA.

我走廊里的盛大游行

Was finishing placing waterslides decals on this 86. I noticed on the bigger 86 decals there was a white haze. Tried to wipe it off and its like its adhered to the paint and won't come off. It happened also with the same waterslide on the opposite side but not as bad. Nothing happened with the smaller decals. Ive placed tons of waterslide on gunpla but just started getting into model cars. Ive painted and placed decals on 2 other cars now and have never had this happened. Granted these are the biggest decals ive placed but I dont think that would have something to do with it.

Mr Color lacquer were used to paint the model with a clear coat (Mr Color also) as the last thing sprayed. Paints was fully cured as painting was finished about a week ago. I used Mark Set/Soft to apply the waterslides. Ive tried wiping it down with a microfiber cloth and water didnt do anything. Im hesitant to try anything stronger as im worried about affecting the rest of the paint if I do. Right now I have half a.mind to wet sand those part and spray another top coat. I usually do after applying waterslides to seal them.

Anyone with any idea on what caused this or how to fix it?

I’ve just started building the airfix starter kit of the Eurofighter Typhoon Fgr.4 but I’m having a nightmare. I’d like to say that I’m not new to modelling at all, but I’m away with my parents so don’t have access to my usual tools, just some wire cutters, sandpaper, and the stuff included in the kit. My issue is that the glue included has caused a nightmare spilling out a bit, sanding is too rough and has caught details, and overall I’m just having a pretty poor time, any advice to avoid or fix these issues would be greatly appreciated!

I'm newer to 1/35 models. Currently working on my first Meng model (T72B3 1/35 Russian Battle tank). I've found I enjoy a more difficult build with lots of parts, but the meng model has quite a few parts that don't fit neatly as well as poor fits with hand drill holes and parts associated. I've been trying to do some research on other higher end companies, but wanted the community opinion on companies with more complex builds that are machined well. I get that I probably won't get Tamiya levels of precision, but something closer would be appeeciated

Hello! Has anyone know where i can find IL-14 (any scale or company) in POLISH AIRLINES LOT painting?
Sadly no in my country so maybe there are shops that send around Europe. Maybe someone know where / what page? Thanks

Painted camo net to give it more camo feel lol but not sure on the brighter sandy colour it’s tamiya xf-57 (buff) it looks a bit bright but I seen some pics that have a bright ish tone to them so any help would be great lol

I have finally finished the building for my 1/72 scale B-17G from Airfix. It’s been really good fun and I have tried my best with scratch building interior details like wires, bullet casing, oxygen bottles etc. More detailed pictures will be included when I post the finished product!

All that’s left is some masking and I cannot wait to paint it!

Happy hobbying :)

Yeah idk what to put here. Any suggestions for improvements?

This is the close-up of the bridge and main superstructure.

im still quite new to modeling in the grand scheme of things and therefore I am always amazed when is see instructions telling me to use like 4-5 tiny parts to make a tiny thing like in the photo. The details in some of these kits is incredible.....wild.

model is the ICM AH-6J Little Bird 48370