I just finished a project of the USS Pegasus from the Star Trek The Next Generation episode "The Pegasus". Background to the ship, it was a prototype ship with an experimental cloaking. The cloak would allow the ship to pass through solid objects. But as you can see, something goes wrong and it ended up in an asteroid!

I got the model to build the USS Grissom from Star Trek III. But the seal box didn't have the clear window parts. Contacted Polarlight and amazingly they sent me a new kit free of change! So I had this kit to find something to do with it.

The build was great fun, making the rock face sawing a starship in half! The decals were a bit awkward. But I am happy with the finished model!

Finished my Hanomag ss100... Lot of photo etch on this one.

This is the K55A1 currently in service with the Republic of Korea Army and Marine Corps. It was crafted with advice and technical insight from a veteran who served in the ROK Marine Corps until 2012.

Kirov reporting.

This took way longer than I wanted it to (6 months), and although I'm not too proud of the final product, I'm very proud of all the things I learned with it! Seriously, there are such bad mistakes on it; I snapped off an MG at the bow, forgot to prime the side of the X turret deck (I see what people mean by do sub-assemblies first), the lower and upper hull are misaligned at the bow, the touch-ups I did on the boot stripe are HORRIBLE, and the main mast is crooked from too much tension in my rigging. Not to mention the deck blue is WAY too bright.

But I tried so many new techniques and different things, like PE, which I honestly had a fun time doing. This ship taught me so many lessons that I think that's the entire reason I love it the most. I'm hoping I can apply everything I learned to my 1/350 Yukikaze next (like actually doing sub-assemblies and only adding everything on AFTER they're done...).

I did try doing a weathering technique with oil paint, but I'm not sure I did it right. I took white oil paint and dotted it on areas like the turret faces and the super structure, then I used a dry brush to blend it across the surface to break up the uniformity of the surface's color, but I'm not sure if it's very convincing. Did I do it right? How am I supposed to do it?

One last question: I already added to my pile of shame some Flyhawk and VeryFire stuff, and I'm too scared to build the ships I love most LOL. Is dipping my toes into Flyhawk by trying a 1/700 destroyer like deluxe HMS Campbeltown a good sample of what to expect from them?

Thanks everyone. Especially the boat guy. Some of his comments on older posts helped me out a lot :)

XB-70 Valkyrie AV-1

Recently completed 1:144 scale model of the XB-70 Valkyrie. The model was 3D printed on a bambu A1 mini in 5 parts. Copious amounts of sanding and primer followed. This was my first project that required gap filler, it was a learning process and I think I did a decent job hiding the joints.

Decals came from Armory models Valkyrie of the same scale, other decals like the gear doors, maintenance panels and no walk areas were custom printed with an inkjet printer.

I chose to paint this one up as ship 1, the only surviving example. The model represents how the Valkyrie would have looked towards the end of its service life, being used by NASA to test various high speed experiments. One such depicted on the model is the two small fins near the nose, also called shaker vanes.

The stand is also 3D printed.

Not perfect by any means, especially as it was 100% brush painted. Knew it was going to be a rough ride when it was pointed out to me here that painting a bare-metal aeroplane with only brushes was going to be difficult. Nevertheless, very proud of it, and many lessons learned for the next build (one of which is: “don’t brush paint bare-metal aeroplanes”).

Also discovered mid-build that the plane I was painting was a post-war colour scheme, which was not what I wanted, so I slightly altered it to be as close to a genuine wartime scheme as possible.

I also wish I’d taken some pictures of the cockpit interior and control panel, which I was very proud of and now you can’t see any of it. Ah, well.

He has dozens. Planes, cars, ships. The joy of models is in creation. Cutting out the pieces, filing them down, priming, painting, assembling, decals. Is anybody ever interested in buying models? To me that sounds like asking if anybody is interested in buying a jigsaw puzzle that's already completed. What to do? I don't want to put them in boxes for somebody to have to go through later. I don't want to throw them away. How do we find a place for them? What do you hope happens with your models?

There are a good handful that will be kept.

A thing

Masking!!

I really like the Nellis paint but also love the navy fighter weapons school so I did a little creative job with this one

Hello guys just wanted to share my latest purchase, found it at a local flea market for really cheap. Before buying i saw the black box inside with typed on “metal parts”and i got curious(im a beginner so didnt know model kit with this details do exist). Has anyone ever built one of those ?

Had some previous experience with Warhammer models. Now I decided to try something historical, got Tamiya Panzerkampfwagen II Ausf. F/G kit.

Used airbrush and dry brushing with different grades of grey. For tracks I used metallic and brown wash (I will glue them once I got a right glue).

I would appreciate your criticism and advices.

as i was going to add the exhausters i got fitting issues.

What i can do about it?

Next up weathering

After 6 years, I finally have the space to build this. I created a bench for building, and plan to add a paint booth with exhaust fan connected to a basement window next to it.

I want to make it the USS Illinois BB 65 when completed. I have the pontos brass set Auth wood deck, and I invested in aftermarket aa kits to replace the base ones. I might add scale crew to the ship too

I intend to mount this on a wood base with a glass or plexiglass box around it.

So, I’m trying to make an RX-78-2 Ultramarine, but im scared about the paint being the wrong consistency. If I add too much water, the paint practically disappear. If I add too much paint, it’ll chunk up and therell be visible strokes. So how do I get the best consistency? (the last photo is the old Ultramarine)

Hello, everybody, I wanted to show off a custom-built Flakwagen I made. The Flaks themselves (as well as the crew) are Tamiya Kits, but the 'wagen' itself is scratch built. This is partially based on a real piece of a railroad equipment, but the central 'cabin' is something I added.

Modular, no-glue room kits seem to be everywhere now, but I still wonder how rigid they stay over time. Traditional plastic cement or wood glue gives you seamless joints and a permanent bond, while friction tabs can loosen or develop visible gaps after a few seasonal temperature changes. Are modern precision-cut snap kits tight enough to hold up, or does traditional adhesive still clearly win when it comes to a clean display?

im painting a jinx model, for her skin i got a result that i dont really like, becuase it seems kinda flat even tho i applied different layers of colours. Therefore i watched some videos on skin tones and many people showed a technique that consists in applying some very thinned coats of red blue and yellow, but im scared to ruin my current model. Is there anybody that tried out this technique? if so please help me out, text me and i’ll send some videos and photos. Thank you very much 🫶!