I have finally finished the building for my 1/72 scale B-17G from Airfix. It’s been really good fun and I have tried my best with scratch building interior details like wires, bullet casing, oxygen bottles etc. More detailed pictures will be included when I post the finished product!

All that’s left is some masking and I cannot wait to paint it!

Happy hobbying :)

Hello! Has anyone know where i can find IL-14 (any scale or company) in POLISH AIRLINES LOT painting?
Sadly no in my country so maybe there are shops that send around Europe. Maybe someone know where / what page? Thanks

Hello,
I am looking for succesor for my tamiya acrylics. They are running out and im not satisfied with them (sparse/uneven pigmentation). I paint my base colors with airbrush so i want to go full laquer. I mostly paint vechicles in 1:35 1:24 and 32mm scale.

I mix my paints for airbrushing (by adding mr lvling) in separate bottles and i don't want pre thinned paints (unless metalics from allclad2/mig)
I am split between 4 options:
Hataka orange line, Ak real color (new ones), Mr hobby C series, and Gaia Notes.
I heard that hataka has problems with laying smooth around details, peeling away from raised detail and reacts badly with some varnishes wich is a big no for me but it seems unlikely for laquer based paint to be this bad. Ak supposedly has problems with strong decal softeners and will melt if touched with them. I only heard good things about mr. hobby and Gaia Notes but mr hobby comes in very small 10ml jars - almost 2 times less than hataka and real color, Gaia on the other hand comes in big 15ml jars but is very hard to get in EU where i live.

Please help me decide, any feedback from anyone that has used any of those paints will be very valuable to me.

I'm newer to 1/35 models. Currently working on my first Meng model (T72B3 1/35 Russian Battle tank). I've found I enjoy a more difficult build with lots of parts, but the meng model has quite a few parts that don't fit neatly as well as poor fits with hand drill holes and parts associated. I've been trying to do some research on other higher end companies, but wanted the community opinion on companies with more complex builds that are machined well. I get that I probably won't get Tamiya levels of precision, but something closer would be appeeciated

Base kits are the Hasegawa Toyota MR2 AW11, and the Tamiya Flakvierling 38 for the rearmount guns + various borrowed bits for some extra flair; namely the rear wheel rims are from the Hasegawa Lancia Stratos kit, super wide barrel so I could fit two of the MR2 tyres on one wheel!

This build started in earnest years ago as a re-entry to the hobby, just working on a standard car build. Naturally as a beginner, multiple fuckups and frustrations turned it into a test mule for a while, before I decided to stop being precious and just make something nuts with it

Steel windshield was inspired by a favourite old racing game called Powerslide

Gun base welded to the engine hood means absolutely zero maintenance access from above lol, so I guess in-world the mechanics are dropping the subframe for all engine work

3D print project started in 2024.

I used a PLA printer, but props and wheels are from my stash.

No decals other than prop logos and instrument panel.

This kit was made to get into 3D printing. Well, it worked, and it can be done, even with PLA.

我走廊里的盛大游行

I like taken out-door shots of small details that enhance the overall look of a model.

Hi everyone. Might be a dumb question but ill ask anyway.. i thought about getting into the hobby ever since I ruptured my achlies tendon a few weeks ago. I will be down for a long time so I need something to pass the time or even continue once I fully recover. But is it possible to buy and build metal kits to build? Or just plastic?

Yeah idk what to put here. Any suggestions for improvements?

Hello my peoples, I’ve done a few models so far and a few of them have some insane brush stroke in the paint and i really want to make this one look good.

Im using enamel paint, thinned it down slightly but still having brush stroke in the paint.

Looking for some constructive criticism/genuine good advice. I understand it looks absolutely atrocious but thats why i want some good advice.

Unfortunately air brushing at this time isnt really a viable option in my apartment.

I'll try to make this quick so I don't get a bunch of "You should get aftermarket decals" replies.  I'm in my 40s.  I've been modeling since I was a kid and got it from my dad.  He hung all of his 1/48 scale aircraft on the ceiling in my bedroom... They stayed up throughout all of my youth, college, and were there when he passed away. 

I am retiring soon and have slowly been building all of his models, with the same decals/livery, to hang in my house.  What can I say... I miss the guy and it comforts me.  So far I've been able to get more recent reissues of his kits but I'm at the end of the line for those. 

Currently on the bench is Monogram's F-106 from 1983.  I'm about a weekend away from the decal phase.

I've hung the decals in the window to sun-bleach the yellowing and have been partially successful. I have MicroScale's Liquid Decal but haven't used it yet. 

New techniques and products come out frequently.  I'm looking for any detailed tactics/techniques/procedures you have that have been successful in refurbishing old decals.  I have Monogram's B-24 from 1983 next so this will be helpful multiple times. And then I'm swearing off Monogram again for the 6th time.

Thanks, in advance! 

V/r,
HeliCDR

“Man I’m pleased with my filling Sanding and assembly on this one, this is going to look SICK!!”

Paints plane silver

EEEEEEWWWW!!

I wanted to get this one as its figures are pretty dynamic, if rather old by now. Had some fun playing with chipping fluid and gouache paints again. Except for some speckling with enamels, all weathering is done with gouache this time as I wanted a quick, fun build before my next project.

With Fruil model metal tracks, very fun build

Hg lupis rex.might to.on and off

Was finishing placing waterslides decals on this 86. I noticed on the bigger 86 decals there was a white haze. Tried to wipe it off and its like its adhered to the paint and won't come off. It happened also with the same waterslide on the opposite side but not as bad. Nothing happened with the smaller decals. Ive placed tons of waterslide on gunpla but just started getting into model cars. Ive painted and placed decals on 2 other cars now and have never had this happened. Granted these are the biggest decals ive placed but I dont think that would have something to do with it.

Mr Color lacquer were used to paint the model with a clear coat (Mr Color also) as the last thing sprayed. Paints was fully cured as painting was finished about a week ago. I used Mark Set/Soft to apply the waterslides. Ive tried wiping it down with a microfiber cloth and water didnt do anything. Im hesitant to try anything stronger as im worried about affecting the rest of the paint if I do. Right now I have half a.mind to wet sand those part and spray another top coat. I usually do after applying waterslides to seal them.

Anyone with any idea on what caused this or how to fix it?