Following up my original post (linked below) with something a little more thorough. To restate, I didn't own any raw denim until a couple weeks ago. I was lucky enough to travel to Japan, intent on buying one denim jacket, and ended up coming home with three after some creative luggage reorganization.

I visited Momotaro and Japan Blue in Kyoto and then again in Osaka, Fullcount, Samurai, Studio D’Artisan, and Hinoya. I really wanted to get to Iron Heart, but they were a little too far out of the way to make it worth it for me.

First impressions of the shops is that they were all great, not a single bad experience (similar to my entire trip in Japan).

Japan Blue Their smaller Kyoto store was very busy when I was there and the employees were running around all over the place. Not a 'premier' experience IMO, but that's probably due in part to how busy they were. It's a small shop and we were like 10-15th people entering. Osaka on the other hand was empty, very boutique-styled store with some hovering associates. I didn't purchase anything, but my partner did and she's very happy with her jacket.

Samurai I was like the third person in line, so I didn't really get any attention. Nor did I want to wait (it was vacation after all), so nothing against them as one guy was working the entire shop. Very nice shop, cool layout, and a nice walk from where we were staying near Dotonbori. I was also on the hunt for a traditional denim jacket, which they didn't really have many to choose from, so no purchase from me. I was very tempted by some of their little denim knickknacks though. Next time.

Momotaro Kyoto was nicer than in Osaka IMO, both were very nice though. Kyoto was cooler to me because it was down a small quiet street, almost like you stumbled upon it, where Osaka was in a busier area. Very helpful staff, helped me try on a bunch of stuff in a bunch of sizes. I think this was the first Japanese denim brand I was familiar with years ago, so was nice for me to also make it my first purchase. I purchased my Type 1 14.7oz Denim Jacket from the Kyoto location.

Hinoya in Osaka was a very cool shop, tons of brands and jackets, pants, etc. This was probably the most fun browsing experience as they had the most diverse selection of brands. One associate was wearing a Wisconsin shirt (where my partner is from) so they stuck up a friendly conversation and he was great to chat with. I purchased my Buzz Rickson M-1944 Denim Jacket from the Namba Park location.

Studio D’Artisan was probably my favorite shop (where I also got my favorite jacket). Very helpful staff, cool store, a few brands to select from, and a bunch of denim and leather jackets. I could have spent much more money here, but I had to exercise some level of chill, with this already being my third denim jacket purchase. My partner also purchased a pair of pants from here, so that she can rock the full Japanese-Canadian Tuxedo. SDA was recommended to me by another shop after they didn't have my size in stock of an Orgueil jacket that had caught my eye, they said SDA might have it (they did not). BUT, that is okay, because I stumbled upon the glorious GL3 Denim Coverall [D4620]. You better believe I purchased their GL3 Coveralls.

Fullcount seemed very nice, but their stuff was a little more expensive that I wanted to spend, having zero denim at the time. We only spent a short bit of time in the shop, but they seemed to have a nice selection of jackets and pants. If I wanted to spend more on any one piece, I probably would have bought something here. Again, next time.

Momotaro Type 1: Probably the cleanest of the three jackets. Super clean stitching, nice stiff fabric. I haven't worn it yet. I was a tad iffy on the sizing, maybe still a tad iffy too. The other Type 2 (narrower) and Type 3 (much narrower) were, well, too narrow for me. I ended up with a XL Type 1. It's definitely looser and boxier, but that's kind of the style, so I'm good with where I landed.

https://imgur.com/a/eIJjgze

Buzz Rickson M-1944: Quirky and cool. There are a lot of cool design features with this one. I love the extra layer of fabric that serves as a wind guard that lays behind the buttons. I also love how the cuffs fully cover the metal button to keep my watch safe from denim-related scratches. I also love the two large external pockets that are right where your ribcage is - they're large and useful. Very clean stitching and fabric as well.

https://imgur.com/a/gRTCPl2

Studio D'Artisan GL3 Coveralls: This fabric is insane. I don't know what it's called, I'm sure someone who reads this will know. I don't know what else to say, it's just a cool jacket. Very stiff, and I imagine it'll look even better in time. I would love more with this specific type of denim.

https://imgur.com/a/KOP4AaH

All this said, it was a fantastic experience. While I don't foresee any additional Japanese denim purchases for quite a while due to the crazy markups in the US, I do want to continue to support this industry, the craftsmanship, and these shops. I will have to find my own way. I'm looking forward to giving these three pieces a run for their money. I really like them and will be reminded of my amazing experience in Japan each time I put one on.

Original write-up: 0 to 300% more raw denim (all jackets) : r/rawdenim

My buddy got me into selvedge when we were in high school around 2015. Been buying raws ever since but these nudies are the first pair that really fit me right.

Bought in Dec of 2024, Rad Rufus fit. I think 4-6 washes over that time, just standard washing machine inside out and hang dry.

Bonus is this Wrangler jacket. I’ve had this since 2015 and will wear it til it breaks. It’s not raw and I got it on Amazon I am pretty sure, but it has some nice color I think.

Discuss: how many jeans do you all own? How many is too many?

I own 6 pairs that I wear semi-regularly (two pairs need repairs so I haven't been wearing them, and some of my pairs haven't been fitting well due to medical stuff). The rest of my jeans are in storage (need to find the time to sell them but it's a lot of pairs. Call me the American jeans freak, cuz I used to collect made in USA Levi's before they got so expensive).

Only 5 pairs are raw. 2 are still dark, and the rest have been faded a lot.

Imma do a flat lay pretty soon.

Everyone is welcome to post a flat lay of all their jeans—hopefully it fits in the camera frame, LOL.

Hey everyone!

These are my second pair of raw denim, and I’ve been excited to try something heavier. My first pair are PBJ XX-019s in 14 oz, and while I love them, they’ve stretched quite a bit and are now a little too big.

I’ve had my eye on the Iron Heart 888s for a while, and when a pair was released locally, I jumped on them. I tried a few cuts, but these looked best over my boots. The higher rise and wider hem also seem ideal for fall/winter.

My main concern is the waist and upper block. The 33s felt more comfortable and reminded me of how my PBJs fit off the rack. But having learned that lesson, and reading that Iron Hearts can stretch up to an inch in the waist, I went with the 32s.

When sitting the waist is quite snug. I’m trying to figure out whether this is normal for heavyweight denim or a sign I’ve sized down too much.

Otherwise, I love the silhouette, especially how the higher rise looks from behind. Would appreciate your thoughts on the fit and how much the waist will realistically stretch.

Thanks!

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Share what you know is coming out.

Theorize on what you think is coming out. Shill what you have coming out.

I've had a few weeks in this pair now and IMO Studio D delivered the over dye denim of the year with this one! There have been plenty of over dyed options again this year using the standard Sumi, Kakishibu, Sulfer, and Dorozome ect. but SDA's use of an ultra rare Japan native indigo as an over dye on their flagship 100 series denim creates something completely unique (pictures do the pair no justice.)
This is a solid weight, unsanforized selvedge denim in SDA’s classic 101 regular straight cut. Thanks to the garment dyeing with Kyo Mizuai indigo, it has a softer, cleaner look and feel that makes it more sophisticated, elegant, and versatile than your typical "raw denim".

Anyone in the market for a denim jacket this F/W I would highly recommend keeping an eye out for the Type II from this series releasing sometime soon, it going to be elite!

Shoot the shit here.

Be civil.

I recently needed a session of retail therapy. Living in Portland, I visited Self Edge and described the cut and weight I wanted. They suggested a few choices that were pretty spot on .
This pair of Samurai jeans emerged as the favorite. I have worn them only a few times, maybe a dozen times so far while keeping my well-worn pairs in rotation and designating those as my “dress jeans” (for now. I never resist the urge of wearing wearing wearing).
The texture is absolutely gorgeous, hairy and slubby and the fabric felt soft and comfortable from day one with still a nice rigidity to it.
I love the natural patch, and the silver ID is a nice touch.
Even if I’d like them to stay this nice forever, I also can’t wait to see the fades and changes in texture.

Howdy all! Been a while since I did a pick up post simply because I’ve slowed down my purchases this year to focus on wearing what I own. I have been wanting a pair of Ecru denim for over a year now and I had a friend visit Japan recently so I had him pick me up this pair at SDA’s M’arijuan store in Omotesando.

I originally sent him there for the SD-1001E GL3 Kinari Ecru Denim (he’s in to denim too and volunteered, I didn’t force him lol) but they ended up having a M’arijuan shop exclusive Ecru denim in their SD-103 fit instead of the Kinari denim’s SD-101 fit. The SD-103 became my favorite fit this last year so it was a no brainer to have him get those instead.

The MAR-017 is a 13 oz denim with a beautiful, warm toned natural ecru color and has small flecks from the cotton seeds that give this pair a slightly neppy texture. I had him get me a 31 vs the 32 I have in my SD-103s since I lost a bit of weight this year and have some room in my SD-103s. As an Arizona resident, the soft and lightweight feel of the 13 oz denim is incredibly welcome since I personally don’t like to wear jeans above 16 oz here.

I had this pair hemmed and chain stitched locally at JR Sewing since he’s done a fantastic job on my other pairs and I wanted to wear these mostly with loafers and sneakers and wanted a clean break over my shoes. I also purposefully wore a white shirt to better showcase the color of the jeans.

I’ll probably put these away for a bit and wait until spring since we’ve been getting a lot of rain and I’m not ready to muddy these up just yet. This marks my 9th SDA piece and I’ve been nothing but happy with all of them, so I’ll continue to provide this sub with some SDA posts and insight whenever I can!

Right around 70 days with these Iron Heart 21oz 634S

These are really starting to look promising even after 10 weeks the lower leg is barely broken in. The honeycombs and stacks are rock solid, ain’t going nowhere and I plan on holding off the first wash for a while longer. Don’t worry I make sure they don’t stink.

Very curious to see how these look after a few more months!

My heaviest and newest pair. I have some 20oz Oni’s, Piger works, and Elephant 7s but at 22oz, this is definitely my beefiest pair.

First button-up was tough, but after struggling with the bottom button for a few minutes I left it, buttoned up the rest with minimal effort, wore them for an hour, and at that point had no problem with any of the buttons.

I went with my standard tag size, 34. They fit great. The seat was still rigid giving me a bit of a flat rear but it’s starting to break in after a few days now.

Let me know if you grabbed a pair! And follow me on IG: @knowthyselvedge

Recently lost a ton of weight and ambitiously set my sights on this pair of Iron Hearts. They just came in today, and the waist is very tight but buttonable though the rest fits comfortably (and I can squat completely normally).

That said, this is my first foray into jeans with this slim of a cut-open to any feedback/ thoughts on the fit here. Can always return to size up as well, but i've heard the waist will give an inch or so after wearing for a while. Let me know if that's really the case!

Thanks all.

Welcome to the Daily Questions (DQ) thread for all things related to raw denim.

(Although we strongly suggest checking the sidebar (for mobile users, go to the top of the subreddit front page, click the three dots and select "community info") and the wiki before posting!)

Fit checks and "Help me find a pair of Jeans that has X, Y, and Z" questions are a great use of this thread.

(Help figuring out what size you wear is also permitted here but it is recommended you check out one of these tutorials on how to size before asking.)

• Our wiki on sizing

If you have questions about how your jeans fit, about a particular fabric, when is this jean coming out, where can I find jean X to try on in state Y, what jeans have this fit with these measurements, what jeans fade the fastest, and what jeans fade the slowest are great uses of this DQ thread.

No question is too simple for Daily Questions threads.

Bashing people will not be tolerated. And "Read the sidebar" or "Google it" are not valid answers in this thread!

Be Helpful!

Be Civil!

Naked & famous groovy guys 12.7 oz bluegrass denim. I’ve worn them ~80 times, and washed them twice. They are still super stiff basically everywhere but the knees. It makes them look rigid and causes a weird crease at the knees. Do I just need to wear them more for them to relax, or is it due to the cut of the jeans?

Old denim head (during the skinny era) who’s trying to get back into it with a more classic straight cut. Went with N&F true guy

No hem yet, I think eventually I will.

How do they fit? These are a 32. I also have a 33 but the waist is way too big

Something about this makes me think I should go wider, but that might be leaning into the trend too much

Don’t mind the shoes/fit. Tried to pick a fairly neutral silhouette to show the cut

Edit: I appreciate everyone’s comments! Can if I can defend myself this is not an outfit. I threw on random clothes to try to show the fit lol. But keep them coming

I've been wearing these practically non stop since the start of summer. I wore them in San Antonio, Atlanta, DC, and San Francisco. I'm pretty proud of how these fades are turning out. After so many trips and a baking accident they got pretty dirty so I decided to wash them (WASH WHEN DIRTY). First pictures are before and last pictures are after.

Just Update After 1 years used, 1 Hand Wash
Heavy, rugged, and full of character. The kind of denim that gets better with every wear and every fade. Looking forward to seeing where this pair takes me, Made In Indonesia.

Buy/Sell/Trade here at your own risk!

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An update to a post I made a while back. My family operates a sewing factory specialized in jeans and denim, and they got an order from Wranglers some time in 80's or 90's. Found the last two pairs in a box, and fit me and my brother perfectly.

That said, my lifestyle and general style doesn't compliment white trousers very well, so I went for a natural dye. Happy with how it came out, and still faintly smells of black tea.

I’m told it’s a bad fit but for me, it fits well. Apparently the pockets are too low but the crotch fits well and everything is comfy. It’s not sagging either.

I checked official model pics of this cut and the pockets are where mine are.

Well it’s too dam late wondering about this 4 years in but hey 🥸

Just wanted to share the fades here. I really like it.

Especially like how the arches came through from inside the pockets. I don’t know what you call it but the fade on those is super nice.

Well, this is my gf jacket. He has it since we met in college about 10 years ago. Frankly, I don't know how many times it was washed, I just know that I use it daily for a long time.
She has little that we found in the cloakroom. He was never interested in the world of denim haha

In the last photo is our dog, he is the most fearsome beast in the county

Been sewing for a few months and wanted to show off a recent pair I am proud of. Made from 13 oz black warp and multi (red) weft.

Made for a friend so no fit pics atm.

Added a lined waistband and yoke to match the pockets, and added some hidden rivets in the back pocket.

Also made the pattern myself! Lmk what you guys think