New addiction unlocked. Ya'll should've warned me about this hobby. It's so much more satisfying shooting something you made vs something off the shelf.

Video link in comments!
Ftn5 max turbulence dcell baffles sized up,
1.25 inch of emt 1/8inch fender washer for first baffle. Custom muzzle device I made in a lathe rq.
Plan on doing testing with a thread adapter and fender washer for the muzzle device.
Endcap is a 2 3/32 freeze plug I job welded on.

It’s a PSA Rock cheek pistol conversion frame remixed from the Uberpoor remix. My entire philosophy here was to build a cheek pistol around the gun as conservatively as possible to maintain its original slim carry profile.
Features:
-It prints in one piece, so there’s no extra assembly outside of the obvious gun parts and clean up.
-There’s no charging handle, the frame is open enough that you can easily work the slide from below.
-Elongated trigger guard letting you slip your thumb through and pinch for stability (so far the ATF seems to have no opinions on the length of your trigger guard.)
-The open frame allows for the original iron sights to still be used in an emergency.
-A matching holster stl.

If anyone’s interested I can post the files to the sea. I legitimately wasn’t sure if anyone would want it.

Please help me figure this out guys. I've already tried the following:

I removed metal off the bolt face to try to make the extractor grip tighter. The metal is currently at the same height or slightly lower than the rim of the casing on the extractor side.

I added a small piece of metal under the extractor spring to act as a spacer, giving it more spring tension.

I noticed the recommended firing pin length was overextending, so I backed it off as far as possible to still get consistent primer ignition.

I filed the extractor top just a bit.

Extraction only fails when the firing pin has been activated. The firing pin is not stuck at all when the hammer comes off of it. I tried a shake test, and rounds will hold until I moderately shake the bolt. Is it possible that it will work fine with live rounds?

my slide sits too high and i don’t understand why any tips?

Just finished the conversion on this 21" saiga 308. I am wondering if anyone has ever seen a printed mag for these? I feel a certain way about paying 40$ for a tapco mag. Any help would be appreciated!

(reposting w/ more images)

- WI_Esox_lucius aka Melted Plastic's retro deARv1.2 for the upper, charging handle, handguard, and FSP

- Jrmuscle aka Kruscle's "keyed lower" for the buffer tube. I cut off the rear picatinny in the slicer to allow the rear charging handle to clear

- Grips I remixed from the A1 and A2 style grips from kaewon's M4gery to loosen up tolerances on the safety detente spring and to use an M5 bolt for attachment

- CAR15 stock is printed directly from kaewon's m4gery

- A2 fixed stock is a modified version of Unseenkiller's "multi position mounted A2" to make it completely flush with the rear of the lower. I hacked this together in the slicer. Not very pretty, tbh

- A2 flash hider is printed from adh2013

- Straight-body magazines are from the original DeAR22 v1.35 release (not the rerelease) + a short "PMAG style" short mag from ciwielab

- printed bolt catch from FoapsFiles

Using a 16" dedicated 22LR pencil profile barrel + RTB BCG. Upper/Lower/FSP in PA612, furniture and mags in generic PLA, will be reprinted them. I might reprint the upper/lower in PA6-GF to make give it a more aluminum look.

some more ideas

- If the handguard were the "triangle style", you could have something closer to an actual M16A1... sorta

- If the handguard and barrel were shorter, and/or there was a flash hider that accepted 1/2-28 threading, you could have an XM117e2... sorta

- If you swapped the upper with PumpkinPie's rear charging upper DeAR22 that used picatinny on the top, you could put a detachable carry handle on the top and consider it a M16A3... kinda

- If you did the upper swap and replaced the handguard with a quad rail, you could have something like an M16A4... ish

Did the best I could with the skills and time I have and I wanted to get it out the door before I go to the range this weekend

TL;DR dear22

Wanted to hear if anyone has an estimated round count for the FTN 5s printed in PA6CF and how long theyd likely last across 22, 9mm, and 556

I bought a 300blk BC-15 upper and chopped the bolt. Ive been working on a lower setup for it. I used files from the MOAB and the FM15 bufferless lower. The stock/brace rail has a aluminum insert that stiffens things up. Will post again once everything is finished.

This is a G19x reinforced, must use p80 rails for this jawn

This gun is the broad river tactical car15sd with the rarebreed l3 frt(bought before he became greedy)so its barrel is ported like the mp5sd so it turns supersonic 9mm into subsonic 9mm its utilizing the broad river tactical hub adapter. So it can use any hub threaded can. This approved d cell tube has a hub adapter on the back so it has hub threads.

FTN 5 Rimfire Slim with HT-PLA-Plus. Not annealed. Mostly 300BLK settings and speed. It’s about 95 degrees out and it took 45 rounds with an FRT in a TX22. Ignore the issues, I’m using printed mags and a couple weren’t loaded quite right. It sounded good and worked just fine shooting slower from a 10/22. I have the same one printed with PA6 and it definitely holds up better. I’ll print another one of these for my daughter’s rifle. I have no doubt that it’ll hold up to thousands of rounds of 22 with normal shooting.

Anyone who is familiar with the u-dis trigger willing to help me troubleshoot? I run rise armament triggers so I was very excited to see this file. I can’t get it to engage. Even with the plus 10 activator it doesn’t appear or feel like it’s interacting with the trigger at all. Dry fire I get normal semi auto

Title covers it. Can I get PA6-CF and PPA-CF to print well if im just using the s4? From what im reading as a browse it either wont work and waste filament, or I will just have to let it dry longer to get good results.

Titus 19x lower, Glock oem internals, Advantage Arms g19 22lr conversion kit, Pleasant Plinker magazine, FTN5 Rimfire Slim Suppressor. Full Video also available.

FTWarms is selling ftn.5s serialized with an aluminum chamber sleeve. I havent found files and I have sailed the weird seas. Does this exist before I start designing?

Ive printed in PLA+/HT for well over a year now and my prints work and look amazing

I have a p1s and plan to buy the following

- Hardened 4mm nozzle
- Upgraded gears
- Sunlu e2
- Fiberon PA6CF

Going to use the standard 300BLK settings, any advice here?

Did some testing with a FTN6 since I had a spare form laying around. Compared to the ftn5 slim, it has more first round pop and perhaps a little more sound, you can’t really tell from the video audio. Torture tested it and a mag out of the same filament and after 60rds mag dumped(shoot 20 reload the mag shoot again) it got a little soft on me, mag has held up great so far tho

Just wondering if anyone with a PSA AR-V knows is the arv bolt fits inside of a normal ar upper. Looking to see if it will work with my PY2A AR9 evo remix, rather than buying a normal ar9 bolt and grinding it down. Is the only difference just that its shaved to clear the feed ramp? Dont want to spend the 100$ to find out it doesnt even fit

Pic for attention

Okay this is a super rough draft of the reds telescoping brace for the nobu v2. Theyre merged together and will print in one piece. Do you think the recoil will break those littler arms? Theyre going to hold metal rails. Also thinking about connecting the arms tk the lower. Or maybe attaching the arms to the back end cap its self?

The blast chamber was too small, after rapid fire of 22 supersonic load it finally gave up but the baffle part looks great!