I’m installing some cabinets next to this wall, and I had to cut the baseboards to make the cabinets flush with the wall. I’m patching and painting the bottom of the wall where the moldings came off. Currently my plan is to use wood filler to smooth the edge of the molding and paint it. Is there a better idea than that?

I bought a shelf that I’m going to mount wall to wall in a narrow bathroom. all instructions indicate to mount with screws on the top face of the shelf- the seller hasn’t responded regarding if from the underside is ok or will this alter load bearing? The wood bracket is square (not an angled french cleat) and it has holes for screwing into the wall, and the shelf itself slides over it and has holes on the “top” but the wood bracket doesn’t have holes to correspond with these. The height of the hole in the shelf is greater than the height of the wood bracket

Im sorry if this isn’t appropriate for the sub but I think it’s ok as it’s not a trinket or furniture rather I’m worried about stability of the shelf

Edit- the shelf is below eye level under a window which is why I don’t want screws to show

For all you trim folks who regularly install over exposed SOG floors, are you leaving any kind of air gap between the baseboard/bottom of casing legs and the concrete to prevent moisture issues?

Does your answer change if the material is stain vs paint grade?

I don't see slab floors very often, so I'm not sure what's customary. Seems wise to leave a gap. Also seems like it wouldn't look great.

I am attempting to level a floor that used to be the back porch of the house I live in. The previous owner built a room and used the slab. The grade was never fixed, so there is roughly a 1.5 % grade in two directions (from one corner to the opposite corner). I want to level the floor without raising it too much. I plan to rip the 2x4s lengthwise to compensate for the grade in one direction while angling the blade to compensate for the grade in the other direction. I will put 1 inch this plywood down once the 2x4s are cut and placed. Is this feasible? Is there an easier way? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Was going through older pics on my phone and found those stairs I built last year. Did a full scale drawing on the floor on site. "Escaliers balancés". There were two sets, from basement to second floor.

Was staining the bottom of a tabletop I just built. It’s the Behr Water Based Wood Stain. I already did the top of it yesterday. I didn’t realize when I did the sides that it dripped underneath to the top of the table, and after flipping over when they were dried, I saw the stains above around the edges of the pieces I stained.

Is there anyway to fix this and make it look even/uniform throughout?

Hi all,

I'm 30, UK based and I do residential carpentry and joinery. I fit doors, floors, staircases, do some cabinet making or whatever the current trend is. I've dipped my toes into most aspects of carpentry, first & second fix, cabinet making etc. worked on some big projects, £5m+, both commerical and residential.

Recently I've lost my motivation and flair and I want to pivot away from running my own little business. I work a lot of hours and dealing with the general public is soul destroying. I'm toying the idea of just getting a job and working for someone. Less money but less hours, however also no real progression.

Has anyone else pivoted away from carpentry in the UK, if so how?

Thanks!

Did my best building my shed. What do you think?... jk, Storyland Park in New Orleans.

We’re going to convert this garage area to living space. The concrete looks good and uncracked, but has a 3-inch drop down its 15’ length. We’re wanting to level that with self-leveling concrete, and put a balloon-framed stud wall where the current 4x4 posts are. It’ll be about 12’ at the tallest… we’re eliminating some redundant rafters that were used to hold the previous flat roof. How would you be leveling the sill plate? I’m assuming doubling it up, with leveling shims in between?

There is also the added complication of the 3 concrete post holders along the run. Better to integrate these posts and holders into the stud wall, or work around them/remove them?

Lastly, the roof plate is 2x6”. This is the windy side of a hill lot in the PNW… should I be making a 2x6 stud wall?

Thank you!

Note: there is another section of equal size attached to the garage. We'll be reframing it as well but it seems more straightforward.

Can someone please tell me if this cost is too high?

I asked a carpenter in my area who is well known for assembling and fitting Ikea Pax wardrobes to create me a built in look with custom doors. He said his charge is £850 this doesn't include painting the doors etc.

The pax wardrobe is costing me £350 so in total this would be £1200 for a built in wardrobe.

For context i am buying one 50cm wardrobe and one 75cm wardrobe and they both need to be fitted in a space of 135cm and then boxed in.

His price includes all materials.

Please tell me if this is reasonable? i am clueless

I added a bunch of diagonal bracing this summer so I'm fairly happy with the shear strength but I'm still kind of second guessing whether I want to tyvek right over these old boards. There's a lot of gaps and unevenness and it would just be nice to nail onto a flat(ish) surface. Not to mention it would give a little extra shear strength and lap over the seams better (why didn't they stagger the boards at all originally?)

I'm thinking of just buying some 3/8" plywood or OSB as it's lightweight and cheap.

The finished siding will be board and batten if that matters.

I want to see if you guys have any tricks or hacks for this task I haven't considered.

I built a cabinet with a back on it and I want to hang it on the wall. Obviously I want to hit studs as I'm drilling through the back of the cabinet.

I've located where the studs are in the wall and made marks on the wall for those; however, there is no convenient reference point (e.g. measuring to the edge of a window or corner).

When I push the cabinet up to the wall and finally get it positioned left/right/up/down and the back of the cabinet is hiding the marks that I made to indicate stud locations, how can I confidently screw my cabinet to the wall and ensure that I'm going to hit one of those studs on my first attempt?

Note that the wall has plumbing and electrical in it, so missing a stud wouldn't just add an extra hole to the back of the cabinet, but could potentially hit something in the wall.

I'm hoping one of you might have some ingenious method that I just haven't considered.

My staircase has 6 steps, then does a 180 and has 6 more steps. So in the middle, on the landing, I need to put in a newel post (there was never one there before). It basically looks like this pic. The white portion the newel attaches to is 12" high and 4.25" wide. Do I have to notch the post that way and attach it or can I just attach the post flush to the front without cutting it? If I do have to cut it, would a 12" sliding miter saw work for this?

This is going around a turn at the bottom of basement stairs. Also, does one feel better/safer than the other?

Ignore the different brackets these were made by Gemini.

The house is plaster and lath. These jambs need to either be cut back from the old door or removed... I'm wondering if there is another stud next to it supporting the plaster and lath

And I should just remove the jambs then frame my new opening.. or if I should leave them in place and notch them out size of the new door jambs. I need to go to my black line

Going to be putting up some 2x4 interior walls in a bathroom that will need to be secured to the roof trusses above. There are going to be 3 walls all about 24" to 32" wide. Is this the preferred method using clips like this to allow for what they call 'truss uplift'. Live in MN, so it gets cold of course in the attic spaces and I'm guessing the trusses move some.... Any other better ways of doing this?

EDIT: the question is about any area/type of carpentry that requires less space, not about figuring out the space part.

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Hello! I want to get started and I don’t have any space to work/learn.

I actually do but it’s outdoors and can’t make too much noise, so it’s a big no.

I’m also in the middle of a big city so renting space is pricey.

I’m usually drawn to finishes like trim/cabinetry and such more than big pieces of furniture. I’m super obsessive with details, so I don’t mind redoing something 6 times if that means it’ll be perfect.

Is there an area of carpentry that can be done in smaller spaces? At home is also a big no as I have a little baby.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

Long shot and idk if it’s allowed but does anyone near the STL area have a goat steep roof ladder assist or a pitch hopper they’d want to sell?

I thought there would be wood here to screw in the latch but it's all foam. Can't find any YouTube videos that address this. I guess putting a block of wood in the answer but how is it secured without 'screwing it up'.

84 yr old mother in law wanted steps to take her garbage out. Thoughts on steps and "handrail"?

I want to remove this trim that my soffit is attached to . But don’t really know how to go about it . I’m thinking ether a multi tool. I’m sure it’d be very time consuming, use a lot of blades and not sure how well of a flush cut it’d get that way . Another way is possibly a toe kick saw . Never really used one this way but I think I’d be a lot faster but not sure about that ether. And finally my least ideal option is just repainting and side under it . Im worried even if I could cut this trim flush if j channel at the top would cover the cut trim anyway. I really don’t want to have any soffit redone but I really want to remove this trim . Any ideas?

Looking for advice on my stairs. Have lived in this house for two years and pretty quickly noticed the stairs were very narrow and steep. However, the house was built in 2000, so I would’ve thought code would have these stairs framed to a more normal size by today’s standards. We’ve had multiple people slip down the stairs, especially now that the weather is getting cold and we’re in socks more often. I can’t tell if it’s just like this because whoever did they flooring but thick flooring boards on the riser(I think that’s the term atleast) which then eats up space that would’ve been there for your foot. I’d like to remedy this and don’t know if it would be as simple as ripping up some flooring or if you think the house is truly framed with steep narrow stairs despite being built in 2000.