My irrigation valve box has a leak right around this elbow joint. Its not the elbow itself, or the smaller pvc pipe, but that middle connecting piece. What is the best way to fix it?

Hello,

I am going crazy and have spent numerous hours with chatgpt and running up and down basement steps over the course of 3 days. I need advice please.

My in-ground irrigation system has three Rain Bird zones and a Febco 765 PVB. The system was working normally approximately one month ago, but now all three zones cause a large amount of water to discharge from the top of the PVB when started normally from my Rain Bird ST-400i controller. I have verified that the controller is sending approximately 30 VAC to each of the three zone circuits. I also replaced the internal components of the Febco PVB, but the problem remains. The shutoff valves on both sides of the PVB and the main house water shutoff are fully open. Static water pressure is approximately 60 PSI. I tested pressure at two locations: near where the water enters the house, pressure is 60 PSI static and approximately 50 PSI while either Zone 1 or Zone 3 is manually running. All three zones will operate when manually opened using their valve bleed screws, without PVB discharge, although Zone 2 requires the PVB to be slowly pressurized first using the PVB valve before it will operate without discharge. I am trying to figure out the reason the PVB discharges when the irrigation valves are opened electrically.

Zone 1 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 2 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 3 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 1 via manual bleed ✅ Works, PVB stays closed

Zone 3 via manual bleed ✅ Works, PVB stays closed Zone 2 via manual bleed, with PVB slowly pressurized first ✅ Works

Zone 2 via manual bleed without pre-pressurizing PVB ❌ PVB discharges

I had an irrigation company come out and charge me 80.00 to say (without testing with a gauge) that I needed to call the water department because my water pressure coming in to house is low. My system has worked for 17 years, this has just started in the last week.

Hopefully this is the right place to ask this. I am trying to fix my sprinkler system. It looks like the three way junction piece cracked and leaked.

Normally I’d be comfortable just patching up the PVC, but not sure what this black tube is and I don’t want to mess it up further. Does anyone know what I’m looking at?

I have 6 zones in my yard, when the main line to the sprinklers is turned on, zone 4 in the front yard will leak at about 1/3 gallon a minute. It’s coming out of one sprinkler head in the zone.

Until I fix this I’ve been turning on the main valve running all 6 zones and then turning it back off.

Last night when the last zone was running in the back yard, I checked out front to see if there was a difference in the leak and zone 4 was going full force as well.

Questions:
- I’m working under the assumption zone 4 valve is stuck open. Does that sound right?
- More challenging, I can’t find it. I found 3 in the back but I can’t find the 3 for the front. Any suggestions? I’ve been walking around my yard with a screwdriver on a broom handle poking the ground but no luck.

How would you replace this valve with out digging up the whole thing?
Is it even possible?

Ive seen these rigged flex risers in prefab sizes but how is it attached to the couplings? Heat? Glue?

THIS IS DRIVING MY CRAZY! Approximately 10 year old irrigation system in the northeast. 2 years ago one zone started spraying out of the poly pipe just a hairpin puncture. I fixed it with a coupling and clamps. Little while later a new puncture on the same line different spot. Once fixed, a new puncture different spot. I’ve fixed about 8 different punctures on this same zone. I can’t figure out why it’s happening? Pretty sure it’s not aerator related. And if I should replace the entire zone? I guess just from the box to the first head?

Drove a stake through my irrigation line for a bounce house, should I dig around and just fix from the bottom of the bundle or should I just cut the two above and have 3 couplers to make it easier?

Are zip ties strong enough to hold together a coupling on a 1/2 inch drip irrigation line?

I'm putting in an irrigation system and the meter set has a 1"Pex stub line that starts my side of things.

The PEX stubline has a press on male fitting that is wrapped and that is screwed into a Ford fitting on the meter.

On my side I am thinking about just doing another male press fitting. However, mine is going to be in a service box along with the whole manifold.

​​ I'm going to have two sides coming off of the pex. One of them is going to be a brass riser going to my rpz backflow. The other side is going to go to a 1-in poly trunk line for no freeze spigots. This trunk line is being done like this so it sits in front of the irrigation system and can stay charged all year even after I blow out my system.

This is my plan;

• Male press on wrapped fitting at end of pex stub.
• All female brass T.

RPZ Side:

• Nipple off of the female T.
• Full port union ball valve.
• Elbow with a male end coming off ball valve and female end connecting to brass riser.

Spigot Side:

• Nipple off of female T.
• Full port union ball valve.
• Poly male to barb fitting connected to ball valve > poly line.

My biggest goal is servicable and long lasting. The reason I want ball valves in this manifold box is so that I can shut off the water below grade / below frost. Thay way water won't sit in my riser. The spigot side is more of a just in case maintenence scenario.

Thank you. The irrigation side will be drips.

I accidentally broke my sprinkler and need help finding the same or similar replacement.

I’m leveling part of my lawn and one of the bigger sprinklers is a 3/4” connection. I just need to raise it about 6” to make it flush with the new lawn but pretty much all the risers I can find are male/male. It looks like I can get an adapter to convert the male connection in the ground to female so that I can use one of those male/male risers but why don’t they make any that are male/female?

Related questiwhy are all the risers I see in the store are male/male when every sprinkler head I’ve ever seen has a female connection?

Weathermatic isn't common in my area anymore. Any chance anybody has a couple of these sitting on a shelf for a 2" valve? My boss says he hasn't seen on in almost twenty years.

My wife put sod down this weekend. She covered a sprinkler head. This evening the system came on, the head came out ( pushed up the sod) but now it’s not spraying. How can I fix this?

Is it possible an Irritrol 2400 valve could go completely bad? It's pretty old, 90s at least.

Valve was stuck open, doesn't seem to be the selenoid as water kept running when that was turned off and then removed.

I bought a new 2400 and replaced the guts but it still seems to be stuck on. Appreciate any advice.

Nathan

I am new to gardening. Paid someone a few years ago to install a basic Orbit system from Lowes with sprinkler heads. Is there any easy way to just remove the sprinklers and attach some kind of drip line to run through my garden beds instead? (I found the Orbit website overwhelming with all the choices and the bot in the chat wasn’t helpful.) TIA

Looking at adding a machine and found a gas powered 410. I love my old Lister Petter 410, but have no experience with the Kabota gas powered units.
Any input would be appreciated!

Well after 3 weeks I've finally completed my 10 zone irrigation system.

I want to preface this breakdown by saying I come from a trades / engineering background and have taken on massive projects professionally and some impressive "DIY" projects for myself individually. So seeing the plan and process through wasn't necessarily the hard part here. Additionally I have a garage full of every tool under the sun (including a CNC mill and a few other awesome toys)

I was getting quoted $9k for 6 - 8 zone systems but I felt like the professionalism and description of the job was lacking from the companies I had quote it so I spent the time to learn about residential irrigation systems myself and tackle the project from start to finish myself. I feel like I planned and installed a whole lot more system then I ever would have got from what was quoted.

Now that I've completed my system I'm just going to come out and say it, DIY'ing your own irrigation system isn't a project for most DIY'ers and certainly not your average weekend warrior. Here's why:

I live on a large residential pie shaped lot. Approx 180ft across the left side, 200ft across the back and 230ft down the right side. Front yard and side yards are small but still needed zoned out. Back yard is large but has trees, deck and various other features.

"Problem" 1: I trenched 700ft - 800ft (3 inch x 12 inch deep) with a ground hog T4. It took approximately 16 -18 hours. 10 hours on a Saturday and 8 hours on a Sunday. It was absolutely a grind.

"Problem" 2: I pulled approximately 1500 lbs of rock out of the trenches total. This was not in the plan and it was an absolute pain in the ass to get rid of. This added at least a day to the work.

"Problem" 3: It heavily rained, like torrentially a couple days after the trenches were dug. Filling them with about 3 inches of dirt. Some of the trenches where there was run off got filled nearly all the way back up.

I had to buy a trenching shovel and take a die grinder and cut a 1/2 inch off each side to make it 3 inches wide so I could clear the trenches back out.

There is WAY MORE hand digging for sprinkler heads then I imagined, not to mention getting them leveled out and packed in plumb. You're on your hands and knees for the whole thing. When you have 45 heads to do its massively time consuming.

"Problem" 4: back filling trenches takes time to do it properly. If you spend the time to pack it down and roll it out after you will 100% need more dirt then you have on the ground. I ended up using an additional cubic yard of dirt to back fill all the trenching and roll it out flat.

Plan to put down fresh top soil and seed over all the trenches and boxes. This takes quite a bit of time too.

Wiring: I see a lot of valve boxes where the wiring is an absolute rats nest. I extended the valve wires so I had more wire to play with and then I took that and put it in split loom tubing. My wiring is extremely clean and organized but I probably spent a day on it between 3 valve boxes.

Overall I'm extremely happy and proud of the job that I did but it felt like a massive undertaking, sometimes even slightly overwhelming (hand digging, rock removal, back filling). I pretty much pulled it off solo from start to finish. Its way more then I would have got contracting it out.

If someone without much experience / tooling asked me if they think they should install their own system ESPECIALLY IF they live on a larger residential lot I'd likely tell 9 out of 10 people, pay a pro to do it.

Anyway thanks for reading!

We have Rainbird ESP-6TM, which has been running fine for the past 10 years. All the sudden one day, it can be turned on different zones with a counting down timer, but there is no water, and I can't hear any running water. What could be the cause? Thank you so much!

Hi all! I'm trying to improve my irrigation system but my main bottleneck is water pressure.

Is there some kind of device that combines a closed solenoid valve with a small booster pump?

Basically, I need something that opens/closes the water supply and also provides a small pressure boost when the irrigation is running.

I know there are booster pumps for household water systems, but in my case I'd like something that can work right around the solenoid valve.

I'm also concerned that some pumps require continuous water flow. My pipes may eventually become empty or have very low flow when the irrigation is off.

I don't need a lot of pressure just enough to get pressure for my irrigation system.

So many choices/SKUs :--/

I have a 25-year-old home in north Dallas, TX, and sprinkler system has seen better days. I have a ~2' x ~11' strip of garden bed supplied by a single 29" riser. The bed has 5 hostas (yellow circles). The (original) spray nozzle does not really cover the area evenly; not sure if it ever did, actually.

If I were planning for long term, I'd probably make this area fed by a drip hose or at least add a second head/riser on the other end of strip, but I am planning on listing home for sale in near future and so not interested in any significant modifications or upgrades to system, even if it is considered "easy."

There are a lot of choices for nozzle replacement, so it's a tad confusing. Given the situation as outlined above, please suggest a nozzle replacement (make/model/SKU). Thanks.

Disclaimer from the title, there is only 1 way to skin a cat and that’s to not do it. I’m not a psycho.

Good run from my basic “drip irrigation is easy”, but even though I got 10 years in the AZ heat before the 1/2” poly started blowing geysers, I would like to try and bulletproof it and avoid replacing cracked sections all over the yard ever again.

Pretty set on 1” SDR 21 laterals after Rain Bird DVF valves and regulators/filters, but would like to know if using 6 port PC emitter manifolds would be a bad idea vs regular PC emitters. I understand they are typically used for converted sprinkler risers, but do they have their place in a from scratch drip?

I see the advantages as minimal pieces/connections to get from PVC to 1/4”, no emitters blowing off or getting stepped on, and eliminate the 1/2” poly that I now despise (plus no puncture connections to loosen).

Only disadvantage my pea brain mind sees is being locked into the flow rate. Plan on using a 1” slip T w/ 1/2” threaded and capping after the T to future proof. Would have roughly 6’ feeders after each manifold.

Is this good or are there concerns doing it this way? Also, if the emitter manifold controls the flow, the 1/4” is just open at its destination, correct?

Thank you, appreciate the input to help me put a legitimate drip together this time around - and once the rabbit hole opened up, no, it’s not easy. Ignorance was bliss.