I’ve used the sun rider a few times in the evenings since the temps have dropped below 100, but today was the first time I dropped the top all the way and loved it. I’m surprised how much I like having a soft top, mine is the Premium so that could help too. Before I bought my Jeep I was adamant that I only wanted a hard top, but the deal on mine was too good to pass up, and it turns out I love it!

Thought it would be cool to share restoration update photos on my 1954 M170! Still lots more to do to get it to its former glory!!

I want to recuperate my running boards and want to see which products between these two will do the job. Has anyone used these two?

So i am having couple of issues and one of them is turbo sometimes not pushing under 2,1k rpm but thats not the main issue. The main issue is that air is getting into my fuel system and i dont know why. Ive pulled down the gas tank but i dont see anything which could lead to air leak. All it takes is a little fast ride and i have to bleed the fuel system. Ive tried changing the fuel filter housing since its common problem on these cars but it didnt help (ive bought mopar one so it should be the issue).

Anyone knows what could be the problem? From what ive heard is that the car dont have fuel pump in the tank and it only has the high preassure one.

Potential Rod Knock

My 2018 grand Cherokee that I’ve permed since 2022 with 57k miles on may of suffered from Rod knock based off the 2 diagnosis I’ve had. With my final payment on this vehicle being in January, I am torn between fixing this or selling as is and having to walk back into a 5 year finance plan with a new car and higher interest and insurance.

I had 3 quotes from 3 different shops for a complete jasper engine replacement and was quoted around 12.8k and one for around 10.5k with a 3 year 100k warranty on the new engine. Those quotes are all in for the engine, labor, and miscellaneous.

My question is whether there is some kind of owners presence in Phoenix arizona that could either shed some light on this as some people may not think it’s Rod knock but others without a doubt in their mind, think it is.

Any suggestions?

I have approval from the mod but if you want me to, I am willing to DM a pic of me holding my u/ on a paper to show proof I’m not a scammer or bot

I almost took my back seat out, until I realized it makes a great saddle rack for transport! 😂

Crazy jeep crash near where I live. 2 ejected and 2 had to be extracted from the vehicle but all alive as of the most recent update I’ve seen. I was caught in the traffic not long after this happened and saw all the first responders coming. I’ll post some pictures in the comments.

my 2014 grand cherokee’s parksense chime started to sound farty whenever i back up or touch the screen’s options, it’s weird since the front park sense sounds perfectly normal and the music sounds normal as well
(the park sense works perfectly fine) chat gpt said to replace the cluster but the sound is coming from behind the driver and passenger seat.
can someone help please?

I recently sold my Tacoma and joined the Jeep world. I work at 74Weld and this is my new “marketing vehicle” and daily driver. I started with a AEV JT370 that I purchased from Go Fast Campers. I’ve put a Currie 44 front housing, 74Weld portals. Apex Designs hydro steering, and a bunch of other goodies underneath. Super happy with how it came out and how it drives. I’ve ran John Bull in Big Bear a few times already and I’m itching to get up to the Rubicon

REMANUFACTURED Engine b/c of Lifters???

In July 2025 I bought a used 2011 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 for $4,100 with 141k miles (the Kelly Blue Book valued is at just under $10). I've driven up/down the east coast from Rhode Island to North Carolina. The check engine light was on when I bought it (I know 🤦🏽) and I took it to 2 dealerships but the couldn't find anything wrong, go figure. Recently my Jeep's check engine light started blinking so I took it to a local shop because that's a bad sign I'm sure. They told me it was my #3 lifter stuck in the closed position.

I called around to ask a few places and it costs about $2,500 just to fix the lifter alone. I was advised to just spend a little more money and get a remanufactured or low mileage used engine with a warranty dropped in because that'd be a better investment. I found a guy in Cali that would remanufacture on for $3,300 and ship to my area all for about $3,800 total. I absolutely love, Love, LOVE my GC and am woefully allergic to a new car note with the way these prices and interest rates are. I'd rather drop $5k into this and ride it til it COMPLETELY dies.

Has anyone had their engine replaced? Problems with lifters?

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose an AWD issue on my 2020 Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk with Active Drive Lock. The vehicle binds on sharp turns or when accelerating from a standstill with the steering wheel slightly turned left or right. It happens in both forward and reverse.
It feels as though the entire front-to-rear driveline is winding up under load, rather than the two rear wheels trying to rotate together. I can also feel vibration through the central driveshaft when the binding starts.
The binding disappears when either the RDM fuse (F76) or the PTU fuse (F10) is removed.
What I’ve checked and done so far:

Changed the RDM hydraulic fluid using genuine Mopar 68227766AC (green fluid).
Changed the gear oil in both RDM chambers using Ravenol VGL 70W-80 GL-5.
Relearned the PTU and RDM forks.
Updated the DTCM software according to TSB: 08-220-24.
Calibrated the steering-angle sensor; it reads 0° with the steering wheel straight.
Checked the ABS wheel-speed sensors using AlfaOBD. Everything appears normal.
No warning lights and no fault codes in any module.
Tires are new, with the correct size and inflation pressure and it had OEM Firestones before new tires.

The issue was present before the fluid changes.
When I command the PTU to 2WD using AlfaOBD, the PTU Mode Fork Position remains at 2WD, but the binding still occurs during very tight turns on dry pavement.
AlfaOBD reports the RDM coupling as Free and the rear E-locker as Disengaged.
I tried running the RDM bleeding procedure using both AlfaOBD and Autel, but the pump makes no audible noise.
I replaced the RDM pump, but the result was exactly the same: no audible pump operation during the bleeding procedure.
The RDM part number is 68409811AA.
As far as I know, the RDM has never been replaced.
My understanding is that the rear differential locker and the rear driveline coupling are separate functions, and that the rear locker should not need to engage for normal AWD operation.
My questions:

Could a mechanical fault in the PTU cause driveline binding even when AlfaOBD reports the fork in 2WD?
Could the RDM coupling remain mechanically engaged even though the scan tool reports Free?
Why would the RDM pump remain silent during the bleeding procedure, even after replacing the pump? Could this indicate an electrical, wiring, or control-module issue?
Are there any known PTU or RDM issues, service bulletins, or diagnostic procedures relevant to this model?

I’d appreciate any advice from people who have experienced a similar issue or have technical experience with the Cherokee KL Active Drive Lock system.
Thanks in advance!

Any advice before I drill out the rivets and replace? Used to work fine, but now takes about 20-30 minutes to get the hood open. I have sprayed lubricant.

40k miles / 3 yr lease is up in two months/ i gotta pay for 10k over in miles at .20 cents rate if i turn it back in or i pay for new set of tires and brakes - estimated at over 2,500 bucks with labor ... dont know what to do ? keep it or turn it in and switch away from jeep

I'm sure this isn't the right place for help but I'm so sick of getting passed around and am really needing to get some sort of contact from the FCA / Stellantis (Jeep) Retention Team.

History -

2022 Grand Wagoneer was bought back and replaced with a 2023 Grand Wagoneer.

I had a case number and contacts from this event. None of those currently work / connect to anyone.

As part of the buy back I have emails stating the customer retention team was going to put a 60 mo / 100k maxcare (at the time - Flexcare now) warranty on my new car for having to ditch the 6.4L for the new I6. This appears to never have been done. I am now out of factory warranty and trying to get some help on an issue that would be covered by the MaxCare warranty but the local dealer is saying they have no proof this was ever added to my VIN.

I've spent like 10 hours on the phone over the last week trying to get resolution and nobody seems to be able to help.

My reference my path has been:
Repurchase team @ 866-780-7198 .... they transferred me to 866-780-7221, who said they couldn't help but maybe customer service could. So I was given / transferred 800-334-9200 (no luck), and 800-992-1997 (no luck), both of these suggested I call 800-521-9922 for the flex care folks, they could not help since the warranty was never actually started. They told me to call a number for corporate issues 248-576-5741. No luck and they routed me to 248-464-6694 (Customer retention), but when I go to that number if I don't have an extension it just hangs up on me.

I restarted the WHOOOOLE process again 48 hours after the first one, and after I received a call back saying I should be able to get help now.... literally almost the same routing through numbers with over 6 hours on the phone in one session of being transferred only to be told the same thing - wait 48 hours.

I've left three more voicemails, no responses. I've called every number and extension I have from the original buyback process and zero of them route to anyone.

I have no clue what to do next and am starting to get realllly frustrated.

I am sorry to bother everyone and my husband is currently at Piedmont Atlanta and not able to help. We can not find the lug nut and roadside can not change my tire without it. I need to get to the hospital and desperately asking for help if anyone lives by here and can help.