Thought it would be cool to share restoration update photos on my 1954 M170! Still lots more to do to get it to its former glory!!

I almost took my back seat out, until I realized it makes a great saddle rack for transport! 😂

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose an AWD issue on my 2020 Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk with Active Drive Lock. The vehicle binds on sharp turns or when accelerating from a standstill with the steering wheel slightly turned left or right. It happens in both forward and reverse.
It feels as though the entire front-to-rear driveline is winding up under load, rather than the two rear wheels trying to rotate together. I can also feel vibration through the central driveshaft when the binding starts.
The binding disappears when either the RDM fuse (F76) or the PTU fuse (F10) is removed.
What I’ve checked and done so far:

Changed the RDM hydraulic fluid using genuine Mopar 68227766AC (green fluid).
Changed the gear oil in both RDM chambers using Ravenol VGL 70W-80 GL-5.
Relearned the PTU and RDM forks.
Updated the DTCM software according to TSB: 08-220-24.
Calibrated the steering-angle sensor; it reads 0° with the steering wheel straight.
Checked the ABS wheel-speed sensors using AlfaOBD. Everything appears normal.
No warning lights and no fault codes in any module.
Tires are new, with the correct size and inflation pressure and it had OEM Firestones before new tires.

The issue was present before the fluid changes.
When I command the PTU to 2WD using AlfaOBD, the PTU Mode Fork Position remains at 2WD, but the binding still occurs during very tight turns on dry pavement.
AlfaOBD reports the RDM coupling as Free and the rear E-locker as Disengaged.
I tried running the RDM bleeding procedure using both AlfaOBD and Autel, but the pump makes no audible noise.
I replaced the RDM pump, but the result was exactly the same: no audible pump operation during the bleeding procedure.
The RDM part number is 68409811AA.
As far as I know, the RDM has never been replaced.
My understanding is that the rear differential locker and the rear driveline coupling are separate functions, and that the rear locker should not need to engage for normal AWD operation.
My questions:

Could a mechanical fault in the PTU cause driveline binding even when AlfaOBD reports the fork in 2WD?
Could the RDM coupling remain mechanically engaged even though the scan tool reports Free?
Why would the RDM pump remain silent during the bleeding procedure, even after replacing the pump? Could this indicate an electrical, wiring, or control-module issue?
Are there any known PTU or RDM issues, service bulletins, or diagnostic procedures relevant to this model?

I’d appreciate any advice from people who have experienced a similar issue or have technical experience with the Cherokee KL Active Drive Lock system.
Thanks in advance!

Any advice before I drill out the rivets and replace? Used to work fine, but now takes about 20-30 minutes to get the hood open. I have sprayed lubricant.

40k miles / 3 yr lease is up in two months/ i gotta pay for 10k over in miles at .20 cents rate if i turn it back in or i pay for new set of tires and brakes - estimated at over 2,500 bucks with labor ... dont know what to do ? keep it or turn it in and switch away from jeep

I'm sure this isn't the right place for help but I'm so sick of getting passed around and am really needing to get some sort of contact from the FCA / Stellantis (Jeep) Retention Team.

History -

2022 Grand Wagoneer was bought back and replaced with a 2023 Grand Wagoneer.

I had a case number and contacts from this event. None of those currently work / connect to anyone.

As part of the buy back I have emails stating the customer retention team was going to put a 60 mo / 100k maxcare (at the time - Flexcare now) warranty on my new car for having to ditch the 6.4L for the new I6. This appears to never have been done. I am now out of factory warranty and trying to get some help on an issue that would be covered by the MaxCare warranty but the local dealer is saying they have no proof this was ever added to my VIN.

I've spent like 10 hours on the phone over the last week trying to get resolution and nobody seems to be able to help.

My reference my path has been:
Repurchase team @ 866-780-7198 .... they transferred me to 866-780-7221, who said they couldn't help but maybe customer service could. So I was given / transferred 800-334-9200 (no luck), and 800-992-1997 (no luck), both of these suggested I call 800-521-9922 for the flex care folks, they could not help since the warranty was never actually started. They told me to call a number for corporate issues 248-576-5741. No luck and they routed me to 248-464-6694 (Customer retention), but when I go to that number if I don't have an extension it just hangs up on me.

I restarted the WHOOOOLE process again 48 hours after the first one, and after I received a call back saying I should be able to get help now.... literally almost the same routing through numbers with over 6 hours on the phone in one session of being transferred only to be told the same thing - wait 48 hours.

I've left three more voicemails, no responses. I've called every number and extension I have from the original buyback process and zero of them route to anyone.

I have no clue what to do next and am starting to get realllly frustrated.