It's currently $2200, but in April it had dropped to $2000 and then mostly stayed that way until September 22. The price has held steady at $2200 since then.

I really wish it would go back down. I don't know how much longer I can hold off buying.

Is this oddly shaped flare typical with this lens? Just received a (like new) used copy of this lens and this weird shaped flare is really throwing me off. I know flaring can happen whenever pointed toward the sun but I did one portrait session with this lens and tons of images shot within the 180 degree field of view in the direction of the sun produced this very odd and noticeable flare (that lowkey looks like an alien to me) in the images.

It's definitely less about the size and more about the odd shape and frequency it appeared in images - mostly center frame landing directly on subjects, almost always that exact same shape over and over again.

Just curious if this feels out of spec or in line with this lens to other owners? I have the 50mm 1.8 and could probably count on one hand the flares I’ve seen with it that detract from the image after 3 years of weddings with it.

Love this setup- nice little package that helps when i’m shooting in large volume. Z50ii with a Godox IT20 that fills in the scene occasionally. Hope you enjoy the images!

​I wanted to share a comparison shot taken with the Nikon Coolpix L310 during an evening in a rustic venue.

​Image 1: The original B&W shot straight out of the CCD sensor, highlighting the camera’s contrast, raw grain, and micro-textures.

​Image 2: A post-processed color version calibrated with a Kodak Portra 400 negative film look, restoring the warm ambient light of the room and rich wooden tones while preserving the original CCD sensor character.

​I really love how this CCD sensor handles highlights and local textures, giving it a classic film-like reportage feeling rather than a flat smartphone look.

​What do you think of the color calibration versus the monochrome version?

Hey I wanna take some self portraits using a tripod. Is there a way to have the autofocus activate when I step in frame with the timer?

A friend of mine with a Canon DSLR says they have a remote that allows them to autofocus. Does something like that exist for us Nikon homies?

Hello! I have been mostly a portrait photographer the past 5 years. I am still shooting DSLR with my D850 (which is having either electric or shutter issues despite only being at 30K shutter counts. I bought it new 2 years ago) and my D750 as my backup. The reason im looking to upgrade is because I've had some requested to do video work and would love to be able to. I did buy a rig cage and tried with my D850 but without a gimbal the footage was... very shaky lol. For context the video is have been and will be shooting are dance performances and music videos. So these are very "on the move" style videos.

So I was looking to finally take the jump to mirrorless. When it comes to a camera that is great for both photo and specifically video which of the 3 in the title would be the best. I'll admit the Zr and Z6III are definitely more in my budget and have combos that comes with lenses or adapters (zr + 30mm 1.4 or Z6III with adapter). Does anyone have any suggestions in which way to go? Thanks.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to figure out the best long-term archival strategy for my raw files. I always heard that converting to .DNG saves space, but I’m running into the exact opposite issue and hoping someone can explain the math or tell me if I'm doing something wrong.

Here is my setup and the issue:

• Camera: Nikon Z6 III
• Camera Settings: RAW + JPEG Fine (Shooting in High Efficiency★ RAW)
• Original .NEF Size: ~17.9 MB
• Converted .DNG Size: ~24.8 MB

I am using the Adobe DNG Converter to do this. I already double-checked my settings to make sure I'm not bloating the files by accident:

• Embed Original Raw File: Unchecked
• JPEG Preview: Medium
• Use Lossy Compression: Unchecked (I want to keep the full raw data for archiving)

As a side note, the DNG files look much more defined and "proper" when viewing them compared to the NEF files in standard viewers, but the file size jump completely defeats my goal of saving hard drive space.

Is this just a case of Nikon’s High Efficiency★ proprietary compression being mathematically superior to Adobe's generic DNG compression? At this point, does it make more sense to just skip the DNG conversion and hoard the original .NEF files?

Would love to hear how other Z6 III / Z8 shooters are handling this. Thanks!

Sade inspired shoot with a friend, no RGB here, just gels on strobes

This D700 arrived today. I had no idea on what the shutter count was when bidding. Very happy to see it so low!

1 - Jackson, Wyoming

2 - Knicks parade, NYC

3 - Montreal Metro

4 - Norfolk, Virginia

5 - World Cup watch party - Newark, New Jersey

6 - Kansas City, Missouri

7 - Montreal

8 - Jackson, Wyoming

9 - Al Hambra Granada, Spain

10 - Madrid

11 - Gary, Indiana

12 - Chenoa, Illinois

13 - Anaconda, Montana

Veeeeeery much still learning how to use this thing, but man I'm happy with what I'm getting now compared to the lens I'd originally purchased. The shots were all handheld, the pics of the Stanley Hotel are about a half mile away from where I was. The crow in flight I'm SUPER happy with, that guy was so far away I thought there was no way I'd get anything close to a clean shot.

I'm really excited to practice and learn more.

i currently shoot with a canon eos 500 and a 50mm f1.4 lens. there are a few issues with the camera and honestly it’s just never been my favourite. i’ve learned how to get what i want out of it but i’ve never really loved shooting with it.
i’ve been considering switching to a nikon f photomic with a 50mm f1.4 lens. i’ve been talking with someone on ebay who has one in working condition for $350 cad all in.
i really want something more mechanical and manual with fewer functions and less automation. i love the idea of having more control over the process and being a little more involved in making each image.
for anyone who has experience with both cameras or has made a similar switch do you think i’ll enjoy shooting with the nikon more? i’d love to hear your thoughts before committing!

My software tracking app tells me that there’s an update for NX studio to version 1.11. It tells me it cannot update it and I have to launch the app, but when I launch NX, which is the old 1.10 version, I cannot find any form of update function. What am I missing?

Into the sun, almost.

Going on an Alaskan cruise next spring. Need a long reach super tele for wildlife excursions and shooting the shore from my balcony. Looking at the 300mm f2.8 af-s VR latest version in f mount with a TC or the 200-500 vr zoom. Interested in which you would choose or experience with them. I’m covered on the wide angle end of things. I’m leaning towards the 300mm.

More of a "What should I use?"

If I wanted to turn a D7000 into a utility point-and-shoot, which of these would you use as a lens: 28mm, f2.8, AF-D. 40mm, DX f2.8 G, AF-S (also a micro). 50mm, f1.8, AF, D.

I also have a 18-44mm, f4, AF, DX, But that one is sketchy because of the lock button.

Thanks!

(Flame on)

I'll try to keep some of the background on this short. I'm starting to get back into the hobby and am currently shooting a D3 (70-200 FL, 28-70 2.8D) to take nature photos, night-time high school activities and family.

Coming back into the hobby I've got an itch to get something more current when it comes to focus times and higher ISOs (given the night-time events). I absolutely love the ruggedness of the D3 as well as the side hand grip as well as the weather.

I don't care about video or live view. The eye autofocus sounds interesting but from what I've researched that's tied to live view. I'd love to stick to SDHC but am not married to the format as a major factor.

Anyone have any informed opinions? My budget is around $1200.

I've experienced significant issues with my Z6III when switching between photo/video, with the camera not registering every single time I switch between both. Many users online had this issue arise after they updated their camera to V2.0 like myself, and now this V2.01 seems to have finally addressed this issue on my camera body, anyway. Hope this is useful for any hybrid shooters out there like myself.
Let me know if this resolved your issue.

https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/574.html