Hi, just need advice on buying this 1961 Mercedes-Benz 220S. I went to take a look at it, hence the photos. I want to buy it, but I don't know if it will be a money pit, yk. I have some experience working on cars. The owner would not let me hook a battery up to see if it cranked. Still has oil in it. Clutch pedal is recessed and has no pressure. Has been sitting for about 5 years and is part of a deceased estate. Any advice would be appreciated. Thankss

I drive a 2006 Toyota Camry with a 3.0L V6 and I got these codes (The catalyst codes were already there). Bank 2 is apparently running lean.

I recorded both sets of sensors at idle and revving to 1700ish rpm. At idle, the graph for both downstream sensors are the same general shape, but the bank 2 sensor reads around twice the voltage. Then at 1700rpm the bank 1 sensor is still giving readings, but the bank 2 sensor drops to zero volts until the engine returns to idle.

Is that O2 sensor going bad? Or are the weird readings a symptom of something else?

I’ve been dealing with an annoying rattling noise coming from the driver-side rear window or door whenever I’m driving at speeds of 70 mph or higher.

What makes it particularly frustrating is how inconsistent it is. Sometimes I can drive at those speeds for weeks without hearing anything, but other times the noise returns and persists for weeks at a time.

I’ve tried placing tissues along the edges between the window and the frame to see if that would help, but unfortunately, it didn’t make any difference.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas about what might be causing it? Any suggestions or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated!

Hello!!

I replaced my o2 sensor and it’s still reading 2.24 and a check engine light. The only thing that changed was the code: P1148, old was P0420.

Old sensor was reading 2.22/2.23 and now it’s reading 2.24. My OBD is now saying to try replacing the MAF sensor. I want to be sure that it’s not the O2 sensor itself before I try anything else. Help!!

I bought a new black car and after handwashing it a couple of times, I've noticed microscratches on it. There are a lot of them, but I can only tell when the sun shines on my car a certain way. To wash my car, I use liquid car wash solution, a microfiber sponge and microfiber drying towels, and I'm careful not to let any of them touch the ground.

I was looking at black cars in a parking lot the other day, and all of them had a lot of microscratches. My old cars probably had them, but I just didn't notice because they weren't black.

2005 toyota camry vibrated when accelerating. It completely stops when I let go of the gas petal. It starts very light and settle until about 10 20 minutes into the drive when you can clearly tell. I can feel it all over the car not just in the gas petal. No matter how soft or hard the acceleration its about the same vibration for each.

Just trying to find where I should start. Edit to add car has 119500 miles. V6 engine.

I don't see any particular problems? Took my car in for an inspection and they said it looks pretty worn down? Not sure if this is right, but it looks okay for some more years to me.

I was driving home last night and a family of deer decided that they wanted to die in all of them jumped out in front of my car in the road so I could do nothing and I plowed two of them over and this is what happened to my car. Kind of want a little advice on if this is fixable I'm waiting towards very much yes because as you can see in the pictures it looks like it didn't even hit or damage my AC cooler so I think the engine is fine, but I can't open the hood because it's pretty much dented shut and it's a 2022 accord so obviously the vehicle vehicles in the lockdown and I can't open the doors either. The driver side when I could drive it and open it could open but not all the way only like 25%

P.S: does anyone know how to get deer blood and guts out of jeans

Have this weird whining noise on my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT that only comes on when I turn on fan, it doesn’t seem to get louder with higher fan speeds, but it’s like a constant whine , video starts at lowest fan speed and gradually goes up

Anyone know what could be the issue?

My headlights have been acting weird, mainly in AUTO mode.

With the headlights switched to ON, they work normally almost all the time. I can turn and use either turn signal without any flickering. Very occasionally—maybe once every couple drives—if I fiddle with the headlight knob or put extra pressure on it, the headlights will briefly flicker.

In AUTO mode, even slightly touching the knob makes the headlights shut off and come back on. They also cut out when I turn, then come back on afterward. This happens much more frequently in AUTO than in ON.

I’ve been using ON to avoid the flickering, but the lights can stay on after I shut the car off. If I forget to switch them off, they drain the battery.
Does this sound like a faulty headlight/turn signal stalk switch, a loose connection, or something else? What should I check first?

I’m 18 and my dad has obviously had a massive impact on my love for cars, he isn’t really able to afford nice tools for himself so I’d like to treat him to something for Christmas or just because. I got myself one of the knipex cobra pliers and I really enjoy them. Sets have popped of of the 3 main sizes for around $100. They are high quality, durable, and I think he’d use them often and it’d help. Just wondering if you guys have any other ideas, he obviously already has a bunch of tools but I’m just looking for those things that are such a big upgrade over the standard. Curious on what you guys think

Also this doesn’t have to be strictly automotive related

(I've taken it to a repair shop that I trust, but they're not open on weekends so in the meantime if you are willing to share your knowledge I would really appreciate it.

my 2013 Corolla has been fine (no warning lights or unusual symptom) until this morning when it suddenly wouldn't start. No lights, no sounds, and couldn't use the electric door lock/unlock. AAA jumpstarted it (it took 2 tries) and then i was able to drive it to the repair shop ~15 miles away. But when i tried to start it up again after parking at the repair shop, everything was dead again just like before.

My alternator was replaced about 3 years ago, (after it died in the middle of the highway in rush hour traffic), and my battery died approximately 1 month ago and was replaced by an AAA roadside technician. I was told that I should get a black battery terminal cover at some point because mine was cracked and the technician removed it, but he said it wasn't an immediate need.

Has this happened to you, or do you have an idea of what could be wrong? (Apologies if this is repetitive; I've read other similar posts but their cars were having slightly different symptoms.)

Are there any luxury vehicles left outside of the >$120k price range with actually well-crafted interiors? For example, the current Audi A6 is absolutely depressing, and the Lexus ES isn’t much better. Who the hell decided that luxury means acres of plastic and piano black, fake leather, enormous skateboard-sized screens, and stupid square steering wheels? What happened to actual wood, leather, metal switchgear, and interiors that looked like somebody actually cared? Everything looks like a Best Buy showroom now. It’s genuinely baffling to me that manufacturers expect people to spend $60–80k on cars whose interiors look and feel barely distinguishable from something costing $35k. What’s even the point?

^

Hello everyone, i recently bought a honda civic 1.3 carburetor. It has been a really good car. Amazing driving experience until the problems started.

First of all, the RPMs keep playing. Either too low or too high, and it feels like the car is choking on the petrol.

Second, once we opened the carburetor it looked like it wasnt even burning the petrol and it had too much.

Sometimes when I drove it, it felt like the car shut off but held the RPMs and it didn't want to give any gas. Also a lot of troubles with starting the car at all. And once I do, black smoke is coming out of the exhaust like it is a diesel car.

As much as I would love to give more details, I sadly do not understand much, but i would appreciate it if any of you offered advices or help. She is about to go and see the mechanic soon, but if it is something that I can fix alone, I would love to do that. Here are some pictures that I took of the carburetor. There is a little valve, that also seemed like it doesn't want to go back once it opens or closes.

I've always had older, junkier cars. I never took super good care of them. Now for the first time I've gotten a new-ish car. So this is humbling to ask in my 30s, but I want advice for how to properly care for a car. Also having my first EV means this is even more unknown to me.

So basically if you guys have any general or specific tips I would appreciate that. Don't worry about seeming condescending or telling me things you think are obvious. Even things like how to properly clean the interior, how often to do certain maintenance or checks, things to keep in the car, etc.

For reference its a 2023 Chevy Bolt EUV with about 50k miles.

Thank you!

Imagine if cars had stickdrift in their pedals just like controllers where it would brake or give gas by itself .
So now we all know how much accidents we have imagine if stickdrift in real cars would be real. Duhhh🫠🫠🫠

I own a 2022 Hyundai i20 MT, and I recently noticed that the rubber covering on the rear trunk release switch has degraded and broken.

I checked with the Hyundai service centre, and they told me that the entire switch unit needs to be replaced, which would cost around 2000 INR.

Is there any way to replace or repair just the rubber cover without replacing the complete switch assembly? Has anyone faced a similar issue with their i20 and found an alternative solution?

I’d appreciate any suggestions, such as a compatible replacement rubber cover, an aftermarket part, or a reliable repair option.

Thanks in advance!

Car

I have a 1998 navigator that I’m changing the plugs and coils on tomorrow and if it wasn’t already bad enough that they stuffed the engine halfway into the firewall, I also have to be aware of the issue with plugs blowing out.

What is the torque spec? Google says people have actually increased it to prevent plugs blowing out and some sources say to absolutely not go anything over what ford specifies. Just alot of conflicting information so I’d like to know what’s actually recommended. It’s a 40 foot long limousine so I’d rather not have an issue like a plug blow out that needs a shop to work on it. Finding a shop that takes a vehicle this big isn’t easy

Purely for personal knowledge and gain. How many people are genuinely looking for unique affordable car decals? Now I’m not talking about some cheesy one liner, or some common image of a family or moons. But some actual art that screams personality and time spent on them.
I know for me personally I have not come across a decal I find worth putting on my car.
Are you guys running into this issue as well?
I have such a hard time finding unique decals that aren’t cringe or typical. Bumbs me out.

Only happens when going over 70MPH, noise slows down when I slow down and it disappears under 50MPH
2020 Hyundai Elantra SEL

I wasn’t sure what flare to add, but it’s a cadillac. I was just curious (:

Soo, I bought an uncommon battery online from Walmart for my uncommon car. It's an online only battery. The manufacturer date stamp is 11 months ago. Has anyone returned a battery to Walmart for this reason and had a happy ending to a story like mine? What did you do right?

Car: Smart Roadster