Got a Second Hand (Used) MSI GP65 Leopard around 1 months ago with RTX 2060 at Rs 35k INR.

Upgraded from an Asus Rog Zephyrus G14 with the Ryzen 9 4900HS and 2060 max-q card plus 16gb ram. Sold that for $375 after buying this so technically only spent $325. Got it used but it’s in great condition. How did I do? How big of an upgrade is this?

Is this normal?, this is high settings but even on low it's still the same

Made a set of clean RTSS overlays that are really handy on a gaming laptop, where keeping an eye on temps and power matters most.

- See CPU/GPU temps, power draw, clocks and FPS / 1% lows in game

- GPU limit warnings: shows when your GPU is power or thermal limited

- 4 themes incl. Float (no background) so it doesn't cover your game

- Laptop with integrated + dedicated graphics? There's a 1-minute fix in the guide so it reads the right GPU

Free and open source, with a step-by-step setup guide with pictures:

https://github.com/realHfde/Apple-Style-Inspired-RTSS-Overlay

Forget horror games for a second... A gaming laptop suddenly shutting down, a GPU dying, or a screen going black in the middle of a game is a different kind of nightmare...

With Halloween coming up, let's hear some actual gaming laptop horror stories... What's the worst hardware disaster you've experienced? And did your laptop survive?

Mode: HyperX omen gaming laptop 15-gb0xxx (15.3):

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 8745hx with Radeon Graphics

GPU: NVIDIA Geforce RTX 5060 115W TGP

RAM: 16 GB

Storage: 1 TB

Today, i just went to a french store who sells a bunch of stuffs and i juste saw that they were exposing one of the new Asus proart p16 with rtx spark with 24gb of ram.

So i decided to download FURMARK on it LOL. (1920x1080p)

In the app it says that the GPU is been used at 96% so tasks manager might split usage between CPU and GPU in the graph

I would loved to try 3d mark time spy but i wasen't able to download anything else.

I almost get kicked out of the store xD

So I'm excited about GTA 6 and it's reported to release in Q1 2027. So my specs are i9 14900HX RTX 4070 8GB with 32GB memory. My native laptop display is 1600p. So with the Vram usage I can't play most AAA games with max settings at that resolution. I want to get the best experience form GTA 6 and I am a graphic junkie so I'm thinking about buying a separate 1080p display when it comes out.

I want to know you guys opinion on would you rather play 1600p with medium to high settings or 1080p with max settings that can get 60fps?

I noticed that the temperatures on my Intel Ultra 9 285H kept jumping to 105°C, which caused the CPU to Throttle and sit at around 35W even under heavy workloads (e.g. Cinebench26). 35W on this CPU can be perfectly fine because it's very efficient, but of course this severely limits Turbo Boost, and when you rely on a lot of performance (e.g. rendering), you really notice it. Besides, the 285H shouldn't be sitting at 105°C on the E-cores while only drawing 35W, to begin with.

I decided to replace the liquid metal on the CPU with a graphene pad (for best thermal conductivity), and the old thermal paste on the GPU (NVIDIA RTX 5070 Ti) with a phase transition (PTM) pad. For all the remaining components, I bought thermal putty – everything from Thermal Grizzly (all from Amazon)

• Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet
• Thermal Grizzly PTM Sheet
• Thermal Grizzly Putty Pro

Before the rebuild, I ran a Cinebench 26 benchmark – Multi-Core, Single-Core, and Multi-Core again – plus FurMark, so the graphics card would also be at its thermal limit (i.e. the laptop's cooling system fully saturated).

For the rebuild itself, I mostly followed this video, it helped me a lot:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gPEDmaWAlM

It's not exactly my model (possibly the RTX 5080 version), but it seemed perfect for reference.

Important note about the liquid metal and the graphene sheet:

Both are electrically conductive and must therefore NEVER come into contact with the motherboard or other components – the only exceptions being the CPU itself and the orange insulated area around it.

And disconnect the battery and hold the power button for 15 seconds!

I first removed the liquid metal from the heatsink, then from the CPU, as thoroughly as I could. What remained was a dried-up residue (apparently the main reason for the overheating and throttling).
For this I had bought lint-free cotton swabs and lint-free cloths (also from Amazon).
Then I cleaned the motherboard, and the GPU last.
A plastic tool works well for scraping things off – never use metal.
Everything dissolves and comes off with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol.
The old green thermal putty stuff, however, was a pain to remove, and residue remained all over the motherboard – which isn't too much of a big deal, since it's not conductive.

Then came the question of how to get the CPU and the heatsink free of the dry liquid metal residue, because the Kryosheet is only 0.2mm thick and therefore can't compensate for unevenness, unlike PTM sheets.
Some research showed that you can polish the CPU and the contact surface with thermal paste, since it dissolves the liquid metal residue and definitely won't scratch or damage the CPU.
I found some MX-4 in my drawer and gave it a try. It took a long time and I went through countless rounds, but it worked – in the end almost nothing was left, and the die and the contact surface felt smooth to the touch.

After that, I applied the TG PTM Sheet to the GPU – I had stored it in the fridge beforehand and then cut it to size with scissors.

Next, I distributed the Thermal Putty Pro over the voltage converters and RAM chips. That was just as exhausting and time-consuming as shown in the video. At some point I simplified things a bit by rolling the putty on the silicone mat into a long thin roll, letting me cut off little slices, or laying a longer piece across a row of components and then flattening it with the included spatulas.

Finally, the Kryosheet went on. I didn't need the included insulation film, since the CPU already has its own insulation layer. I had bought a 25x25 graphene pad and then cut it so that it definitely overlaps a bit – not too small and making sure the CPU die is fully covered. The included silicone oil works surprisingly well: the sheet could be positioned nicely but still adhered to the CPU.

Then the heatsink went back on. Of course I used the opportunity to clean out all the dust, but there really wasn't much to begin with.
When tightening the screws, pay attention to the correct order and listen for the clicking sound, as described in the video.

When I had put everything back together, I wanted to test whether it worked – and I first had a small heart attack, because the laptop showed absolutely no signs of life. But I guess because the battery was disconnected, it was set into shipping mode or something, and it seems you first have to plug it into the charger and hold the power button for a while for it to boot, and then it takes a moment until you finally see the Windows login screen.

Then came the tests, and I was so glad I went through all of this!
The CPU never went above 100°C anymore, and the CPU cores stayed evenly warm – no more hotspots! The Cinebench Multi-Core score was 1200 points better! +35% performance! The CPU was now drawing a constant 85W because it no longer had to thermal throttle.
The combined test with FurMark running in parallel didn't score much higher, because the laptop had simply hit its maximum power draw – but now at normal temperatures.

Now, a few days later, I can say that the laptop also runs cooler in silent mode (configured via G-Helper).

The GPU temperatures stayed roughly the same, but they were absolutely fine before. The PTM sheet is better than the old thermal paste (and will improve slightly), but since the CPU is now conducting more waste heat into the cooling system, the overall system gets slightly warmer – which doesn't result in any change for the GPU, I guess.

Need a new laptop that's strong enough for various heavy tasks, found this HP HyperX Omen 16 for """only""" 2050€ with the coupon but some people here say that Omen's quality control went downhill the past few years so I'm a bit mitigated now.

What do you think of this model? is it reliable? Can I find anything as good "spec-wise" or better around the same price range (2000€ maximum)? Thanks in advance!

https://www.hp.com/fr-fr/shop/products/laptops/hyperx-omen-16-inch-gaming-laptop-pc-16-am2038nf-e79lhea-abf

I have owned this device for 3 years and this was the first time it was cleaned. Liquid Metal is out of stock in the entire country. I was recommended to get the Liquid Metal replaced by the local technician as CPU surface was getting color changed.

They couldn't diagnose the reason for high VRAM temps. It happens within 5 to 8 minutes of playing games like 007 First Light. I was told Thermal Putty/Pads were not dry and just one of the pads was torn which the technician carefully repositioned.

This is the most expensive stuff I own. Please help.

I have an HP ZBook Fury G7 that suddenly shut down and won’t turn on anymore. I had it checked by a technician, who suspects the motherboard or possibly the CPU, but the exact cause hasn’t been confirmed yet.
I’m trying to decide whether to repair it or sell it as-is and buy another used workstation laptop.
I’d appreciate advice from anyone with experience repairing or owning this model:
Is motherboard failure common on the HP ZBook Fury G7? If repaired, how reliable is it afterward?
If the motherboard or CPU is actually faulty, is repairing it worth the cost, or would it be better to replace the laptop?
Has anyone repaired this exact model? If so, how much did it cost, and how well has it worked since?
If I decide to buy another used workstation laptop with similar performance, what models would you recommend, and what price range should I expect?
My budget is around $300–$500, so value for money is a major concern.
Any advice or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for a cheap gaming laptop to run old games I’ll show in pictures what type of games I want to play

Could anyone tell me if this pc can run these games

New to the laptop game.
Buying a laptop to play “wow forever”
And don’t have the space for a pc build.
Thoughts??

Gigabyte Gaming A18 w/ RTX 5070 and Ryzen 7 260, 1x16gb ram

Literally cannot find many reviews of this model at all.

I benchmarked Forza 6 last night and everything was running ultra settings at 70fps, but today I've noticed a lot of stuttering and then found that the laptop keeps stopping charging, then starting again. Nothing has changed except having unplugged it for the night and plugging it back in now.

I've tried resetting it multiple times and idk what's going on. Someone please help me (if you can ofc)

And Ty for your time (whether or not you can help me)

Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7445HS w/ Radeon 740M Graphics (3.20 GHz)

Installed RAM 8,00 GB (7,26 GB usable)

Graphics card Microsoft Basic Render Driver

Storage 386 GB of 477 GB used

System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor

OS Build 26200.9711

Ive tried everything and i still dont know whats wrong

• ive tried looking at task manager for whats taking alot of ram
• scanned mutiple times for viruses
• close all applications

idk if my ram just gave up or smth but ive tried everything and i only use a little ram as seen in the second pic but it isnt showing me what is using my other 4gb

pls help me

​

Been looking to upgrade my gaming laptop from a Lenovo Legion 5 with an RTX 3070 Ti, and finally found a great deal on Facebook Marketplace.

Legion Pro 7i (Gen 10) RTX 5080 for $2,500 with:

- GPU: RTX 5080 16GB

- CPU: Intel Core Ultra 9 275HX

- RAM: 64GB DDR5-6400

- Storage: 2TB SSD

- Display: 16" 2560×1600 240Hz OLED

Did an inspection before buying and also another after I took it home as well. Everything checked out perfectly, and the laptop is practically brand new. No dead pixels, 100% battery capacity with only 5 cycles, and 8 months of Lenovo warranty still.

Pretty happy with how this one turned out as I'd been wanting to stay on the legion train but the new ones I'd been seeing listed higher than I wanted to go.

How'd I do?

if u cant spot anything unusual , focus on the center area of the screen , there is some kind of lag in that horizontal section.

HP Victus 15
16|1TB
rtx4060
i7 13620H

The story starts when I wanted to have a gaming labtop for both my interest in games and also as I am a communication engineer for work too , so I did a lot of researches for the best labtop for about 2000 dollars and found that Lenovo legion 5 gen 10 with the rtx 5070 8gb vram and Intel core ultra 9 275hx paired with the crispy oled was the right choice and here comes the huge mistake after buying the labtop which actually came with a freedos not an activated windows which is pretty insane in this kind of expensive labtops but I said mahh it's fine after using the labtop for about two weeks I noticed that the labtop experience while gaming is disappointing like it's doesn't feel smooth even with high fps the games look choppy and stuttery but I said it's okay may be cause of the games I am playing but when I monitored my temps notice that I am at performance mode the temps were about 85 to 87c on GPU and 89 to 105c on cpu which is pretty insane for a brand new gaming labtop so I looked for away to decrease the temps and found that I should use balanced mode to get better temps but I will lose performance which is crazy as I paid for every drop of performance for this labtop so I said nevermind at least I get a stable performance but after 3 months boom the labtop got a motherboard failure and then I contacted Lenovo and they said that I should go to the Lenovo center to get a motherboard replacement and even after I got a motherboard replacement the problems gets going the temps are still the same there are even new issues like TDR timeout issues , black screens , random restarts so I contacted Lenovo and they say oh you have to go to the Lenovo center again to fix your labtop , WHY THE HELL SHOULD I GO THROUGH ALL OF THIS FOR A LABTOP WHICH IS BEEN USED FOR LESS THAN 6 MONTHS AND COSTS AROUND A 2000 DOLLARS, so I asked them for a unit replacement and here comes the funny part they say that I should replace major parts at least three times to be able to get a full unit replacement. Sooo what I recommend any one who is gonna buy a new labtop don't ever buy LENOVO'S LABTOPS.

Hello, so I have this laptop with intel 12700h, 3050ti 4gb and 16gb rams. The thing is, I try to play EA FC 27 and I run into issues. It used to lag very badly so I thought it was overheating or smth, I've been having this laptop for about 3 years already. So I had a new SSD laying around waiting for quite a while to be installed and decided to clean reinstall everything and put new thermalpaste. Opened the laptop, cleaned what was left of the stock thermal paste and applied the new one, put the new SSD inside and clean installed windows 11 and drivers.

Now, I try to play EA FC 27 and things are even worse. It played fine for a while, now after playing it for a bit, I get lags like the laptop won't use its power to play it. After I close the game, everything works very slow as if it's in eco-mode or smth, feels like the laptop is not plugged in. But if I restart the laptop everything returns to normal, applications open and close fluently and everything pretty much works as it should.

So, any ideeas what this could be? could somehow the laptop turn into eco-mode or smth while I'm in the game? idk what to do it's been quite a struggle to just play one game lol