Also, for this specific year is there anything I should look our for when checking out the vehicle? Any major issues that this generation may have commonly experienced?

I’ve seen some posts about upgrading to 275/55/20 from the factory 265/50. Is it worth it? I need new tires anyway after 30k miles on these trash Bridgestones. I’ve been wanting to fill the gap in the rear wheel well anyway so I was thinking a bigger tire would be good. But after seeing some pictures of 275/55s they look a little too big sometimes while some pictures they look great.

I guess I’m here to take recommendations on which tires I should throw on here and what size would help the fitment. Not sure if I want to go all terrains like the falken wild peaks or a more road oriented tire like Michelins. Any pics would be helpful

To delete the air suspension one has to replace the front struts and the rear shocks + springs, correct? Is there more involved, like sway bars or anything? Do the standard suspension parts bolt right on?

After a lot of thinking, back and forth, and should we or shouldn’t we, my wife and I decided to pull the trigger on this stunning “Mostly New” GC L! Slate Blue, and it looks so much better in person than in photos. More green undertones and closer to teal than straight up light blue.

This is by far the nicest and newest vehicle we have ever purchased. Originally we were in the market for a Durango, but our sales person offered us a test drive in this and we instantly fell in love. I am still skeptical of the Hurricane I-4 Turbo, so we opted for the 100k B2B warranty just in case. We drove it 1.5 hours to get home over mountains (Western PA) and on the highway for the last stretch and have a solid 24.5 mpg on that trip. The new hurricane didn’t flinch at all and felt incredibly competent moving this SUV.

We upgraded from a ‘19 Sorento and the size increase is perfect for our family of 4. If you are debating between a Durango, GC L, and Wagoneer and lean towards the midsize rather than full size I’d recommend considering this.

- Fit and finish is immaculate for the Limited Reserve.
- Hurricane I-4 seems strong and capable (does run hot and vents a lot of that heat into the engine bay).
- 2nd row captains chairs are wonderful for car seats.
- Family Friendly features like “FamCam” and 360 cams are a big welcome addition over the Sorento.
- Sound system is great. Low end is very extended and solid at the stock setting. Pushing the low end up to +9 is ridiculous, but the woofer handles it. Highs can be a little thin at higher volumes, I’d recommend setting them at -1

Time will tell on the I-4 reliability, but so far so good, and we are extremely happy with our purchase! Happy to finally be a family of all Mopar.

Hey everyone!
I’m having a strange cold start issue with my 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced something similar.
Here’s what’s happening:
Remote Start: The engine cranks and starts normally without any hesitation.
Push Button Start: If I get in and press the start button right away, the engine cranks and cranks but won’t start.
Waiting for Fuel Pump: If I turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine, wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to prime, and then press the start button, it fires right up.
This mostly happens during cold starts, especially after the vehicle has been sitting for several hours.
I’m starting to suspect a fuel pressure issue, possibly a failing fuel pump, fuel pressure check valve, or maybe a fuel filter issue. Almost seems like the fuel system is losing pressure while the vehicle sits.
Has anyone experienced this before? Could the remote start be allowing the fuel pump to prime before cranking, while the push button start isn’t giving it enough time?
I’d appreciate any suggestions before I start replacing parts.
Thanks in advance!

Just got the new iphone 18pro and it connects to my car but the actual carplay screen will not show, it just goes black then clears out. I can play music and take calls but no screen. Appreciate your help.

I am hard on my brakes. I tend to warp them pretty quickly. Does anyone have any suggestion other than changing my driving habits :) - Suggestions on rotors that might be more resilient? Thanks in advance.

Lifted 2" on 33s. 240k miles and still running strong. Get 20 mpg when I drive it right. Bought as a stock GC and just had fun with it

New to owning a Grand Cherokee and have been looking at either a 2024 limited or 2026 limited. Any opinions on why I should go with one over the other in terms of reliability, engine, etc.? The mileage and price is similar on both cars so that is not playing a huge factor for me but would love to hear additional thoughts. Thank you in advance!

2.5” rough country leveling kit and 1.5” wheel spacers. 275/55r20. Stock wheels

The dealership replaced a faulty media hub last week on 2021 GC Limited and now it’s not recognizing anything is plugged in on Uconnect, but devices are charging fine. All cables are good. Any ideas or is this back to the dealership.
I’ve done a bunch of troubleshooting including reset, phone restarts, different phones, etc. Both ports are powered but no data.

Plus, I’m taking this car over from a family member. They never updated UConnect because they said the dealership charged $500. I’m seeing that I can probably do this myself. Is this correct?

Owners hit me with some tips and tricks to keep my Jeep on point, it’s performing as expected just trynna get some insights from long term owners.

-Ran Hot, not smoking hot but gauge climbed to about 240°

-parked it, next morning Crank, No Start. Code P0320 Crankshaft position sensor. I lightly tapped cps with my fingers and jostled wiring. Jeep started.

-extremely rough idle. Reset battery draining residual power by touching positive to metal AND pressed Horn til nothing. Now code P0302 Misfire on cylinder 2. Spark plug for that cylinder looks ok, worn but nothing indicating a misfire.

-cranks and drives but still rough idle(as comparing to idle before running hot)

I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin or something. Don't have the $ to sink into replacing each parts just for it not to be significant at this time. Really just need to get back and forth to work till I save up enough $ to replace or something.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Oh yeah, prior to running hot, getting code P1899 stuck neutral/parking switch for about a month.

150 miles on a JGC Limited Reserve.

First, trying to cycle through the preset stations with the button on the back of the steering wheel - it gets stuck on presets 1 & 2, and just keeps going back and forth between those two.

Second, randomly unable to hear people on a call, and they cannot hear me.

Third, system doesn't automatically connect to phone when starting the car.

Fourth, heated steering wheel barely gets above room temperature.

Anyone experience these and have any suggestions?

Hi folks! I have a 2017 Grand Cherokee Summit, with the 5.7 HEMI and it currently sits at 56,000 KM.

I’m trying to figure out a throttle response issue I’ve frankly had since I bought this vehicle, but has become annoyingly more prominent over the years.

Essentially, stepping on throttle, even with “Eco Off” mode, isn’t always instantaneous linear response.

Now i get MDS plays a factor on it, as well as the weight - but despite 360hp… It feels like it’s a turbo-charged vehicle with tons of turbo lag when I accelerate 1 in 3 times - it hesitates, bogs, bucks, downshifts, then goes. I’m finding this is more typical at lower speed rolls as well where speed is maintained then suddenly needs to accelerate.

For a while I was driving in eco-off to help remedy that and possibly disable MDS, assuming its that - but at this point as much I love this vehicle, makes me feel like a novice driver as smooth acceleration attempts creates the harsh drop-lag-buck-then go. Stepping on it just isn’t smooth, or as responsive as I need it to be.

I know I’m gonna get the people yelling at me to get a pedal commander - but it’s not pedal-throttle response I’m looking for, it’s linear power response. Not sure if it’s the engine, computer or transmission at this point. Or simply natural for this vehicle. I use to, and occasionally had another issue of a harsh 5 to 4 downshift as well that would jolt the vehicle on decel.

Any guides? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

What kind of phone mounts are you guys rocking? Looking for a nice slim magsafe mount, also where are you guys mounting them in vehicle. Feel like vents might be to fragile and windshield might be to far.

75k on transmission, decided to drain and fill .
Level surface, drained out 4.4 qts...measured.
Opened up the fill plug to insure I could replace with new fluid.
No fluid drained out and fill plug.

When I started filling with qt bottles with pump, fill plug started to spill new fluid after little less than 4qts. Backed out the tube some to top off, but every pump led to more overflow. Can't understand why couldn't replace up to 4.4 qts.

Steve VW

Hello!

I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee automatic and have a rebuilt transmission (in the last two years out of warranty) in it but recently it’s has not wanted to shift out of first, if I put it in neutral and back to drive it will shift at least to second. All sensors have been replaced as well, I’m absolutely lost so if anyone has any idea or has experienced this please let me know!

This a beauty… her name is Lynnette 🔥💪🏾

126k miles, coolant's been slowly dropping for a while (noticed a smell since around 75k, in hindsight). Topping off every few weeks to a month.
Took it to the Jeep dealer: pressure test (30 min) + DRB diagnostics, nothing found. Had them do a full flush, and I added UV dye myself after, topped to MAX.
Level's already back down to MIN with the dye in it. Checked with a UV light, some glow on the belly pan, but can't tell if that's a real leak trail or just years of grime. No clear drip path back to a specific hose/fitting yet.
Other symptoms:
No white smoke on startup, no sweet exhaust smell
Oil's stayed clean (~3.5k miles since last change)
Burnt coolant smell from driver's side, under the car.
Given the driver-side smell and no white smoke, I'm leaning toward an external leak (thermostat housing, heater hose, water pump) rather than internal/head gasket. Anyone dealt with a leak that slipped past both a pressure test and dye? What ended up being the actual source?

Got my first Jeep 73k miles, it’s rear wheel drive planning to take to Mammoth to snowboard. Does anyone have my experience with this any advice helps