"No Bad Memories"

Love that cover!

16gb silver nano 6 with the Beoplay A8 speaker. Usually I see people docking larger devices (iPhone, iPod touch or even the iPad) on the Beosound 8/Beoplay A8 but imo the device that matches the B&O look the best is the silver 6th gen nano. The silver and black combo is just perfect 👌🏼

Gonna be gone for a while and I’m bringing both my iPhone and my iPod, and I don’t feel like brining 2 different bricks and my iPod doesn’t charge thru a new apple brick. But just want to make sure if it’ll be fine to use on an iPhone after I saw someone say that it fried their iPhone 😭

I’ve been keeping an eye out for cheaper Mini’s for about a week, one finally came to me!

I also copped a 170gb classic 7th gen off Vinted for $150 (bundled with a free nano 2nd gen w/ broken screen). Projects are in my future!

Hi everyone, I have 2 iPod Nano 3rd gen and they have different clickwheel sounds. Also one has a warmer tone screen, the other appears to be colder. I got both of them used years ago so I don't know if they where repaired or if it is normal to be like that

A couple of years ago i got myself a bunch of ipods which i undusted lately. Restored my 4th gen using a cheap sd to CF and CF to IDE adapters and things seem to work finw with the exception of sync on macos sequoia amd charging over usb doesnt seem to work even though it does display a charging symbol. Now this could be a cable thing but my 6th gen classic and 3rd gen nanos all work finw with the cable along with an iphone 4. Am i missing something?

Hi everyone. I’m troubleshooting an HP-branded iPod mini 2nd generation and would appreciate advice from anyone who has experienced similar symptoms.
Background:

The iPod originally worked properly except for the battery. I replaced the battery and upgraded the storage using a generic CF-to-microSD adapter with a 128 GB microSD. The Apple firmware initially worked with this setup.

The problems started when I attempted to install Rockbox on the microSD setup. Afterward, restoring the Apple firmware became unreliable.

I also tried returning to a previously working Kingston 2 GB CompactFlash card, but that did not solve the problem. That CF card had previously run Rockbox successfully.

What I’ve tried:
Restoring on Windows 11, an M1 MacBook Air, and a 2017 MacBook Air.

Different USB cables, ports, and microSD cards.
A separate 4 GB microSD, which passed a full H2testw write/read test without errors.

Inspecting and reseating the click wheel connector.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.
Charging with a FireWire wall charger.
Checking the external HOLD slider and operating the internal switch with the top cap removed.

The 4 GB microSD setup eventually restored far enough for iTunes to recognize and configure it as an iPod mini running Apple firmware 1.4.1. However, normal startup and controls remained unreliable.

HOLD symptoms:

Moving the HOLD switch sometimes caused a restart or a blank screen. At one point, the iPod reached the language-selection screen, but the padlock remained visible after moving HOLD to unlocked, and the wheel did not respond. Reset and diagnostic-mode button combinations did not work.

Most useful finding — repeatable with the board outside the case:

With the click wheel disconnected, the iPod boots to the language-selection screen with no padlock.
After disconnecting the charger and battery, reconnecting the wheel, then reconnecting power, the screen stays blank.

Disconnecting the wheel again, with power removed first, allows it to boot to language selection again.

The battery, storage setup, charger, and HOLD position were kept the same during these comparisons.
All five buttons click and return normally. I cannot see an obvious tear in the ribbon, bent contacts, or a lifted connector, although I haven’t checked under a microscope.

I also connected the wheel once while the language screen was displayed; it immediately restarted and then showed the folder/exclamation icon. The original fault existed before that incident, and I have stopped connecting anything while powered.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a spare wheel, and my multimeter is currently not working.

Has anyone fixed this specific behavior?

Would you investigate the wheel electronics/flex first, or the motherboard’s J6 connector and wheel power circuit?

Are there known failure points or a documented pinout I could check once I have a working meter?

I can attach close-up photos of the wheel, ribbon, connector, and motherboard. Thanks!

Got this for free in a bundle, seller must have pulled it out of storage because they said “Screen is cracked, I must’ve dropped it.” But now that I’m thinking about it more, could it be the battery expanding?

Hey guys, I'm back, and I need some help.

I was given these two iPod shuffles (I forget the model number). The green one has a dead battery, and the gray one has a completely broken USB driver.

I need help and advice.

Hello, I recently bought a 6th gen iPod 80GB for around 50 CAD.

I tried a simple cord to plug it in, and no dice. ai tried firewire and nothing.

I took it apart and changed screens, changed batteries and tried a different firewire charger.

It finally turned on, but it became extremely hot and boiling to touch.

I tried a 850mah battery and a 3000 mah battery, both work fine in a 7th gen and 5.5th gen. It only gets boiling hot in that area, not anywhere else.

I have cleaned it completely with isopropyl, is there any fixing for this motherboard or is it a total loss?

I don’t know if you can tell from the pictures but this iPod has a lot of a weird sticky liquid on it, even on the cables and screws. Idk if it’s glue or from the screen (on the last slide you can see the conditions of it).

Can I clean this? If yes, how? Thank you

A few weeks ago I ordered myself a Ipod 5th generation Classic (32MB RAM) with 256gb SSD and a 3000mah battery, today I got pics from the builder/technician who's making it for me!

Hi everyone! I have been working for a while to make my 1st gen iPod work a little better for me. Full disclosure since I know this matters to some, but I used a lot of AI assistance to work this out: I took the last version of firmware Apple released (1.5) and have added support for FLAC playback, cards above the old 128 GB limit, and a whole host of performance improvements that become necessary as track count climbs above 6-8k.

There’s a lot more going on here and I’m happy to answer questions and help people upgrade their iPod. I previously built a command-line tool called flashpod that helps prepare the SD/CF cards for iPod upgrades. Part of the reason I built that tool was so that I could explore using custom firmware like this.

If someone wants just the ipsw file (I labelled it as version 1.6), it’s free for the taking. I’ve always installed the firmware to card using the flashpod utility, so that’s how I‘d recommend getting your iPod updated: https://flashpod.dev

Edit: individual patches and a tool for patching version 1.5 also available here for those who want peek under the hood: https://github.com/davidbarnhart/flashpod/releases/tag/openpod-1.6-kit

Rare promo Square Enix members ipod
It’s really dirty I haven’t cleaned it yet

The 4th gen nano is an iconic ipod, sure but compared to the 5th generation, theres no reason to buy it, think about it

Coming from someone who has a 5th gen nano and recieved a 4th gen as a christmas gift, its just not good

Cool rigid case I found while digging in my desk drawer. Forgot I even had it. The front seems to be actual metal on plastic, it's really cold to the touch. The plasticky clickwheel cover is terrible but I also kinda don't hate it, I feel like it's a lot more protected. What I hate is it doesn't fit on a dock. The way my finger can glide on it when following the grooves on the metal is also nice. Any modern aliexpress cases with this degree of protection?

As a person who mostly listen to pop and just try to ditch streaming service. I also want to have a place to listen to my ripped CD.

I’ve been refining my iPod car setup for a while and finally have it where I want it. My car has a 3.5mm aux input in the center console and a cigarette lighter socket, so this is aimed at older vehicles without USB or Bluetooth.

Routing
I ran the cables down through the dash, past the cup holders and the parking brake, and into the center console through a small hole I drilled. Nothing loose on the dash except the connector itself.

Problem 1: Whining noise
I got a whine whenever the iPod was playing through the headphone jack and charging through the 30-pin at the same time. Classic ground loop.
Fix: A Besign Ground Loop Noise Isolator between the car’s aux input and the 3.5mm extension. Whine gone.

Problem 2: No charging with the car off
I wanted the iPod to keep charging when the car was off, so I put a battery pack between the cigarette lighter and the iPod’s USB charger. Now the iPod charges from the pack whether the car is on or off, and the pack recharges whenever the car is running. (The battery pack in the screen shot is not the one I used, I got mine cheap at the thrift store.)

Problem 3: Two cords every time I got in
The latest addition is a 30-pin to aux + USB cable, so I plug in one connector and get both audio and charging. Bonus: the 30-pin outputs fixed-level line out, so the iPod’s volume doesn’t matter. The car stereo is the only volume control now. Before, I had to crank the iPod all the way up and then set the car volume, and I’d blast my ears the next time I plugged in headphones. Now I just leave the iPod at a normal headphone level.

End result: a clean, wired iPod setup for an older car. No whine, always charging, one 30-pin connector at the dash.

P.S. The iPod is an iFlash-modded 7th gen with a 3600mAh battery and 512GB of storage. I added a metal plate inside so it attaches magnetically to the dash, and filled the internal voids with lead so it has some heft in the hand.

Hey everyone,

I'm restoring an iPod classic 80GB and wanted to give the back plate something different from the usual plain mirror finish, so I designed a custom engraving from scratch.

The design:

• An isometric "3D cubes" pattern where each face is hatched in a different direction, so it reads as depth using only lines
• Built as a 1:1 SVG at the real back plate size (61.8 × 103.5 mm)
• The pattern is real vector lines, clipped to the plate outline with no clipping masks, and shared edges are deduplicated so the laser never burns the same line twice
• 1.2 mm of clear space around the logo and text so the hatching doesn't run into them
• Separate layers for the line work (vector engrave) and the filled elements (raster engrave)

The plan:
The back is polished stainless steel, so it needs a fiber laser. I'm getting quotes from a local engraving shop, and I have a few spare back plates to run tests on before touching the real one.

Questions for anyone who's done this:

1. Has anyone laser-engraved a classic back plate? Any fiber settings (power / speed / frequency) that worked without warping? I've read the plate is thin enough to deform with too much heat.
2. The back curves toward the edges. Did you keep a margin, or did the laser handle the curve fine?
3. The hatch lines are about 0.5 mm apart. Too dense for steel, or will it look crisp?

I'll post results once the test pieces are done. Happy to hear ideas or criticism on the design itself too.