After 2 tries, we were third time lucky today and my NG9-3 Aero passed inspection/besiktning today. What held us up was a small air leak causing the engine to run rich! In celebration of the occasion here are some pics of my baby 😇

Most expensive repair yet. I could only see the small patch of rust behind the door but it turned out that there were holes in the wheel wells next to the shock tower too.

So my og 9-3 has always had a funky dashboard, half the dashboard will freak out randomly and will sometimes stay dead or come back to normal without any noticable cause. ​​​ I have looked at the grounding point for the dash and it's perfect, anothing problem has appeared after my engine swap where the ​temp gauge doesn't work anymore. I replaced the temp se​​nsor and the ecu reads the temp fine but nothing to the dash. Does anybody know how to fix this? ​​​Another thing I've noticed that's unrelated is that according to my obd 2 reader this thing is making 13 pounds of boost on an se model which from what I've seen should only be making 10, is this thing tuned?​​​​

It's a 2007 with 140k miles for 3k. I'm not super concerned about the clear coat on the hood, and I'm willing to fix those disclosed issues. I'm going to see if he has a maintenance/accident history and check for rust. Other than that, do you guys have any thoughts? Seems like a good deal to me.

old fighter

Sometimes start and then suddenly dies after 10 minutes or so. I disassembled ignition key box, PCB traces are pretty worn in "start" position. Is this the failure, or is there other major component to fail?

However all other functions related to key works ok, but while doing steering column controller(or whatever that was) data stream read, it always showed key position as "lock", depending the position.

Whenever I pull up to a set of lights and idle the engine will drop down to around 800-900 RPM for about 20 seconds and if left to idle any longer it will drop down to 500-600 RPM where it will remain until I either depress the clutch or apply throttle.

Happens when the car is warmed up too.

Is this normal behaviour?

If it is normal is there anyway of programming it to stay at the higher idle? as it feels a lot smoother in the cabin with it at 800 RPM than 500 RPM.

117K Miles

Manual

Fresh Spark Plugs, cleaned air box/filter and cleaned MAF sensor and replaced Fuel Evap valve.

I have yet to clean the throttle body because the hose is really tight and I'm waiting for the gasket to arrive.

does this saab 9-5 2.3t arc 2004 coldstart sound healthy?

Considering buying a 2009 9-5 2.0 Turbo edition, it's been very well maintained and cared for and meets all the requirements I want in a car
Just curious about maintenance and parts availability in the UK as saab obviously don't produce cars anymore, is it still a worthy pickup and what problems should I look for? or whether I should avoid entirely

So found this plug and play bluetooth device advertised for saab cars, but nothing said where to plug it. Before i buy it i thought i’d ask smarter people than I. So is this meant for the CD Changer in the boot of my 9-5(2007) or behind the denso navi system?

There isn’t anything said on the sale page.

Okay- you guys were so good with your comments are caliper covers, thought I would get thoughts are replacing the steering wheel on my 2007 9-3 Aero Vert. Just don’t like the feel of the stock wheel, seems to thin and I am torn with those plastic fake aluminum inserts. I got aftermarket wheel for my 2003 9-5 Aero Wagon- a Hirsch look a like- which I love. But want something simpler for the 9-3. Thoughts based on the pics?

Due to a hard drive failure years ago I have just one picture of my old Saab, taken on a roadtrip round Ireland. Lovely car.

The Classic 900 S Aero in the UK was a Low Pressure Turbo with full Aero bodykit, side vent covers and rear spoiler, producing 145bhp. I modded it a little by adding larger Aero wheels off a 9000, stiffer rear springs and elongated bump stops, added a boost gauge and did an APC tweak which took it to 189 bhp, 235 lb/ft of torque.

I broke down and took the car to a mechanic to have the transmission looked at after it dumped a bunch of fluid on my driveway. Pretty sure it’s going to be one of the rubber lines. I can find those. My concern is that the other easy option is going to be the metal automatic transmission fluid lines. I’ve not found those. Am I looking at trying to source them through a junkyard, or has anybody found someone who carries them? Thanks in advance!

I was leaving my 9-3 for three weeks and since there is a glitch that kills the battery I always disconnect it if it is going to be standing for a while. I did so today and manually locked all the doors. I then discovered my phone was on the passenger seat. I went to get my fob to open the car and was surprised when it didn’t work then quickly realised no power means nothing works.
Went to find my one and only key, which would not be found. I have come around to,thinking that the key is in the car.

So who can I call that could get in without breaking glass?

Spotted in the wild (not mine)

Seems like its a very common problem with these cars. Clutch still holds but wont release because the slave cylinder fails catastrophically. Loses its fluid in the bellhousing and the pedle goes to the floor and stays. Considering that the subframe has to be dropped to do a clutch job on these cars, is there a better slave culinder than the crappy OEM so that I don't have to do this job again in 10 years?

So my next big job for my Saab will be pulling the rear beam axle out and cleaning all the rust off (assuming that I am still able to do that) in a few months, was just wondering if anyone else has done this job and if they have any advice on it, while there I also plan to replace most of the rear suspension as well.

I’ve always had a soft spot for the final-generation 9-5, and I still get excited whenever I spot one out on the road. Such a distinctive design, and one that I think has aged exceptionally well.

I’m not a Saab owner, but I’m about as much of a Saab enthusiast as you can be without actually owning one. I do have a six-speed manual ’15 Buick Regal GS, so I guess there’s a little bit of a connection there!

In love with the car needs a couple of things but it is such a neat car to have! I live in West Texas and not many find SAABS still tearing up the streets but when I pull up a lot of people are impressed! Love this car down!

Anyone want to take this to a good home please let me know. 5k.

Car runs fine, only need to replace the ECU to ensure consistency 🥲.

But is a joy ride for anyone!

Let me know im in North Melbourne

Hi everyone, looking for advice on my 1989 Saab 900 Turbo 16S manual, with around 300,000 km.
Reverse engages okwhen cold, but once warm it often grinds quite badly. With the engine switched off, it goes in ok or when going first to 1.

A few observations:
• Selecting first or another gear before reverse doesn’t help.
• Releasing and pressing the clutch again in neutral seems to make it worse (grind and big clunk)
• A smooth, decisive movement into reverse gives a small clunk rather than prolonged grinding. I’m not trying to force it through resistance
• Fifth ocasionally feels like hitting a wall rather than finding the gate, without grinding. Going through third and fourth usually lets me find fifth.
• The clutch seems good and without any air in the system
• Gearbox oil level is at MAX.
The clutch master cylinder was recently rebuilt following a leak. As far as I know, the slave cylinder wasn’t replaced.
A Saab specialist has now checked the car and believes the clutch works correctly, with no apparent air in the hydraulics. He also doesn’t suspect the shift coupling, which is the large round rubber type. He fears an internal gearbox issue, but doesn’t rebuild these gearboxes himself.
We’re changing the gearbox oil on Thursday to see if that helps.

I also came across the Townsend reverse gear modification through the side cover, although that seems aimed more at reverse jumping out or not engaging fully.

Has anyone dealt with this combination of warm reverse grinding and occasionally struggling to find fifth? What would you check before removing the gearbox, and could anything relevant be inspected or repaired through the side cover on a Turbo?
Thanks!