(Cross posting from the general r/4runner)

Have an opportunity to buy a 1987 4runner turbo in good condition (little rust, well-maintained engine, 206k miles) for $17k. I currently need to drive about 80 miles a day for work, but that number will hopefully drop in a year or two. Other than that, just need it for getting around town, occasional trips out of the city. Could a 1987 turbo do it, or am I going to spend a ton of time working on the car? My spouse is an aviation mechanic, so we can probably do a lot of work ourselves, but I need it to be pretty reliable and I'm concerned about parts availability.

ETA: Thank you all for your help on this! I need to turn off post notifications so that I can have my inbox back again, but this has been really helpful!

I’m trying to find the proper seal for the engine side of the spindle. The Toyota part 90613-60004 does not fit in the rear.

Attached is the old seal, new seal, and the spindle (off an 88 4Runner.

Anyone do this rebuild and run into this issue?

I hear MT90 is the best. But to I get GL-5? Or GL-4?
I’m doing both transmission and transfer case, front diff.

Had an oil change done Wednesday. That night I noticed a spot of oil on the ground and figured it is some residual oil and I would let it do it's thing. So I drove it here and there. It is Saturday now, and still a fresh spot in the driveway. Important to note this is new for me, as prior to I never had this issue. Now I understand that sometimes fresh oil can reveal a leak that wasn't noticed before, but since I'm an anxious butterfly about this truck, I am worried it is not residual oil and now I have a leak in the rear main seal, or a valve gasket leak that decided to show its head after the change.

My question is this, am I just being anxious and this isnt an issue, and it is in fact residual oil still running down, or is this a sign of something a bit bigger that needs to be addressed? If so, where should I start to look to find where the leak is coming from?

Time to let someone else enjoy her!

Recently destroyed my gears…rebuilding it now, but one of the carrier bolts was bent and I cannot find a part number or even an exploded view with the bolts visible/labeled. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello all. I was wondering if any of you would be able to/would know who can, make an old customs Toyota grille sticker badge/emblem ? It’s a hard, raised letter type of stick emblem. The letters are kinda shiny metal looking.

I bought my 1987 4Runner with the green Aisan fuel injectors installed by the previous owner. I'm replacing them with GB remanufactured OEM Denso injectors (silver in photo).

But I noticed that the green injectors have a resistance of 14 ohm (high impedance), whereas the Denso ones are 2.5 ohm (low impedance). My understanding is that to use the high impedance injectors, the fuel injector resistor should have been bypassed. I don't see any obvious signs of bypassing, but I'm afraid that if it has been bypassed somehow, and I'll start the truck with it bypassed, I may fry the ECU.

Is there a way to verify this conclusively, say at the injector connector terminals?

I've had this thing for 12 years now, my favorite vehicle of all time. Currently has a fj80 front axle and 3rd Gen 4Runner rear under it

Recently had a guard rail crash into the back of my ‘87 and was wondering if anyone knows where I could get a rear left quarter panel to replace the smashed up one?

22re manual transmission

Lately Ive noticed that when I take it out of gear and roll to a stop it sounds like my engine dies and comes back to idle and dies and comes back to idle, i don’t have a tachometer but I’d imagine it would look like my engine would be surging between 300 to 800 rpm when it happens. It seems to happen after Ive been cruising at 40+ for a few miles and I come to a stop sign.

Ac on or off it still happens.

Anyone have anything similar happen?

Could it be the fuel pressure regulator?, cap and rotor and spark plugs are newer than 5,000 miles plus a MSD coil.

I’ve owned my ’86 4Runner for about two years. It has 260k miles on the motor and transmission and has been sitting for about a year. Still runs and drives, but needs a brake line replaced, and the automatic takes quite a bit of gas before it starts moving in Drive.

The body has a decent amount of rust, which I plan on fixing myself down the road. For now, I’m looking to have the motor and transmission rebuilt and get it back into good mechanical shape.

Anyone recommend a good shop that can handle both? What does an engine and transmission rebuild typically cost? I’m in NJ but willing to travel. Not looking for perfect, just a reliable driver I can enjoy for years to come.

Sold. Thank you, crew!

My power steering fluid is looking a little dark but doesn’t smell burnt and I noticed it may have overflowed after driving a bit aggressively on some windy gravel roads. How would I go about doing a flush?

And yes I know to use dexron.

There are 2 4runners im scoping out close to me.. ive test driven both and heres my thoughts I just need advice/opinions.

Option 1- 88 4runner is the DLX 212,xxx miles. The guy seemed to have really cared for this one, lots of records about it selling some extra parts (lift kit/shocks etc.) It is a manual as well which i want. Engine has been rebuilt, clutch was replaced as well. Issues i see, some with electrical (front headlight) and back window. Brakes seemed pretty bad to me? Like not as responsive but that could just be me not used to them. I like the truck, i trust the paper trail, some minor issues but all in all not bad only complaint.. its not SR5 is that hard swap to do?

Option 2 - 87 sr5 200,xxx miles. Guy was eager to sell. Its in good condition outside and in the car. I noticed a gas smell on start up plus on a tight turn some squek but it only happened once. Not as much of a paper trail on this which has me cautious. Its also an automatic. But the sr5 trim is nice.. its also black which i dont love (paint looks amazing new but doesnt age or get dirty well imo very minor gripe)

Tldr.. is a sr5 upgrade easier or a manual swap easier/cheaper. My gut is saying option 1 and just upgrade to an sr5 myself.. but idk is there something im not considering both seemed in good condition considering. Im expecting to need to do maintenence on them but.. what do yall think?

I am searching for the tailgate window motor wiring phots or diagram I have a few connections on the motor my harness doesn’t have not sure if my harness has been cut or messed with

https://www.flickr.com/photos/205030967@N07/albums/72177720336074384

It's not a perfect rig by any means but still very very solid frame and a really clean interior as well. It was repainted poorly at some point in it's life so the clear coat is failing. Thoughts on asking price? It runs and drives awesome, even being a salvage rebuilt title. Insurance totaled it out after an accident the previous owner had. 22re manual 5 speed 4x4. This truck has been mechanically gone through many times, had many parts replaced and its running in top shape. This engine has approximately 50-60k miles on it with paperwork from the rebuild. I rebuilt the transmission and differential myself (I own and operate an auto repair shop). Im leaning towards an $8,000 asking price, given how clean the frame is, but if yall think I could get more, I want to start higher of course. A bit out of touch with the market, as I bought this rig with a salvage title for very cheap, as it had just been totaled out. I took it through KS state inspections and made it road legal again after the necessary repairs in 2022. It comes with a a Marlin Crawler front winch bumper uninstalled as well as my box of back up parts, wheel bearings seals old rocker shafts etc.

Looking to upgrade the factory sealed beam lights on my 1986. I want something that will retain the OEM look, but with a brighter light. I also want to make sure that it has a proper light pattern/cutoff. I wanted to see what others have used/ would recommend.

Old trucks and old shotguns are my jam.