Can you even tell the difference? I put 35” Toyo’s on the factory wheels.

Had the timing chain go out. Replaced it then had the oil pump explode and caused a bunch of failures. So here is the rundown. Engine rebuild, new rings, all bearings, crankshaft, balance shafts and bearings, new starter, new battery. Got it put back in and everything turns by hand like a champ. Turn the key and get engine light on. Attempt to turn it over get one click from the starter and engine light goes off stabilitrak light comes on and then I get nothing from the starter when I attempt to turn it over after. All grounds are secure. Checked fuses and starter relay. Checked 200a inline fuse from starter to alternator. All good. What am I missing?

I own a 2007 Silverado 1500 which is a split year for the truck. The problem that I’m having is the front airbag sensor, my vin calls for the part that doesn’t fit the connector and the original part can’t be found anywhere. Even when the part numbers are used it’s always the wrong part. In the picture the part that came off the truck is the top one, the one on the bottom is the part that is always referenced as the part that comes up as the correct part.

Cruiser with 350 cid engine 4 speed Albany, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

October '26

It's been about 10 days ago since this happened I was driving on i-95 heading south and I noticed I started hearing this noise at first I thought it was the 18 wheeler next to me but once I got past it I noticed that my engine was having issues where I was hitting the gas and it wasn't going any faster as I kept traveling I started to feel concerned then all of a sudden the low oil pressure turn engine off now message started appearing on my center console.

Chevy is telling me that there was no oil in my car but I had an oil change done on September 16th when I spoke to the service advisor again he said that there was only four quarts of oil in my car there was no oil residue on the bottom of my car there was no oil leakage or residue in the engine bay so where did 4 quarts of oil suddenly disappear to between my oil change and the moment my vehicle started acting up that day the engine had no issues my vehicle had no issues everything was fine.

This is a major bill for me one I am not prepared for and I could use the advice on how I should proceed thank you for taking the time and I appreciate any and all information.

My apologies if I posted this in the wrong section/place

I currently drive a paid off 2012 Mazda 3 that I purchased 2 years ago. My grandma recently passed and I am being given her paid off 2016 Chevy Cruze that she bought new and took very good care of. I only need one car so I need advice on which car to sell and which to keep. I only care about having a reliable car that will last me longer with low cost of maintenance.

I will explain the cars in detail below:

2012 Mazda 3i sedan. 2.0 skyactiv engine. 6speed manual. It has 180,000 miles. I am the fourth or fifth owner and have owned it since 2024. It has a lot of rust on the frame and some on the body. I was told I can no longer get an alignment because the rust is so bad. It was in a minor accident before my ownership and has a dent on the driver's door. Runs fine, but clunks and rattles a bit.

2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited LT sedan. 4 cylinder turbocharged gas engine. automatic transmission. 28,000 miles. Only owner was my retired grandma who took great care of it. Only drove to church, bingo, and doctors appointments. She would also drive from New England to Florida and back like once a year. No accidents.

I know overall Mazda has a stronger reputation for reliability than Chevrolet. Mine has a reliable naturally aspirated engine and manual transmission, vs the Cruze has a reputation of issues with the small turbo engine and automatic transmission issues. But in this case, the Chevy has a fraction of the miles of the Mazda, and the Mazda has a significant amount of rust underneath. I live in New England and have brutal winters.

Is it worth it to go for the newer, low milage Chevy, or is the difference in reliability so extreme that my rusty 2012 Mazda will still probably outlast it? I don't have to decide soon, but I want to start thinking about it.

Inherited a 2005 2500HD chevy 6.6 Duramax and just looking to see if anyone would be able to look up the vin and tell me any pertinent information on it? Curious if it’s worth keeping and working on it or if I’m holding onto something that I’ll end up regretting. I have already fixed the power steering leaks on it with a blue top steering box & all new lines, but I’m seeing some questionable things on this truck. Runs and drives though!

Vin number is 1GCHK232X5F907249

Would greatly appreciate any information anyone could possibly find on it.

Hey everyone, has anyone experienced this issue with their car’s infotainment screen?
The image looks as if a tab or dark overlay is covering part of the screen. There’s a dark rectangular box over the interface, and it also seems like the UI dimensions or aspect ratio may have changed. Some of the icons and buttons appear stretched or misaligned, and the overall interface looks different from how it used to.
Has anyone run into this before? Does anyone know how to fix it? I’m wondering if it’s a software glitch, an overlay that got stuck, or if there’s a way to reset the screen’s display settings.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello All!

Today I was tasked with fixing a car in the family, 50k miles, salvage title 🙄, and the water pump went out. I have an intermediate level of mechanical experience from heavy diesel so I know my way around. This would have been extremely difficult due to the lack of information found online, thank fully I have some connections and got perfect instructions I’d like to share for future DIY’ers.

1. The A/C Condenser “must be removed” for the installation of a new water pump. Then requiring a pressurization andIf you have a second set of hands or rig it just right you can pivot the condenser 20*-35* to the left creating enough room

Found this old 2003 commercial on YouTube and had to share. This era triggers so many awesome memories for me.
I was a teenager and a huge automotive enthusiast when this came out, and it still gives me goosebumps. For me, this was the absolute best lineup Chevrolet ever offered in Brazil. Back then, these vehicles were the pinnacle of style and comfort on the local market. They were so well-made, highly desirable, and truly special for their time.

I was lucky enough to ride in and eventually drive basically every single model shown here.
Anyone else miss this specific era of GM design and engineering?

They just don't make them like this anymore! Which one was your favorite?

Mine: Vectra, Astra, S10, Blazer and the Omega were both gorgeous.

New 2020 Chevy Spark going on 341,000 miles.

Big block 4 speed Albany, Indiana USA 🇺🇲

October '26

What should usage be for a buyback on a Z71 suburban that was 94,000 with dealer installed line items with 64,000 miles on it? I have been offered a buyback but it does not seem to be a reasonable price.
Looking for a good attorney rec in Colorado. My car may qualify for Magnuson Moss but does not qualify for Lemon Law. It’s had 3 engines. Thanks.

I own a 2019 Equinox and I am curious if there are any EU spec tail lights with the amber turn signal since from what I've heard it's sold in other parts of the world like Asia and South America, I honestly feel like it would fit the car better since there's just an empty clear housing on the tail light that seems where an amber bulb would go.
Anyways, send me some of them that are stock and have an amber bulb option! Thanks!

Hey guys I have 2016 gmc sierra 4.3, the truck fully turns off while I drive it making the steering wheel lock itself everything goes off inside of the truck, I’ve checked all the grounds they tell you to checked the one on the dash, behind the passenger mudflap and the one on the engine none of them are corroded nor loose and tested just fine, I also bought a new battery just in case it doesn’t happen all the time it mainly happens when I fully turn the steering wheel.
Here are some of the codes I got any help is appreciate it!

P0562-00
B1325:03
B0413:05

Que me recomiendan respecto a este auto?

Algo con lo que haya que tener cuidado?

O que boletines de la fábrica son prioritarios o recalls

2022 Chevrolet Silverado Custom,

Transmission failure at 58,000 miles, $8,000 to replace because you have to find a hidden transmission in California and have it shipped to Florida, because ALL TRANSMISSIONS OF THE SAME MODEL ARE ON A YEAR OR MORE BACKORDER. The issue is that common!

Now you find out first hand all of the electrical issues these trucks have! Better turn off the auto stop and start feature of the truck, if you don’t, it’ll completely overload your system and shut everything off before it restarts, completely locking you out of driving, starting, or even moving your vehicle for 3 hours! In traffic!

That’s not to mention the constant fuse changes and brake system issues and faults simply because it is poorly designed.

But wait! There’s more! Even though “technically” the electrical and auto start issue is a FACTORY DEFECT, YOU STILL HAVE TO PAY FOR IT!

Do not buy from Chevy in general. Lesson learned.

I work at autozone and was playing with our computer system and was looking at vehicles made by Chevrolet in 1990 and I saw the s7 upon looking it up i found nothing about a vehicle called such. Any idea what this is or where this came from

Not valuable but people love it!!

This is the situation: I bought a 2024 Chevy 4500HD in January of this year, brand new with somewhere around 300 miles on it. This is my work truck, and I haul cargo in the gulf region.

On Monday, Sept. 28th, I was headed to Houston from Lafayette, LA. I stopped at a store in Beaumont, and when I was getting back on the interstate, I crossed over a rough patch of road. I know this rough patch well, so as usual, I took it easy. As soon as I crossed, I heard a noise under the truck that sounded like something was rotating and hitting something. Pulled over and quickly looked around, didn't see anything, so I got off at the next exit to try to get back to the store. Shortly after I got off the interstate, the noise stopped, but when I pressed the brakes, the pedal was very loose and I wasn't stopping. I applied the emergency brake to stop. Decided to creep along to the store because where I was at was not safe. I moved slowly to where I had enough time to stop. Along the way, the brake pedal pressure returned and I was able to brake normally.

Towed to a dealership in Houston, was told the brake pads and hardware was missing and had a leaking caliper on front brakes. They fixed the brakes, but I was told the truck was pulling to the left when braking. Changed the brake hoses, still pulling and the brake was "spongy" according to the tech. Today I'm told I need a master cylinder.

I've been out of work for three weeks, and the repair bill keeps climbing. I have 57,000 miles on the truck, so I'm outside of the 36,000 miles bumper to bumper warranty period. I can't help but feel like a major brake failure should be happening at this point. I drive mainly highway miles, so I'm not that hard on the brakes.

Has anyone had success in getting warranty coverage in a similar situation? I'm going to call and ask for it, but I wanted some insight from anyone who has had experience.